DROPS 139-7
DROPS design: Pattern no LN-024
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 100-114-128-128-142-142 cm / 39½"-45"-50½"-50½"-55 3/4"-55 3/4"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''

Materials: DROPS LIN from Garnstudio
Color no 103, linen:
350-400-450-500-550-600 g

Or use:
Materials: DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
Colour no 09, beige:
350-400-450-500-550-600 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 17 sts x 28 rows in diagram M.1 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 (80 cm / 32'') - for rib

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 2 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. NOTE: All edge sts are worked in garter st.

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.1A = 3 sts, M.1B = 6 sts and M.1C = 4 sts. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by working 2 sts tog.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for 2 button holes on right band, approx. 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'' and approx. 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'' from the top of shoulder.
1 BUTTON HOLE = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 172-196-220-220-244-244 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Lin or Belle. Then work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge sts in garter st - See explanation above, * K 2, P 4 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st = 28-32-36-36-40-40 P-sections (seen from RS).
When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'', dec 1 st in every P-section (seen from RS) - Read DECREASE TIP = 144-164-184-184-204-204 sts. Continue in rib with K 2/P 3 with 1 edge st in each side.
When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'', dec 1 more st in every P-section (seen from RS) = 116-132-148-148-164-164 sts. Continue in rib with K 2/P 2 with 1 edge st in each side. When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-2¾'', dec 29-33-37-37-41-41 sts evenly on last row from WS = 87-99-111-111-123-123 sts.
On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work as follows: 1 edge st, work diagram M.1A 1 time (= 3 sts), then diagram M.1B a total of 13-15-17-17-19-19 times and finally diagram M.1C 1 time (= 4 sts), finish with 1 edge st.
Continue diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in each side until piece measures 41-43-41-43-41-43 cm / 16 1/8"-17"-16 1/8"-17"-16 1/8"-17".
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Now insert a marker in each side of piece (= armhole starts here).
Continue to work until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''. Then work in garter st over all sts until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS bind off the middle 17 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 33-39-45-45-51-51 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62-74-86-86-98-98 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Then work rib as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st, * P 4, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 edge st towards mid front = 10-12-14-14-16-16 P-sections (seen from RS).
When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'', dec 1 st in every P-section (seen from RS) = 52-62-72-72-82-82 sts. Continue in rib with K 2/P 3 with 1 edge st in each side.
When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'', dec 1 more st in every P-section (seen from RS) = 42-50-58-58-66-66 sts.
Continue in rib with K 2/P 2 with 1 edge st in each side.
When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-2¾'' dec 9-11-13-13-15-15 sts evenly on last row from WS = 33-39-45-45-51-51 sts. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work short rows for diagonal front edge as follows: 1 edge st, work diagram M.1A 1 time (= 3 sts), diagram M.1B a total of 1-2-3-3-4-4 times (= 6-12-18-18-24-24 sts) = 10-16-22-22-28-28 sts on needle, turn piece, tighten yarn and work back. Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, work diagram M.1A 1 time, diagram M.1B a total of 2-3-4-4-5-5 times = 16-22-28-28-34-34 sts on needle, turn piece, tighten yarn and work back.
Work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st, work diagram M.1A 1 time, diagram M.1B a total of 3-4-5-5-6-6 times = 22-28-34-34-40-40 sts on needle, turn piece, tighten yarn and work back. On next row from RS work all sts as follows: 1 edge st, work diagram M.1A 1 time, diagram M.1B a total of 4-5-6-6-7-7 times, then work diagram M.1C 1 time, finish with 1 edge st = 33-39-45-45-51-51 sts.
Continue diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in each side until piece measures 41-43-41-43-41-43 cm / 16 1/8"-17"-16 1/8"-17"-16 1/8"-17".
Now insert a marker in the right side of piece seen from RS (armhole starts here).
Continue to work until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''. Now work in garter st over all sts until finished measurements. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Pick up from RS on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 approx. 80 to 100 sts between markers along one armhole. K next row from WS - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 75-75-87-87-99-99 (incl 1 edge st in each side). On next row from RS work as follows: 1 edge st, work diagram M.1A 1 time (= 3 sts), then diagram M.1B a total of 11-11-13-13-15-15 times, work diagram M.1C 1 time (= 4 sts), finish with 1 edge st. Continue to work diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in each side until piece measures approx. 9-9-8-8-7-7 cm / 3½"-3½"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and dec 1 st on row - while AT THE SAME TIME working rib (K 2, P 2) with 1 edge st in each side = 74-74-86-86-98-98 sts. When sleeve measures 13-13-12-12-11-11 cm / 5 1/8"-5 1/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8", loosely bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

