DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 4.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 139-33
DROPS design: Pattern no W-432
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Colour no 30, denim blue:
200-200-250-250-300-300 g
Colour no 16, white:
200-200-250-250-300-300 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 14 sts x 25 rows with pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm (60 cm) - for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 4.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. NOTE: All edge sts are worked in garter st.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows both rows in the pattern seen from RS.
STRIPES:
Work * 10 rows white, 10 rows denim blue *. Repeat from *-*.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by getting the thread between 2 sts from previous row - K this st twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes. NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they can be worked in pattern in each side.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 70-76-82-94-102-110 sts with denim blue on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib (K 1/P 1) with 1 edge st in garter st - Read explanation above - in each side for 4 cm. NOTE: On last row from WS, dec 8-8-8-12-12-12 sts evenly = 62-68-74-82-90-98 sts. Then switch to needle size 5 mm and white - At the same time work diagram M.1 and STRIPES - Read explanation above - with 1 edge st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, insert a marker in each side of piece (armholes beg here). Continue to work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Now cast off the middle 18-20-20-22-22-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next row from neck = 20-22-25-28-32-35 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm. Now cast off the middle 12-14-14-16-14-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off for neck at the beg of every row from neck (= every other row) as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Then cast off 1 st at beg of every other row from neck (= every 4th row) a total of 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 20-22-25-28-32-35 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 38-40-42-46-48-50 sts with denim blue on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib K 1/P 1 with 1 edge st in each side for 4 cm. NOTE: On last row from WS, dec 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts evenly = 30-32-34-36-38-40 sts. Then switch to needle size 5 mm and white - At the same time work diagram M.1 and STRIPES. When piece measures 5 cm, inc 1 st - Read INCREASE TIP above - inside 1 edge st in each side. Repeat inc every 2½- 2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 10-10-10-12-12-12 times = 50-52-54-60-62-64 sts. Continue until piece measures 34-33-32-30-29-28 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width). Loosely cast off all sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams from RS with stitches. Sew in sleeves between markers in each side inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one.

NECK EDGE:
Work around the neck with denim blue on circular needle size 4.5 mm as follows: Beg mid back, knit up from RS approx. 90 to 110 sts inside 1 edge st around the neck. K next round - while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 90-94-98-104-108-112. Then work rib (K 1/P 1) until neck edge measures 2 cm, loosely cast off all sts with K over K and P over P.




Diagram

symbols = From RS: K 2 tog. From WS: P 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (139)

country flag Loredana wrote:

Ciao, mentre si lavorano le righe, mi consigliate di tagliare il filo o di portarlo dietro?Grazie

24.05.2022 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loredana, lavorando senza tirare troppo il filo lo può portare dietro. Buon lavoro!

29.05.2022 - 14:28

country flag Olivier wrote:

Bonjour. J'ai fait mon échantillon. En largeur 14 mailles équivales à 9 cm et non 10. Par contre en hauteur mes 25 mesurent 12 cmau lieu de 10 comme convenu. Que dois je faire svp merci. Pour info j'ai tricoté l'échantillon avec des aiguilles numéro 5.

25.02.2022 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Olivier, vous pouvez essayer de bloquer votre échantillon pour voir si vous compensez la largeur et la hauteur en bloquant votre échantillon; si tel est le cas, alors vous aurez juste, sinon, il vous faudra essayer avec des aiguilles plus grosses pour avoir la bonne largeur. Bon tricot!

28.02.2022 - 08:55

country flag Suzanne Ouellette wrote:

My stitches are nice but the work is not straight. Piece goes diagonal. Do I need to block this?

04.11.2021 - 12:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ouellette, make sure you are following the diagram as shown in this video - edges should be straight, just as shown in the video. Hope this will help, happy knitting!

04.11.2021 - 15:44

country flag Veronika wrote:

Hallo, ich habe leider kein Geschäft in meiner Nähe. Ich habe das Teil jetzt fertig und wenn ich es Flach auflege, da entspricht es so ziemlich den angebenen Massen. Da kann es passieren das chWolle nachbestellen muß.

17.03.2021 - 13:29

country flag Veronika wrote:

Guten noch einmal ich komme auf die Breite das stimmt, ich meine aber es wird länger, das verstehe ich nicht. Ich habe im Prinzip auch schon viel Wolle verbraucht.Jetz überlege ich ob ich es eventull mit einen Musterstreifen weniger versuchen sollte. Liebe Grüße Veronika

16.03.2021 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Veronika, meinen Sie, es sind weniger als 25 Reihen im Lochmuster für 10 cm ? Also ja, das kann sein, daß Sie dann etwas mehr Garne brauchen werden. Versuchen Sie vielleiecht die Umschläge etwas locker zu stricken? Wie gesagt, Ihr Laden kann sicher Ihnen damit helfen, wenn Sie ihn Ihr Strickstück zeigen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.03.2021 - 08:14

country flag Veronika wrote:

Hallo, ja ich habe alles so gemacht wie angegeben, vielleicht messe ich auch falsch. Da es so locker gestrickt wird zieht es sich ja auch .Ich werde das Teil fertig stricken und dann nochmals messen, dann werde ich sehen ob es passt. Danke ich werde mich nochmals melden.

15.03.2021 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Veronika, messen Sie genauso wie Sie Ihre Maschenprobe gemessen haben, so sollen Sie dieselben Maßen haben (mit 14 M im Lochmuster = 10 cm). Im Zweifesfall zeigen Sie Ihr Strickstück Ihrem Laden (auch ein Foto können Sie per E-Mail schicken), es wird für sie einfacher, Ihnen zu helfen, wenn sie Ihre Arbeit sehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.03.2021 - 08:24

country flag Veronika wrote:

Hallo, Hallo ich habe ein Problem, meine Maschenprobe hatte der Maschenprobe entsprochen. Jetzt wo ich das Rückenteil fast fertig habe kommt es mir zu groß vor, messe ich falsch, da das Muster ja nach gibt ? Ich habe die Originalwolle und die benutze die Nadelstärke 5. Ich habe schon je 2 knäule blau und fast 2 Knäule weiß verstrickt. Danke Ihnen für eine Antwort. Liebe Grüße Veronika

15.03.2021 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Veronika, hatten Sie die Maschenprobe auch mit Lochmuster gestrickt? Haben Sie nach dem Bündchen abgenommen? Und auch genauso locker/fest gestrickt wie bei der Maschenprobe? Vielleicht kann Ihnen dieses Video helfen?

15.03.2021 - 15:27

country flag Bernadette wrote:

Ik zou deze trui willen breien voor iemand die normaal gezien maat 34 of xsmall heeft. Hoe kan ik het patroon aanpassen?

20.05.2020 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bernadette,

Wat je zou kunnen doen is een proeflapje maken met een kleinere naald, zodat het werk kleiner wordt. Op basis daarvan kun je een trui in een kleinere maat maken. Om de juiste maat te krijgen is het misschien een idee om een bestaande trui erbij te pakken en de maten te vergelijken.

22.05.2020 - 10:25

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno, le misure del lavoro secondo voi devono essere prese mettendo il lavoro in piano oppure in verticale? Grazie

10.04.2020 - 10:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Paris è un filato pesante. Le consigliamo di misurare il lavoro appeso. Buon lavoro!

14.04.2020 - 09:57

country flag Marie Mosca wrote:

How do I knit the neck bind-off off stitches to shape neckline without ruining the lace pattern? Really having a problem with this?

21.03.2019 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marie Mosca, continue working in lace pattern over as many sts as possible, and work in stocking stitch the stitches you cannot work in lace pattern. Happy knititng!

22.03.2019 - 08:45