DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Comfort

Knitted DROPS jumper with English rib in Vivaldi or Brushed Alpaca Silk with ¾ sleeves. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 138-7
DROPS design: Pattern no OO-085
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
Colour no 36, light beige:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g
Colour no 24, lavender:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g

Or use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACE SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 04, light beige:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g
Colour no 17, light lavender:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm (80 cm) – or size needed to get 12 sts in English rib = width 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm - for neck edge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

MEASURE: All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

BODY IN ENGLISH RIB (in the round on circular needle):
ROUND 1: * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 2: * P tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 3: * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd round upwards.

ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on needle, applies to front and back piece and sleeves):
Row 1 (= RS, only for sleeves): 1 edge st, * K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with 1 edge st.
Row 2: 1 edge st, * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with 1 edge st. Repeat 2nd row upwards on both RS and WS.


ENGLISH RIB ST:
When counting the sts, the YOs are not counted as sts.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted i.e. work in back loop of st instead front. NOTE: Work the inc sts in English rib.

STRIPES:
Work 6-6-6½-6½-7-7 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" vertically with each color. Work 9½ stripes on body and 7½-7½-6½-6½-5½-5½ stripes on sleeves. NOTE: Switch color at the beg of round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Vivaldi. Cast on 144-156-174-192-210-234 sts with light beige. Work 1st round as follows: * P 2 tog, K 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96-104-116-128-140-156 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= the side) and move the marker upwards. Then work BODY IN ENGLISH RIB and STRIPES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE TENSION/GAUGE!
Continue in the round in English rib and stripes until piece measures 42-41-45-44-48-47 cm / 16½"-16 1/8"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-18½", make sure to end after a 3rd round in English rib. Insert another marker after 48-52-58-64-70-78 sts. Now divide the piece at the markers and finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 48-52-58-64-70-78 sts. On next row (= RS) cast on 1 st in each side = 50-54-60-66-72-80 sts. Continue with row 2 in English rib back and forth - Read explanation above - and stripes as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures approx. 55-55-60-60-65-65 cm / 21½"-21½"-23½"-23½"-25½"-25½", cast/bind off the middle 14-14-16-18-20-20 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast/bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 16-18-20-22-24-28 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely cast/bind off all sts with K over K and P over P when piece measures 57-57-62-62-67-67 cm / 22½"-22½"-24½"-24½"-26½"-26½" (= 9½ stripes in total, the last half stripe with lavender). Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 48-52-58-64-70-78 sts. On next row (= RS) cast on 1 st in each side = 50-54-60-66-72-80 sts. Continue with row 2 in English rib back and forth - and stripes as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 51-51-56-56-60-60 cm / 20"-20"-22"-22"-23½"-23½", cast/bind off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast/bind off from neck on every row from RS as follows: Cast/bind off 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 0-0-0-1-1-1 time = 16-18-20-22-24-28 sts remain on shoulder. When piece measures 57-57-62-62-67-67 cm / 22½"-22½"-24½"-24½"-26½"-26½", loosely cast/bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Work the left shoulder the same way, but cast off from neck on every row from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Cast on 38-41-44-44-47-50 sts with lavender. Work 1st row (= WS) as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with 1 edge st in garter st = 26-28-30-30-32-34 sts. Then work in English rib with 1 edge st in garter st in each side - Read ENGLISH RIB above. When piece measures 6-6-6-5-5-5 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-2"-2"-2", inc 1 st in each side - Read INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 6½-6½-6-5½-4-4 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/8"-2 1/4"-1½"-1½" a total of 6-6-6-7-8-8 times = 38-40-42-44-48-50 sts.
When 7½-7½-6½-6½-5½-5½ stripes have been worked in total (the last half stripe is worked with light beige) piece measures approx. 45-45-42-42-39-39 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-16½"-16½"-15 1/4"-15 1/4" (shorter measures in the larger size because of wider shoulders). Loosely cast/bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew sleeve seams tog inside 1 edge st and sew in sleeves.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet with 2 strands light beige on hook size 6 mm / J/10 along the entire neck edge as follows (start mid back): ch 1, * 1 sc (UK dc), ch 2, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'' *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc, fasten off.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Belinda Götz wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung für den Rücken, endet diese mitten im Satz. Wie wird der Rücken fertig gestellt, wann muss ich Wie viele Maschen für den Halsausschnitt abketten. Danke, Gruß Belinda

31.01.2020 - 13:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Götz, danke für den Hinweis, Deutsche Anleitung wird ergänzt. Sie sollen beim Rückenteil die 2. Reihe vom Muster in Hin- und Rückreihen wiederholen, mit Streifen wie zuvor und mit 1 Randmasche kraus rechts beidseitig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.01.2020 - 14:41

country flag Jane Gjandrup wrote:

