DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Vanilla Lace

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S – XXXL.

DROPS 139-6
DROPS design: Pattern no BS-017
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 1306, powder
150-150-200-200-250-250 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - for yoke.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

KNITTING TIP:
No of sts is adjusted with inc or dec as follows: Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog, or inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row/round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

YOKE:
Worked sideways back and forth on needle. Cast on 17 sts on needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work in garter st - Read explanation above - for approx. 1½ cm (1st row = RS). Work next row from RS as follows: Work diagram M.1 and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in the left side (seen from RS) until piece measures approx. 24-26-29-29-31-31 cm from cast on edge - NOTE: Finish with last row in diagram M.1 (= approx. 10-11-12-12-13-13 repetitions of diagram M.1 vertically). Then work in garter st over all sts for 1½ cm, cast off all sts (piece measures approx. 26-28-31-31-33-33 cm vertically).

Then work on circular needle size 3.5 mm top down from yoke. Knit up from RS approx. 70 to 90 sts along the left side on yoke inside 1 edge st in garter st. K next row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 68-72-78-78-84-84 - Read KNITTING TIP above. K 2 more rows (= 4 rows in garter st = 2 ridges in total). Work next row from RS as follows: 4 sts in garter st, inc 1 st - Read INCREASE TIP above, K until 4 sts remain on needle, inc 1 st, 4 sts in garter st. Then work in stocking st - AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st inside 4 sts in garter st in each side on every row (i.e. from RS and WS) a total of 6-7-9-14-17-22 times = 80-86-96-106-118-128 sts. Then P 0-1-1-0-1-0 rows from WS with 4 sts in garter st in each side, piece now measures approx. 10-10-11-12-13-15 cm. Slip sts on a stitch holder and put piece aside. Work 1 more yoke the same way and work up along the left side the same way but leave the sts on the needle (last row = WS).

BODY:
= 80-86-96-106-118-128 sts. On next round, work in the round as follows: K the 80-86-96-106-118-128 sts on needle, cast on 8-10-10-12-14-16 sts, K the 80-86-96-106-118-128 sts from stitch holder on to needle, and cast on 8-10-10-12-14-16 sts = 176-192-212-236-264-288 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the 8-10-10-12-14-16 new sts in each side (= 1 marker in the middle of each side). NOTE: Now round beg at the 2nd marker. Move the markers upwards when working.
On next round K until 2nd marker. Then work next round as follows: * (marker), P 8-9-9-10-11-12, K 72-78-88-98-110-120, P 8-9-9-10-11-12, (marker), P 8-9-9-10-11-12, K 72-78-88-98-110-120, P 8-9-9-10-11-12 *. Then K 1 round. Repeat from *-* 1 more time (= 2 rounds with 16-18-18-20-22-24 P sts under armhole in each side), then K all sts.
When piece measures 15-16-17-19-19-21 cm (measured from the upper edge on yoke), dec 1 st on each side of each marker - Read DECREASE TIP above = 4 dec sts. Repeat dec every 5½-5½-6-6-6½-6½ cm a total of 4 times = 160-176-196-220-248-272 sts.
When piece measures 37-39-41-42-44-46 cm, remove the marker in each side and insert 4 new markers in the piece as follows: Work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, 1 marker, work 40-48-50-62-68-80 sts, 1 marker, work 40-40-48-48-56-56 sts, 1 marker, work 40-48-50-62-68-80 sts, 1 marker, work the remaining 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts (= 2 marker at the front and 2 markers at the back). On next round, inc 1 st on each side of each marker - Read INCREASE TIP above = 8 new sts. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 41-43-45-46-48-50 cm = 176-192-212-236-264-288 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm. Then work rib (K 1/P 1) until piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm, then loosely cast off all sts with K over K and P over P.

SHOULDER STRAP:
Knit up 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts in the right corner along the upper edge on one yoke (= front). Work in garter st for 16-16-16-18-18-18 cm, cast off. Sew strap along the upper edge on the second yoke (= back). Repeat on the left side.

----------------------------------------------------------
BOLERO– see design: 139-5
----------------------------------------------------------

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.04.2012
New diagram M.1 has been posted

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Vanilla Lace

TheolinaK, Norway

Vanilla Lace

miwmiw, Denmark

Vanilla Lace

Aliki, Greece

Vanilla Lace

chessykat, United States

Vanilla Lace

yarnymama, Australia

Vanilla Lace

yarnymama, Australia

Vanilla Lace

Joe, France

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 139-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (84)

Patati0 wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai vu cette belle laine,y-a-t-il des modèles en aiguilles droites?.

