DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 138-11
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-600
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M/L - XL – XXL/XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200 g color no 0100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-100-100-100 g color no 01, off white

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

KNITTING TIP:
When turning mid piece, slip first st. Tighten yarn and continue as before. This is done to avoid holes when working short rows.

MEASURING TIP:
All length measurements are done along the shorter side.
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The jacket is worked in 3 parts: 1 back piece, 2 edge pieces which are worked from mid back and up to back of neck, these are sewn tog into a circle and then sewn to back piece - see figure X.1. Sleeves are knitted and sewn in at the end.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 62-68-74-80 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work in stockinette st with 4 sts in GARTER ST in each side - see explanation above. When piece measures 5 and 8 cm / 2" and 3'', inc 1 st in each side inside 4 sts in garter st = 66-72-78-84 sts. When piece measures 22-22-24-24 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9½"-9½", bind off the middle 24-26-28-32 sts for neck and finish each side separately.
Continue to bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 20-22-24-25 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 24-24-26-26 cm / 9½"-9½"-10 1/4"-10 1/4".

RIGHT EDGE PIECE:
Cast on 39-41-44-46 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work in garter st. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st on every 4th-4th-2nd-2nd row in the right side (seen from RS), repeat a total of 3-5-9-14 times = 42-46-53-60 sts.
When piece measures 17-19-21-22 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-8 3/4", work as follows, beg from RS - read KNITTING TIP: * 2 rows over the first 14-15-17-20 sts, 2 rows over the first 28-30-35-40 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 29-32-35-37 cm / 11 3/8"-12½"-13 3/4"-14½" – read MEASURING TIP.
Then work over all sts on every row.
At the same time in size M/L, XL and XXL/XXXL, dec 1 st on every 4th-4th-2nd row in the right side a total of 2-3-10 times = 42-44-50-50 sts (there are no dec in size S). When piece measures 45-48-51-54 cm / 17 3/4"-19"-20"-21 1/4", bind off the outermost 18-20-23-23 sts in the left side for shoulder = 24-24-27-27 sts remain for neck edge.
Now measure piece from here. Work as follows - beg from RS: * 2 rows over the first 12-12-13-13 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*.
Bind off when piece measures 8-9-9-10 cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-4" (measured from the shorter side).

LEFT EDGE PIECE:
Cast on and work as right edge piece but reversed.

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 55-55-60-60 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work 8 rows in garter st.
On next row switch to needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and 1 strand Kid-Silk, AT THE SAME TIME work 2 sts in every st = 110-110-120-120 sts. Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 12-12-13-13 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8", bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts a total of 3 times in each side = 92-92-102-102 sts. Bind off the remaining sts, piece now measures approx. 14-14-15-15 cm / 5½"-5½"-6"-6".

ASSEMBLY:
See figure X.1. Sew the edge pieces tog in bottom edge (E to E) and sew tog in the neck (D to D). Fasten the edge piece by sewing the shoulder seams (C to C) and edge piece to the bottom (F to F) and top edge of back piece (G to G).
Sew the under arm seams inside 1 edge st and sew in the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = back piece
symbols = edge piece
symbols = shoulder
symbols = neck edge mid back
symbols = mid back bottom edge
symbols = back
symbols = neck edge
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 138-11

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Comments / Questions (81)

country flag Josiane Cornut wrote:

Bonjour! Je fais ce modèle en taille M. Pour la bordure, j'ai 46 mailles, avant les raccourcis. Ils disent de tricoter 15 mailles, et par après, 30. Qu'est-ce que je fais avec la maille restante?!! Merci!

03.04.2023 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Josiane, comment faire les rangs raccourcis vous trouverez ICI. Bon tricot!

04.04.2023 - 07:46

country flag Isabelle Legallais wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais faire des manches longues à ce modèle. Pouvez-vous me donner quelques explications pour pouvoir les réaliser facilement : nombre de mailles à monter pour le poignet et augmentations ... Je le réalise en taille S Par avance merci

12.01.2020 - 17:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Legallais, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande. Pour toute assistance individuelle, merci de bien vouloir contacter - même par mail ou téléphone - le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Bon tricot!

13.01.2020 - 09:58

country flag Nico wrote:

Ik twijfel over de verkorte toeren. Als er staat 2 nld over de eerste 15 steken enz wordt er dan bedoeld 1 nld en 1 nld terug = 2 nld? Of wordt er bedoeld 1 nld heen, 1 nld terug en dat 2 keer?

