DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Fjord Rose

Knitted DROPS hat and jumper with Norwegian pattern in ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 131-39
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-564-565
Yarn group A
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Size:
JUMPER: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
HAT: S/M - L/XL
Head circumference: 53/55 - 56/58 cm

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
JUMPER:
300-300-350-400-450-450 g colour no 0517, eco medium grey
50 g colour no 0501, eco light grey
50 g colour no 0100, off white
50 g colour no 3620, red
50 g colour no 8903, black
HAT:
50-50 g colour no 0517, eco medium grey
50-50 g colour no 0501, eco light grey
50-50 g colour no 0100, off white
50-50 g colour no 3620, red
50-50 g colour no 8903, black

JUMPER:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm and 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for rib.

HAT:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm (40 cm) - for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2 for jumper and diagrams M.3, M.4 and M.5 for hat. All diagrams are worked in stocking st.
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JUMPER:

BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 280-304-328-360-392-424 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with medium grey. Work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME K tog every 3rd and 4th st the entire round = 210-228-246-270-294-318 sts. Then work diagram M.1 one time vertically. Then continue with medium grey. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 15 cm, dec 14 sts evenly = 196-214-232-256-280-304 sts. Repeat dec when piece measures 19 cm = 182-200-218-242-266-290 sts. Insert a marker in each side (= 91-100-109-121-133-145 sts on front and back piece). When piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers. Repeat inc every 2 cm a total of 7 times = 210-228-246-270-294-318 sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm, cast off 12 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 6 sts on each side of both markers) = 186-204-222-246-270-294 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 68-72-72-72-80-80 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with medium grey. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-12-12-12-14-14 sts evenly = 60-60-60-60-66-66 sts. K 1 round, then work diagram M.1. When diagram M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with medium grey. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round adjust no of sts to 61-61-62-63-68-69. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. At the same time when piece measures 9-9-9-10-10-12 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve.
Repeat inc every 4-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm a total of 10-13-14-17-18-19 times = 81-87-90-97-104-107 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-47-47-47 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width) work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 12 sts mid under sleeve (= 6 sts on each side of marker) = 69-75-78-85-92-95 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 324-354-378-416-454-484 sts. Place a marker in the transition between back piece and left sleeve, round begins here.
K 1 round with medium grey while AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-12-18-20-22-16 sts evenly = 306-342-360-396-432-468 sts. Then work 0-2-5-1-4-7 rounds with medium grey before continuing with diagram M.2 – see diagram for size. When diagram M.2 has been worked vertically, 119-133-140-132-144-156 sts remain on needle. Work with medium grey until finished measurements.
Insert a marker mid back - then work an elevation in the back as follows: K 8 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten thread and P 16 sts back, turn, tighten thread and K 24 sts, turn, continue to work 8 sts more in stocking st for every turn until a total of 96-96-112-112-112-128 sts have been worked since last turning point, turn and K 1 round until mid back again. Then K 1 round while at the same time dec evenly to 116-120-124-128-132-140 sts.

NECK:
Switch to circular needle 2.5 mm, work rib = K 2/P 2 for approx. 10 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Fold the neck double towards WS and fasten on the inside.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and then on double pointed needles. Cast on 148-156 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with medium grey. K 1 round. Continue with rib = K 2/P 2. When rib measures 4-5 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 22-24 sts evenly = 126-132 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work diagram M.3.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When diagram M.3 has been worked, continue with diagram M.4 - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, dec 14-4 sts evenly = 112-128 sts.
When diagram M.4 has been worked, continue with diagram M.5 and dec according to pattern. When diagram M.5 has been worked, 14-16 sts remain on needle. Work 1 round with light grey while AT THE SAME TIME K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 7-8 sts. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts. Tighten tog and fasten.
The hat is approx. 25-26 cm high.

POMPOM:
Make 1 pompom of approx. 6 cm in diameter with medium grey. Sew the pompom on the top of the hat.

Diagram

symbols = medium grey
symbols = black
symbols = off white
symbols = red
symbols = light grey
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Susanne Quit wrote:

Moin, Ich habe eine Frage zum Stricken der Passe. Wenn ich Maschen Abnehme, verschiebt sich das Muster. Auf den Fotos sieht man das nicht! Insbesondere bei der roten Blume. Wie vermeide ich dies

18.02.2024 - 02:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Quitt, das Muster soll sich nicht verschieben, am besten setzen Sie Markierungen zwischen jedem Diagram/Rapport, so können Sie jeweils jedesmal die Maschenanzahl prüfen und das Diagram jeweils in der Breite wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.02.2024 - 09:14

country flag Antje wrote:

Hallo, ich bin mitlerweile mit dem Diagramm 2 der Passe fertig. Nun steht hier für die Erhöhung im Nacken ".......die Arbeit drehen, den Faden abziehen und.......". Was bedeutet "den Faden abziehen"? Es wir soooooein schöner Pulli, da möchte ich nun keinen Fehler mehr machen. Vielen Dank.

