DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 137-29
DROPS design: Pattern no BS-018
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Approx. height mid back: 70 cm
Approx. width at top: 150 cm

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 8112, ice blue
100 g colour no 1760, light grey purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2, both patterns are also described below.
BOBBLE:
1 bobble = 3 tr worked tog. This is done as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 more tr, wait with last pull through, work 1 more tr but wait with last pull through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 4 loops on hook.
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SHAWL:
The piece is worked from the top and down to tip.

Also see diagram M.1.
Work 11 ch with ice blue on hook size 3.5 mm.
ROW 1:
Turn and work 1 tr in 7th ch from hook (= 1 tr + 3 ch), then work 1 tr in each of the last 4 ch, 3 ch and 1 more tr in last ch, turn piece.
ROW 2:
6 ch, 7 tr in first ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 7 tr in next ch-loop, 3 ch and 1 more tr in same ch-loop, turn piece.
ROW 3:
6 ch, 1 tr in first ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch, skip 2 tr and 2 ch, in next tr work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, 2 ch, skip 2 ch and 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, in last ch-loop work 1 tr +3 ch + 1 tr, turn piece.
ROW 4:
6 ch, 7 tr in first ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, in middle ch-loop work: [7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr, 2 ch and 7 tr], 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, 7 tr in last ch-loop, 3 ch and 1 more tr in last ch-loop, turn piece.
ROW 5:
6 ch, 1 tr in first ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch, * skip 2 tr + 2 ch, in next tr work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, 2 ch, skip 2 ch + 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until middle tr on piece, skip 2 tr + 2 ch, in the middle tr on piece work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 ch + 2 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch, ** skip 2 tr + 2 ch, in next tr work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 ch + 2 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch **, repeat from **-** until 1 ch-loop remains on row, in this work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, turn piece.
ROW 6:
6 ch, * 7 tr in first ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr *, repeat from *-* until middle ch-loop, in this work: [7 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr, 2 ch and 7 tr], ** 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch, skip 1 tr + 2 ch + 1 tr, 7 tr in next ch-loop **, repeat from **-** the rest of row, finish with 3 ch and 1 more tr in last ch-loop, turn piece.
Repeat 5th and 6th row until piece measures approx. 60 cm in the middle and 120 cm in breadth - finish after 5th row, cut the thread. Continue with LACE - see explanation below.

LACE – also see diagram M.2:
Switch to light grey purple. First work 1 row with dc as follows:
1 ch, 2 dc in each of the first 2 ch-loops, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr, * 2 dc in next loop, 3 dc in next loop, 2 dc in next loop, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr *, repeat from *-* until the middle 3 ch-loops, work 2 dc in first loop, 7 dc in second loop (= middle loop) and 2 dc in last loop, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr, repeat from *-* the rest of row, finish with 2 dc in each of the last 2 ch-loops. Turn piece.
ROW 1:
5 ch, in first dc work: 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr and 1 ch, * skip 4 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, skip 4 dc, in next dc work: [1 dtr, 1 ch] 5 times *, repeat from *-* until 5 dc remain at the tip of shawl (= in the middle), skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc, ** in next dc work: [1 dtr, 1 ch] 5 times, skip 4 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, skip 4 dc **, repeat from **-** until 5 dc remain, skip the first 4 dc, in last dc work: 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch and 1 dtr. Turn piece.
ROW 2:
1 ch, 1 dc in first dtr, * 2 ch, in next dc work: [1 triple tr, 2 ch] 4 times, skip 2 dtr, work 1 dc in next dtr *, repeat from *-* the rest of row but finish with 1 dc in 4th ch from beg of previous row. Turn piece.
ROW 3:
1 ch, 1 dc in first dc, * 4 ch, skip 1 ch-loop, in next ch-loop work 1 BOBBLE – see explanation above, 3 ch, 1 bobble in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 1 bobble in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. Turn piece.
ROW 4:
1 ch, 3 dc in first ch-loop, * 4 ch, 1 tr in the first of the 4 ch (= 1 picot), 3 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. Cut the thread.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.05.2014
under SHAWL and ROW 5:
6 ch, 1 tr in first ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch, * skip 2 tr + 2 ch, in next tr work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, 2 ch, skip 2 ch + 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until middle tr on piece, skip 2 tr + 2 ch, in the middle tr on piece work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 ch + 2 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch, ** skip 2 tr + 2 ch, in next tr work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, skip 2 ch + 2 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, 2 ch **, repeat from **-** until 1 ch-loop remains on row, in this work 1 tr + 3 ch + 1 tr, turn piece.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 dtr
symbols = 1 triple tr
symbols = 1 bobble: see explanation in pattern
symbols = 1 picot: 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch
symbols = beg here
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Shawl

Tina, Norway

Tranquility Trio

Mary, United States

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Comments / Questions (55)

country flag Gail Cameron wrote:

I'd like to know how much yarn is used for this pattern in yards or meters. I was unable to find the amount in the description. Thank you.

