DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 134-1
DROPS design: Pattern no U-619
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-106-116-126-136 cm / 34½"-38½"-41 3/4"-45 3/4"-49½"-53½"
Full length: 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 65, denim blue: 750-800-900-1000-1100-1200 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – for edges.

DROPS Angular buffelhorn button #538: 5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.4 – diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS (1st row = RS).

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

KNITTING TIP (applies to band):
Work the 5 band sts in garter st with double yarn the entire piece, i.e. have a little ball on the side that is only used on band. When inc for collar, work the inc sts with double yarn. This is done to make the band and the collar nice and firm.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right front band from RS. 1 BUTTON HOLE = bind off 3rd and 4th band st from mid front, on next row cast on 2 new sts over these sts.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 18, 25, 32, 39 and 46 cm / 7",9 3/4",12½",15 1/4" and 18"
SIZE M: 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 7½",10 1/4",13",15 3/4" and 18½"
SIZE L: 20, 27, 34, 41 and 48 cm / 8",10 5/8",13 3/8",16 1/8" and 19"
SIZE XL: 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm / 8 1/4",11",13 3/4",16½" and 19 1/4"
SIZE XXL: 22, 29, 36, 43 and 50 cm / 8 3/4",11 3/8",14 1/4",17" and 19 3/4"
SIZE XXXL: 23, 30, 37, 44 and 51 cm / 9",11 3/4",14½",17 1/4" and 20"

INCREASE TIP (applies to collar):
Inc inside outermost band st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck):
Dec from RS inside the sts inc for collar + the 5 band sts + the first 3 sts in stockinette st.
Dec as follows AFTER these sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec as follows BEFORE these sts: K 2 tog.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 126-136-146-156-174-184 sts on straight needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. K 2 rows (1st row = RS), switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
PATTERN: Continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, 12-17-22-27-16-21 sts in reverse stockinette st, diagram M.2 (= 20 sts) 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, diagram M.1A (= 60 sts), diagram M.2 (= 20 sts) 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 12-17-22-27-16-21 sts in reverse stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.
When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8'', work diagram M.1B over diagram M.1A, work the other sts as before (dec 12 sts in diagram M.1B as shown in diagram). After diagram M.1B, continue to work diagram M.1C over diagram M.1B.
SIDE DEC AND SIDE INC:
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', dec 1 st in each side. Repeat dec every 2½ cm / 7/8'' a total of 10 times. When piece measures 40 cm / 15 3/4'', inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 4 times (work inc sts in reverse stockinette st).
After all dec and inc there are 102-112-122-132-150-160 sts on the needle.

ARMHOLES: When piece measures 55-56-57-58-59-60 cm / 21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22 ¾''-23¼''-23 5/8'', bind off and dec for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: 5 sts 1 time in all sizes, 3 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 1-2-4-4-5-5 times and 1 st 3-2-2-3-5-5 times = 82-84-86-88-92-96 sts.

Continue the pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½", K 4 rows over the middle 40 sts (work the other sts as before). Then bind off the middle 30 sts for neck. Finish each shoulder (= 26-27-28-29-30-31 sts) separately.
Continue the pattern with 5 sts in garter st towards the neck. When piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33'', work the 8 sts over the cable in diagram M.2 tog 2 by 2 = 22-23-24-25-26-27 sts remain on needle. On next row bind off all sts K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 68-73-78-83-92-97 sts (includes 5 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in the side) on needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. READ KNITTING TIP!
K 2 rows (1st row = RS), switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

PATTERN: Continue as follows (= from RS):

SIZE S, M, L and XL: 5 band sts in garter st, 4 sts in stockinette st, 6 sts in reverse stockinette st, diagram M.3A (= 40 sts), 12-17-22-27 sts in reverse stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.

Size XXL and XXXL: 5 band sts in garter st, 4 sts in stockinette st, 6 sts in reverse stockinette st, diagram M.3A (= 40 sts), M.2 (= 20 sts), 16-21 sts in reverse stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.

When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8'', work diagram M.3B over diagram M.3A, work the other sts as before (dec 6 sts in diagram M.3B as shown in diagram). After diagram M.3B, continue to work diagram M.3C over these sts.

SIDE DEC AND SIDE INC:
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', dec 1 st in the side. Repeat dec every 2½ cm / 7/8'' a total of 10 times. When piece measures 40 cm / 15 3/4'', inc 1 st in the side. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 4 times (work inc sts in reverse stockinette st).

