DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little William

Set of knitted pants and jumper with raglan and stripes for baby and children in DROPS Lima

DROPS Baby 21-30
DROPS design: Pattern no LI-001-by
Yarn group B
--------------------------------------------------------
JUMPER:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-64 (70-76) cm / 19 3/4"-22"-25 1/4" (27½"-30")
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'')

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Color no 5610, brown: 200-200-200 (250-250) g
Color no 5310, light brown: 50 g all sizes

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 (for edges).

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS LIGHT, #503: 3 pieces
-------------------------------------------------------

PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: 48-50-52 (56-58) cm / 19"-19 3/4"-20½" (22"-22 3/4")
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4")

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Color no 5610, brown: 150-150-150 (200-200) g
Color no 5310, light brown: 50 g all sizes

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 4.5 mm/ US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 3.5 mm/ US 4 (for rib).

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JUMPER:

RIB: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.

STRIPES-A:
2 rounds light brown, 3 rounds brown, 3 rounds light brown, 2 rounds brown, 1 round light brown, 3 rounds brown, 4 rounds light brown, 1 round brown, 2 rounds light brown.

DECREASE TIP FOR RAGLAN WITHOUT BUTTON BAND:
K 2 tog, * Work until 3 sts remain before next marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* at the next 2 markers, work until 4 sts remain on needle, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2.

DECREASE TIP FOR RAGLAN WITH BUTTON BAND:
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS: Work 4 band sts in garter st, K 2 tog, * Work until 3 sts remain before next marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* at the next 2 markers, work until 6 sts remain on needle, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, work 4 band sts in garter st.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS: Work 4 band sts in garter st, P 2 tog, * Work until 3 sts remain before next marker, P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), P 2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* at the next 2 markers, work until 6 sts remain on needle, P 2 twisted tog, work 4 band sts in garter st. NOTE: Make sure that the sts lay in the correct direction from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTON HOLES: Bind off for button holes on the raglan band which is on the sleeve part – assess if this is needed in the larger sizes. Make hole as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1. Bind off for button holes when band measures:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 5 and 8 cm / 3/4", 2" and 3 1/8''
Size 6/9 months: 3, 6 and 9 cm / 1 1/8", 2 3/8" and 3½''
Size 12/18 months: 3, 7 and 10 cm / 1 1/8", 2 3/4" and 4"
Size 2 years: 3, 7 and 11 cm / 1 1/8", 2 3/4" and 4 3/8"
Size 3/4 years: 4, 8 and 12 cm / 1½", 3 1/8" and 4¾''
--------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 102-114-126 (138-150) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with brown Lima. K1 round, then continue with RIB for 3 cm / 1 1/8'' - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and K 1 round. Work next round as follows: Insert a marker in the 1st st (= beg of round), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts, insert a marker in next st (= mid in the side), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts.
Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 14-15-18 (21-23) cm / 5½"-6"-7" (8 1/4"-9"), work STRIPES - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-8'' (9''-9¾''), on next round bind off 5 sts in each side for armholes (= st with marker + 2 sts on each side of this) = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with brown Lima. K 1 round, continue with rib for 3 cm / 1 1/8''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7, continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker in the 1st st on round, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 2 sts mid under sleeve on each side of marker, repeat inc on every 3-2-3 (2.5-2.5) cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-1 1/8" (7/8"-7/8") a total of 4-6-5 (7-9) times = 38-42-46 (50-54) sts. When piece measures 15-17-18 (23-27) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7" (9"-10 5/8") work STRIPES. When piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29) cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8" (9 3/4"-11 3/8") (adjust so that same no stripes has been worked as on body), on next round bind off 5 sts mid under sleeve = 33-37-41 (45-49) sts.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 158-178-198 (218-238) sts. Insert a marker in every transition between body and sleeves.
Then continue the piece with or without button holes – see explanation below.

YOKE WITH BUTTONS:
Then the piece is worked back and forth from right "raglan seam" at the front. Cast on 4 extra sts on the front piece part (= button band) = 162-182-202 (222-242) sts.
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Continue in stockinette st and with stripes as well as 4 sts in GARTER ST at beg and end of row (for button band). At the same time dec for raglan – see DECREASE TIP – dec on every other row: 11-11-12 (12-13) times and then on every row: 1-3-4 (6-7) times. NOTE: Also bind off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above. At the same time when piece measures 23-25-29 (32-35) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11 3/8" (12½"-13 3/4"), slip the middle 13-13-13 (15-15) sts in the front on a stitch holder for neck and work each side separate. Continue to bind off towards the neck on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-2 (3-3) times. After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, a total of 45-49-53 (53-57) sts remain on needle.

