Summer Circle

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in 2 strands ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 136-1
DROPS design: Pattern no BS-011
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
To fit chest measurements: 80/88 – 92/100 – 110/118 cm / 31"/35" - 36"/40" - 43"/47"

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g color no 7219, pistachio
150-200-200 g color no 7402, light sea green
150-200-200 g color no 1760, light grey purple
100-100-100 g color no 3250, light old pink
100-100-100 g color no 4314, grey purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x 5½ rows with tr vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
STRIPES:
BODY:
Beg with 2 strands light sea green.
Then work 3-3-4 rounds with each of the following colors:
Stripe 1: 2 strands light sea green,
Stripe 2: 1 strand light sea green and 1 strand pistachio
Stripe 3: 2 strands pistachio
Stripe 4: 1 strand pistachio and 1 strand light gray purple
Stripe 5: 2 strands light gray purple,
Stripe 6: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand light gray purple
Stripe 7: 2 strands light old pink,
Stripe 8: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand gray purple
Stripe 9 until finished measurements: 2 strands gray purple

SLEEVE:
Worked in stripes. Work sleeve cap as 5th-5th-4th stripe, then work 12 cm / 4¾'' as stripe 4-4-3, 12 cm / 4¾'' as stripe 3-3-2, 12 cm / 4¾'' as stripe 2-2-1, and work as stripe 1 until finished measurements.

CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on every round/row with ch 4.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to the body):
Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 dc, in the next 1 hdc and in the last 1 sc, turn with ch 1, skip sc, work 1 sl st in hdc and 1 sl st in dc, then 1 sc in first tr, 1 hdc in next tr and 1 dc in next tr, work tr until 3 tr remain at end of row *, repeat from *-* until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Dec at beg of row by working sl st over the no of tr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of tr to be dec remains, turn piece.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Ch 8 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 12 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: 5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: READ CROCHET TIP!
1 tr, 2 tr in same dc, * 1 tr in ch-space, 3 tr in next dc *, finish with 1 tr in the last ch-space and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 48 tr.
ROUND 4: 1 tr, * 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 tr in next tr and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 72 tr.
ROUND 5: 1 tr, * 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr * repeat from *-* and finish with 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in next tr and 1 sl st in 4th ch = 96 tr.
ROUND 6:
5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7:
Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 120 tr.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 10th tr = 132 tr.
ROUND 9:
5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 66 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 165 tr.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 15th tr = 176 tr.
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 16th tr = 187 tr.
Piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' from the middle and outwards.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 13:
ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 45 tr (= up towards neck), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 88 tr (= down towards back), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 45 sc (= 47 tr), then work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 88 sc (= 91 tr), work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 198 tr.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 228 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 33 cm / 13'' from the middle and outwards.
Continue working only over 79 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 35 tr at top by neck and 35 tr at bottom of back. Cut the yarn.
Continue with explanation below for front piece.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
1 ch, then work 1 sc in each of the first 50 tr (= up towards neck), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 90 tr (= down towards back), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 3 tr evenly over the first 50 sc (= 53 tr), then work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 90 sc (= 93 tr), work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 210 tr.
ROUND 16 to 20:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 20th round there are 240 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' from the middle and outwards.
Continue working only over 81 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 39 tr at top by neck and 39 tr at bottom of back. Cut the yarn.
Continue with explanation below for front piece.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 18th tr = 209 tr.
ROUND 15:
1 ch, then work 1 sc in each of the first 54 tr (= up towards neck), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 91 tr (= down towards back), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 54 sc (= 56 tr), then work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 91 sc (= 94 tr), and work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole = 222 tr.
ROUND 17 to 22:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 22nd round there are 258 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 37 cm / 14½'' from the middle and outwards.
Continue working only over 89 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 40 tr at top by neck and 40 tr at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 79-81-89 tr. Insert a marker after 23-24-27 sts in from each side (= 33-33-35 sts between markers). Then work tr back and forth over these sts while at the same time inc 1 st at every marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 sts on row, inc alternately before and after marker) and dec 3 sts at end and beg of every row in each side – SEE DECREASE TIP 1 until a total of 6-8-12 rows back and forth have been worked = 55-49-41 tr.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left piece over 79-81-89 tr in right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down with 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Ch 28-34-38 with stripe 5-5-4. Turn and work 1 tr in 5th ch from hook ( = 2 tr), then work 1 tr in every ch = 25-31-35 tr.
ROW 2: Work ch 4, 3 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 23-29-33 tr, 4 tr in the last tr = 31-37-41 tr. Turn.
ROW 3, 4 and 5: Work ch 4, 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until 1 tr remains, 3 tr in the last tr = 43-49-53 tr. Turn.
ROW 6: Work ch 4, 3 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 41-47-51 tr, 4 tr in the last tr = 49-55-59 tr. Turn. Switch to stripe 4-4-3 here.

