DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 2.20 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Kitchen Wiz

Set consists of: Crochet DROPS pot holder with flower in “Paris” and Pot holder with rainbow stripes in “Paris”.

DROPS 139-35
DROPS design: Pattern no W-443
Yarn group C
--------------------------------------------------------
POT HOLDER WITH FLOWER:
Measurements: approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8 3/4" x 8 3/4"
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 11, opal green
50 g color no 39, pistachio green
50 g color no 14, strong yellow
50 g color no 33, medium pink
50 g color no 06, shocking pink

POT HOLDER WITH STRIPES:
Measurements: approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8 3/4" x 8 3/4"
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
50 g color no 45, dusty orange
50 g color no 14, strong yellow
50 g color no 39, pistachio green
50 g color no 02, light turquoise
50 g color no 30, denim blue
50 g color no 05, light purple
50 g color no 33, medium pink
50 g color no 06, shocking pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc x 8 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Each square should measure approx. 22 x 22 cm / 8 3/4" x 8 3/4" .

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 2.20 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Fasten the yarn ends after every color change. Let the yarn end from previous round be worked into the piece a bit before cutting it off and fastening it (work with the new color around the previous color).
--------------------------------------------------------

POT HOLDER WITH FLOWER:
Pot holder consists of 2 different squares which are placed double and worked tog.

FLOWER SQUARE:
Ch 4 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with strong yellow and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 1, 8 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc. READ CROCHET TIP!
ROUND 2: Switch to medium pink. Ch 6 (= 1 dc + ch 3), * 1 dc in next sc, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 dc with ch 3 between each.
ROUND 3: ch 1, then work as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves.
ROUND 4: Switch to shocking pink. Ch 7, * 1 sc between the next 2 leaves, ch 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-spaces.
ROUND 5: ch 1, then work as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves.
ROUND 6: Ch 10 , * 1 sc between the next 2 leaves, ch 9 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7: ch 1, then work as follows in every ch-space: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 5 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc and 1 sc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the yarn and pull it through st on hook.
ROUND 8: Switch to pistachio green and start with 1 sc in first tr on first leaf, ch 3, * ch 8 (= corner), skip 3 tr, 1 dc in last tr on same leaf, ch 5, 1 sc in first tr on next leaf, ch 5, skip 3 tr, 1 sc in last tr on same leaf, ch 5, 1 dc in first tr on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in 1st tr on next leaf).
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in 8-ch-space, * 4 dc + ch 4 + 4 dc in ch-space in the corner, (ch 4, 1 dc in next ch-space), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, ch 4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 10: Switch to opal green. * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, in ch-space in the corner work 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 4 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in the same ch-space but wait with last pull through, make 1 dc in next ch-space but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through both sts. 3 dc in same ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. There are now 29 dc along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the yarn.

SQUARE 2:
UNI-COLORED SQUARE:
Ch 4 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with opal green and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Continue to work as follows:

ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in ch-ring, ch 3, * 3 dc in ch-ring, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 3 in 1st dc, 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space, * in ch-space work 3 dc, ch 2 and 3 dc, work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 4 ch-spaces and 9 dc between each.
ROUND 3: ch 3 in 1st dc, 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space, * in ch-space work 1 dc, ch 2 and 1 dc, work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, work 1 dc in every dc and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 4 ch-spaces and 11 dc between each.
ROUND 4: As 3RD ROUND = 4 ch-spaces and 13 dc between each.
ROUND 5: ch 3 in 1st dc, 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space, * in ch-space work 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc, work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, work 1 dc in every dc and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. = 4 ch-spaces and 17 dc between each.
ROUND 6-7: Repeat 5TH ROUND. On every round the sides of the square inc with 4 dc between every ch-space = 4 ch-spaces and 25 dc between each.
ROUND 8: ch 3 in 1st dc, 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space, * in ch-space work 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc, work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *, repeat from *-*, work 1 dc in every dc and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 4 ch-spaces and 29 dc between each. NOTE! On one of the squares, one of the ch-spaces are replaced with a loop in one of the corners. Work this as follows: 2 dc, ch 12, 2 dc. Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE:
Place the squares on top of each other so that the flower has the nicest side up. Work around both squares with strong yellow on hook size 5 mm / H/8. In all dc work as follows: Insert the hook through both loops on both sts in both squares, make 1 sc in every dc around the square, in each corner work in both ch-spaces: 2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc. In the corner where the loop is made, work 1 sc around both ch-spaces, then work 16 sc only in the loop (= the 12 ch from previous round), 1 sc around both ch-spaces. Continue with sc around the square as before and finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
--------------------------------------------------------

