DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Grace

Knitted DROPS fitted jacket with lace pattern and ¾ sleeves in ”Muskat” or ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 138-5
DROPS design: Pattern no R-615
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-110-126 cm / 36½"-43½"-49½"
Full length: 67-70-73 cm / 26 3/8"-27½"-28 3/4"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
500-600-700 g color no 03, mint green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6- or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, diagram shows pattern from RS.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right band.
1 button hole = K 3rd and 4th st from mid front tog and make 1 YO.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44 and 50 cm / 3 1/8",5½",8",10 1/4",12½",15",17 1/4" and 19 3/4".
SIZE L/XL: 8, 14, 21, 27, 33, 40, 46 and 52 cm / 3 1/8",5½",8 1/4",10 5/8",13",15 3/4",18" and 20½".
SIZE XXL/XXXL: 8, 15, 21, 28, 34, 41, 48 and 54 cm / 3 1/8",6",8 1/4",11",13 3/8",16 1/8",19" and 21 1/4".
NOTE: bind off for last button hole when only 2 rows remain before neck dec.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 253-308-359 sts (including 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat.
K 3 rows (1st row = WS). Then work as follows (seen from RS): 6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * diagram M.1 (= 17 sts), P 15-14-13 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-9-11 times, diagram M.1 and 6 band sts in garter st. Continue like this.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures approx. 3-5-7 cm / 1 1/8"-2"-2 3/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), dec 1 st in every P-section by P tog the first 2 sts.
Repeat dec every 6th row a total of 14-13-12 times – NOTE: Dec alternately at the end and beg of every P-section.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', beg to bind off for BUTTON HOLES – see explanation above!
After all dec in P-sections, 155-191-227 sts remain on needle and only 1 P st between every M.1-section (piece now measures approx. 31 cm / 12 1/4'').
Continue until piece measures approx. 34-35-36 cm / 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), now inc 1 st in every P-section by making 1 YO after all P sts, on next row (from WS) K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
Repeat inc every 6th row a total of 6-5-4 times – NOTE: Inc alternately before and after all P sts by making 1 YO.
When all inc are done, there are 7-6-5 P sts in every P-section and 197-236-271 sts in total on needle.
When piece measures approx. 48-49-50 cm / 19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), work next row as follows: Work 47-56-64 sts as before (= right front piece), bind off 7-9-11 sts for armhole, work 89-106-121 sts as before (= back piece), bind off 7-9-11 sts for armhole, work the last 47-56-64 sts as before (= left front piece).
Finish each part separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 47-56-64 sts. Then bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side: 2 sts 2-2-4 times and 1 st 4-5-6 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 51-53-55 cm / 20"-21"-21 5/8", slip the outermost 10 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times.
After all bind offs for armhole and neck, 25-33-36 sts remain on shoulder. There is now ½ repetition of diagram M.1 towards the neck in all sizes, there is also ½ repetition towards the armhole in the smallest size.
Continue pattern as before with 1 st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures approx. 67-70-73 cm / 26 3/8"-27½"-28 3/4" - adjust after 1 full repetition of diagram M.1 - bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

BACK PIECE:
= 89-106-121 sts. Continue to bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as on front piece = 73-88-93 sts.
When piece measures approx. 65-68-72 cm / 25½"-26 3/4"-28 3/8" (finish after 1 row from WS when 4 rows remain in diagram M.1), bind off the middle 23-22-21 sts for neck and finish each shoulder (= 25-33-36 sts) separately.
Bind off when the last repetition has been worked.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 53-57-61 sts (including 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat.
K 3 rows (1st row = WS). Work next row as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, P 17-19-21 sts, diagram M.1, P 17-19-21 sts and 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 2-1½-1 cm / 3/4"-½"-3/8" a total of 10-12-15 times = 73-81-91 sts (P the inc sts seen from RS).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures 30-29-27 cm / 11 3/4"-11 3/8"-10 5/8" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6-7-10 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4'' – adjust after 1 full repetition of diagram M.1.
Bind off the remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
NECK EDGE: Pick up approx. 100 to 110 sts around the neck (including sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 3 rows and bind off.
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew in the sleeves. Sew on buttons.
Steam the garment to make it hang nicely.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 3 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (235)

country flag Marjon wrote:

Ik wil beginnen met het linker voorpand. Ik snap niet waarom ik 10st op een hulpdraad moet zetten? Brei ik die niet mee? Terwijl er staat dat je afkant voor de hals bij het begin van iedere naald. Is dat dan de buitenste steek, dus dus op de hulpdraad? Of de eerste steek die op de naald staat? Als ik ze niet meebrei, wat doe ik er dan wel mee?

25.08.2023 - 08:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjon,

Deze steken brei je niet mee en laat je gewoon op een hulpnaald (grote veiligheidsspeld) staan. Als je moet afkanten voor de hals zijn dat de steken ernaast. Op het eind zet je de steken van de hulpdraad weer op een naald en neem je daarnaast steken op rondom de hals om een rand rondom de hals te breien (zie 'afwerking').

28.08.2023 - 07:24

country flag Marjon wrote:

Ik heb 308 steken opgezet. Als ik patroon volg, dan herhaal ik het patroon voor het lijf 10x (2x6st+10x17st+9x14st=308). In patroon staat 9x, maar dan kom ik op een totaal van 277st. Dit zou me wel goed uitkomen, want ik wil eigenlijk een M/L breien. Kan ik de 9x aanhouden en dus het aantal steken wijzigen en daarmee een tussenmaat breien? (En er lijkt dus een fout in het patroon te staan)

04.06.2023 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjon,

Je breit 6 voorbiessteken, dan herhaal je (M1 (17 st) en 14 averecht) = 31 st in totaal 9 keer, dan nog een keer M1 (17 st) en nog 6 voorbiessteken. In totaal kom je dan op 308 steken. Een tussenmaat zou je kunnen breien door in plaats van steeds 14 averecht, minder averechte steken te breien. Maar kijk dan ook even heel goed hoe dit uitkomt bij bijvoorbeeld de schouders en de armsgaten.