Then work tr on all rows until piece measures 17-15-15 cm / 6 3/4"-6"-6". Continue with tr while AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows in each side:

SIZE S/M:
* Work 1 row where dec 1 tr in each side - see Decrease tip. Work 1 row without dec. Work 1 row where dec 1 tr in each side. Work 2 rows without dec *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times = 12 dec = 37 tr.
SIZE L/XL + XXL/XXXL:
* Work 1 row where dec 1 tr in each side - see Decrease tip. Work 1 row without dec *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times = 16 dec = 39-43 tr.

Continue to work as follows:
ROW 1: 1 tr in every tr.
ROW 2: 6 ch (= 1 tr + ch 2), skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, * ch 2, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 18-19-21 ch-spaces.
ROW 3: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr in every ch-space = 37-39-43 tr.
Repeat rows 1 to 3 a total of 3 times, sleeve measures approx. 61-61-61 cm / 24"-24"-24". Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows with 2 strands gray purple: 1 sl st, * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 st, fasten with 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Sew in the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.03.2012
Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g color no 7219, pistachio
150-200-200 g color no 7402, light sea green
150-200-200 g color no 1760, light grey purple
100-100-100 g color no 3250, light old pink
100-100-100 g color no 4314, grey purple
Updated online: 27.03.2012
STRIPES:...
Stripe 8: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand gray purple
Stripe 9 until finished measurements: 2 strands gray purple
ASSEMBLY:...
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows with 2 strands gray purple:

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (191)

country flag Marietje Beekhuijzen wrote:

Ik begrijp dit patroon niet.bedoeld U met 2 draden licht zeegroen 2 toeren? Of moet je dan 6 toeren haken?

16.05.2015 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marietje. U haakt tegelijkertijd met het haken van de stokjes volgens het patroon ook de STREPEN met 2 draden, 3-3 of 4 toeren (afhankelijk van welke maat je haakt) met 2 draden licht zeegroen, dan wisselen naar 1 draad licht zeegroen en 1 draad pistache en haak 3-3 of 4 toeren enzovoort.

19.05.2015 - 15:27

Kath wrote:

Hi, please could you clarify stich count for rows 3, 4 & 5 on the sleeves? I have 31 trebles after completing row 2; 34 completing row 3, including 3 trebles in last of row 2 and starting with 2 into first treble after chain 4; 37 trebles in row 4, following same increases as row 3; only 40 trebles in row 5, again following 2 trebles after chain 4 & 3 trebles into last treble. Any help gratefully recieved, really enjoying this pattern! 😍 thank you, Kath

28.04.2015 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kath, on row 2 you have 31 tr, then inc 2 tr on each side (4 ch + 2 tr in 1st tr at beg of row + 3 tr in last tr at end of row) on next 3 rows (rows 3, 4 and 5): 31 + ( 2 inc x 2 sides x 3 rows = 12 inc) = (= 35 tr on row 3, 39 tr on row 4) 43 tr on row 5. Happy crocheting!

29.04.2015 - 09:27

country flag Melissa Miller wrote:

Hello! I have just started crocheting again since I was a little girl and I have made several things now. I am hooked! :) I saw this sweater and it's so beautiful! I am going to try it! I just have a question on the amount of yarn. Do I need four 50g skeins of Light Sea Green yarn if my making a M/L sweater? Thank you for your time!

31.03.2015 - 22:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Miller, you will require 3 balls light sea green in size S/M and 4 balls in size L/XL - to find out the matching size, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these to the measurements in chart. Happy crocheting!

26.05.2015 - 16:19

country flag Delphine wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide. Oui, c'est bien cela que j'ai obtenu pour le dos. C'est après pour le devant gauche et devant droit: Je dois couper les fils et reprendre deux fils gris mauve. et donc si j'ai bien compris, je dois continuer avec deux fils gris mauve pour les 6 rangs en aller et retour pour le devant gauche et 6 rangs pour le devant droit, pour arriver à la fin à 55mailles. est ce correct?

11.03.2015 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Delphine, les devants commencent après le 19ème tour, vous continuez les rayures en suivant l'ordre des tours à raison de 3 rangs dans chacune des couleurs indiquées, en continuant la dernière rayure si nécessaire et vous terminez avec 2 fils gris mauve (9 rayures de 3 tours/rangs = 27 rangs). Bon crochet!