10.05.2023 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gail, this shawl is made from discontinued yarn DROPS BABYALPACA SILK. This yarn was 167 metres per 50 g. So you need 4x 167 = 668 m ice blue and 2x 167 = 334 m light grey purple; i.e. about 1002 m totally. Happy crocheting!

10.05.2023 - 15:11

country flag Ilaria Moschese wrote:

Scialle realizzato per mia suocera. Ho usato la stessa lana nello stesso colore del modello qui proposto. Le spiegazioni sono semplici e chiare da seguire per un risultato davvero delicato e avvolgente.

19.11.2022 - 15:19

country flag Regina Hapka wrote:

Ich glaube, ich habe mich etwas unglücklich ausgedrückt. Sie beschreiben in Teihe 5 folgendes: bei den 3 Stäbchen in der 1. Hälfte schreiben sie man soll die Stb. Um die vorherigen Stb.Reihe machen uns in der 2. Hälfte soll man die Stb. In die Stb. Der Vorreihe machen. Also was nun? Entweder Reliwfstäbchen oder normale Stäbchen?

17.05.2021 - 09:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hapka, hier häkeln Sie ganz normale Stäbchen, dh in das Stäbchen von den vorrigen Reihen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

17.05.2021 - 10:11

country flag Regina wrote:

Sie sehen mich etwas verwirrt. In der Anleitung ist im ersten Teil die 5. Reihe korrigiert worden. Meiner Meinung nach ist die Serie auch nicht richtig. Bei der ersten Hälfte soll man die 3 Stäbchen um die vorherigen Stäbchen machen. Im zweiten Tril soll man die Stäbchen in die vorherigen Stäbchen machen. Das kann doch nicht stimmen, oder?

16.05.2021 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Regina, ich sehe diese 5. Reihe richtig, dh genauso wie bei dem Diagram = die 3 Stäbchen werden über die 7 Stäbchen von den vorrigen Reihe gehäkelt: 2 Stb überspringen, 3 Stb häkeln, 2 Stb überspringen. Vor der Hälfte, die 2 letzten Stb + 2 Lm werden übersprungen. Kann es Ihnen helfen?

17.05.2021 - 09:35

country flag Maria Do Rosário wrote:

Adorei fazer este modelo, fiz uma pequena alteração no final para que conseguir terminar o trabalho sem adquirir mais um novelo. Vou publicar foto na vossa oaguina. 😘👍

04.09.2020 - 13:21

country flag Viviane wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le rg 4, il est indiqué 7 br dans l'arceau central,...puis à nouveau 7 br dans l'arceau central. Mais quand on regarde la vidéo du diagramme M1 il semble que les 7br sont crochetées dans une bride et non dans un arceau. Pouvez-vous me dire si il faut les faire dans l'arceau ou dans la bride? dans le diagramme ce n'est pas dessiné comme dans un arceau mais plutôt dans une bride. Merci beaucoup.

19.03.2019 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Viviane, les 7 brides au milieu du rang 4 (et du rang 6) se crochètent dans la bride du rang précédent, comme dans la vidéo. Bon crochet!

20.03.2019 - 08:48

country flag Ute Vogt wrote:

Auf Seite 2/5 Reihe 3 hat sich gleich zweimal ein Fehlerteufelchen eingeschlichen.

13.01.2019 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vogt, ein Fehler (Reihe 3, Dreiecktuch) sollte korrigiert werden. Viel Spaß beim häkeln

14.01.2019 - 12:07

country flag Eva wrote:

Den svenska rättelsen av varv fem är inte korrekt, det är samma som i beskrivningen. Den rätta versionen finns i originalmönstret (länk finns till vänster om mönstret). Bra om det blir korrekt även i den svenska versionen

09.10.2018 - 23:35

country flag Liliana Bisognin wrote:

Altro scialle fatto grazie

17.07.2016 - 18:38

country flag DUVAL wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis débutante en crochet et j'avoue avoir du mal à comprendre les diagrammes, je me rabats donc sur les explications (quand il y en a) pour me lancer. Pour ce modèle, on dit : monter une chainette de 11 mailles en l'air.. mais pourquoi le premier rang commence par "tourner" ? Merci

24.06.2016 - 07:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Duval, le châle se tricote en allers et retours (= en rangs), on va ainsi tourner à la fin de chaque rang pour travailler alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. La vidéo ci-dessous montre comment réaliser M.1, elle pourra sans doute vous aider. Bon crochet!

24.06.2016 - 08:52