DROPS Baby / 21 / 34

Alladin by DROPS Design

Knitted hat for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-085-by
Yarn group A
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HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head circumference in cm:
40/42-42/44-44/46 (48/50-50/52) / 16''-17''-18'' (19''-20'')

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 607m, eco light brown: 50 g for all sizes

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. Inc 1 st before and after st with marker by making 1 YO. On next round P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS. Dec 1 st on each side of st with marker. Beg 1 st before st with marker. Slip 1 st on a cable needle behind the piece, slip 1 st (= st with marker), K next st and st on cable needle tog, psso.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 117-123-129 (135-141) sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Alpaca. K 8 rows (1st row = RS).
Insert 7 markers in piece from RS as follows:
1st marker in 2nd st on needle,
2nd marker in 25th-26th-27th (28th-29th) st,
3rd marker in 48th-50th-52nd (54th-56th) st,
4th marker in 59th-62nd-65th (68th-71st) st,
5th marker in 70th-74th-78th (82nd-86th) st,
6th marker in 93rd-98th-103rd (108th-113th) st, and the 7th marker in the next to last st on the needle.
Continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row beg to inc and dec - Read INCREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP above - on every other row as follows:
Inc 1 st after 1st marker.
Dec 1 st on each side of 2nd marker.
Inc 1 st on each side of 3rd marker.
Dec 1 st on each side of 4th marker.
Inc 1 st on each side of 5th marker.
Dec 1 st on each side of 6th marker.
Inc 1 st before 7th marker.
Continue to inc and dec from RS like this on every other row a total of 6 times. Then dec on every other row from RS on each side of the 2nd, 4th and 6th marker until 15 sts remain on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-16 (16-17) cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4" (6 1/4"-6 3/4") from the bottom tip at the 2nd or 6th marker = ear flap.
Work next row from RS as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, K 9, K 2 tog, K 1 = 13 sts. Repeat dec in each side on every row (from WS P the 2 sts before and after edge st tog) until 3 sts remain, bind off and pull thread trough sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the hat tog mid back inside 1 edge st. The middle of the 3 whole tips on cast on edge goes down to the forehead at the front.

TIES:
Cast on 4 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. Work as follows: * K 1, place yarn in front of piece (towards you), slip 1 st as if to P, place yarn behind piece (from you) *, repeat from *-* on more time and on all rows.
This results in a round ribbon. Bind off when the tie measures approx. 20-22-24 (26-28) cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½" (10 1/4"-11"). Knit a similar tie. Sew one tie at the bottom of each tip on ear flap on each side.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (187)

Malene Wiborg 19.09.2017 - 12:55:

Er det meningen hue skal strikkes I dobbelt garn? Jeg kan simpelthen ikke få strikkefastheden til at passe. På pind str. 3,5 får jeg 28 masker på 10 cm. Det lader ikke til blive pænt hvis jeg går endnu en pinde str. op.

DROPS Design 19.09.2017 kl. 14:58:

Hei Marlene. På denne oppskriften skal det strikkes med 1 tråd og strikkefastheten er: DROPS PINDE nr 2,5 - eller det p.nr du skal bruge for at få 26 m x 34 p glatstrik på 10 x 10 cm. God Fornøyelse!

Mariandeel 08.09.2017 - 16:17:

Tere, kas esimesed 8 rida tuleb kududa rispkoes?

Solveig Bodal 02.05.2017 - 23:34:

Spørsmål del 2 (om de siste fellerundene): Skal det fortsettes med felling på samme måte ved 2., 4. og 6. merkemaske på retten, slik at det blir en jevn "strek" hele veien oppover? Stemmer det at det kun skal felles ved kantmaskene på sidene av arbeidet, og ikke ved 2., 4. og 6. merkemaske på vrangen?

