DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 90-17
DROPS design: Pattern no R-448
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
450-450-500-550-600 g colour no 19, light grey
and use: DROPS Glitter from Garnstudio
a left-over of colour no 02, silver (for neck)

DROPS Needle size 3.5 and 4.5 mm.
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm (for neckline).
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide. 20 stitches x 26 rows with needle size 4.5 mm and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: 3 repeats in width of M.2B and 2 repeats in height = approx. 13 x 11 cm.

Ridge/garter stitch (back and forth on needle):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern seen from the right side.

Decrease tip (for neck):
Decrease on inside of 2 edge stitches, which are worked as follows from the edge: 1 stitch garter stitch and 1 stitch stocking stitch. All decreases are worked from the right side.
Decrease as follows after the 2 edge stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over. Decrease as follows before the 2 edge stitches: K2 together.
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Front piece: Cast on 75-83-91-99-107 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 3.5 mm and Muskat. Work 2 ridges, Change to needle size 4.5 mm and continue with stocking stitch. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 10 cm, work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch, 5 stitches stocking stitch, M.1 over the next 64-72-80-88-96 stitches, 4 stitches stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch. When M.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue with M.2 as follows (from the right side): 1 edge stitch, M.2A (= 5 stitches), M.2B over the next 64-72-80-88-96 stitches, M.2C (= 4 stitches) and 1 edge stitch. At the same time, when piece measures 12 cm increase 1 stitch in each side every 12-12-12-8-8 cm a total of 2-2-2-3-3 times = 79-87-95-105-113 stitches - the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm, decrease 2-2-6-7-11 stitches in each side for armholes = 75-83-83-91-91 stitches, continue the pattern with 1 edge stitch in each side - NOTE: Make sure the number of stitches stays the same, i.e. the number of stitches knitted together must equal the number of yarn overs made, the stitches which do not fit into a repeat of the pattern are worked in stocking stitch. When piece measures approx. 38-40-42-44-46 cm, cast off the middle stitch for neck and each part is finished separately. Place half the stitches on 1 thread.

Side 1: = 37-41-41-45-45 stitches. Continue to decrease to neck every 2nd row - see Decrease tip: 1 stitch 12-12-12-13-13 times = 25-29-29-32-32 stitches left on shoulder. Continue the pattern with 1 edge stitch in the side - NOTE: Make sure the number of stitches stays the same as described earlier and the stitches which do not fit into a repeat of the pattern are worked in stocking stitch. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm cast off.

Side 2: Work as for side 1, but reversed - NOTE: Row 1 is worked from mid front - start by picking up 1 stitch in the cast-off stitch and work this together with the first stitch on needle. This is done to avoid a "jump" at the bottom of the neck.

Back piece: Cast on and work as for front piece. Decrease for armholes as for front piece and continue working until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm. Now cast off the middle 23-23-23-25-25 stitches for neck. Then decrease 1 stitch on next row towards neck - see Decrease tip = 25-29-29-32-32 stitches left on each shoulder. Continue the pattern with 1 edge stitch in the side until piece measures the same as the front piece, cast off.

Sleeve: Cast on 50-50-50-58-58 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 3.5 mm and Muskat. Work 2 ridges, change to needle size 4.5 mm and continue with stocking stitch. When piece measures 10 cm, work M.1 with 1 edge stitch in each side to finished length. At the same time, when piece measures 10-11-12-10-10 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side every 3-2.5-2-2.5-2 cm a total of 14-16-18-16-18 times = 78-82-86-90-94 stitches - the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch until they fit into a repeat of the pattern. When sleeve measures 51-51-50-49-47 cm insert 1 marker thread in each side. When piece measures 52-52-53-53-53 cm cast off all stitches.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Neck: Crochet 1 round of chain-spaces around the whole neck with hook size 4 mm and 1 strand Muskat + 2 strands Glitter as follows: 1 double crochet in first stitch, * 9 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches/rows, 1 double crochet in next stitch/row *, repeat from *-* and finish with 9 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round.
Sew side seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the sleeves together as far as the marker thread inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew in sleeves - marker thread on sleeve should meet the side seam on the body.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = K2 together, 1 yarn over
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over.
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K2 together, pass slipped stitch over, 1 yarn over
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Barbro Johansson wrote:

Stickar storlek s 450g \r\ngarnet räckte inte fattas 20gram tråkigt

03.07.2022 - 16:52

country flag Carla wrote:

Tips minderen (voor het afkanten voor de hals): De minderingen komen steeds op de goede kant van het werk. Vlak naast de 2 kantst minderen. Deze 2 st worden als volgt gebreid: 1 ribbelst en 1 tricotst. Na de 2 kantst minderen als volgt: haal 1 st r af, 1 r, haal de afgeh st daarover. Voor de 2 kantst minderen als volgt: 2 st r samen. Dit gedeelte begrijp ik niet. Kan dat misschien stap voor stap heel duidelijk uitgelegd worden? Ik kan nu niet verder

15.05.2020 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carla,

Als je mindert voor de halslijn doe je dit steeds als je aan de goede kant breit. Het komt er dan op neer dat je bij de rechter hals eerst de 2 kantsteken breit (omdat de naald dan begint aan de kant van de hals) en minder je door 1 steek af te halen, 1 steek te breien en de afgehaalde steek over te halen. Bij de rechter schouder begin je aan de schouderzijde als je op een naald aan de goede kant bent en brei je tot 4 steken voor het einde. Dan minder je door 2 steken samen te breien en tot slot brei je de 2 kantsteken.

