Wild Flower |
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Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in ”Nepal”. Size: S to XXXL
DROPS 132-2 |
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CROCHET TIP: Replace first tr on every round/row with ch 4. DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to the body): Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 dc, in the next 1 hdc and in the last 1 sc, turn with ch 1, skip sc, work 1 sl st in hdc and 1 sl st in dc, then 1 sc in first tr, 1 hdc in next tr and 1 dc in next tr, work tr until 3 tr remain at end of row *, repeat from *-* until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked. DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve cap): Dec at beg of row by working sl st over the no of tr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of sts to be dec remains, turn piece. -------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked in the round in a circle from mid back. Ch 8 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. ROUND 1: Work 12 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc. ROUND 2: ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc with 2 ch between each. ROUND 3: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-space the entire round: 1 sc + ch 1 + 1 sc + ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in first ch = 24 sc with 1 ch between each. ROUND 4: 1 sl st in first sc, 1 sl st in first ch, ch 5, 1 dtr in same ch, * ch 7, then work 4 dtr tog as follows: Work 2 dtr in same ch as last dtr but wait with last YO and pull through on both dtr, skip 1 sc + 1 ch + 1 sc, work 1 dtr in next ch but wait with last YO and pull through, then work last dtr in same ch and pull last YO through all 5 sts on hook *, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, ch 7, work 2 dtr tog in same ch (but wait with last YO and pull through on both), work 1 sl st in 5th ch from beg of round and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. ROUND 5: 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 4 (= 1 tr), 7 tr in same ch-space, then work 8 tr in every ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = a total of 96 tr. ROUND 6: ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 ch-spaces. ROUND 7 – READ CROCHET TIP: Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 120 tr. ROUND 8: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 10th tr = 132 tr. ROUND 9: ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 66 ch-spaces. ROUND 10: Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 165 tr. ROUND 11: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 15th tr = 176 tr. ROUND 12: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 16th tr = 187 tr. Piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8" from center and outwards. SIZE S/M: ROUND 13: ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 45 tr (= up towards neck), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 88 tr (= down towards back), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round. ROUND 14: Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 45 sc (= 47 tr), then work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 88 sc (= 91 tr), and work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole = 198 tr. ROUND 15 to 19: Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 228 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 33 cm / 13" from center and outwards. Continue working only over 79 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 35 tr at top by neck or 35 tr at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under FRONT PIECE. SIZE L/XL: ROUND 13: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr. ROUND 14: ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 50 tr (= up towards neck), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 90 tr (= down towards back), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round. ROUND 15: Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 3 tr evenly over the first 50 sc (= 53 tr), then work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 90 sc (= 93 tr), and work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole = 210 tr. ROUND 16 to 20: Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 20th round there are 240 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 35 cm / 13¾" from center and outwards. Continue working only over 81 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 39 tr at top by neck or 39 tr at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under FRONT PIECE. SIZE XXL and XXXL: ROUND 13: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr. ROUND 14: Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 18th tr = 209 tr. ROUND 15: ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 54 tr (= up towards neck), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 91 tr (= down towards back), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round. ROUND 16: Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 54 sc (= 56 tr), then work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 91 sc (= 94 tr), and work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole = 222 tr. ROUND 17 to 22: Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 22nd round there are 258 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 37 cm / 14½" from center and outwards. Continue working only over 89 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 40 tr at top by neck or 40 tr at bottom of back. Continue with explanation under FRONT PIECE. LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES: = 79-81-89 tr. Insert a marker after 23-24-27 sts in from each side (= 33-33-35 sts between markers). Then work tr back and forth over these sts while at the same time inc 1 st at every marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 sts on row, inc alternately before and after marker) and dec 3 sts at beg and end of every row in each side – SEE DECREASE TIP 1 until a total of 6-8-12 rows back and forth have been worked. