DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Little Wizard

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan in ”Fabel” and ”Delight”. Size 3 - 12 years.

DROPS Children 22-34
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-001-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-300 g colour no 522p, turquoise/blue
And use: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio:
150-200-200-250-300 g colour no 04, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Delight and 1 thread Fabel = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of P 2, K 2, P 2 (= 6 sts) in all transitions between body and sleeves, i.e. 8 dec per round.
Dec as follows (from RS): Work until 5 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, P 2, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), P 2, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 128-136-144-152-160 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with 1 thread Fabel and 1 thread Delight. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work next round as follows: Work the first 50-54-58-62-66 sts in stockings st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-8-8-8 sts evenly (= 44-48-50-54-58 sts in stocking st), work the next 14 sts in rib as before, then work 50-54-58-62-66 sts in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-8-8-8 sts evenly (= 44-48-50-54-58 sts in stocking st), work the last 14 sts in rib as before. There are now 116-124-128-136-144 sts on needle. Continue to work in stocking st and rib in the sides. When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 14 rib sts in each side (= 4 sts inc), work these sts in stocking st. Repeat inc when piece measures 18-20-22-24-26 cm = 124-132-136-144-152 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 26-29-32-35-38 cm, cast off the middle 8 rib sts in each side for armholes (= K 1, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 1) = 108-116-120-128-136 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 32-36-36-40-40 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with 1 thread Fabel and 1 thread Delight. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Continue to work as follows: 18-22-22-26-26 sts in stocking st and work the last 14 sts in rib as before. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of rib sts, work the inc sts in stocking st. Repeat inc every 3-3½-3-3½-3 cm a total of 7-7-9-9-11 times = 46-50-54-58-62 sts. When piece measures 30-34-37-41-44 cm, cast off the middle 8 rib sts under sleeve (i.e. K 1, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 1) = 38-42-46-50-54 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 184-200-212-228-244 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue with P 2, K 2, P 2 in all transitions between body and sleeves, work the other sts in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME on 4th-2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd round dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Repeat dec every other round a total of 13-15-16-18-19 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-39-42-45-48 cm mid front, slip the middle 14-14-14-14-16 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Then continue back and forth on needle – at the same time cast off at beg of every row in each side towards neck: 1 st 2 times. After all dec for raglan and cast offs for neck, 62-62-66-66-72 sts remain on needle.

NECK:
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Knit up approx. 20 to 22 sts at the front of neck (incl sts on stitch holder) = 82 to 94 sts. Work 1 round with K over K and rib over rib – at the same time adjust no of sts so that there are 6 sts in stocking st over each sleeve, 26-26-30-30-34 sts over front piece and 18-18-22-22-26 sts over back piece and 6 raglan sts as before in all transitions between body and sleeves. There are now 80-80-88-88-96 sts on needle.
Continue with rib = K 2/P 2 over all sts – continue raglan sts in P 2, K 2, P 2, the other sts should now fit the rib. When neck measures approx. 5-6-7-8-9 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Márcia wrote:

Olá, Tenho um projeto iniciado e não sei como dar prosseguimento. Como devo calcular os aumentos para as mangas. Tenho 40 pontos de canelado para o punho e preciso aumentar para chegar a 80 pontos e ficar com (30 de circunferência) e 35cm para a parte de baixo da manga para iniciar a manga raglan. Agradeço antecipadamente. Márcia

16.08.2021 - 03:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Os aumentos para as mangas são feitos de cada lado do canelado a cada 3 centímetros num total de 7 aumentos para ter 62 pontos. Se quer ter 80 pontos deve diminuir o espaço entre os aumentos. Por exemplo, fazer aumentos a cada 2 centímetros (mas é só uma sugestão) num total de 10 vezes. Dica: confira a altura para obter os 35 cm antes de iniciar a manga raglan. Bons tricôs!

