DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 21-39
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-084-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 8120, denim/green:
200-200-250 (250-300) g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTONS NO 521: 5-5-5 (6-6) pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASE TIP (applies to neck line):
Inc by making 1 YO inside 2 edge sts in garter st. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes).
NOTE: Work the outermost st in neck line a little tight so that the edge looks nice

BUTTON HOLES: 1 button hole = Cast off 1 st and make 1 YO on next row over the cast off st.
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JACKET:
Front and back piece is worked in one, sideways from arm to arm.

RIGHT SLEEVE: Loosely cast on 26-28-28 (30-30) sts (= bottom of right sleeve) on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. Work in Garter St - see explanation above. When piece measures 5 cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts. When piece measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm, loosely cast on 27-29-34 (39-42) new sts at beg and end of row for front and back piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts. Continue to work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm from where the sts for front and back piece were cast on (piece measures 26-28-31 (36-41) cm from cast on edge at the bottom of sleeve).
Work next row from RS as follows: K the first 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on needle (= front piece) and slip the remaining 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on a stitch holder (= back piece). Insert a marker in last row, now measure back piece from here.

FRONT PIECE: = 46-49-56 (63-68) sts. Turn piece and cast off the first 6-6-6 (7-7) sts on row for neck. Then dec for neck line towards the neck every cm: 1 st 3 times in total =
37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle.
Work until width of front piece = 12.5-14-15.5 (17-18.5) cm.
Now cast off for 5-5-5 (6-6) button holes evenly on next row – see explanation above, Note the hole at the top are cast off after 2 sts at neck edge. Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Cast off.

BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm from last marker. Put the piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm. Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece on every cm 1 st a total of 3 times - see Inc.tips above. When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m. When all sts are inc for neck work pieces together - see BODY.

BODY: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from back piece on to same needle as left front piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts on needle. Insert a new marker in the piece - now measure piece from here! Work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm. Loosely cast off at beg of the next 2 rows 27-29-34 (39-42) sts in each side = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts remain on needle for left sleeve – now measure piece from here. When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm, dec 1 st in each side, repeat every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30) sts on needle. Loosely cast off when sleeve measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm (piece measures approx. 59-64-71 (82-93) cm from arm to arm).

NECK EDGE:
From RS pick up approx 40 - 50 sts around neck with 2 strands on needles size 5 mm/US 8. K3 rows back and forth, then cast/bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Fold the piece double at the shoulders and sew sleeve and side seams in one in front loop of outermost st to avoid a chunky seam. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.09.2012
No mistake, but we have edited to make pattern easier to understand:

RIGHT SLEEVE: ...
Insert a marker in last row, now measure piece from here.

BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm from last marker.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm. Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece on every cm 1 st a total of 3 times - see Inc.tips above. When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m. When all sts are inc for neck work pieces together - see BODY.
Updated online: 10.03.2015
under BODY (in each side, not in the side):
..... When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm, dec 1 st in each side, repeat every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30).....
Updated online: 31.05.2019
Correction - FRONT PIECE: Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Cast off.
Updated online: 23.03.2021
RIGHT SLEEVE:
... Insert a marker in last row, now measure back piece from here.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (108)

Jiangling Chen wrote:

I love this pattern.

02.05.2013 - 10:51

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Hej! Jag undrar en sak; FRAM- OCH BAKST: Sätt in de 46-49-56 (63-68) m från bakst på samma st som vänster framst = 92-98-112 (126-136) m på st. Hur sätter man alla på samma, varrannan från varje sticka eller hur ska det vara? Tacksam för svar!

23.02.2013 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bakst sätter du ind på vänster sida av vänster framst. På samma sätt som när du hade höger fram och bakst på samma sticka!

