DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Catherine

Knitted Pippi jacket with shawl collar and sripes, in DROPS Alaska. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 135-22
DROPS design: Pattern no X-366
Yarn group C

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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-96-104-112-124-136 cm / 35½"-37 3/4"-41"-44"-48 3/4"-53½"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
Color no 03, light gray: 700-750-850-950-1000-1100 g
Color no 53, dark pink mix: 100-100-150-150-150-150 g
Color no 57, denim blue: 100-100-150-150-150-150 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with Alaska = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm / US 7 (80 cm / 32'') - for rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 – for sleeves.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST: K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 - diagram is worked in stockinette st.

DECREASE TIP: Dec by K 2 sts tog.

INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

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BODY:

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 160-172-184-200-216-236 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with light gray. On 1st row (= RS) work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2, 1 edge st in garter st.
When piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½''-3½'', dec 12-12-12-16-16-16 sts evenly in rib on next row from WS =148-160-172-184-200-220 sts. Now switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. On next row from RS work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work diagram M.1 until 3 sts remain, finish with the first 2 sts in diagram M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Work diagram M.1 1 time vertically, then work the first 6 rows in diagram M.1. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 32-35-38-40-43-48 sts (= front piece) in from each side (back piece = 84-90-96-104-114-124 sts). Move the markers upwards when working. On next row (= 7th row in diagram M.1), dec 1 st on each side of every marker - Read decrease tip above (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 12 rows (i.e. dec on 7th and 19th row in diagram M.1 alternately = stockinette st with light gray) a total of 4 times = 132-144-156-168-184-204 sts.
When piece measures 55-56-57-58-59-60 cm / 21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22 ¾''-23¼''-23 5/8'', divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 76-82-88-96-106-116 sts. Continue with diagram M.1 until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''. On next row, bind off the middle 16-16-16-20-24-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 28-31-34-36-39-44 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½".

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 28-31-34-36-39-44 sts. Continue with diagram M.1 until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½", loosely bind off all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 32-36-40-40-44-48 sts with light gray on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. Work rib for 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-2¾'', switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and continue with diagram M.1. Insert a marker at the beg of the round. Read all of the following section before continuing!

Size S, M, L:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker - Read increase tip above - on 5th round in diagram M.1 (= stockinette st with light gray) = 2 new sts. Repeat inc every 12 rows (i.e. inc on 5th and 17th round in diagram M.1 alternately = stockinette st with light gray) a total of 8 times (= inc 2 sts a total of 8 times) = 48-52-56 sts.

Size XL, XXL, XXXL:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker - Read increase tip above - on 5th round in diagram M.1 = 2 new sts. Repeat inc every 12 rows (i.e. inc on 5th and 17th round in diagram M.1 alternately = stockinette st with light gray) a total of 4 times (= inc 2 sts a total of 4 times) = 48-52-56 sts. Then inc 1 st on each side of marker on 5th, 11th, 17th and 23rd round in diagram M.1 (= inc 2 sts a total of 4 times) = 56-60-64 sts.

All sizes: Continue until piece measures 50-49-49-47-45-43 cm / 19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-17 3/4"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width). Then work back and forth on row and bind off 5-5-6-6-6-7 sts for sleeve cap at the beg of the next 4 rows. At beg of the next 2 rows, bind off 6-7-7-7-8-7 sts = 16-18-18-18-20-22 sts remain. Piece now measures approx. 53-52-52-50-48-46 cm/ 21"-20½"-20½"-19 3/4"-19"-18". Loosely bind off all sts. Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams from RS with stitches. Sew in sleeves in front loop of outermost sts.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Worked back and forth on needle. Beg mid back of neck, knit up from RS approx. 140-180 sts inside 1 edge st around the neck and along left front piece on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with light gray. On next row (= WS) adjust no of sts to 146-150-158-166-174-178 sts (divisible by 4 + 2) while at the same time P the sts. Work rib on next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*. Continue with rib until band measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''- 3 1/8''- 3 1/8''. Insert a marker from RS after the first 34-34-38-38-42-42 sts on needle. Now inc 1 st in every K-section (seen from RS) over the 34-34-38-38-42-42 sts = 8-8-9-9-10-10 new sts in the neck. Repeat inc when band measures 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4½"-4½"-4½" = 162-166-176-184-194-198 sts. When band measures 11-11-11-12-12-12 cm / 4½"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT BAND:
Work up along right front piece from bottom edge until mid back of neck. P 1 row from WS and adjust no of sts as on left front band. 1st row in rib is worked as follows from RS: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st mid back of neck. Work and inc in the neck as on left front band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew bands tog mid back of neck inside 1 edge st.