BUTTON HOLES: At the same time when piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'', bind off for button holes - see explanation above.

COLLAR: At the same time when piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½'', from RS inc 2 sts for collar as follows: Make 1 YO after first st and 1 YO after second st, on next row K both YOs twisted to avoid holes. Continue to inc 1 st for collar on every other row a total of 12 times and then every 4th row a total of 6 times – SEE INCREASE TIP! After all inc, there are 20 inc collar sts and 25 sts in garter st in total (all these sts are worked with double yarn).

NECKLINE: At the same time when piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼'', dec 1 st towards the neck - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other row a total of 12 times and then on every 4th row a total of 8 times.

ARMHOLE: At the same time when piece measures 55-56-57-58-59-60 cm / 21 5/8''-22''-22½''-22 ¾''-23¼''-23 5/8'', bind off and dec for armhole in the side as on back piece.

After all inc and dec, there are 46-47-48-49-51-53 sts on needle. Work until piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33'', adjust so that next row is worked from RS. Continue to work the 8 sts over the cable tog 2 by 2 = 42-43-44-45-47-49 sts on needle. On next row (= WS), bind off the first 22-23-24-25-27-29 sts for shoulder, K the rest of row. Continue like this over the remaining 20 collar sts: * K 2 rows over all sts, K 2 rows over only the outermost 14 sts (towards mid front) *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-8 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8'' at the inside (it will then measure approx. 14-16 cm / 5½"-6 1/4'' at the edge). Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. after 2 rows K, work pattern as follows (from RS):
SIZE S, M, L and XL: 1 edge st in garter st, P 12-17-22-27 sts, diagram M.4A (= 40 sts), P 6 sts, K 4 sts and 5 band sts in garter st.
Size XXL and XXXL: 1 edge st in garter st, P 16-21 sts, diagram M.2 (= 20 sts), diagram M.4A, P 6 sts, K 4 sts and 5 band sts in garter st.
Then work diagram M.4B and diagram M.4C instead of diagram M.3B and diagram M.3C.
Sts over cable on shoulder are bind off from WS and shoulder sts from RS; this is done opposite from right front piece to avoid cutting the yarn when working the collar.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 100-100-100-116-116-132 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. K 1 row (1st row = RS) and P 1 row, then K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 50-50-50-58-58-66 sts. K 1 row from WS.
Then work rib = K 4/P 4 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in reverse stockinette st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-13-13-13-11-11 cm / 5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"'', inc 1 st each side, repeat inc every 3-2½-2-2-2-2 cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 12-14-16-15-17-16 times = 74-78-82-88-92-98 sts.
When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm / 19¼''-19''-18½''-18''-17¾''-17¼'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder width) bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 5-6-7-9-10-12 times and then 2 sts in each side until piece measures 57 cm / 22½''. Continue to bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side, then bind off the remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx. 58 cm / 22 3/4''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew collar to the back of neckline. Sew in sleeves and sew under arm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.09.2011
A new chart for M.1 B has been added.
Updated online: 26.09.2011
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:... Size XXL and XXXL: 5 band sts in garter st, 4 sts in stockinette st, 6 sts in reverse stockinette st, diagram M.3A (= 40 sts), M.2 (= 20 sts), 16-21 sts in reverse stockinette st and 1 edge st in garter st.
LEFT FRONT PIECE: ...Size XXL and XXXL: 1 edge st in garter st, P 16-21 sts, diagram M.2 (= 20 sts), diagram M.4A, P 6 sts, K 4 sts and 5 band sts in garter st.
Updated online: 20.03.2014
A new chart for M.3 B and M.4 B has been added.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, P 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (639)

country flag Nyllie wrote:

How do you do the side increases on the back at 40 cm? Do you do them from RS or WS? Do you use yo make one knit front and back purl front and back lifted inc ???

30.11.2015 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nyllie, the inc on the sides at 40 cm can be done with your usual technique - they are worked in reverse stocking st. See video below showing how to inc 1 P st from RS. Happy knitting!

01.12.2015 - 08:36

country flag Inge wrote:

Vanaf 49 cm moet er geminderd worden voor de hals. Dit moet bij het rechter voorpand NA alle voorbiessteken en de 4 tricotsteken als ik het goed begrijp en ook al bij eerdere vragen heb gelezen. Ik begrijp alleen niet wat er wordt bedoeld met " 1 st r afh, 1 st r, afgeh st overh". Er moet dan iedere 2e naald 1 steek geminderd worden door aan de goede kant steeds twee steken samen te breien neem ik aan, maar hoe doe je dat als het twee verschillende steken zijn? Voor welke steek kies je dan?

