DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 22-14
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-002-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450-500 g colour no 13, red/orange/grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 19 sts x 38 rows in garter st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS Wood buttons coconut, no 516: 6-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

BANDS:
Work band sts K on all rows (= garter st) but slip first st as if to K at beg of every row from mid front.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right band. 1 BUTTON HOLE = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE 3/4 years: 2, 10, 17, 25 and 32 cm
SIZE 5/6 years: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm
SIZE 7/8 years: 2, 10, 17, 25, 32 and 40 cm
SIZE 9/10 years: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37 and 44 cm
SIZE 11/12 years: 2, 10, 17, 25, 32, 40 and 48 cm
NOTE: Cast off 1 button hole on neck edge (piece will then measure approx. 40-44-48-52-56 cm).

DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows in every transition between sleeve and body (beg 3 sts before marker): K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 162-174-186-198-210 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 threads Delight. P 1 row from WS, then work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts - see explanation above, * K 2, P 4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 5 band sts - see explanation above. Continue like this for 4 cm – AT THE SAME TIME after 2 cm, beg cast offs for BUTTON HOLES on right band -see explanation above! When rib measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm, K 1 row from RS while at the same time dec 20-24-24-28-32 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 142-150-162-170-178 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 38-40-43-45-47 sts in from each side (= 66-70-76-80-84 sts between markers on back piece).
Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers by K 2 tog from RS. Repeat dec every 5-5-6-6-7 cm a total of 4 times = 126-134-146-154-162 sts. When piece measures approx. 29-32-35-38-41 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from WS), switch to circular needle size 4 mm. K 3 rows over all sts. On next row cast off 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 4 sts on each side of markers) = 110-118-130-138-146 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 36-36-42-42-42 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 2 threads Delight. K 1 round, continue in rib = K 2/P 4 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and continue in stocking st – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round dec 4-2-4-2-0 sts evenly = 32-34-38-40-42 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 3½-4-4½-5-5 cm a total of 7-7-7-7-8 times = 46-48-52-54-58 sts. When piece measures 30-33-37-40-44 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round, then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 4 sts on each side of marker) = 38-40-44-46-50 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 186-198-218-230-246 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in garter st (work 1st row K from WS) – AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Repeat dec every 4th row a total of 9-10-9-10-10 times and then every other row: 4-4-7-7-9 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 39-43-47-51-55 cm, slip the 10-10-12-12-12 outermost sts in each side towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Then cast off at beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times in each side. After all dec for raglan and cast offs for neck, 50-54-54-58-58 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 44-48-52-56-60 cm up to shoulder. Continue with neck edge.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up approx. 16 to 20 sts on each side of neck (incl sts on stitch holder) = approx. 82 to 98 sts in total. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 66-72-72-78-84 sts. Continue to work rib as follows (1st row = WS): 5 band sts as before, * P 2, K 4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P 2 and 5 band sts as before (from RS there are 5 band sts and 2 K sts in each side towards mid front). After 1 cm cast off for 1 button hole over the other holes on right band. When rib measures 2-2-3-3-3 cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Madeleine Ducharme wrote:

Après les 39cm à l’empiecement on dit mettre en attente 10 mailles de chaque côté mais je ne sais pas où. \r\nJe sais que ce n’est pas au début du rang. Merci de m’aider à terminer ce beau petit gilet.

04.01.2024 - 04:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ducharme, ce sont les mailles de l'encolure que l'on va mettre en attente et que l'on reprendra ensuite pour le col. Autrement dit, tricotez sur l'endroit ainsi: tricotez les 10 premières mailles et mettez les en attente, tricotez jusqu'à la fin du rang comme avant, tournez, tricotez les 10 premières mailles sur l'envers et mettez les en attente, terminez le rang comme avant. Rabattez maintenant au début de chaque rang de chaque côté pour l'encolure comme indiqué pour la taille (2 mailles au début des 4 rangs suivants = 2 x 2 m de chaque côté) et 1 maille au début des 4 rangs suivants (2 x 1 m de chaque côté). Bon tricot!

04.01.2024 - 08:39

country flag Anna Benedetta Pafumi wrote:

Ho eseguito mod Firefly ma col raglan non corrispondono le dim ,col rimane maglie. Ho 246 m,dim 112 in tutto,con rimanenti 58 maglie.A me rimangono134.dove sbaglio.grazie aspetto con ansia la vostra risposta.

10.02.2023 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna Benedetta, dalle 246 maglie deve diminuire 152 maglie per il raglan (8 diminuzioni per 9 volte), poi 12 maglie per lato vengono messe in sospeso e poi ancora 6 diminuzioni per lato per il collo, per cui 246-152-24-12 = 58 maglie. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2023 - 23:52

country flag Wilhelmina wrote:

Hallo, ik brei DROPS design: Model nr. DE-002-bn. Dit patroon moet ik met een dubbele draad breien. De bolletjes beginnen met een andere kleur moet ik steeds twee dezelfde bolletjes of gedeelten van bolletjes van dezelfde kleur bij elkaar zoeken? Of is het de bedoeling dat die 2 draden van verschillen kleuren zijn? Op welke wijze is het vestje op de foto gebreid?