07.06.2023 - 11:41

country flag Marion wrote:

Als ik het vest als trui wil breien op een rondbreinaald, is het dan voldoende om middenvoor over de gehele lengte 6 steken averrecht te breien (dus de helft van de voorbies aanhouden)?

05.04.2023 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marion,

Ja, je kunt inderdaad de helft van de voorbies weglaten, want dat is de overlap voor de knoopbies.

12.04.2023 - 20:37

country flag Shubhangi Kundu wrote:

Hello! Could you kindly explain how we go from 56 sts to 33 sts after binding off for neck and armhole for size L/XL? I'm probably not understanding how the binding off works. I understood that [(2×2sts)×2 + (2×1st)×5] = 18 sts are bound off for the armhole and [(2×2sts)×1 + (2×1st)×2] = 8 sts are bound off for the neckline, but I think that is somehow wrong. Please correct me. Thank you!

14.11.2022 - 05:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Shubhangi, On the left front piece you start off with 56 stitches, as you say. On each row from the side you bind off 2 stitches x 2, the 1 stitch x 5 for the armhole (9 stitches bound off). For the neck, you place the 10 stitches towards mid-front on a thread and then bind off on each row from the neck, 2 stitches x 1 and 1 stitch x 2 (10 + 4 stitches). You have a total of 23 stitches either bound off or on a thread. 56 - 23 =33 stitches left. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

14.11.2022 - 06:53

country flag Shubhangi Kundu wrote:

"Then bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side: 2 sts 2-2-4 times and 1 st 4-5-6 times." Could you kindly explain this line to me?

08.11.2022 - 04:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Shubhangi, You are shaping the armholes by binding off at the beginning of each row. Start by binding off 2 stitches at the beginning of the row from both the right and wrong side (4 stitches in total) and then repeat this the correct number of times for your size (e.g. 1 more time in size S/M = 8 stitches bound off). Then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of both the right side and wrong side and, using size S/M, this will be repeated 4 times = another 8 stitches bound off. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

08.11.2022 - 07:36

country flag Pam Dale wrote:

How many stitches are left on the sleeves when you cast off? I’ve modified the sleeves so they are full length and I’ve worked them in the round but a bit unclear when I get to the cap of the sleeve and how many stitches cast off before final cast off

09.07.2021 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pam Dale, the number of stitches at the end of the sleeve will depend on your tension, most important is here that you cast off the number of sts stated for the size + 2 stitches on each side until sleeve measures 40 cm (make sure you have cast off 2 sts the same number of times on each side), adjusting after a whole repeat of M.1 and cast off. Happy knitting!

12.07.2021 - 07:13

country flag Mirja wrote:

Ich habe ein sehr großes Problem. Ich habe die schöne Jacke fast fertig gestrickt und nun reicht die angegebene Wollmenge bei mir nicht aus.( stricke S/M und hatte 500g gekauft, da die Mengenangabe bisher immer bei mir passte). Ich habe daraufhin in dem Shop ( Mondolana) nachbestellt unter Angabe der Dyelot Nr. Die gab es aber nicht mehr und die mir zugeschickte Wolle ist farblich etwas anders. Wo bekomme ich nun noch die Farbe 40 mit Dyelot Nr 839?? Ich kann sonst leider nicht fertig werden.

12.06.2021 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mirja, gerne können Sie einen anderen Laden fragen, oder vielleicht auch in der DROPS Workshop-Gruppe können Sie andere Strickerinnen fragen.

14.06.2021 - 08:44

country flag Marie POUPON wrote:

Bonjour ! J'ai ENFIN terminé ce gilet ! Reste à bloquer à la vapeur ! Merci pour tout ! ;-)

14.02.2021 - 07:33

country flag Nicole wrote:

Ich bin bezüglich der Oberweite und Hüfte bei 50 cm und Taille 44 cm. Kann ich mich während des hochstrickens zunächst an Gr. L, zur Taille hin an Gr S/M und bei der Oberweite wieder an Gr. L orientieren hinsichtlich der Zu- und Abnahmen? Ausserdem kommt mir die Umfangsangabe zu Beginn ( z.B. 59 bei Gr.S/M) recht groß vor, obwohl die Jacke dort doch eng anliegen soll.

10.02.2021 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, am besten messen Sie eine ähnliche Jacke, die Sie gerne haben und vergleichen Sie diese Maßen mit der Skizze - hier lesen Sie mehr - Sicher kann Ihnen noch Ihr DROPS Laden damit weiterhelfen, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.02.2021 - 06:43

country flag Cristina Becker wrote:

Ich habe die Jacke in Gr. S/M Nadelst. 4 " Muskat" begonnen. Umfang viel zu gross. Nun habe ich Nadelst.3 (stricke sehr fest) immer noch zu gross. Wenn ich weniger Maschen nehme stimmt es mit dem Muster nicht. Bin eine erfahrene Strickerin. Hat jemand das schon kommentiert? Waere dankbar fuer Hilfe.

17.07.2020 - 12:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Wenn Sie 21 M x 28 Reihen glatt rechts = 10 x 10 cm bekommen, dann stimmen die Anleitung und damit bekommen Sie die Maßen, die in der Maßskizze gezeigt sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.07.2020 - 14:15