Hej, forhåbentligt svar denne gang. Kan det ikke lade sig gøre at lukke af fra halssiden i patentstrik på hv. 2. pind i begge sider til halsudskæring, så det bliver ens i begge sider? Eller bliver det på hv. 2. og 4. i en side, og 1. og 3. i den anden side? (Masker vender sådan, at jeg ikke kan strikke en patent-pind fra ærmegabssiden 2 gange, hvad der er nødvendigt for ens indtagning i halsudskæring). Vh Jane

07.03.2019 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. Du feller på begynneslen av pinnen fra halsen: På den høyre skulderen feller du på hver pinne fra rettsiden, på den venstre skulderen feller du på hver pinne fra vrangsiden. Om du stiller spørsmålet ditt som et "spørsmål" og ikke som "kommentar" svarer vi deg fortere. Du kan godt la vær å felle av, og så sy skuldersømmene med maskesting om du ønsker det. Ermene syes sammen innfor 1 kantmaske fra rettsiden. God fornøyelse

11.03.2019 - 13:31

country flag Jane wrote:

Hej. Jeg strikker opskriften på 2 pinde. Har først fornylig "opdaget" sammensyningsteknikker, og ville det så være nemmere at holde skuldermasker åbne, og lukke skuldrene sammen med maskesting? Syes sidesømmene sammen ret mod ret, og hedder de sidesømme, madrassting e.a.? Venlig hilsen Jane

27.02.2019 - 12:00

country flag Mercedes Siorat wrote:

On nous dit qu\'à 55 cm on doit rabattre les 14 m centrales pour l\'encolure. Ce qui nous fait seulement 3 cm entre le dessous de manche et le début de l\'encolure. Puis il faut rabattre toutes les mailles des épaules à 57 cm. Cela nous ferait seulement 5 cm entre la séparation dos et devant et le haut du pull. Je pense que pour le devant il y a la même erreur. A combien de cm faut-il rabattre les mailles de l\'encolure ? Merci

17.04.2018 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Siorat, on divise l'ouvrage à 42-41 cm (en taille S-M) pour terminer le dos et le devant séparément. L'encolure dos va être faite à 55 cm de hauteur totale (pas de hauteur d'emmanchures), soit à 13-14 cm depuis la division, et les mailles des épaules seront rabattues 2 cm plus haut, à 57 cm de hauteur totale. Les emmanchures font 15 cm de hauteur totale (cf schéma). Bon tricot!

17.04.2018 - 15:54

country flag Judith wrote:

Ich finde die Farbauswahl von brushed alpaca silk etwas zu klein. Könnte ich brushed Alpaca Silk und Kid Silk kombinieren? Vielleicht wenn ich Kid-Silk doppelfädig stricke?

17.03.2018 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Judith, gerne können Sie mit 2 Fäden Kid-Silk anstatt 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk stricken, hier können Sie ein Beispiel sehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.03.2018 - 09:27

country flag Jenny wrote:

Hallo, reichen tatsächlich nur 100g Wolle für Größe M? Das erscheint mir so wenig ...

26.11.2017 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jenny, Brushed Alpaca Silk ist etwa 140 m für 25 g (siehe Farbkarte, dh hier brauchen Sie 2 Knäuel jeder Farbe. Die Maschenprobe bitte prüfen - wird mit Nadel 6 und 12 M = 10 cm gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.11.2017 - 10:16

country flag Regine wrote:

Hallo. Schön sommerlicher Pulli! Ich habe viel Spass beim Nachstricken. Aber beim Vorderteil nach den 10M abketten, 2x2M abketten? Grüße Regine

22.06.2014 - 22:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Regine, genau, dann müssen Sie nach dem Abketten der mittleren M am Halsrand noch 2 x 2 M abketten (also pro Halssseite 4 M) und sind dann mit den Ausschnittabnahmen fertig. Die Übersetzung war an dieser Stelle nicht korrekt und wurde gerade richtiggestellt. Weiterhin viel Spaß beim Stricken und beim Tragen!

23.06.2014 - 17:23

country flag Gina wrote:

144 M: Vorder- UND Rückenteil! Es wird rund gestrickt.

19.11.2013 - 19:15

country flag Antje wrote:

Ich benötige bitte Hife. ich habe angefangen in Gr. 38ihren Pullover zu stricken aber nach nur wenigen Reighen merke ich, dass 144Maschen in einer Reihe viel zu viel sind (ca. 60cm für Vorderteil). Wei kann ich verkleinern?

19.11.2013 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antje, im Schnittmuster sehen Sie die Masse, die Sie erreichen, wenn die Maschenprobe mit unserer übereinstimmt. Suchen Sie dort das passende Mass für Ihre Grösse.

19.11.2013 - 23:04

country flag Sakko wrote:

Kunde har gjort opmærksom på, at der ikke er nok garn til str. S.

08.03.2013 - 15:01