POT HOLDER WITH STRIPES:

STRIPES:
Work 1 round in each of the following colors:
Beg + 1 round: shocking pink
Round 2: medium pink
Round 3: light purple
Round 4: denim blue
Round 5: light turquoise
Round 6: pistachio green
Round 7: strong yellow
Round 8: dusty orange

--------------------------------------------------------

Work the square in the round and switch color on every round. To make the color transition pretty, beg every new round in a corner, make sure to always work from the same side of square. The pot holder consist of 2 equal parts that are worked tog at the end.

SQUARE WITH STRIPES:
Ch 4 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with shocking pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Continue to work as follows:

ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 4 dc in ch-ring, ch 3, * 5 dc in ch-ring, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. READ STRIPES AND CROCHET TIP ABOVE.
ROUND 2: Switch color and beg in a corner. Work * ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 ch and 1 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *. Repeat from *-* the entire round. Finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 4 ch-spaces with 7 dc between each.
ROUND 3: As 2ND ROUND = 4 ch-spaces and 9 dc between each.
ROUND 4: Switch color and beg in a corner. Work * ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *. Repeat from *-* the entire round. Finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round = 4 ch-spaces with 13 dc between each.
ROUND 5-7: Repeat 4TH ROUND. On every round the sides of the square inc with 4 dc between every ch-space = 4 ch-spaces and 25 dc between each.
ROUND 8: Switch color and beg in a corner. * ch 3 (= (= 1 dc), 1 dc, 2 ch and 2 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc until next ch-space *. Repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first st on round. NOTE! On one of the squares, one of the ch-spaces are replaced with a loop in one of the corners. Work this as follows: 2 dc, ch 12, 2 dc. Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE:
Place the pot holders double. Work in all dc around the entire pot holder with shocking pink on hook size 5 mm / H/8 as follows: Insert the hook through both loops on both sts in both squares, make sc in every dc around the square, in every corner work: 2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc.
In the corner where the loop is made, work 1 sc around both ch-spaces, then work 16 sc only in the loop (= the 12 ch from previous round), 1 sc around both ch-spaces. Continue with sc around the square as before and finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 139-35

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Inger Johanne wrote:

Prøvde meg på den med striper, men er det no feil med 1omgang? Jeg får problemer når jeg skal begynne på 2omgang med første luftbue.

05.04.2020 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger, Her ser du hvordan man hækler en rude med staver

How to crochet an easy square in trebles from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

21.04.2020 - 12:18

country flag Sabrins wrote:

Ich verstehe die 6-7 Runde von dem Blumen Topflappen nicht, es heißt ich muss wie runde 5 häkeln nur mit je 4 Stäbchen mehr im Luftmaschenbogen. Ergibt 25 Stäbchen und 4 luftmascchenbogen. Aber doch nur bei einer Runde oder liege ich da jetzt falsch? 17 stäbchen + 4 Stäbchen recht + 4 Stäbchen links macht 25 Stäbchen im Runde 6. noch eine Runde ergibt bei mir 33 Stäbchen??? Oder liege ich jetzt falsch?

17.03.2015 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Die zusätzlichen Stb ergeben sich automatisch, da das, was Sie in die Lm-Bögen in den Ecken häkeln, die 4 Zunahmen sind. Sie müssen nicht noch zusätzlich weitere Stb häkeln. Sie häkeln die 6. und 7. Rd also einfach so: um jeden Lm 2 Stb + 2 Lm + 2 Stb und dazwischen in jedes Stb 1 Stb.

19.03.2015 - 10:53

country flag Gerda wrote:

Hallo, Als ik de hoeveelheden garen koop die in de beschrijving staat vd pannenlap met strepen. Kan ik er dan 1 maken of 2 stuks? Vriendelijke groeten, Gerda

06.06.2014 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Gerda. Je kan een setje van maken - dus 2 stuks

10.06.2014 - 16:30

country flag Laura wrote:

In welcher Lm muss ich beim Streifen-Topflappen anfangen, wenn es heisst "in einer Ecke"? Beim Wiederholen von *-* in Rd.2, habe ich an der 2., 3. und 4. Ecke je 5 Lm, aber an der 1. Ecke nur 2 Lm. Ausserdem weiss ich nicht, in welche Lm der Ecke von Rd.1 ich fuer das Stb. einstechen muss, bevor es wieder mit den Stb. in die Stb. von Rd. 1 weitergeht. Werden grundsaetzlich bei den folgenden Runden an den Ecken Lm der Vorrunde uebersprungen?