11.05.2013 - 21:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patati0, ce modèle peut se tricoter en 2 pièces si vous le souhaitez, il suffit simplement d'ajouter des m lis. Demandez conseil à votre magasin DROPS, il saura vous aider. Bon tricot !

13.05.2013 - 09:24

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo, untenstehende Frage kann ignoriert werden. Manchmal sollte man halt einfach mal machen und nicht so viel drüber nachdenken :) Mit einer Runde rechts bis zur 2. Markierung kommt alles wunderbar hin :) Gruß, Sandra

19.04.2013 - 19:01

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo, eine Frage zur Anleitung: Ich habe jetzt folgende Maschen auf einer Nadel: Passe, neu aufgenommene, Passe, neu aufgenommene. In der Mitte jeder Passe habe ich nun einen Hilfsfaden eingezogen. Wie kann die Runde jetzt bei der 2. Markierung anfangen? Diese liegt jetzt ein paar Maschen zurück und die Maschen sind auch noch gar nicht zu einer Runde verbunden. Versteh ich irgendwie nicht... :-(

19.04.2013 - 17:27

country flag Heidi wrote:

Denne oppskriften er jeg heller ikke fornøyd med. Ryggen her blir alt for stor og den henger og slenger bak, den ser ikke ut. Jeg er VELDIG missfornøyd med denne modellen og er lei av å strikke noe og deretter måtte rekke det opp. På denne modellen hjalp ikke det heller, det MÅ være noe feil her ett sted! Lei av å bruke masse penger på dårlige oppskrifter :-(

24.02.2013 - 19:33

country flag PINARD DOLORES wrote:

J'ai tricoté l'empiècement qui est en attente mais je ne comprend pas ce que je dois en faire par rapport au dos et devant. j'ai besoin d'aide. MErci

07.07.2012 - 12:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dolorès. Quand vous avez tricoté la bande ajourée, vous relevez les mailles pour tricoter la partie du devant et tricotez jusqu'aux emmanchures environ. Vous tricotez ensuite une 2ème pièce identique pour le dos et vous réunissez ensuite les 2 pièces sur la même aiguille pour tricoter, en rond la suite du débardeur. Bon tricot !

09.07.2012 - 09:21

country flag Maia wrote:

Er det ikke noe feil i mønsterforklaringe når de tre maskene som er markert som en pyramide også skal være "1 kast mellom 2 m"?

11.06.2012 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei. Her har det blitt en feil på den norske web-siden. Feilen er nå rettet opp og det som står i 6. diagramforklaring er nå riktig.

13.06.2012 - 14:09

country flag Marianne Skov wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke helt mønstret. Bør prik ikke være vrang på retsiden. Der er ikke prikker hele vejen op, kan det være rigtigt? Jeg har strikket boleroen og der er prikkerne som beskrevet. Håber at høre fra jer.

25.04.2012 - 21:39

DROPS Design answered:

Du har helt ret, prikken skal være vrang fra retsiden, så de 3 masker bliver strikket i retstrik hele vejen. Symbolen er nu rettet.

26.04.2012 - 08:25

country flag Conny wrote:

Guten Tag Ich finde die Anleitung sehr kompliziert. Wie geht das? Man beginnt oben mit dem Rückenteil? Gibt es beim Rückenteil keine Passe mit Lochmuster? Danke für die Hilfe Conny

17.04.2012 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Zuerst strickt man das Lochmuster quer und nimmt dann für das Vorder- Rücketeil an der einen Kante Maschen auf.

18.04.2012 - 10:04

Lıllı wrote:

Jeg vil gerne vide hvor jeg fınder bolore opskrıften fra denne opskrıft, da det kun er toppe jeg kan skrive ud . m.v.h.Lilli

14.04.2012 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Den hedder DROPS 139-5. God fornøjelse!

16.04.2012 - 16:09

MaFrançoise wrote:

Top terminé identique au modèle! joli et facile, laine splendide; j'ai fait les bretelles en coton DMC8 crochet2= meilleure tenue!

02.04.2012 - 12:37