YOKE WITHOUT BUTTONS:
Then work in the round. Continue in stockinette st and with stripes. At the same time dec for raglan – see DECREASE TIP – dec on every other row: 11-11-12 (12-13) times and then on every row: 1-3-4 (6-7) times. At the same time when piece measures 23-25-29 (32-35) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11 3/8" (12½"-13 3/4"), slip the middle 13-13-13 (15-15) sts on a stitch holder for neck and continue back and forth on needle. Continue to cast off towards the neck in beg of every row each side: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-2 (3-3) times. After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, 41-45-49 (49-53) sts remain on needle.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 23 to 27 sts at the front of neck (including sts on stitch holder) with brown = 68 to 84 sts. Slip all sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 – work 1 round in stockinette st while at the same time dec/inc sts evenly to 64-76 sts. Work rib K 2/P 2 for 8 cm / 3 1/8'', loosely bind off – fold the edge double towards WS and fasten with neat stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves. If button band has been worked: Place button bands on top of each other with the button holes part at the top and fasten in the bottom edge from WS. Sew on buttons.
_____________________________________________________________________

PANTS:

STRIPES-A:
3 rounds brown, 3 rounds light brown, 5 rounds brown, 5 rounds light brown, 7 rounds brown, 7 rounds light brown.

STRIPES-B:
4 rounds brown, 2 rounds light brown, 4 rounds brown, 4 rounds light brown, 4 rounds brown, 1 round light brown, 1 round brown, 1 round light brown, 4 rounds brown, 3 rounds light brown, 1 round brown, 1 round light brown, 2 round brown.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
--------------------------------------------------------

PANTS:

Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 108-112-116 (128-132) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm/ US 4 with brown. Work rib = K 2/P 2 in STRIPES-A - see explanation above. Work until piece measures 8-9-9 (10-10) cm / 3 1/8"-3½"-3½" (4"-4"). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work in stockinette st while at the same time dec to 96-100-104 (112-116) sts evenly on round. Insert a marker in the middle st at the front and a marker in the middle st at the back of pants (= 47-49-51 (55-57) sts between sts with markers). Continue in the round in stockinette st - REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE - When piece measures 11-13-14 (16-17) cm / 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-5½" (6 1/4"-6 3/4"), inc 1 st on each side of the 3 middle sts in the back - inc by picking up st from previous round and K this st. Repeat inc on every other round a total of 9-9-9 (10-10) times = 114-118-122 (132-136) sts. After all inc the piece measures approx. 18-20-21 (23-24) cm / 7"-8"-8 1/4" (9"-9½"). On next round bind off the 3 middle sts at the front and the 3 middle sts at the back (i.e. st with marker and 1 st on each side of this st) and finish each leg separately. Slip the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for one leg on a stitch holder and the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for the other leg on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7.

LEG:
Continue the leg in stockinette st in the round – insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When the leg measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm / 3/4''-3/4''-3/4'' (1 1/8''-1 1/8''), dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2-3-3½ (4-5½) cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/4" (1½"-2 1/4") a total of 5 times = 44-46-48 (53-55) sts.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm/ US 4 when leg measures 28-34-37 (43-49) cm / 11"-13 3/8"-14½" (17"-19 1/4"). Work 1 round in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 48-48-54 (54-60) sts. Then work rib: K 3/P 3 in the round over all sts in STRIPES-B – see explanation above. When the leg measures 18-22-25 (28-35) cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (11"-13 3/4") (the pants should measure 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4") from the waist), LOOSELY bind off with K over K and P over P. Work the other leg the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the opening between the legs.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.02.2012
BODY:...insert a marker in the 1st st (= beg of round), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts, insert a marker in next st (= mid in the side), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts.
Updated online: 03.02.2014
PANTS:
Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 108-112-116 (128-132) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with brown. .....Continue in the round in stocking st - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION - When piece measures 11-13-14 (16-17) cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 3 middle sts in the back - inc by picking up st from previous round and K this st.
Updated online: 18.11.2020
Explanation for stripes updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 21-30

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Maite wrote:

Al leer el patrón aparece en el apartado OJALES : “Rem” para ojales y en el apartado cuerpo: rem 5 pta en cada lado para la sisa. Qué significa Rem?\r\nGracias

21.03.2024 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maite, rem = rematar o cerrar puntos. Como cuando cierras para terminar la prenda.

24.03.2024 - 22:39

country flag Alana wrote:

I am knitting the jumper and have got stuck in the yoke section (without buttons). Casting off towards the neck, what do you mean by 2st 1 time and 1st 2 times? Some clarification would be great! And for how many rows/ to what length? Just continue until there are 45 st left?

04.12.2022 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alana, These decreases are for the neck (after placing the mid-front stitches on a thread). You decrease, working back and forth, first 2 stitches on each side of the neck one time, work 1 row without decreasing, then 1 stitch on each side of the neck on each of the next 2 rows. A total of 8 stitches decreased. This leaves you with 45 stitches. Happy knitting!