RIGHT BAND:
Worked back and forth on needle. Pick up from RS on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 approx. 110 to 130 sts along the entire right front piece, at the end of row cast on 15 new sts for collar at the back. K next row from WS - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts along right front piece to 112-116-120-124-128-132 (do not inc/dec over the collar sts at the back) = 127-131-135-139-143-147 sts in total. Then work rib from RS as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st (= 31-32-33-34-35-36 P-sections). Continue in rib until band measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', then inc from RS 1 P st in the last 12-12-14-14-16-16 P-sections (= inc around the neck) = 139-143-149-153-159-163 sts. When band measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'', bind off for button holes - see explanation above. Continue with K over K and P over P until band measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-2¾'', loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Cast on 15 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 for collar at the back, then pick up sts along left front band as on right front band. Work as right band but reversed and without button holes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew collar tog mid back inside 1 edge st (with WS against WS), and sew collar to neck line at the back of neck. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Mona Svenningsen wrote:

Det er stadig de forkortede pinde på højre forstykke ( tænker mønstret gir sig selv når de forkortede pinde er strikket) Det skal lige siges at jeg har strikket rib stykket som på venstre, det ved jeg ikke om er korrekt.

12.01.2017 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona. Du strikker höjre forstk fra retten, saa begynder du midt foran. Dvs, mönstret strikkes i spejlbillede i forhold til det venstre. Strik fra retten: M.1B, M.1A og 1 kantmaske i siden. Saa strikker du f.eks. den mindste, saa skal du vende fra vrangen: 1 kantm, M.1A 1 gang og M.1B 2 gange, vend og strik tilbage (retten). Osv.

08.03.2017 - 14:00

country flag Mona Svenningsen wrote:

Hej igen Kan i uddybe svaret lidt nærmere, da jeg syntes jeg har prøvet den måde og stadig ikke kan få det til at passe. sådan som jeg læser svaret vil højre forstykke strikkes fra c til a i diagrammet. eller har jeg misforstået det.

12.01.2017 - 06:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona. Er det stadig de forkortede pinde eller er det nu hvordan du strikker diagrammerne paa höjre forst?

12.01.2017 - 14:44

country flag Mona Svenningsen wrote:

Hvordan strikker jeg de forkortede pinde på højre forstykke? Fra ret eller vrang siden? Syntes ikke jeg kan få det til at passe på nogen måde

26.12.2016 - 14:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona. Du strikker de forkortede p fra siden (= retten paa venstre forstk), saa det vil blive fra vrangen paa de höjre forstk

30.12.2016 - 12:48

country flag Mona Svenningsen wrote:

Kan ikke diagrammet til at passe med 109 masker + 2 kantmasker efter jeg har skiftet fra ribstykket. Og hvordan strikkes pind 7 i diagrammet? kan i hjælpe, da jeg ikke helt forstår det som det er beskrevet i opskriften

20.08.2016 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona. Jo, du strikker som fölger: 1 kantm, A.1 (= 3 m), A.1B 17 ganger (17 x 6 m = 102) og afslut med M.1C (= 4 m) og 1 kantmaske: 1+3+102+4+1 = 111 m. Du strikker p som fölger: 1 kantmaske, Saa A.1: 2 r, 1 kast (og nu gaar du automatisk over i M.1B) og strikker: ta 1 m løst av p som om den strikkes r, 2 r sammen, løft den løse m over, 1 kast, 3 r, 1 kast, ta 1 m løst av p som om den strikkes r, 2 r sammen, løft den løse m over, 1 kast osv. Dette gentages til du kommer til sidste gentagelse hvor du automatisk vil gaa over i M.1C, afslut med ta 1 m løst av p som om den strikkes r, 2 r sammen, løft den løse m over, 1 kast, 2 r og 1 kantmaske.