24.05.2022 - 23:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wilhelmina,

Je kunt met verschillende kleuren breien en het effect laten ontstaan. Zo is dat ook gedaan in het voorbeeld. Per maat is het effect ook weer anders.

27.05.2022 - 08:59

country flag Lise Habel wrote:

Je commence la partie DOS & DEVANT. Le premier rang, on tricote envers sur l'envers, puis 2 mailles endroit, 4 mailles envers (sans oublier la bordure de 5 mailles au point mousse). Par la suite, on nous indique de continuer AINSI sur 4 cm. J'imagine qu'on doit adapter les côtes pour tricoter les mailles comme elles se présentent. Est-ce exact? Cependant, si je suis le patron, je devrais tricoter un rang envers sur l'envers. Je suis confuse.

22.10.2021 - 04:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Habel, vous tricotez d'abord un rang envers sur l'envers sur toutes les mailles, puis continuez en côtes avec 5 m de bordure devant au point mousse (en glissant la 1ère m au début de chaque rang); donc effectivement sur l'endroit les côtes vont se tricoter: 2 m end, 4 m env et sur l'envers, 4 m end, 2 m env. Bon tricot!

22.10.2021 - 07:22

country flag Ruta wrote:

Czy robiąc ściągacz w tym sweterku 2 o.p. 4 o.l powtarzam to samo na prawej i lewej stronie robótki, czy na prawej stronie robótki mam robić same prawe oczka? Nie wychodzi mi ściągacz jak na zdjęciu.

27.09.2021 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj, na lewej stronie robótki ściągacz przerabiasz następująco: 5 oczek ściegiem francuskim (obszycie przodu, czyli przerób te oczka na prawo), 2 oczka lewe (na prawej stronie robótki były to oczka prawe), 4 oczka prawe itd. Kończ rząd przerabiając 2 oczka lewe i 5 oczek ściegiem francuskim. Pozdrawiamy!

27.09.2021 - 15:28

country flag Lilian Molin wrote:

Jag tänker beställa garn till mönstret Firefly. För att sticka behöver jag flera stickor. När jag försöker beställa, blir jag skickad till Linde Hobby. Min fråga är: Får jag då en fraktkostnad till, eller ingår stickorna i er fraktkostnad? Och kan jag i så fall även beställa knappar från Linde Hobby? Tacksam för svar. Mvh Lilian Molin

18.02.2021 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lilian, du beställer allt från LindeHobby samtidigt och det är bara att skicka en mail till LindeHobby om något är oklart :)

18.02.2021 - 13:24

country flag Angela wrote:

Non capisco se al momento di chiudere per il raglan del corpo devo usare tre gomitoli diversi. Se non fosse così, non so che pesci prendere. Grazie per la vostra risposta

03.02.2021 - 13:07

country flag Dorte Boye wrote:

Jeg strikke i str. 5-6 år, og har problemer med ærmerne. Først strikkes 4 cm rib, derefter 8 cm inden udtagning. Så står der, at man skal tage ud hver 4.cm i alt 7 gange (sv. til 28 cm). På tegningen er ærmelængden 34 cm incl. rib. Så jeg får for mange cm, hvis jeg strikker efter opskriften. Hvad er grunden til dette?

15.01.2021 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorte. Når arbeidet måler 8 cm starter du med økningene, og det skal økes totalt 7 ganger hver 4. cm. 1. økning er ved 8 cm, 2. økning ved 12 cm, 3. økning ved 16 cm, 4. økning ved 20 cm, 5. økning ved 24 cm, 6. økning ved 28 cm og 7. økning ved 32 cm. Strikk 1 cm til og bytt til settp 4. Strikk 1 omg vr, 1 omg rett og 1 omg vr, deretter strikkes 1 omg rett SAMTIDIG som det felles 8 m midt under arbeidet. Arbeidet måler nå ca 34 cm, slik det står i målskissen. mvh DROPS design

25.01.2021 - 13:49

country flag Lucia wrote:

Hola! Estoy tejiendo la talla 3 años y no llego a entender cómo pasar de 186 a 50 puntos en la pechera. Entiendo que he de deslizar 10+10 puntos que luego retomaré en el cuello. Pero veo en los comentarios que en las disminuciones del ranglán se restan cada vez 8 puntos... a mí me salen 4, dos de cada manga. ¿Podrían aclararme esto por favor? Muchas gracias.

15.10.2020 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lucia. Hay que hacer las disminuciones para el raglán : disminuir 1 punto a cada lado de la linea del raglán (son 4 líneas del raglán). En cada fila con disminuciones, disminuimos 8 puntos: ( 9+4 = un total de 13 disminuciones) 13x8 puntos + 20 puntos deslizados para el escote + 12 puntos cerrados para el escote= 136 puntos disminuidos/deslizados. 186 -136 = 50 puntos restantes.

21.11.2020 - 18:10

country flag Annette Gehrke wrote:

Vielen lieben Dank manchmal ist man etwas begriffstutzig LG Annette

22.07.2020 - 14:45