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work same way as on left piece over 79-81-89 tr in right side. SLEEVE (worked back and forth): Ch 46-48-53 loosely (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal. ROW 1: 1 tr in 5th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 2-4-2 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 4 ch remain, skip 1 ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 3 ch = 37-39-43 tr. ROW 2: 1 tr in every tr – READ CROCHET TIP! ROW 3: ch 6 (= 1 tr + 2 ch), skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, * ch 2, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 18-19-21 ch-spaces. ROW 4: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr in every ch-space = 37-39-43 tr. Repeat row 2-4 a total of 3 times. Piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7". Then work tr on all rows until finished measurements, while at the same time inc as follows: SIZE S/M: * Inc 1 tr in one side by working 2 tr in next to last tr. On next row inc 1 tr in the other side the same way. Inc 1 more time the same way in each side, then work 1 row without inc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times = 12 inc = 49 tr. SIZE L/XL + XXL/XXXL: * Inc 1 tr in one side by working 2 tr in next to last tr. On next row inc 1 tr in the other side the same way *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times = 16 inc = 55-59 tr. ALL SIZES: Continue to work until piece measures 49 cm / 19¼" in all sizes. Now dec on every row in each side for sleeve cap – SEE DECREASE TIP 2: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 3 times and 3 tr 1 time = 25-31-35 tr remain at the top. Fasten off. ASSEMBLY: Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows: * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 st, fasten with 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Sew in the sleeves. If desired, close the jacket with a pin or sew on a button on to left front piece (try the jacket on to see where button should be) and button it in crochet edge. |
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Comments / Questions (433)
Danielle wrote:
voor het voorpand staat er: meerder TEGELIJKERTIJD 1 st bij iedere markeerder elke toer (dus meerder 2 st op de toer, meerder afwisselend voor en na de markeerder) en minder 3 st aan het begin en het einde van iedere toer aan iedere kant – ZIE TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN-1 tot er in totaal 6-8-12 toeren heen en weer zijn gehaakt als ik tussen de markeerders moet werken hoe kan ik dan voor en achter de markeerder meerderen, en hoe moet ik en meerderen en minderen aan t begin van elke toer
21.03.2015 - 13:43DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Danielle. Je haakt het voorpand heen en weer over 79-81-89 dstk. Je plaatst de markeerders 23-24-27 st vanaf iedere kant van het voorpand, dus je haakt niet heen en weer tussen de markeerders, maar over alle st voor het voorpand. Onder TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN-1 boven aan het patroon kan je lezen hoe je moet minderen voor het voorpand.
24.03.2015 - 15:12Manuela wrote:
Quindi, la prima riga di diminuzioni ha 3 m.bss. su entrambi i lati, la seconda ne ha 5 per lato, la terza ne ha 7 per lato, e così via fino all'ultima che ha 12 m.bss. per lato. Ho capito bene? Grazie ancora
11.03.2015 - 07:28DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Manuela. Le m.bss vanno lavorate solo all’inizio della riga e non deve più lavorare sopra queste m. Prima riga con diminuzioni: 3 m.bss, lavora poi m.a.d finchè non rimangono 3 m.a.d della riga precedente. Non deve lavorare queste ultime 3 m.a.d. Ha così diminuito 3 m su entrambi i lati. Gira il lavoro: 2 m.bss, m.a.d finchè non rimangono 2 m.a.d della riga precedente, che non lavora. Gira il lavoro. Così per 3 righe. Ultima riga con diminuzioni: 3 m.bss, m.a.d finchè non rimangono 3 m.a.d. Ci riscriva se non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!
11.03.2015 - 09:11Manuela wrote:
Scusate, ma non non mi sono chiare due cose sul come deve essere eseguito il "SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI 2 (applicato all'aletta delle maniche)": 1. dopo aver fatto le m.bss. la prima maglia successiva è una m.a.d.? 2. eseguita una riga di diminuzioni, le prime maglie dopo aver voltato il lavoro sono m.bss.? Grazie
10.03.2015 - 22:05DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Manuela. Dopo le m.bss all’inizio della riga, lavora 1 m.a.d in ogni m.a.d. La prima m.a.d viene sostituita da 4 cat. Le diminuzioni vanno fatte su ogni riga, quindi quando gira il lavoro, lavorerà 2 m.bss all’inizio della riga per 3 volte e 3 m.bss per 1 volta. Buon lavoro!
10.03.2015 - 23:00Aileen wrote:
Hallo liebes Drops-Team Ich bin gerade mit der Abnahme für die Ärmel beschäftigt und die Erklärung ist für mich nicht schlüssig was die Kettmaschen betrifft. Und wann muss ich abdrehen? Danke für die Antwort Grüße von Aileen
23.02.2015 - 13:23DROPS Design answered:
Wenn Sie am Anfang der R Maschen abnehmen wollen, häkeln Sie für die M, die Sie abnehmen möchten, Kett-Maschen. Diese sind ja besonders flach und fallen daher nicht ins Gewicht. Dann häkeln Sie die angegebene Zahl M und lassen am Ende der R einfach die Anzahl Maschen aus, die Sie abnehmen möchten, d.h. Sie wenden dann einfach vorher. Am Ende der R müssen Sie also keine Kett-M häkeln, das machen Sie immer nur am R-Anfang, damit der Faden nicht dauernd neu angesetzt werden muss.