30.11.2015 - 06:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Inge. Bij het rechter voorpand kies je voor TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN NA DE ST - dus 1 st r afh, 1 st r, afgeh st overh. Je mindert VOOR de st op het linker voorpand (2 st r samen)

30.11.2015 - 14:36

country flag Nyllie wrote:

Not sure how to do decreases for back and sides. Decreases begin when back is 12 cm. It says to do decreases from right side by knitting two together and by slip one as if to knit knit one and pass slip stitch over but the right side is purl in reverse stockinette so do I purl 2 tog and s as if to purl purl one and.........?

26.11.2015 - 06:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nyllie, this dec tip (slip 1, K, psso) applies to neck, on the side, dec by P2 tog on each side (from RS). Happy knitting!

26.11.2015 - 09:35

country flag Pascale Genevée wrote:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée à l"encolure et au col. Je ne comprends pas du tout comment on forme à la fois le col et l'encolure et où effectuer augmentations et diminutions. Merci d'avance.

19.10.2015 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Genevée, pour le col: on augmente d'abord 2 m (1 m lis, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté - devant droit), puis on augmente 12 fois 1 m tous les 2 rangs et 6 fois tous les 4 rangs (= 1 m lis, 1 jeté - devant droit). Pour l'encolure (devant droit), on diminue 1 m après les m augmentées pour le col + les m de la bordure devant. On commence à augmenter pour le col à 47-52 cm (cf taille) et on commence à diminuer pour l'encolure à 49-54 cm. Bon tricot!

20.10.2015 - 10:25

Hélène Fortier wrote:

Bonjour A 47 cm lorsque je commence le col - Est-ce que la première augmentation se fait après la maille lisière ou après les 5 mailles de bordure ? merci beaucoup

16.09.2015 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fortier, à 47 cm, on augmente 2 m pour le col ainsi, en commençant sur l'endroit (par la bordure devant): 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, continuez comme avant. Augmentez ensuite 1 seule m: 12 fois tous les 2 rangs puis 6 fois tous les 4 rangs. Bon tricot!

17.09.2015 - 09:05

country flag Sarah wrote:

Jeg har problemer med indtagningen på rygstykke. Jeg starter med 126 m, men skal indtage 1 m på hver side i 10 omg totalt. Dvs, det bliver 20 masker i alt. Derefter skal jeg udtage 1 m på hver side i 4 omgang totalt. Det bliver 8 masker. Dvs 126 - 20 - 8.... Men opskriften siger at jeg skal have 102 masker tilbage. Hvordan kan det lade sig gøre?

28.08.2015 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sarah, husk også indtagningerne ifølge diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

06.10.2015 - 15:48

country flag Maria wrote:

Hei. Aldri strikket så komplisert mønster. Det ble veldig pent og god fassong. Men jakka nupper etter ganske lit bruk. Kan men unngå det?

12.08.2015 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, Dejligt at du synes om modellen. Ja forsög at undgå jakke med syntetfoer. Hvis jakken har fået lidt nupper, så kan de skäres eller klippes bort og jakken vil se ud som ny. Held og lykke!

28.08.2015 - 16:17

Helen Shaw wrote:

Could you clarify the decrease tip that applies to the front neck. Where the tip says Dec as follows BEFORE these sts: K2 tog - what stitches is it referring to and do you decrease twice on one row or once over two rows.

03.08.2015 - 02:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Shaw, you dec for neck after (right front piece) or before (left front piece) the sts inc for collar + the 5 band sts + the first 3 sts in stocking st (from mid front). You dec for neck 1 st every other row a total of 12 times then every 4th row a total of 8 times. Happy knitting!

03.08.2015 - 10:03

country flag Ulla Jouttijarvi wrote:

Jeg har problemer med højre forstykke kraven. Hvor får i de 25 retstrik-m fra? Efter alle udtagninger er der 20 nye krave-m og 25 retstrik-m totalt.

23.07.2015 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulla, De 25 m er de 20 nye + de 5 forkantm som alle strikkes i retstrik med dobbelt garn. God fornøjelse!

28.07.2015 - 15:08

Elizabeth wrote:

Used your pattern, just thought i would tell you thankyou it looks amazing. Second time round i have changed it a little my dayghter loved it

19.05.2015 - 17:02