19.05.2020 - 13:48

country flag Carla wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over het telpatroon. De eerste rij blokjes is dat alleen de heengaande naald of de heen en teruggaande naald samen. Of wel moet ik de eerste regel / rij als heengaande naald breien en dan de tweede regel/rij als teruggaande naald? Ik kom er niet goed uit.

02.05.2020 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carla,

De eerste (en alle andere oneven rijen) is altijd de heengaande naald, op de goede kant. De tweede (en alle andere even rijen) is de teruggaande naald, aan de verkeerde kant.

05.05.2020 - 12:05

country flag Ines wrote:

Sorry, meine Frage hat sich von alleine beantwortet. Es werden 3 M re zusammengestrickt. Wer richtig lesen kann, ist klar im Vorteil 🤣

22.08.2018 - 09:38

country flag Ines wrote:

Bei mir geht das Muster M1 am Vorderteil nicht auf. In der 3. Reihe verschiebt es sich jeweils um eine Masche. Könnte da ein Fehler drin versteckt sein? Mfg

21.08.2018 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ines, das Muster sieht nicht falsch aus. Das Muster geht über 8 M und die Maschenzahlen für das Vorderteil sind alle durch 8 teilbar. Es sollte also passen. Vielleicht markieren Sie sich jeden Mustersatz mit Markierungsfäden, damit Sie erkennen, wo jeder Mustersatz beginnt und endet. Beachten Sie, dass Sie am Anfang vor dem Mustersatz M.1 6 Maschen stricken und am Ende nach allen Mustersätzen 5 Maschen. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

27.08.2018 - 10:38

Tineke wrote:

Nee, de rechterschouderkant. Aan de gk, vanaf de V-hals, naar links breien. Halverwege nld 11, moet je 1 steek afkanten voor de V-hals. Hierdoor wordt het M2B motief van 64 st. onderbroken. Moet ik nu, na de te breien kantsteek voor de rechterhelft, verder in M2B (=7 st.) vervolgens een, volledige, M2B, Dan M2C en M2A of een aantal tricotsteken dan M2B, M2C en M2A of beginnen met M2A. Of eerst een aantal tricotsteken en dan M2A.... Ik heb al van alles geprobeerd. maar kom niet goed uit.

25.07.2016 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Tineke. Ja, het patroon wordt onderbroken. Maar je kant af, de eerste st van de nld is dan de nieuwe kantsteken en vervolgens brei je door volgens het patroon zoals eerder, je begint dan later in het patroon, maar je moet het patroon niet verschuiven - je breit door zodat de st in hetpatroon netjes boven elkaar komen.

26.07.2016 - 16:03

Tineke wrote:

Hallo, ben ik nog een keer. Willen jullie alsjeblieft antwoorden. Ik kan niet verder omdat ik niet weet of ik eerst een paar tricotsteken moet breien, omdat nld. 11 onderbroken is door de afgekante steek voor de V-hals of dat ik na de kantsteek, aan halszijde, gelijk moet beginnen met M2A, M2B of M2C. Ik brei de Small versie. Heeelp! Bedankt! Tineke

25.07.2016 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Tineke. Ik zie dat je vraag is op zaterdag gesteld, en ik werk niet in het weekend. Ik zal in de loop van de komende dagen ernaar kijken.

25.07.2016 - 10:06

Tineke wrote:

Hallo, Ik hoop dat jullie me kunnen helpen. Ik ben bezig met de 2e helft van het voorpand. Ik kom er niet uit omdat ik niet weet hoe het "in spiegelbeeld" breien moet. Met welke steken moet ik dan beginnen? De splitsing was bij mij in naald 11 van het M2 motief. Ik moet nu vanuit het midden, aan de goede kant, de linkerkant op, dus als het ware naar het einde van de naald. Alvast hartelijk dank! Tineke

23.07.2016 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Tineke. Ik kan het moeilijk precies uitleggen zonder jouw werk te zien, maar het is vrij simpel. Je minderde in de eerst helft (= rechterschouder??) aan het begin van de nld (aan de halszijde / goede kant) en vervolgens heb je doorgebreid volgens het patroon over de overige st. Als je nu de linkerchouder breit, moet je dus minderen aan het begin van de nld aan de halszijde / verkeerde kant. Je breit nog steeds door volgens het patroon zoals de st zich voordoen.

25.07.2016 - 16:11

country flag Helga Krämer wrote:

Hallo, sind in den Diagrammen Hin- und Rückreihe aufgeführt oder nur Hinreihe

14.02.2013 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Krämer, in unseren Diagrammen sind immer Hin-und Rück-R dargestellt.

15.02.2013 - 13:37

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Yes. It should say: 1 Umschlag, 1 M. re. abheben, 2 re. zusammen, die abgehobene über die gestrickte ziehen, 1 Umschlag. I will fix i right away.

09.02.2011 - 10:24