DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 22-7
DROPS design: Pattern no X-025-bna
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Size: child-child-child-child-woman
US: 6½/8 -9/10½ -11/13 -13½ -5/6½
EU: 23/25 -26/28 -29/31 -32/34 -35/37
To fit foot length: 15-17-18-20-22 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7''-8''-8¾''.

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
Blue slippers:
150-150-150-200-200 g color no 57, denim blue.
Slippers with gray stripes:
100 g for all sizes in color no 04, gray.
100 g for all sizes in color no 03, light gray.

+ some left-over thin wool yarn in black and red.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. After felting: approx. 20 sts x 34 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS #536: 2 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIGHT SLIPPER:
Worked back and forth in one piece and sewn tog mid back and mid on top of foot when finished.
If you want slippers with stripes, work 2 rows gray and 2 rows light gray alternately.

Cast on 58-60-62-66-70 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with denim blue or gray. Insert a marker in middle of sts on the row. K 1 row. Work next row as follows: * K until 1 st remains before marker, make 1 YO, K 2 sts and make 1 more YO, K the rest of row. P next row with 2 K sts in each side - P YOs twisted to avoid holes (i.e. work in back loop of st) *. Repeat from *-* 1 more time = 62-64-66-70-74 sts. Continue in stockinette st but K the first and last 2 sts in each side on every row. When piece measures approx. 12-13-14-15-15 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½"-6"-6" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), K the first 9 sts before slipping them on a stitch holder (for button strap), then bind off the next 2-2-2-3-3 sts, work the rest of row. Turn piece and bind off the first 11-11-11-12-12 sts = 40-42-44-46-50 sts remain on needle. Continue in stockinette st until finished measurements – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at the beg of every row 3 times in each side = 34-36-38-40-44 sts. When piece measures 24-27-29-31-34 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13 3/8" in total, K2 tog across. Work 1 row without dec, then K2 tog across again = 9-9-10-10-11 sts remain. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts and tighten tog.

BUTTON STRAP:
Slip the 9 sts from stitch holder back on needle size 5 mm / US 8.
K back and forth (= garter st) until strap measures 11-12-13-14-15 cm / 4½"-4 3/4"-5"-5½"-6"- (on slipper with stripes work the whole button strap in gray). Now bind off the middle 3 sts for button hole. On next row cast on 3 new sts over the bound off sts. Then dec at the end of every row by K 2 last sts on row tog until only 3 sts remain on needle. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

LEFT SLIPPER:
Work as right slipper until piece measures 12-13-14-15-15 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½"-6"-6". Work next row as follows: bind off the first 11-11-11-12-12 sts, work the rest of row. Turn, work the first 9 sts and then slip them on a stitch holder, bind off the next 2-2-2-3-3 sts = 40-42-44-46-50 sts remain on needle. Continue as on right slipper.

EARS:
Cast on 6-6-7-7-8 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with denim blue or gray. K back and forth - AT THE SAME TIME on second row, K the last 2 sts tog. Repeat dec at the end of every other row until all sts have been dec (i.e dec only in one side). Work 2 ears for each slipper.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the slipper double and sew tog mid back and mid on top on foot – sew edge to edge in front loop of outermost st to avoid a chunky seam. Sew ears on top of foot – fasten in the side on ears where sts were dec.

FELTING:
Place the slippers in the washing machine with a detergent without enzymes and optical bleach. Wash at warm at 40C/104F with normal spin but no pre-wash. After wash shape the slippers to the right size while still wet and leave to dry flat. At subsequent wash, wash the slippers at regular wool program.

FACE:
Sew on a red mouth and black eyes, nose and antennas as on picture.

BUTTON:
Sew on 1 button on each slipper so that they fit the button holes. Try the slipper on to ensure the correct width around the ankle.


AFTER FELTING:
If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm = 19 3/4" x 27 1/2" - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Danielle Poitras wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis à l'assemblage, pour la couture au milieu du dessus du pied, est ce que je dois faire la couture jusqu'en haut, ce qui va former comme une botte. Merci

26.02.2022 - 20:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Poitras, la couture du dessus du pied doit aller jusqu'au bout du cou de pied, pas jusqu'en haut du chausson, on voit un peu le petit trou de l'ouverture sous la bride de boutonnage sur la photo, si cela peut vous aider. Bon tricot!

