DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.55 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 136-25
DROPS design: Pattern no E-182
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
Colour no 06, denim blue: 400-450-500-550-600-650 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 19 sts x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm (1 repetition of diagram M.1 = width approx. 5 cm and 6 cm vertically).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.55 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

TR ROWS:
Beg every tr row with 3 ch (not counted as 1st tr), work 1 tr in 1st st, then 1 tr in every st, turn.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. 1 repetition of diagram M.1 = 10 tr in width and 7 rows vertically.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st in each side of piece by working 2 tr in 1st and last st on row.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Loosely work 102-102-122-122-142-142 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran. Work 1st row (= RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then 1 tr in every ch, turn = 99-99-119-119-139-139 tr (= 9-9-11-11-13-13 repetitions of diagram M.1 + 9 sts). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Then work 3-3-4-4-5-5 TR ROWS - Read explanation above = 4-4-5-5-6-6 tr rows vertically. Continue to work diagram M.1 as follows:
ROW 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st tr, * 3 ch, skip the next 3 tr, in next tr work as follows: 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr, then 3 ch, skip the next 3 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr (= 3 dc) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch, skip the next 3 tr and work 1 dc in last tr, turn.
ROW 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip next ch-loop, 7 tr in next ch-loop (between 2 tr), 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle dc from 1ST ROW *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch and 1 dc in last dc, turn.
ROW 3: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, 4 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next 7 tr (= 7 dc), 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, finish with 4 ch and 1 dc in last dc, turn.
ROW 4: 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch-loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle of the 3 dc from 3RD ROW (= 3 dc), 3 ch, [1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr] in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch and 1 tr in last ch-loop, turn.
ROW 5: 3 ch, 3 tr in 1st ch-loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle dc from 4TH ROW, 3 ch, skip next ch-loop, 7 tr in next ch-loop (between 2 tr) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch, 2 tr in last ch-loop and 1 tr in 3rd ch from 4TH ROW, turn.
ROW 6: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr (= 3 dc), * 5 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 7 tr (= 7 dc) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 1 dc in each of the last 3 tr (= 3 dc), turn.
ROW 7: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of the middle 3 dc from 6TH ROW (= 3 dc) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 4 ch and 1 dc in last dc, turn.
Then work 1 dc row as follows: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 4 dc in next ch-loop, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time, work 1 dc in last dc = 99-99-119-119-139-139 dc. Work another 4-4-5-5-6-6 tr rows, then diagram M.1 1 time vertically, and then 1 dc row the same way - while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at the end of row - Read DECREASE TIP above = 98-98-118-118-138-138 sts. Piece now measures approx. 20-20-22-22-24-24 cm.
Then work 2-3-2-3-2-3 tr rows (piece measures approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm). On next row dec 4 sts evenly on row = 94-94-114-114-134-134 tr. Continue with tr rows until piece measures 27-28-29-31-32-33 cm. On next row, inc 1 st in each side of piece - Read INCREASE TIP above. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm. When piece measures 40-41-42-44-45-46 cm, inc 1 st at end of row = 99-99-119-119-139-139 tr.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work from RS as follows: Diagram M.1 1 time and 1 dc row as before. NOTE: Insert a marker in each side of piece on 1st row in diagram M.1 (armhole beg here). Continue with tr rows until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.
Then work 1 tr row over the outermost 35-34-43-42-51-50 sts in each side (i.e. do not work over the middle 29-31-33-35-37-39 sts (= neck), then dec 1 st on next row towards the neck = 34-33-42-41-50-49 sts remain on shoulder. Cut and fasten the thread, piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece until piece measures 42-44-45-47-48-50 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
On next row from RS work vent as follows: Work 49-49-59-59-69-69 tr (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 repetitions of diagram + 9 sts), turn. Continue with tr rows. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work diagram M.1 (beg from RS) 1 time vertically. NOTE: Insert a marker in the left side of piece (seen from RS) on 1st row in diagram M.1 (armhole beg here). Then work 1 dc row as before = 49-49-59-59-69-69 dc. On next row from RS work neck as follows: Work until 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts remain on row, turn. Then dec on every row towards the neck as follows: Dec 2 sts 2 times - Read DECREASE TIP above, 1 st 3-4-4-5-5-6 times = 34-33-42-41-50-49 sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, cut and fasten the thread.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 50-50-60-60-70-70 tr. On next row dec 1 st at beg of row = 49-49-59-59-69-69 tr. Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth. Work 42-42-42-52-52-52 ch on hook size 3.5 mm. Work 1st row (= RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then 1 tr in every ch, turn = 39-39-39-49-49-49 tr (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of diagram M.1 + 9 sts), turn. Then work 2 tr rows = 3 tr rows vertically. Then work diagram M.1 1 time and 1 dc row = 39-39-39-49-49-49 dc. On next row work tr - while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in each side of piece. Continue with tr rows and repeat inc every 4½-3½-2½-3½-2½-2½ cm a total of 9-11-13-10-12-13 times = 57-61-65-69-73-75 sts. Continue until piece measures 49-50-46-47-43-44 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves between markers in each side. Sew sleeve and side seams in one.