DROPS Design 11.05.2017 kl. 14:43:

Hei Solveig. Vedr. de siste fellerundene så strikkes de som forklart i oppskriften: Neste p strikkes slik fra retten: 1 r, 2 r sammen, 9 r, 2 r sammen, 1 r = 13 m. Gjenta fellingen i hver side på hver p (fra vrangen strikkes de 2 m før og etter kantm vrang sammen) til det er 3 m igjen, fell av og trekke tråden gjennom m. God fornøyelse!

Solveig Bodal 02.05.2017 - 23:31:

Spørsmål del 1: Strikker luen i str. 1/3 mnd. Jeg har kommet til dit hvor arb. måler 15 cm fra nederst øreklaffene. Strikker luen på rundpinne. Skal det felles slik at det er totalt 15 m på pinnen, eller er det snakk om at disse 15 m er på hver del av luen (med én kantmaske/merkemaske og maskene mellom) og at en sitter igjen med totalt 60 m på alle pinner/rundpinne?

DROPS Design 11.05.2017 kl. 14:41:

Hei Solveig. Når arb måler ca 15 cm (str 1/3 mnd) skal du ha 15 masker igjen på (rund)pinnen (ikke 60 masker). Deretter felles det på hver pinne til det er 3 masker igjen. God fornøyelse!

Sabine 10.04.2017 - 15:37:

Ich habe die Mütze mit der Wolle "cool wool" mit Nadelstärke 3 gestrickt und die Größe gewählt, die zum Kopfumfang meines Sohnes passt. Es hat alles gepasst. Die Videoanleitungen sind super und sehr hilfreich. Danke dafür !

Eva 13.03.2017 - 18:35:

Könnte man die Mütze auch in Runden stricken? Dann würde man das Zusammennähen sparen ☺ und es gäbe keine Naht, die bei einem Baby im Liegen drücken könnte.

DROPS Design 14.03.2017 kl. 09:31:

Liebe Eva, so können Sie auch stricken, aber beachten Sie nur, die Anleitung wurde geschrieben für eine Mütze, die hin und zurück gestrickt wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Uli M 07.12.2016 - 13:01:

Liebes Drops-Team, in der Anleitung steht, man soll die ersten 8 R. rechts stricken, auf dem Foto sieht es aber so aus, als muesse man die ersten Reihen in Krausrippen stricken. Was ist nun richtig?

DROPS Design 07.12.2016 kl. 13:12:

Liebe Ulli, wenn Sie die ersten 8 Reihen rechts stricken, bekommen Sie Krausrippe = 4 Krausrippe (1 Krausrippe = 2 R kraus re = 2 R re). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bettina Mevissen 18.11.2016 - 15:21:

Ich verstehe das Strickmuster leider überhaupt nicht. Ich habe zwar generell den Tipp zum Abnehmen verstanden, also wie diese Abnahme zu erfolgen hat, verstehe aber nicht, wie das z.B. bei der 2. Markierung mit 3 aufeinander folgenden markierten Maschen (25.-26.-27. M.)funktionieren soll... Ich würde diese Mütze wirklich gerne stricken. Hoffe, dass Sie es mir verständlicher erklären können... LG. Bettina Mevissen

DROPS Design 18.11.2016 kl. 17:28:

Liebe Frau Mevissen, die 2. Markierung wird in einem verschiedenen Maschen je nach der Größe eingezogen, dh in die 25. Masche in der 1. Größe, in die 26. Masche in der 2. Größe usw. Wenn sie die 1. Größe stricken, werden Sie dann 1 Maschen auf beiden Seiten der markierten Maschen (= der 25. Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Nele 14.11.2016 - 17:42:

Kahjuks ei vasta muster tõesti ka minu kogemusel suurusele. Kudusin peaümbermõõdule 49cm (1a8k), lõin 141 silmust ja kasvatasin 6 korra asemel 12 korda. Sellisena sai müts täpselt paras. Lõng Alpaca, vardad 2,5.

Kristbjörg Olsen 11.11.2016 - 16:31:

Í uppskriftinni á íslensku er sagt "Fellið síðan af hvoru megin við 2., 4. og 6. prjónamerki í hverri umf " þetta ætti að vera í annarri hverri umf. Kveðja, Kristbjörg

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