DROPS 138-15
DROPS design: Pattern no LA-004
Yarn group A
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Width: approx. 46 cm / 18'' when blocked
Length: approx. 150 cm / 59'' when blocked

Materials: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g color no 0100, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 - read KNITTING GAUGE - below
+ an extra circular needle in the same size for cast on edges.

KNITTING GAUGE:
This garment is to be soaked and stretched to size afterwards. The knitting gauge is therefore not that important but to get a sense of whether you are working to loose/tight, 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 = approx. 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2. Diagrams show pattern from RS.

KNITTING TIP:
It is very important to cast on and bind off loosely so that the edges can be blocked and shaped into small tips when the shawl is finished.
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SHAWL:
Cast on 87 sts on 2 circular needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lace. Pull out one of the needles and work first row as follows from RS: Diagram M.1A (= 7 sts), diagram M.1B over the next 70 sts, finish with diagram M.1C (= 10 sts).
When diagram M.1 has been worked one time vertically, continue with diagram M.2 (instead of diagram M.1) the same way until piece measures approx. 148 cm / 58'' (or desired length).
Work the last 2 rows in diagram M.2 A, B and C one more time, then bind off very LOOSELY.

BLOCKING:
Place the shawl in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet.
Carefully squeeze the water out of the shawl - do not twist the shawl - then roll the shawl in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the shawl will now only be moist.
Place the shawl on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size and fasten it with pins. NOTE: Insert a pin in every repetition along the short sides where 3 sts were worked tog and 1 pin in each corner (= 10 pins in each side). Lightly pull at every pin so that the edge is shaped into small tips. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the garment has been washed.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to
K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 2 sts as if to K
tog, K 1 and
pass the 2 slipped sts over
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Debora wrote:

Buongiorno, avrei bisogno di un chiarimento sulla quinta riga del diagramma M.2B: la sequenza di punti da ripetere inizia e termina con un gettato? Mi spiego meglio: devo ripetere *get, 3 dir, get, 2 dir, punto con accavallata, 2 dir, get* ? Oppure il gettato iniziale e finale della sequenza coincidono e quindi la sequenza da ripetere è *3 dir, get, 2 dir, punto con accavallata, 2 dir, get*? Vi ringrazio sin d'ora per la risposta!

04.04.2022 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Debora, l'opzione corretta è la seconda, il 1° gettato fa parte di M.2A mentre il secondo delle ripetizioni di M.2B. Buon lavoro!

05.04.2022 - 22:23

country flag Jaana wrote:

Hej, hur gör man omslagen mellan maskorna? Ska man sticka ihop två maskor efter omslagen? Det är många omslag men inte lika många minskningar på en rad. Hälsningar!

15.01.2022 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jaana. Du följer bara symbolerna i diagrammet så stämmer det. Det är lika många ökningar (omslag) som minskningar per varv. Tänk på att den sista symbolen i förklaringen (=lyft 2 m som om de skullestickas räta tills, sticka 1 rm och drag de 2 lyfta m över) minskar 2 maskor. Mvh DROPS Design

17.01.2022 - 13:49

country flag Sandra wrote:

Wird es ein vergleichbares Garn für Lace geben (LL und Qualität)? Das war mein Lieblingsgarn. Danke.

27.11.2020 - 21:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk hat die genau selbe Zusammensetzung und kann gerne DROPS Lace ersetzen. Benutzen Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren zu lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.11.2020 - 08:13

country flag Marimar wrote:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterai tricoter cette écharpe en Lace comme indiqué, or je ne trouve plus la laine pour cela . Est ce une rupture momentanée ? Qu'elles sont mes alternatives ? Merci

18.11.2020 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marimar! Cette laine n’est plus en vente. Vous pouvez la remplacer par DROPS Alpaca, Baby Merino, BabyAlpaca Silk, Delight, Fabel, Flora, Kid-Silk, Nord, Safran (laines du groupe de fils A), Rappelez-vous que les qualités proposées ont une texture, une composition et un aspect différents. Le vêtement aura ainsi une allure et des caractéristiques différentes en fonction de la qualité proposée que vous aurez choisi d'utiliser. Une laine ou un fil à tricoter avec un métrage différent requiert une quantité différente (utilisez notre convertisseur dans les explications du modele pour savoir combien de laine vous aurez besoin). Bon tricot!

18.11.2020 - 18:01

country flag Maria wrote:

I have bought the DROPS Kid-Silk for this one. Do I need any stitch adjustments? Also is it possible to use straight needles? Thank you

11.12.2019 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, did you remember to use the yarn converter to be sure you will have enough DROPS Kid-Silk? You can work with straight needles - your stitches might just be somewhat tighter - you'll find here how to cast on with 2 needles, just use 2 straight needles here instead. Happy knitting!

11.12.2019 - 13:05

country flag Verena Switon wrote:

Hallo ! Ich würde gerne die Maschenanzahl reduzieren, um den Schal etwas schmaler und länger zu arbeiten. Ist das überhaupt möglich und um wie viele Maschen kann ich reduzieren ? Danke

16.06.2018 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Switon, wir können leider nicht jeder Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Frage anpassen. Hier können Sie aber 10 Maschen weniger anschlagen für je 1 Rapport M.1B/M.2B - Sollten Sie weitere individuelle HIlfe, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem Laden, wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.06.2018 - 08:12

Eliz wrote:

Hello, I am knitting M.1 using markers to separate the 3 sections in the diagram but have to keep moving the markers 1 stitch to the right to keep the 7-10-10 divisions. M.1a has a YO but no decrease to offset it, increasing the section from 7 to 8 stitches each time. Is this as expected or am I doing something incorrectly? Looks like the same will happen in M.2. Thanks

06.03.2018 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Liz, you are making it right, move markers so that the number of sts is always the same as shown in diagram (in M.1 as well as in M.2) to make sure you will always have the correct number of sts (this is due to the YOs and dec that are not beside each other but with some sts in between). Happy knitting!

06.03.2018 - 16:16

country flag Hanne Aasbak wrote:

Etter å ha strikket noen runder med mønster M.1A ( =7m),M.1B (=70m) og M.1C (=10 m), får jeg for lite masker på M.1C og for mange masker på M.1A. M.1A har ikke (ta 2 m løs av p, 1r , løft de 2 løse m over), noe som gjør at denne siden får flere masker, på grunn av kastet man skal ha. Hva som har skjedd med M.1C vet jeg ikke, men har for få masker. Hva har gått galt?

18.12.2017 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Om du lar en merketråd mellom diagrammene følge med loddrett oppover når du strikker, så vil du hele tide kontrollere at M.1a alltid har 7 masker, M.1b har 70 masker og M.1c har 10 masker. Kastene og fellingene er alltid på samme sted, men når du begynner på M.2 forandres dette. Når du begynner på M.2a strikkes det 3 rett masker, 2 rett sammen, 1 kast og 2 rett masker (=7 masker) og M.1a er på 7 masker osv. God Fornøyelse!

20.12.2017 - 13:59

country flag Karina wrote:

Wie werden die Umschläge in der Rückreihe gestrickt? Ganz normal oder verschränkt? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

12.12.2017 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Karina, die Umschläge werden ganz normal in der Rückreihe gestrickt, so daß Löcher entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.12.2017 - 10:27

May Tranquilino wrote:

What is the yardage of yarn required for this shawl? Thank you

28.01.2017 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hello May. This shawl requires approx. 874 yds for yarn of 2 ply / lace. Drops Lace ( 1 ball of yarn): 50 gr = approx. 437 yds ( 400 m).

29.01.2017 - 14:10