28.02.2022 - 10:53

country flag Marie-Josee wrote:

Quand on dit une diminution de chaque cote je tircitte 2m ensemble et tricote jusqu a ma fin du rang et je refais une diminution ou tricote 2 m ensemble et les 2 dernière mailles ensembles?

07.02.2022 - 03:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Josee, vous tricotez en jersey et diminuez 1 maille au début de chaque rang (= au début du rang sur l'endroit: 2 m ens à l'endroit; au début du rang sur l'envers: 2 m ens à l'envers); répétez ces 2 rangs 2 à 3 fois selon la taille = on diminue 4 ou 6 mailles selon la taille; Bon tricot!

07.02.2022 - 10:48

country flag Martine Van Den Ende wrote:

Omdat ik door het vilten het inzicht mis; gaat het in het laatste stuk om een hoogte van (18-21-24) 27-29-31-34 cm voor het totale werkstuk, of vanaf de mindering? Dank alvast!

06.02.2022 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Martine,

Dit gaat om de totale hoogte.

11.02.2022 - 15:07

country flag Anna Stenzel wrote:

Gibt es das auch in geutsch? Danke, das wäre schön und hilfreich für mich Gruss Anna

05.12.2020 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Stenzel, alle unsere Modellen sind auch auf deutsch erhältlich, um die Sprache zu ändern, klicken Sie auf das Menu unter dem Bild. Viel Spaß beim stricken und filzen!

07.12.2020 - 09:58

country flag Heike wrote:

Hallo, ich habe nur eine kurze Frage. Die Abnahme der ersten 10 Maschen, nach12 cm bei der linken Socke, von der rechten oder linken Seite? Danke

13.09.2020 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, bei dem linken Haussschuhen werden die 10 ersten Maschen am Anfang einer Hinreihe abgekettet (so werden die beiden Hausschuhen symetrisch). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.09.2020 - 09:18

country flag Nancy Lussier wrote:

I don't want to felt these slippers; do I need to adjust the size to just do straight knitting?

25.12.2019 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nancy, the pattern is written with felting n mind, so the piece befoe feltingwould be way to big for a child. If you want to do it withouth felting you will have t do some recalculations of the stitch and row numbers. However, we think, felting is fun, maybe you do reconsider and give it a try? Happy Crafting!

26.12.2019 - 08:48

country flag Sheila wrote:

I dont understand how to sew up the slippers. What happens at the cuff and the button strap? Help!

20.10.2019 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sheila, fold the cast-on edge double and sew the stitches on mid back together. then sew the seam on upper foot (do not sew along the leg on front) from the top of upper foot towards toe (or from the toe along the upper foot, just before leg); after felting place the button strand over the leg and sew button in both layers. Happy assembly!

21.10.2019 - 10:48

country flag Oddlau Ek wrote:

Hei! Jeg har strikket str. 20/22, gråstripet. Det står at man trenger 50 gr. av hver farge, men jeg fikk for lite av den grå. Mvh. Oddlaug

18.08.2015 - 22:37

country flag Lucie wrote:

Bonjour Quel laine je pourrais remplacer si je ne veux pas feutrer? Merci! Lucie

19.02.2015 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucie, les explications des chaussons feutrés sont adaptés en largeur et en longueur à un feutrage. Si vous ne souhaitez pas feutrer, il est recommandé de regarder parmi les autres modèles non feutrés. Bon tricot!

20.02.2015 - 09:28

Diane Tessier wrote:

Bonjour, je ne suis pas certaine de comprendre l'étape suivante de ce patron: "continuer en jersey mais continuer à tricoter à l'endroit tous les rangs 1 m de chaque côté". Est-ce que cela veut dire que sur le rang envers, la 1ère m. se tricote toujours à l'endroit. Merci!!

23.01.2015 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tessier, la phrase a été reformulée, vous continuez en jersey en continuant à tricoter 1 m à l'endroit (= au point mousse) de chaque côté, c'est-à-dire au début et à la fin du rang. Bon tricot!

23.01.2015 - 15:22