16.08.2021 - 10:59

country flag Jorunn wrote:

Det står i oppskriften at 3 /4 år skal være mellom 98 og 104 cm. Kan det være riktig. Virker veldig stort. Jeg har strikket med rett strikkefasthet og får bare ca. 65 cm

29.06.2021 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jorunn, det er barnets størrelse (som det står i købekläder). Du finde målene i måttskissen nederst i mønsteret :)

30.06.2021 - 14:47

country flag Eloïse wrote:

Bonjour, En taille 5-6 ans, je suis à l'étape de l'encolure et je me pose une question. Arrivé à 39cm de hauteur, j'ai 120m. J'ai mis 14m en attente pour le col et je continue en aller retour. Il me reste à cette étape encore 10 rangs à faire pour terminer les diminutions du raglan. Est-ce que je dois bien rabattre 2 mailles au début de chaque rang ? Si oui, ces diminutions vont "empiéter" sur le raglan, est-ce normal ? Merci pour votre aide ! Eloïse

04.06.2020 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Eloïse, dans ce modèle, on met (en taille 5/6 ans) les 14 m centrales en attente puis on continue en allers et retours, les augmentations du raglan continuent comme avant sur l'endroit, mais en même temps, vous rabattrez 2 fois 1 maille de chaque côté pour l'encolure, ce qui va donc prendre 2 rangs (1 sur l'endroit et 1 sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

05.06.2020 - 07:34

country flag Carin Jonsson wrote:

Jag har köpt Drops garn enligt beskrivning för att sticka denna tröja men färgen stämmer inte alls med bilderna. Min tröja blir väldigt mörk blå med lite ljusa meleringar. På bilden är tröjan ljusblå/himmelsblå. Jag är jättebesviken! Har det blivit fel i beskrivningen??? Om jag vetat detta skulle jag köpt en annan färg på Delight-garnet. Vad ska jag göra?

16.02.2020 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carin, jo det er de farver som er brugt i blusen. Meleringerne kan variere efter hvilke farver som strikkes sammen. Men hvis du hellere vil have en lysere bluse, så er jeg sikker på at du kan bytte farverne ud. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2020 - 10:39

country flag I.Meinen wrote:

Prachtig truitje, jammer dat alles is beschreven voor een rondbrei naald . Ik ga het proberen , hoop dat het gaat lukken deze manier van breien. Dank u voor het patroon.

12.11.2017 - 16:17

country flag Marion wrote:

Is het mogelijk om de patronen ook leesbaar te maken voor mensen die niet rondbreinaalden willen gebruiken? Nu moet ik steeds het hele patroon proberen te doorgronden en herschrijven voor gewone naalden. Waarschijnlijk is dat voor jullie gesneden koek...

06.01.2017 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marion. Wij hebben niet de ressources om patronen te herschrijven naar individuele wensen. Wil je één van onze gratis patroon aanpassen, dan kan je het zelf doen. Je kan eventueel deze les gebruiken ter ondersteuning

09.01.2017 - 15:05

country flag Wenda Beeren wrote:

In de beschrijving voor het lijf komen de aangegeven cm. voor het afkanten van de armsgaten niet overeen met de maten verderop bij het (tel)patroon.

29.05.2015 - 14:18

country flag Birthe Mikkelsen wrote:

Fantastisk opskrift (obs. brugte kun 8 ngl. til st.12 år) Hvad skal jeg øge med, hvis jeg vil strikke blusen i st small ??? Findes der evt. en opskrift magen til til voksne ? Mvh.: Birthe

18.11.2013 - 10:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birthe. Tak for det. Vi kan desvaerre ikke hjaelpe med at lave opskriften större (du kan pröve med strikkefastheden og faa evt hjaelp i din butik). Men vi har ogsaa flere modeller i voksenstörrelse med raglan. Du kan söge paa et lignende mönster og saa evt tilpasse mönstret fra dette mönster i det andet. God fornöjelse.

18.11.2013 - 18:06

country flag Sacha wrote:

Hej, jeg prøver at strikke den i str 5år. Har nu trævlet op 3gange da den bliver for lille. Er gået en pind str op. Og med 192 masker. Jeg strikker ikke stramt, markerne glider fint på pinden. Hvad kan jeg have gjort forkert?

06.03.2012 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hvis du begynder med at strikke en lille strikkeprøve og får 18m på 10 cm, så får du nøjagtig de mål som står nederst i måleskitsen. Se hvilke mål/størrelse som passer dit barn. God fornøjelse!

08.03.2012 - 10:32

country flag Sascha wrote:

Kan denne strikkes med to tråde af drops fabel? Eller skal det være som beskrevet i opskriften for at blive pænt?

13.02.2012 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Jo da Fabel og Delight hører til samme garngruppe A, kan du strikke med 2 tråde Fabel A.

29.02.2012 - 10:46