11.03.2015 - 14:42

country flag Delphine wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai réalisé le dos et le devant gauche en taille S et je remarque que au niveau couleur, ca ne ressemble pas à la photo. En effet, j'ai réalisé les 6rangs du devant gauche par deux fils gris mauve. J'ai suivi les explications des rayures (Rayure 9 jusqu'à la fin: 2 fils gris mauve ). Me suis je trompée? ou est ce bien, gris mauve tout le devant gauche et devant droit. Merci d'avance

11.03.2015 - 07:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Delphine, avez-vous la bonne tension en hauteur, soit 5 rangs et demi de DB = 10 cm ? En taille S, on a 19 tours pour le cercle et après les emmanchures + 6 tours pour le devant, soit 25 tours - les rayures se crochètent par 3 tours dans chaque couleur, on termine la rayure 8 au tour 24 (3 tours x 8 rayures), et on fait le dernier tour (=rayure 9) avec 2 fils gris mauve. Bon crochet!

11.03.2015 - 09:12

Cathy wrote:

Hello Could you please explain what 3-3-4 rounds mean. I know I am switching colors but do not understand what the 3-3-4 is. Thank you.

11.03.2015 - 02:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathy, at the beginning of the body, you crochet 3 rounds with each of the stated colours in size S/M and L/XL and 4 rounds in size XXL/XXXL. Happy crocheting!

11.03.2015 - 09:02

country flag Delphine wrote:

Bonjour, j'aurais voulu savoir comment repérer ou recommencer à crocheter lorsque l'on a coupé le fil et lorsque l'on commence le devant gauche puis le devant droit. J'ai bien compris qu'il ne fallait pas crocheter les 35mailles au dessus et les 35 mailles en dessous mais repérer le bon endroit pour que ce soir bien symétrique? Merci d'avance. (ce modèle est très sympa à crocheter et il est magnifique) Delphine

24.02.2015 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Delphine, et merci. Pour être sûre de trouver la bonne symétrie, vous pouvez plier le cercle en double en alignant les emmanchures l'une au-dessus de l'autre, vous pouvez ainsi mettre un marqueur dans la m au niveau du pli en haut et en bas et ainsi comptez les mailles. Bon crochet!

24.02.2015 - 16:35

country flag Joke Janssen wrote:

Bedankt om mij verder te helpen met de voorpandjes. Nu heb ik een vraag ivm de mouw. Bij toer 3,4,5 moet je in het 1ste dstk +2 dstk doen en in het laatste dstk +3 dstk... Einde toer 5 zou je voor S/M 43 dstk moeten hebben, maar ik kom maar op 40. toer 2 heb ik er 31 zoals vermeld, toer 3: 34, toer 4: 37 en toer 5: 40. Doe zoals het er staat maar kom dus echt niet op 43 dstk???? Of moet ik echt laatste echte dstk nemen ipv 4l (= dstk)

09.02.2015 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Joke. Vergeet niet dat de eerste 4 l van elke toer is gelijk aan 1 dstk. Dus na toer 3 heb je 35 dstk (3+29+3 dstk), na toer 4 39 dstk (3+33+3 dstk) en na toer 5 43 dstk (3+37+3 dstk).

10.02.2015 - 14:58

country flag Joke Janssen wrote:

Ben met een s/m bezig Ben ik de enige die hier problemen mee heeft??? Anders mss er bij zetten vanaf waar je moet beginnen tellen of zo. Is maar een idee hé. Maar buiten dit wel een heel leuk vestje.

04.02.2015 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Joke. Je moet verder haken over 79 dstk aan beide zijkanten. Je hebt dus 35 dstk boven = hals en 35 dstk onder = onderkant. Je plaats de markeerders bij deze 79 dstk zoals beschreven, dus je telt 23 dstk vanaf iedere kant van de 79 dstk en plaatst hier de markeerder = 33 dstk tussen de markeerders (of te wel: 23+33+23 = 79 dstk). Je haakt nu hier heen en weer en meerdert zoals beschreven.

04.02.2015 - 16:00

country flag Joke Janssen wrote:

Hallo, kun je mij zeggen vanaf waar ik moet tellen ivm de voorpandjes? sorry, maar ik snap er niks van. heb al geprobeerd met het midden en dan L en R 23 stokjes, maar dan kom ik niet uit op 33 tussen de markeerders, Please, help mij aub. ;-)

02.02.2015 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Joke. Kan je aangeven welke maat je maakt? Dan kan ik sneller meekijken en je verder helpen :-) bvd

03.02.2015 - 15:18