25.08.2016 - 15:58

country flag Mona Svenningsen wrote:

Hej Kan denne ikke strikkes i garn af garngruppe A på mindre pinde? Garnet jeg har er cotton viscose som jeg gerne vil strikke denne model i.

10.08.2016 - 06:46

TINA wrote:

Hi, I don't really get it how do you knit back which is 99 sts if M1 has 13 sts + 2 edge sts. Thank you for your answer.

07.07.2016 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tina, over the 99 sts on back piece, work as follows: 1 edge st, M.1 A (= 3 sts), repeat M.1B (= 6 sts) a total of 15 times (= over 90 sts), work then M.1 C (= 4 sts) and finish with 1 edge st. Happy knitting!

07.07.2016 - 12:32

country flag Donatella wrote:

Buongiorno, mi scusi per le frequenti domande ma sono alle prime armi. Ho eseguito il davanti sinistro e iniziando il destro sto ragionando che per simmetria dovrei eseguire il diagramma M1 al contrario. In parole povere io fino ad ora l'ho eseguito da destra a sinistra e adesso dovrei farlo da sinistra a destra? E' giusto? Grazie per la disponibilità buona giornata.

03.06.2016 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donatella. Sul davanti destro lavora il diagramma leggendolo sempre da destra verso sinistra. Ci riscriva se è ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

03.06.2016 - 12:02

country flag Donatella wrote:

Buongiorno, avrei una domanda. Come può bastare 400 gr. di cotone per questo modello se io ho appena finito il dietro e ne già ho usato quasi 300 gr.? Faccio sempre i vostri modelli ed è la prima volta che mi capita, è sempre tutto perfetto!. Mi viene il dubbio di aver sbagliato qualcosa ma ho controllato ed è tutto come da indicazioni.

31.05.2016 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donatella. L’indicazione dei 400 g è riferita al filato Lin (fuori produzione) o a Belle. Entrambi prevedono 120 m in 50 g. Se ha sostituito con un cotone con un metraggio diverso, deve calcolare la quantità necessaria: p.es se sta usando Muskat, sono 100 m in 50 g. Avrà bisogno di 120 m x8 (gomitoli) = 960 m / 100 (metri in un gomitolo di Safran) = 9,6 gomitoli, quindi ca. 500g. Verifichi anche la correttezza del campione. Buon lavoro!

31.05.2016 - 17:13

country flag Donatella wrote:

Buongiorno. Il diagramma M.1 deve essere eseguito come descritto nella spiegazione: M.1A 1 volta, M.1B 13 volte, M.1C 1 volta? Ma M.1 A e M.1C nell'ultima riga non si possono eseguire da soli. Come faccio?

27.05.2016 - 08:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donatella. Nell'ultima riga dei diagrammi, inizia con il diag. M1.A e prosegue subito con M.1B: di fatto è un diagramma unico. Quindi lavora 2 m dir, 1 gettato, passa 1 m dir, 2 m insieme a dir, accavalla, 1 gettato, 3 m dir e poi nuovamente 1 gettato e così via. Analogamente alla fine della riga. Buon lavoro!

27.05.2016 - 08:38

country flag COELHO wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment décomposer' le rang 7. J'ai vu que la question avait été posée mais je ne comprends pas la langue de la réponse..... Je n'arrive pas à comprendre la logique du 7 ième rang fantaisie. Merci ce votre aide.

25.04.2016 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Coelho, la vidéo ci-dessous montre (pour un autre modèle) comment réaliser ce motif et notamment le rang 7. Bon tricot!

26.04.2016 - 08:20