06.08.2013 - 22:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Laura, Sie beginnen in einer der Ecken in einem 3-Lm-Bogen. Die 2. Rd müssen Sie sich nochmal gut durchlesen: Sie haben immer nur 2 Lm in den Ecken, die 3 ersten Lm ersetzen nur das 1. Stb. Und zu Ihrer weiteren Frage: die Stb in den Ecken werden in die Lm-Bogen gehäkelt.

07.08.2013 - 10:56

country flag Knöpfchen wrote:

OK, danke....dann sollte das aber in der Anleitung geändert werden, weil da steht "total 3 mal", das heißt bei mir soviel wie insgesamt. Vielleicht irre ich mich auch, aber bei mir kommt das so an. Danke und liebe Grüße

02.02.2013 - 01:07

country flag Knöpfchen wrote:

Hallo! Ich versuche grad den Streifen-Topflappen nachzuhäkeln. Aber irgendwie komme ich nicht ganz klar. In der ersten Runde muß ich 3 mal die Folge stricken, in der zweiten Rd. soll ich dann 4 Bögen mit je. 7 Stb. dazwischen haben, das kommt irgendwie nicht hin. Irgendwie hab ich nur 3 Seiten, anstatt 4. Könnten Sie bitte für mich nochmal nachlesen, ob da vielleicht ein Fehler in der Anleitung ist. Ich sitze da jetzt seit 2 Tagen dran. Aber es klappt einfach nicht. Danke und VG Knöpfchen

31.01.2013 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Knöpfchen, der erste Teil vor den * ist die erste Seite, dann wird von *-* 3 x gehäkelt, das sind die anderen 3 Seiten, also haben Sie insgesamt 4 Seiten. Gutes Gelingen!

01.02.2013 - 23:02

country flag Claudia Antonia Hofer wrote:

10. RUNDE:... jedoch mit dem letzten Durchziehen warten, ein weiteres Stb um den nächsten Lm-Bogen jedoch mit dem letzten Durchziehen warten,... DA MÜSSTE ES DOCH HEISSEN, DASS BEIDE STB ZUSAMMEN ABGEMASCHT WERDEN, oder?

21.01.2013 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hofer, ja da hat unsere Übersetzerin einen Teil vergessen. Danke für den Hinweis, ich habe nun ergänzt.

22.01.2013 - 09:01

country flag DROPS Design Deutschland wrote:

Hallo Miriam, beim Nachhäkeln habe ich noch einen Fehler in der 4. Runde gefunden - ist jetzt korrigiert.

02.10.2012 - 14:16

country flag Miriam Rabanus wrote:

Guten Tag, ich verstehe beim Topflappen mit Streifen die 2. Runde nicht: lt. Anleitung müsste ich 5 Lm hintereinander + 1 Stb häkeln. Aber wo soll ich reinstechen? Ich hätte dann ein ziemlich großes Eckloch und die Stb.zahl erhöht sich nicht pro Runde. Herzlichen Dank

28.09.2012 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Miriam. Sie beginnen wie beschrieben in der Ecke. Es gibt kein grosses Loch (nur die 2 Lm), denn die ersten 3 Lm werden beim Beenden der Rd. mit 1 Kettm in die 3. Lm quasi zum ersten Stb. Es entsteht auch in dieser Rd eine Zunahme: in der vorherigen Rd waren 5 Stb, und in dieser R sind 7 Stb. Wichtig ist, dass Sie die Runde IN der Ecke beginnen, nicht danach.

01.10.2012 - 15:35

country flag Mariska wrote:

Waar kan ik een schematekening vinden van de pannenlap? ik ben een beginner en kom er niet helemaal uit, met name de hoeken.

14.07.2012 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Wij hebben geen schematekening voor dit patroon. De werkwijze is beschreven per toer. U moet de geschreven beschrijving volgen of u kunt hulp vragen in een brei/haakgroep of bij uw verkooppunt.

16.07.2012 - 10:44