DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 131-21
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-373 - EE-374
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
150 g color no 01, off white
50 g color no 46, medium gray

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
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SHAWL:
Width at top: approx. 150 cm / 59''
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
200 g color no 01, off white

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST: K sts on every row.

INCREASE TIP for hat:
Inc by working 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP for shawl:
To make the edge look nice slip 1st st on every row.

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HAT:
Ear flaps and the first rounds on the hat itself are worked with 2 strands off white, then continue with 1 strand.
Cast on 7 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with 2 strands Snow. Work in garter st - at the same time after 1 row, inc 1 st in each side on every other row a total of 3 times - see Increase tip = 13 sts.
On next row cast on 5 sts towards mid back = 18 sts.
K 1 row over all sts until 1 st remains (towards mid front) now inc 1 st with 1 YO before last st = 19 sts, K 1 row.
Put piece aside. Work another ear flap but reversed i.e.: be aware of what is front and what is back when inc.
Work the ear flaps on to same needle - beg mid back and cast on 16 new sts between ear flaps to forehead = 54 sts on needle.
Then work back and forth from mid back. Work 4 rows in garter st over all sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11 and finish the hat in the round from mid back with 1 strand. Work diagram M.1 and then finish in off white and stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'' - measured mid front - work next round as follows: * K 2 tog, K 7 *, repeat from *-* around. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: * K 2 tog, K 6 *, repeat from *-* around. Continue dec on every other round with 1 st less between every dec until 9 sts remain on needle. Hat measures approx. 26 cm / 10 1/4'' from mid front. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Sew tog garter st rows mid back in outermost loops of sts to make the seam invisible.
Make a large pompom in off white and some medium gray and fasten at the top.


SHAWL:
Cast on 3 sts on needle size 8 mm / US 11 with 1 strand Snow. Read KNITTING TIP. Work in stockinette st while at the same time inc 1 st at beg of every row from RS - inc by working 1 YO inside 1 edge st, P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) on next row to avoid holes. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 75 cm / 29½'', the shawl is worked half way.
Work 2 rows without inc. Now dec in the same side as inc by working the first 3 sts from RS as follows: 1 edge st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Continue and dec like this every row from RS until 3 sts remain - piece measures approx. 150 cm / 59''. Bind off.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = medium gray
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Gabriella wrote:

Buonasera, voglio realizzare lo scialle Himalaya con lana Snow (previsti g. 200 di lana) ma per sbaglio ne ho acquistata g. 250; sapreste dirmi di quanto posso allungare lo scialle se uso g. 250 di Snow ? (il vostro modello prevede larghezza in alto circa 150 cm) Grazie. Cordiali saluti Gabriella

02.12.2022 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Gabriella, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

03.12.2022 - 16:17

country flag Sonca wrote:

I don't understand the instructions for this hat. It states that the earlaps are worked with 2 thread of white then finish with 1 thread. Does this mean you are knitting both earlaps are the same time? Can you use circular needles to make the earlaps?

19.10.2022 - 03:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sonca, The ear flaps are worked with 2 strands to make them warmer, as is the first ridge on the hat itself. Each ear flap is worked back and forth separately to begin with, then they are placed on the same circular needle, stitches are cast on for the rest of the hat, which is continued first back and forth from mid-back then finished in the round. Happy knitting!

19.10.2022 - 06:55

country flag Nicoletta wrote:

Buonasera, non riesco a capire come fare i paraorecchie. Il gettato per l'aumento va fatto prima di iniziare il giro dopo il primo ferro una volta avviate le maglie? Non riesco proprio a fare il 2. a specchio. Quando inizio gli aumenti? Sempre prima del 2. ferro? In questo modo però non mi trovo col dritto del lavoro. Infine i 6 punti da avviare fra i paraorecchie vanno avviati attaccati a uno dei paraorecchie o separati? Vi ringrazio per la pazienza

02.09.2021 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera, gli aumenti iniziano dopo il promo giro e deve lavorare 1 gettato a entrambi i lati: inoltre, sul 1° paraorecchie deve avviare le maglie alla fine di un ferro dal diritto del lavoro, verso il dietro; per il secondo paraorecchie deve avviare le maglie alla fine di un ferro dal rovescio del lavoro e aumentare verso il centro davanti all'inizio di un ferro dal diritto del lavoro invece di un ferro dal rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

