DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 135-7
DROPS design: Pattern no U-628
Yarn group B
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Sizes: woman-woman-woman-men

US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½ - 11½/13
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43 - 44/46

Foot length: 22-24-27-30 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”-11 3/4"

Leg length: 20 cm / 8'' in all sizes

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 53, anthracite
100 g for all sizes in color no 19, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. All diagrams are worked in stockinette st.

HEEL DECREASE:
1st row (= RS): Work until 7-7-8-8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
2nd row (= WS): Work until 7-7-8-8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
3rd row (= RS): Work until 6-6-7-7 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
4th row (= WS): Work until 6-6-7-7 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 9-9-11-11 sts on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 64-64-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with anthracite.
K 1 round, then work 4 rounds in rib = K 1/P 1.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4.
On next round work diagram A.4, then A.1 in size 5-9 (= 16 sts) and A.2 in size 9½-13 (= 17 sts) over all sts on needle.
Then work A.3 (= 4 sts) over all sts on needle - AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 4 sts evenly = 60-60-64-64 sts.
Then work A.5 (= 4 sts) over all sts on needle - AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 4 sts evenly = 56-56-60-60 sts.
K 1 round with white.
Continue to work as follows: Diagram A.6 (= 35 sts), diagram A.7 (= 4 sts) over the next 20-20-24-24 sts, finish with diagram A.8 (= 1 st).
Work diagram A.7/A.8 a total of 5 times vertically, then slip sts in diagram A.6 (= 35 sts) on a stitch holder = 21-21-25-25 sts for heel.
Work diagram A.9 over sts on needle for 5-5½-6-6½ cm / 2"-2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2½".
Insert a marker, then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above.
After heel dec, knit up 12-12-14-14 sts on each side of heel and slip the 35 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-68-74-74 sts.
Continue to work the 35 sts on upper foot in diagram A.6, work sts under foot in diagram A.9, AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of st on upper foot as follows: K the 2 sts before diagram A.6 tog and K the 2 sts after diagram A.6 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), repeat dec every other round a total of 5 times = 58-58-64-64 sts.
Continue with diagram A.6 and A.9.
When diagram A.6 has been worked 2 times vertically, continue as follows: Diagram A.10 (= 3 sts), diagram A.9 over the next 29 sts, diagram A.10, diagram A.9 over the next 23-23-29-29 sts.
Work until piece measures 17-19-21-24 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9½" from marker on heel (= 5-5-6-6 cm / 2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" remain).
Then continue with pattern as before - AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of the middle st in diagram A.10 in each side.
Dec as follows before st: K the last 2 sts before mid st tog with white.
Dec as follows after st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 with white, psso.
Repeat dec every round a total of 9-9-10-10 times = 22-22-24-24 sts remain.
On next round, with white K2 tog around = 11-11-12-12 sts.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.09.2013
SOCK:
...
Now work diagram M.1 (= 16 sts) over all sts on needle, AT THE SAME TIME on last round of diagram M.1, dec 4 sts evenly = 60-60-64-64 sts.
Now work diagram M.2 (= 4 sts) over all sts on needle, AT THE SAME TIME on last round of diagram M.2, dec 4 sts evenly = 56-56-60-60 sts. ...
Updated online: 16.10.2013
New text under SOCK and new charts (A.1 to A.10)
Updated online: 22.08.2014
New chart A.5 + under SOCK (A.3 and A.4 have swapped):
....Now work diagram A.4, then A.1 in size 35/37 - 38/40 (= 16 sts) and A.2 in size 41/43 - 44/46 (= 17 m) over all sts on needle.
Then work A.3 - AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 4 sts evenly = 60-60-64-64 sts. ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = white
symbols = anthracite
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Eva Horáková wrote:

V českém překladu je hodně chyb v popisu pletení jednotlivých vzorů. Nejen že jsou označeny M namísto A, ale některé jsou i vynechané. Hned na začátku pod lemem chybí jedna řada světlou přízí i další (v originále A4). Nejsem schopná to správně srovnat ani podle originálu nebo fotografie. Škoda.

29.01.2023 - 23:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Evo, děkujeme za upozornění - návod je kompletně opravený a vzor by již měl vycházet tak, jak má. Hodně zdaru! Hana

30.01.2023 - 07:20

country flag Janneke Feenstra wrote:

In het begin van het patroon staat: Brei vervolgens A.3 over alle st op de nld, minder TEGELIJKERTIJD in de laatste nld van telpatroon A.4, 4 st gelijkmatig = 60-60-64-64 st. Als ik de minderingen na A4 doe, dan komt het telpatroon van A2 niet uit. Ik denk dat de minderingen in de laatste naald van A3 moet zijn. Klopt dit? Dan kom ik namelijk wel uit. Vriendelijke groeten, Janneke

20.02.2022 - 16:50

country flag Lina wrote:

Diagram M1 till M6 står det vid hälstickning. Var hittar jag dem?

13.01.2021 - 08:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lina. Det var ett skrivfel, det ska stå diagram A.1 till A.10. Tack för info, detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

14.01.2021 - 09:58

country flag David Porter wrote:

How do you do the heel decrease without getting holes please. David

17.04.2020 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Porter, the video below shows how to decrease for heel, it might help you. Happy knitting!

17.04.2020 - 12:41

country flag Tarja wrote:

Hej Har kommit halvvägs och nu har diagrammet försvunnit. Kan man FP tillbaks det.

26.01.2019 - 13:24

country flag Carola örnfjäll wrote:

Om jag skriver ut detta mönster nu, 12/1-19, stämmer det till fullo nu? Då man läser kommentarerna verkar det vara lite förvirrat om att vissa mönster ska byta plats, vissa mönster ska stickas uppifrån o ner inte nerifrån o upp som vanligt. Ser fram emot svar snarast.

12.01.2019 - 21:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Carola. Diagram A.5 var opp ned, dette vil bli rettet snarest slik at det er 2 omganger hvit, 2 omganger grå på toppen av diagrammet. Ellers er det ingen flere rettelser til dette diagrammet enn de som allerede er gjort. God fornøyelse

16.01.2019 - 13:33

country flag Heidi wrote:

Miten kantapään kavennukset tehdään 4. krs:n jälkeen? En ymmärrä, miten joka toisella kerroksella kavennetaan silmukoita ennen silmukan nostamista.

18.12.2016 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Kavennukset tehdään siten, että neulotaan joka toisella kerroksella aina 1 s vähemmin, ennen kuin tehdään ylivetokavennus.

19.12.2016 - 15:58

country flag Marina wrote:

Quel est le diagramme M.5 pour faire le talon merci

20.05.2016 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marina, il faut en fait suivre le diagramme A.9 et non M.5 pour le talon, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

20.05.2016 - 17:37

country flag Ajaaja Jørgensen wrote:

I oversigten over materialer og størrelser er der 3 størrelser: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43. Når man så vil starte på opskriften er der 4 str. beskrevet: Slå 64-64-68-68 masker op. Hvilken skal jeg bruge når jeg vil lave str. 38/40? Mvh Ajaaja

23.02.2016 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Der er 4 størrelser i opskriften: Størrelse: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 - 44/46 på nettet. God fornøjelse!

24.02.2016 - 15:13

country flag Meg Börjesson wrote:

Varför har ni inte ändrat i mönstret att a4 och a3 skall äbdra plats?? Detta är ju påpekat för längesen

24.01.2016 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Denna rättelsen hade dessvärre inte kommit med i den svenska översättningen, det är nu ordnat. Mvh DROPS Design

26.01.2016 - 08:00