BELT:
Cast on 15 sts on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib as follows: K 1, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*. Work rib for 150-160-170-180-190-200 cm / 59"-63"-67"-71"-75"-79", bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light gray
symbols = dark pink mix
symbols = denim blue
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Catherine

Asta, Lithuania

Catherine

Jolanta, United Kingdom

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 135-22

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Pia Bengtsson wrote:

Jeg skal strikke ærme og har taget ud og så passer mønsteret ikke mere altså der kommer fire grå masker ved siden af hinanden. Hvad gør jeg?

14.08.2016 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Ja, det kommer til at ske automatisk, men er ikke en fejl. Du strikker videre og tager ud som staar og strikker som mönstret er.

07.09.2016 - 14:36

country flag Soulhié Marie France wrote:

Merci pour vos réponses ultra-rapides, je vais essayer !

15.04.2015 - 13:38

country flag Soulhié Marie France wrote:

Excusez-moi encore mais comment sont réparties les 8 augmentations dont il est question pour l'encolure ? merci pour votre réponse

14.04.2015 - 19:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Soulhié, pour augmenter dans le col sur les bordures des devants, augmentez 1 m dans chacune des sections 2 m end des 34 m côté col, vous aurez ainsi des côtes 8 fois (3 m end/2 m env) vu sur l'endroit, en haut de la bordure (côté col) et toujours 2 m end/2 m env au-dessus des autres mailles. Bon tricot!

15.04.2015 - 08:45

country flag SOULHIE Michel wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais avoir des explications en ce qui concerne la bordure. Je ne comprends pas la partie des augmentations. Par exemple qu'entendez-vous par " chaque section endroit " ? Je vous remercie d'avance pour votre réponse. Marie-France

01.04.2015 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-France, la bordure se tricote d'abord en côtes 2 m end/2 m env - vous augmentez ensuite 1 m end dans chaque section 2 m end (vu sur l'endroit) et continuez ainsi en côtes 3 m end/2 m env, puis 4 m end/2 m env (vu sur l'end) dans les sections concernées. Bon tricot!

01.04.2015 - 16:45

country flag Camilla Jonasson wrote:

Hej. När man börjar denna kofta ska man ju ha en rätstickad maska i varje sida. Ska man även ha det sen när man fortsätter med bakstycket för sig? Eller kör man med bara slätstickning då?

12.01.2015 - 10:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, nej på bakstycket behöver du inte ha en rätstickad maska, här fortsätter du mönstret. Lycka till!

02.02.2015 - 15:58

country flag Karin Overeem wrote:

Jag undrar om hela koftat ska rätstickas? Tycker det på bilden ser ut som slätstickning från resåren och uppåt. Tack på förhand!

28.10.2014 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, Nej det skall slätstickas. Lycka till!

29.10.2014 - 15:20

country flag Tina wrote:

Vielen Dank :)

15.03.2014 - 08:55

country flag Tina wrote:

Ist es möglich, an diese Jacke eine Kapuze zu stricken?

12.03.2014 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tina, wegen des Schalkragens eigenet sich dieses Modell weniger für eine Kapuze. Unser Tipp: suchen Sie sich ein anderes Muster mit Kapuze und stricken Sie das sogenannen Pippi-Muster (von Pippi Langstrumpf), wenn Ihnen dies gefällt. Die evtl Anpassung an das Muster ist einfacher als den Schnitt zu ändern. Dort hilft Ihnen sicher der Laden weiter, bei dem Sie die Wolle kaufen.

14.03.2014 - 12:53

country flag Anneli wrote:

Gör inte samma misstag som jag. När du ska bestämma vilken storlek du ska sticka, så står bystvidden uppe vid axlarna! Gå inte efter måttet längst ner. Jag har nyss börjat om, för min blev för liten... Verkar annars vara en trevlig kofta! Jag stickar den i Nepal, och det verkar bli mysigt.

21.12.2012 - 14:25

country flag Ulrika wrote:

Alldeles underbar!!

28.06.2011 - 10:12