04.09.2021 - 21:15

country flag Estela wrote:

Solamente puedo tejer la orejera de la que explica el patron. Como podria tejer la otra orejera de lado contrario. Me podrian explicar porfavor. O hacer un tutorial porfavor. Gracias

30.11.2019 - 02:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Estela. Los dos orejeras se trabajan antes de empezar el gorro. Cuando se termina la primera orejera, dejar la labor en espera y empezar la otra orejera, pero trabajando los aumentos a la inversa. Lee atentamente el patrón.

30.11.2019 - 19:13

country flag Lindsay wrote:

Hello, how do I connect the ear pieces? Do the ear pieces gonnext to each other with the 16 new cast ons next, where the forehead will be? I was confused why the pattern kept referring to start mid back. Thank you!

23.11.2017 - 03:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lindsay, mid back will be the side of ear flaps where you cast on 5 sts on each ear flap - when joining both ear pieces together, start on mid back on 1st ear flap (sts on needle = the 5 sts cast on are at the beg of this row), then cast on 16 sts between both pieces for front piece and work 2nd ear flap (sts put aside, the 5 sts are at the end of piece). Happy knitting!

23.11.2017 - 08:38

country flag Valerie wrote:

After further review of the shawl pattern, it appears that on the edge, I should slip the first stitch (as if to knit, I'm assuming...it doesn't specify) and then YO. Is that a correct interpretation of that first tip and instruction? Thank you, again!

19.01.2016 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Valerie, that's correct - happy knitting!

19.01.2016 - 16:36

country flag Valerie wrote:

Your shawl pattern states: "inc 1 st at beg of every row from RS - inc by working 1 YO inside 1 edge st" - does this mean "create a yo at the first edge stitch on the RS"? Meaning, to me, on the RS, knit the first stitch, then YO. Correct? Then, on the next row (WS) P YO the YO that was created on the previous row. Thank you!

19.01.2016 - 11:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Valerie, that's right: you inc at the beg of every row from RS= 1 edge st, 1 YO, etc and on next row from WS work the YO into back of loop to avoid hole. Happy knitting!

19.01.2016 - 16:33

country flag Katy wrote:

Hello, thank you for your help. I still don't understand. I know it has to be cast on towards the back but how do I do that if my working yarn is on the other side. I would have to add a row and after that the ear flap is going to be longer than the first one. I was hoping that you could give me row by row instructions.

12.01.2016 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katy, work reversed will mean you will make on the opposite side what you made on one side for the firt piece. For 1st earfla, you cast on sts at the end of row from RS -towards back) for 2nd piece, you will cast on sts at the end of row from WS. So that both pieces will be reversed. Happy knitting!

13.01.2016 - 10:30

country flag Katy wrote:

Hello, Could you please give me a full instruction for making a second (reversed) ear flap? Thank you!

12.01.2016 - 01:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katy, to work the 2nd earflap reversed, cast on the sts towards back piece at the end of a row from WS (instead of at the end of a row from RS for 1st earflap), and inc towards mid front at the beg of a row from RS instead of at the beg of a row from WS. Happy knitting!

12.01.2016 - 10:02

country flag Alessandro wrote:

Buongiorno, ho bisogno di un chiarimento per gli aumenti a lavoro iniziato nel cappello. Date indicazione di un video per gli aumenti a lavoro iniziato, in cui illustrate due tecniche..La prima mi sembra non adatta perché fa un bordo molto morbido, la seconda tecnica non riesco ad applicarla perché ho il filo dalla parte opposta del lavoro...come consigliate di fare? grazie

27.02.2015 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Alessandro. La seconda tecnica presentata può essere usata per aumentare le m sia sul rovescio che sul diritto del lavoro. Le m vanno aumentate all'inizio del ferro. Ci riscriva se non abbiamo capito correttamente la sua domanda. Buon lavoro!

28.02.2015 - 23:07