05.12.2022 - 06:58

country flag Helle Pedersen wrote:

Hej ang. trøjen der mangler indtagning vejledning til den side man syr knappen på

25.04.2022 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. Du feller av i knappestolpen i "raglanlinjen" / der du har lagt opp ekstra masker. Les avsnittet: BÆRESTK MED KNAPP i oppskriften og henvisningene i det avsnittet. mvh DROPS Design

25.04.2022 - 14:27

country flag Rikke wrote:

Ang buksen. Først står det: Når benet måler 28-34-37 (43-49) cm byttes det til settp 3,5…. Videre står det: Når benet måler 18-22-25 (28-35) cm (buksen skal da måle 36-42-46 (52-59) cm fra livet) Det går jo ikke?

10.02.2022 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Rikke. Her burde det stå:.....Når buksen måler 28-34-37 (43-49) cm byttes det til settp 3,5.... og ikke benet. Da stemmer det også med målskissen til oppskriften. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS Design

14.02.2022 - 10:38

country flag Ranveig Gruner wrote:

Står helt fast,har kommet der hals er ferdig felt der det var 13 masker tatt av,men jeg skjønner ikke hvor jeg skal ta opp di 27 masker,er det på begge sider der di 13 maskene er tatt av?og skal det virkelig være bare 49 masker igjen når man begynner og strikke halsen?har problemer der på grunn av at jeg har over 100 nå når jeg er ferdig felt hals og bare 3felling på armene?

04.05.2021 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ranveig. Vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan, men hvilken størrelse strikker du? Og strikker du halskant med eller uten knapp? mvh DROPS design

10.05.2021 - 08:30

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour,j’essaie de comprendre les diminutions raglan sans boutonnage.C’est écrit 2 mailles ensemble que je fais au début du tour,puis je fais 2 diminutions par marqueur et une dernière à 4 mailles de la fin du tour?Ça fait 6 diminutions,est-ce que j’ai bien compris? Merci 🙏

30.03.2021 - 03:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, vous diminuez 2 mailles pour chaque de 4 raglans (8 mailles diminuees par tour). Rappelez-vous que le debut du tour (la ou vous commencez les DIMINUTIONS RAGLAN SANS BORDURE DE BOUTONNAGE) se trouve une maille apres le premier marqueur. Bon tricot!

30.03.2021 - 12:09

country flag Gaylene Newton wrote:

Re pants pattern, at point to insert marker in middle st front & back of pants denotes placing them at 47sts between...with 96 sts should this not be 48? Should there then be extra sts at beginning of round? Mathematically this doesn’t add up...where exactly do you start counting sts to find a 47st divide? Thanks

01.02.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Newton, you should insert the marker in the middle stitch of mid front + mid back, so that you will have: 47 sts, 1 st with marker, 47 sts, 1 st with marker = 96 sts. Happy knitting!

02.02.2021 - 09:59

country flag Nicole wrote:

Jag förstår inte från steget där man ska lägga upp mittersta 13 maskorna. Jag. har jämt antal i mellan minskningar till ranglan. Gör det något att den är lite förskjuten. Verkar bli rätt antal när jag räknar ändå. Sen undrar jag om det inte blir en liten öppning när man bara minskar på "bakstycket" och varför minskar man när man sen ska plocka upp maskor. Förstår inte slutet.

19.11.2020 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nicole. Nej det kommer inte att synas att halsen blir lite förskjuten. Du avmaskar vid halsen för att skapa en rund halsringning (eftersom du gör det på vartannat varv och inte allt på en gång), det är därför du maskar av för att sedan plocka upp maskor igen. Mvh DROPS Design

20.11.2020 - 11:02

country flag Nicole wrote:

Det står att man ska sätta de mittersta 13 på en tråd, men jag har totalt 18 mellan minskningarna. Gör det något att det är ojämnt? med 2 på ena. sidan och 3 på andra? Sen undrar jag också om det inte bli några hål eftersom man stickar några maskor 3 varv mer än dom man har satt på tråd. Varför minskar man om man ändå ska plocka upp sen? Får inte alls ihop de sista stegen från att man ska börja sätta 13 maskor på en tråd.

17.11.2020 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nicole. Nej det ska inte bli några hål, om du stickar utan knapp så börjar du att att sticka arbetet fram och tillbaka istället för runt efter att du satt de 13 maskorna på 1 tråd. Efter det så avmaskar du vid halsen för att skapa en rundare halsringning. Efter det plockar du upp maskor för att sticka halskanten som senare viks dubbel. Mvh DROPS Design

20.11.2020 - 10:58

country flag Naja wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment rajouter sur mes aiguilles circulaires les manches qui sont aussi tricotées en rond, : "Reprendre les manches sur la même aiguille circulaire que le dos et le devant, au-dessus des mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures = 158-178-198 (218-238) m. Placer un marqueur à chaque transition entre le dos/devant et les manches. " et aussi quelle rayure je dois utiliser pour le pull sans boutons la A ou la C? Merci

28.08.2020 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Naja, cette vidéo montre comment placer les mailles des manches pour tricoter l'empiècement. On tricote les rayures-A à la fin du dos/devant et à la fin des manches et on les continue sur l'empiècement (mention manquante ajoutée, merci). Bon tricot!

31.08.2020 - 08:39