CROCHET EDGE - BODY:
Work along the bottom edge of tunic as follows:
ROUND 1: Beg in left side seam, work 1 ch, 1 dc in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 dc evenly on round = 200-200-240-240-280-280 dc (no of sts divisible by 8), finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 ch, skip the last 3 dc and work 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, in 1st ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, * in next ch-loop work as follows: 3 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch, 3 tr, in next ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc, cut and fasten the thread.

CROCHET EDGE - SLEEVE:
Work an edge around bottom edge of sleeve as follows:
Size S - L
ROUND 1: Beg in sleeve seam, work 1 ch, 1 dc in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st at end of round = 40-40-40 dc (no of sts divisible by 8), finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 ch, skip the last 3 dc and work 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, in 1st ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, * in next ch-loop work as follows: 3 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch, 3 tr, in next ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc, cut and fasten the thread.
Size XL - XXXL:
ROUND 1: Beg in sleeve seam, work 1 ch, 1 dc in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at end of round = 48-48-48 dc (no of sts divisible by 8), finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.
Work 2ND and 3RD round as size S - L.
Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

CROCHET EDGE - NECK:
Work an edge back and forth along the vent and neck edge as follows:
ROW 1: Beg at the bottom of vent mid front, work 1 ch, 21-21-21-17-17-17 dc along vent on right front piece (no of sts divisible by 4 + 1), then 83-83-91-91-99-99 dc along neck edge, finish with 21-21-21-17-17-17 dc along vent on left front piece = 125-125-133-125-133-133 dc in total, turn.
ROW 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, turn.
ROW 3: 1 ch, in 1st ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, * in next ch-loop work as follows: 3 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch, 3 tr, in next ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, cut and fasten the thread.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc
symbols = tr
symbols = 1st row starts here
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Arhi wrote:

Ich würde die Tunika gerne mit dem Garn "cotton light" häkeln. Wie müsste ich da umrechnen um zu wissen wieviel Garn ich zb für xl / xxl bräuchte?

04.09.2021 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Arhi, dieses Modell wird mit Safran, ein Garn der Garngruppe A, Cotton Light gehört zur Garngruppe B und wird hier keine Alternative sein. Hier finden Sie alle unsere Pullover, die mit einem Garn der Garngruppe B (wie Cotton Light) gehäkelt wurde, so können Sie ruhig unseren Garnumrechner benutzen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

06.09.2021 - 07:32

country flag Essi wrote:

Hei! Mulla meni L kokoiseen paitaan yli 500 g, vaikka ohjeessa sanottiin että 500 g riittäisi.

13.04.2021 - 14:56

country flag Disa Carlsson wrote:

Hej! Jag förstår inte den här biten gällande bakstycket: "Sedan virkas det 1 st-varv över de yttersta 35-34-43-42-51-50 m i varje sida (dvs det virkas inte över de mittersta 29-31-33-35-37-39 m (= hals), sedan maskas det av 1 m på nästa varv mot halsen = 34-33-42-41-50-49 m kvar på axeln. Klipp av tråden och fäst den, nu mäter arb ca 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm". Hur virkar jag på två sidor utan att virka i mitten? Och vad menar ni med "nästa varv mot halsen"?