20.10.2023 - 07:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antje, in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie man eine Erhöhung strickt, bzw wie der Faden am Anfang der Reihe abgezogen wird - gerne können Sie auch irgendeine andere Methode für die verkürzten Reihen benutzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.10.2023 - 08:42

country flag Barbro Wangerud wrote:

Saknar M2 i stickbeskrivningen för tröja.

21.04.2023 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Barbro. Følg diagram M.2 og diagram ikon beskrivningen over målskissen. Om du f.eks strikker str. S har du 306 masker på pinnen og når du skal begynne å strikke M.2. Du starter nederst til høyre og 1 rapport av M.2 = 18 masker. Altså du må strikke 17 rapporter av M.2 omgangen rundt = 306 masker. Når du har strikket M.2 1 gang i høyden har du også felt masker, slik at nå skal du ha 119 masker på pinnen. mvh DROPS Design

24.04.2023 - 13:56

country flag Karin Peter wrote:

Ich möchte das Garn der Anleitung - "Alpaca" - durch das Garn "Polaris" ersetzen. Ist das möglich und wie muss ich das machen?

08.02.2023 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Peter, Ihre Maschenprobe mit Polaris wird ganz verschieden sein, am besten benutzen Sie eine Anleitung, die für DROPS Polaris geschrieben wurde, oder diejenigen, wo Polaris gestrickt werden könnte (siehe hier - Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.02.2023 - 09:37

country flag Antje wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke zum ersten Mal nach so einer Anleitung. Ab welcher Stelle werden die cm gemessen? In der Anleitung heißt es: ...nach 15cm .... abnehmen......nach 19 cm wiederholen .....nach 23cm aufnehmen... nach 40cm je 12 Maschen abketten... Zählen die 15cm ab dem Anfang, dem Bündchen oder dem Ende von M1? Die weiteren Maße, gelten die dann ebenfalls ab der Stelle oder beginnen die 19cm dann erst nachdem ich die 15cm gestrickt habe (also sind es dann in Summe 34cm)

16.12.2022 - 20:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antje, messen Sie die Arbeit von der Anschlagskante, so haben Sie die gesamte Höhe/Länge, mit Bündchen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.12.2022 - 08:44

country flag Monique wrote:

Er staat in de beschrijving van de pas: “ Na telpatroon M.2 zijn er 119-133-140-132-144-156 st over op de nld. Brei met grijs tot het werk klaar is.” . Wat wordt er bedoeld met “tot het werk klaar is”?

23.10.2022 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Je breit nu het werk verder met grijs en niet meer in het telpatroon. Je volgt wel gewoon verder het patroon voor de ronding midden achter, de halsboord, etc. Maar alles dus in grijs breien.

26.10.2022 - 10:14

country flag Monique wrote:

Goedendag ik zou zo graag antwoord krijgen op mijn vraag 😊🙏🏻omdat ik anders (nog) niet verder kan breien: Er staat bij de trui “Minder bij een hoogte van 15 cm 14 st gelijkmatig = 196-214-232-256-280-304 st.” Is dat 15 cm na het boord of is dit inclusief boord totale hoogte? Groetjes, Monique

05.08.2022 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Dit is altijd vanaf de opzetrand (tenzij anders aangegeven)

06.08.2022 - 09:58

country flag Monique wrote:

Er staat bij de trui “Minder bij een hoogte van 15 cm 14 st gelijkmatig = 196-214-232-256-280-304 st.” Is dat 15 cm na het boord of is dit inclusief boord totale hoogte? Groetjes, Monique

02.08.2022 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Dit is vanaf de opzetrand, dus het gaat om de totale hoogte, inclusief de boord.

06.08.2022 - 11:49

country flag Monique wrote:

Er staat bij de trui “Minder bij een hoogte van 15 cm 14 st gelijkmatig = 196-214-232-256-280-304 st.” Is dat 15 cm na het boord of is dit inclusief boord totale hoogte? Groetjes, Monique

26.07.2022 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Dit is vanaf de opzetrand, dus inclusief de boord.

07.08.2022 - 13:59

country flag Heidi Strotkamp wrote:

Hallöchen, ich würde diesen wunderschönen Pullover gerne als Jacke stricken. Könnt ihr mir da behilflich sein? Anleitung? Viele Grüße Heidi Strotkamp

20.06.2022 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Strotkamp, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen, aber hier finden Sie alle unsere Anleitungen für Jacken mit Nordische Muster, sicher kann das Ihnen helfen oder inspirieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.06.2022 - 08:50