12.03.2013 - 10:38

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Hej! Jag undrar en sak; FRAM- OCH BAKST: Sätt in de 46-49-56 (63-68) m från bakst på samma st som vänster framst = 92-98-112 (126-136) m på st. Hur sätter man alla på samma, varrannan från varje sticka eller hur ska det vara? Tacksam för svar!

23.02.2013 - 17:19

country flag Vanessa wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, bei der VORDER-UND RÜCKENTEIL-Anleitung heißt es, dass man für den Ärmel abnehmen muss, aber ich glaube es müsste abketten heißen. (Nach 9-10-11 (12-13) cm auf beiden Seiten je 2 R. 27-29-34 (39-42) M. abn. = 38-40-44 (48-52) M)

26.01.2013 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vanessa, das stimmt genau! Vielen Dank für den Hinweis, wir werden es gleich korrigieren.

27.01.2013 - 16:31

country flag Eva wrote:

Hallo, ich würde gerne diesen Pullover stricken, mag aber Alpaka nicht und habe mich gefragt, ob man ersatzweise statt 2 Fäden Alpaka einen Faden Big Merino nehmen kann. Vielen Dank.

06.11.2012 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Eva, ja das können Sie. Schauen Sie auf unserer Garngruppenübersicht für alle Möglichkeiten.

07.11.2012 - 07:42

country flag Marta wrote:

En las instrucciones comienza diciendo: SACO: Esta palabra no tiene ningún sentido aplicado al diseño, por tanto revisando las intrucciones en portugués he visto que en lugar de SACO: pone CASACO: lo cual en portugués significa CHAQUETA en español. En las instrucciones en español, donde dice SACO: debería decir CHAQUETA:. Parece una tontería pero he perdido un rato pensando que querían decir con ese término.

04.10.2012 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Marta, muy agradecidos por tu comentario y sugerencia. Existen varios términos sinónimos para la misma prenda. También se pudo haber descrito como "campera" o "americana" y no por eso dejan de tener sentido o son incorrectos. Saludos afectuosos!

07.10.2012 - 10:04

country flag Lisa wrote:

Glemte å merke dette som spørsmål, så jeg legger det inn på nytt. Det må være noe galt med denne oppskriften. På venstre forstykke står det ingenting om lengde. Dersom du øker til hals med en gang blir det ulikt fra høyre forstykke. Bakstykke tilsvarer ikke forstykkenes lengde (minus list). Dette må dere forklare.

18.09.2012 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Det blir lagt ut en endring på denne opsk snart, med litt enklere forklaring på venstre forstk.

27.09.2012 - 08:53

country flag Lisa wrote:

Det må være noe galt med denne oppskriften. På venstre forstykke står det ingenting om lengde. Dersom du øker til hals med en gang blir det ulikt fra høyre forstykke. Bakstykke tilsvarer ikke forstykkenes lengde (minus list). Dette må dere forklare.

18.09.2012 - 09:59

country flag Nina Dahl wrote:

Ligesom Connie og Lea så kunne jeg også godt bruge en uddybende forklaring til venstre forstykke...

14.09.2012 - 10:33

DROPS Design answered:

Her kommer forklaringen: Slå 37-40-47 (53-58) m løst op på p 5 med 2 tråde Alpaca. Strik ret på hver p til arb måler 4-4,5-5-(5,5-6) cm. Nu tages der 1 m ud til halsudskæring i venstre side af arb totalt 3 gange – SE UDTAGNINGSTIPS. Når arb måler 6-6,5-7 (7,5-8) cm slåes der 6-6-6-(7-7) m op i venstre side = 46-49-56 (63-68)m. Når alle m er taget ud til halsen strikkes delene sammen

25.09.2012 - 14:54

country flag Connie wrote:

Hej. Har heller ikke forstået hvordan man gør med venstre forstykke? Hvornår starter indtagningen? Og skal man slå nye masker op dér hvor man lukkede mod hals på højre forstykke?

09.09.2012 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Se forklaringen ovenfor og se rettelse!

13.12.2012 - 11:13