22.02.2019 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nico,

Met 2 naalden wordt inderdaad een heengaande en een teruggaande naald bedoeld. (Als je dit 2 keer zou moeten doen had 4 naalden gestaan.)

26.02.2019 - 09:41

country flag Segers Annie wrote:

Bij linkerdeel liggen de steken van de verkorte toeren anders dan bij rechterdeel ??ben al in 2 breiwinkels gaan vragen, hoe je ook begint aan verkorte toeren, je breit zowieso hetzelfde als rechterdeel......dus de steken bij het draaien met verkorte toeren liggen fout! Groetjes

02.04.2015 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

We hebben geen idee wat u bedoelt met "de steken liggen fout". Het vestje wordt in ribbelsteek gebreid, dus de steken zijn recht aan elke kant. U breit het linkerpand in spiegelbeeld, dus u keert op dezelfde punten, maar omgekeerd.

02.04.2015 - 09:40

country flag Annie Segers wrote:

Rechterzijdeel is af.... Hoe doe je het spiegelbeeld verkorte toeren bij linkerdeel?

18.03.2015 - 09:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Annie. Je maakt dan de verkorte toeren aan de andere kant van het werk = langs de voorkant, dwz, je begint aan de verkeerde kant met de verkorte toeren

18.03.2015 - 15:27

country flag Gerrie Stark wrote:

Ik heb een vraagje, ik ben een vestje aan het breien, ( model: Z_600. Drops: 138_11 ) Ik ben nu met het Rechter Zijdeel bezig. Ik ben op een hoogte van 19 cm (maat M) . En nu wil ik verder maar ik begrijp niet wat er bedoeld wordt met het volgende : 2nld over de eerste 14_15_17_20 st. Wat wordt hiermee precies bedoeld ? Graag uw uitleg, ik ben namelijk een beginnende breister. :-) Vriendelijke groeten, Gerrie Stark.

28.01.2015 - 12:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Gerrie. Je breit verkorte toeren. Dwz, je breit 3 nld over de eerste 14-15-17 of 20 st (afhankelijk van je maat), dan over de eerste 28-30-35 of 40 st en vervolgens 2 nld over alle st. Op deze manier krijg je de ronding langs de voorkant. Zie ook deze video:

28.01.2015 - 16:15

country flag Josette wrote:

Graag wil ik weten wat ik moet doen met sterretje en 2 nld over de eerste 17 steken 2 nld over de eerste 35 steken 2 nld over alle st. Dit is van het rechter-zijdeel Harteljk dank Josette

29.03.2013 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Je breit verkorte toeren om de ronding van het rechter zijdeel te maken. Je herhaalt de werkwijze tussen de sterren: * 2 nld over de eerste 14-15-17-20 st, 2 nld over de eerste 28-30-35-40 st, 2 nld over alle st *, herhaal van *-* tot werk 29-32-35-37 cm. Zie hier hoe je verkorte toeren breit:

02.04.2013 - 22:15

country flag Anna wrote:

I think the measurement on the back is too long should itbe 13 3/4" is it on the shorter side not on the collar it seems to come out too long

07.03.2013 - 22:58

country flag Anna wrote:

Pattern #. Z-600. On right edge the pattern does not look like the picture no round stitches I would like to know how to working over the 2rows. I did first 17 sts the 2 rows 35 then 2 row all stitches it looks like straight across stitches nothing like the picture what am I doing wrong

04.03.2013 - 17:29

country flag Inger A. Gurdiel wrote:

Venligst forklar mig, hvordan man kan strikke venstre kantstykke spejlvendt, uden at resultatet ender op med, at det fremkomme hulmønster ved vendingerne så viser vrangsiden på det venstre stykke, mens det korrekt viser retsiden på det højre. Der er ret stor forskel på siderne. Har prøvet flere muligheder, men resultatet bliver hver gang forkert. Med venlig hilsen Inger A. Gurdiel

05.11.2012 - 00:08

DROPS Design answered:

Da du strikker kanterne i retstrik bliver de ens på begge sider. Så det er kun udtagningerne og vendingerne du skal flytte over i den anden side. God fornøjelse!

15.11.2012 - 11:43