06.03.2015 - 10:11Petra Lindberg wrote:
Hej! Ska man börja med "avmaskning" på vänster framstycke eller ska man börja varvet med 4 lm och sen dubbelstolpar till slutet av raden och där göra första avmaskningen. Eller ska första varvet bestå av 79 dst + 2 ökade? Och var börjar man på höger framstycke? Upp mot halsen på "avig-sidan"? Tack på förhand!
19.02.2015 - 07:12Laura wrote:
Liebes Drops-Team, ich habe eine Frage zur 3.Runde: Wie ist die Gesamt-Maschen Zahl dieser Runde? Wenn ich es ausrechne komme ich auf 49 M (wenn man von 24 fm ausgeht. Und dann hätte ich noch gerne gewusst, ob jede Masche der vorherigen Reihe bedient wird, d.h. jeweils eine fm in die M der vorherigen Reihe und dazwischen jeweils LM? Oder heißt es, man häkelt eine fm in eine M der vorherigen Reihe, lässt dann eine M aus und macht stattdessen eine LM? Danke für Eure Hilfe!!!
18.02.2015 - 11:27DROPS Design answered:
Ja, Sie müssten insgesamt auf 49 M kommen, mit den Lm zwischen den fM und der Anfangs-Lm. In welche M der Vor-R gehäkelt wird, ist immer in der Anleitung beschrieben, wenn Sie sich daran halten, sollte es klappen. In der 2. Rd häkeln Sie z.B. in jede feste M, durch die 2 Lm wird keine fM übersprungen. In der 3. Rd häkeln Sie nur um die Lm-Bögen, d.h. Sie häkeln um die 2 Lm der 2. Rd 1 fM + 1 Lm + 1 fM + 1 Lm. In das Stb der 2. Rd wird nicht gehäkelt.
22.02.2015 - 21:58Monique Graulus wrote:
Hoi, heb voor dit leuke vest de cirkel klaar. Heb dan voor maat s/m toer 13 gemaakt. Is het de bedoeling dat de 30 lossen zijn om je arm door te steken ? Lijkt me toch klein ?
17.02.2015 - 12:26DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Monique. De ene kant van het armsgat is de 30 l, je hebt ook de st aan de andere kant van de lossen (de 27 dbl-stk overgeslagen).
17.02.2015 - 14:17Lia wrote:
Beste Drops Ben nu klaar met haken tot toer 22 maar het werk is maar 33cm i.p.v. 37. Kan ik nu doorhaken tot 37 cm. zonder te meerderen? Kan ik het werk dubbelvouwen om mv. te vinden? Vriendelijk bedankt Lia
17.01.2015 - 21:40Septfondesetoiles wrote:
Bonjour! j'ai terminé la 1ere manche et commence les diminutions mais j'ai un souci de compréhension. selon les explications diminutions 2 (arrondi des manches) , le rendu fait des diminutions en escalier et non en arrondi. cela ne semble pas cohérent. je suis bloquée et ne trouve pas de réponse sur le forum; pouvez-vous m'aider svp??? merci!
16.01.2015 - 19:08DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Septfondesetoiles, les diminutions pour l'arrondi de la manche sont ainsi faites, et on les assemble ensuite le long des emmanchures - épinglez avant si vous préférez pour bien placer les manches. Bon crochet!
19.01.2015 - 09:51Lia Reijnen wrote:
IK ben met dit leuke patroon bezig maar er staat in toer 17 dat je 6 dubbele stokjes in totaal moet meerderen ,moet dat ook over de kop van de mouw de 36 lossen .ik heb op deze toer ook 36 dubbele stokje gehaakt in totaal heb ik 222 dubbele stokjes. Moet je dus alleen meerderen over de 56 en 94 dubbele stokjes? Groetje Lia
13.01.2015 - 23:47DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Lia. Je meerdert 6 dubbele stokjes in totaal over alle stokjes op de toer - dus ook over de stokjes van de mouw.
14.01.2015 - 15:07