03.11.2020 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Disa. Du får virka färdigt ena sidan först och sedan göra färdigt den andra. När vi skriver nästa varv mot halsen så menar vi bara att du maskar av mot den sidan som är in mot halsen. Mvh DROPS Design

05.11.2020 - 09:01

country flag Heidi Cecilie Brandshaug Løken wrote:

Går denne fint å hekle med Safran? Fsrgetips?

26.04.2020 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Denne er heklet i DROPS Safran nr 06, jeansblå. Mvh DROPS Design

27.04.2020 - 10:08

country flag Sylvaine wrote:

Je ne comprends pas pourquoi la photo présente un pull col en V et le dessin explicatif :un col rond fendu.

25.02.2020 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvaine, parce que lorsque l'on divise le devant pour l'encolure, on ne va pas de suite diminuer pour l'encolure, on crochète d'abord quelques rangs "droit" et alors seulement, on diminuera pour l'encolure. L'effet obtenu sera celui sur la photo. Bon crochet!

25.02.2020 - 15:33

country flag Elly wrote:

Na het lezen van de opmerkingen kom ik er toch niet helemaal uit. Ben nu bij de hals en als ik 9 st. overhou en daarna het werk keer en verder haak volgens patroon, hou ik een hoek over in de V hals. komt dat bij de afwerking van de hals goed? wil graag zoals op de foto een V hals maken in de trui. Hoor graag of dit klopt.

09.10.2017 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Elly, Voor de V-hals haak je tot de middelste steek van de vorige toer en dan keer je. Ik weet niet welke maat je haakt, maar bijvoorbeeld voor maat S heb je op dat moment 99 steken op de toer en je haakt 49 steken. Als je straks voor de andere helft ook 49 steken haakt kom je op 98 steken uit. Geen hoek dus, maar 1 steek midden waar niet in gehaakt wordt.

11.10.2017 - 22:03

country flag Godeau wrote:

Bonjour, je suis partie sur une taille M qui est trop large mais bien dans la longueur. est-il possible que je travail trop large (mon échantillon était pourtant bon) et dans ce cas est-il possible de travailler avec un crochet n°3? et pas assez de laine pourtant prévu pour une taille L. dans l'attente de votre réponse. Cordialement PS: merci pour vos super modèles

27.01.2016 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Godeau, pensez à bien crocheter avec la même tension que celle de votre échantillon, il est facile de relâcher sa tension en cours d'ouvrage - ajustez la taille de votre crochet si nécessaire pour bien avoir le même échantillon, et vérifiez bien votre taille à partir des mesures du schéma. Bon crochet!

27.01.2016 - 10:41

country flag Heather Keener wrote:

I'm working on the front-left neckline. My piece (is a Med.) DECREASE's: Do they occur on the RS only or is it every row? *dec 2 dc on WS, dec 2 dc on RS; at the neck. = 2 rows leaves me with 37 dc. *dec 1 dc on each of next 4 rows at the neckline. = 33 dc repeat 33 dc until piece measures 64 cm.

12.01.2016 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrss Keener, that's correct, you dec every row towards neckline, ie both from WS and from RS. Happy crocheting!

13.01.2016 - 10:08

country flag Caitlan wrote:

I'm a little confused by the size chart for this pattern. As it seems that the bust size is listed as the same for both large and xl. the 38" small medium would definitely be too small, but 47" seems huge for my 41 inch bust. I am about a size fourteen petite in regular clothing, what size would you recommend?

19.10.2014 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caitlan, this tunic is worked a bit loose, if you want something fitter, you will have to adjust to your size. Your DROPS Store may help you if required. Happy crocheting!

20.10.2014 - 10:31

country flag Thea wrote:

Ik snap de beschrijving van de hals niet helemaal. Na het telpatroon ( dus na de vaste toer) staat er: haak tot er 8 st over zijn op de toer, hoe bedoelen jullie dat?

25.05.2014 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Thea. Je hebt 49 v op de toer en haakt dan de volgende toer van de goede kant tot er nog 8 st over zijn (= dus je hebt 41 v gehaakt). Keer het werk.

27.05.2014 - 12:06