DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lava

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Norwegian pattern in ”Nepal”, ”Alpaca” and ”Fabel”. Size: S to XXXL.

DROPS 131-23
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-058
Yarn group C and A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
Colour no 0506m, dark grey:
500-550-600-700-800-900 g
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 3770, dark pink:
100-100-100-100-150-150 g
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 310p, sunset:
100-100-100-100-150-150 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Nepal = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 – all diagrams are worked in stocking st and show 1 repetition of pattern.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 192-204-228-240-264-288 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Nepal. Work 1 round in stocking st, continue with rib = K 3/P 3 for 8 cm. Then work 1 round in stocking st while at the same time K tog every 5th and 6th st = 160-170-190-200-220-240 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 5mm, insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 80-85-95-100-110-120 sts (these mark the sides). Work 1 round in stocking st, then work diagram M.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After diagram M.1, continue in stocking st with Nepal – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers. Repeat dec every 3 cm a total of 6 times = 136-146-166-176-196-216 sts. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, inc 1 st on each side of markers. Repeat inc every 4 cm a total of 3 times = 148-158-178-188-208-228 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts in each side on next round (i.e. 4-4-5-5-6-6 sts on each side of markers) = 132-142-158-168-184-204 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-48-54-54-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 thread Nepal. Work 1 round in stocking st, continue with rib = K 3/P 3 for 6 cm. Continue to work 1 round in stocking st while at the same time dec 8-8-4-4-10-10 sts evenly = 40-40-50-50-50-50 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm, insert a marker at beg of round. Work 1 round in stocking st, then work diagram M.1, continue in stocking st with Nepal. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker under sleeve. Repeat inc every 3-3-4-3-3-2½ cm a total of 11-12-9-11-12-14 times = 62-64-68-72-74-78 sts. When piece measures 46 cm, cast off 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 4-4-5-5-6-6 sts on each side of marker) = 54-56-58-62-62-66 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 240-254-274-292-308-336 sts. K 1 round with Nepal while at the same time dec 10-24-21-16-9-14 sts evenly = 230-230-253-276-299-322 sts. Work 0-1-3-5-7-9 rounds with Nepal. Then work diagram M.2 (it looks nicer if 1 star is mid front). After diagram M.2, continue with diagram M.3. After diagram M.3, 100-100-110-120-130-140 sts remain on needle. Finish piece with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Fabel. Work 1 round in stocking st while at the same time dec 20-16-22-24-30-36 sts evenly = 80-84-88-96-100-104 sts. Yoke measures approx. 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm vertically. Insert a marker mid back and work until marker. Then work an elevation in the back as follows: K 8 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten thread and P 16 sts back, turn, tighten thread and K 24 sts, turn, continue to work 8 sts more in stocking st for every turn until a total of 64-64-64-80-80-80 sts have been worked from last turning point, turn and K 1 round until mid back again.

NECK:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. K 1 round while at the same time inc 10-12-14-6-8-10 sts evenly = 90-96-102-102-108-114 sts. Continue with rib = K 3/P 3 for 10 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

Diagram

symbols = 1 thread Nepal
symbols = 1 thread Fabel and 1 thread Alpaca
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Lene wrote:

Skal man starte midt bagpå når arbejdet samles til bærestykket? Kan man undgå et hak i mønsteret der hvor man skifter omgang? hvis nej kan man så bruge samme teknik som når man skal undgå hak når der strikkes striber rundt

28.02.2022 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, ja omgangen starter midt bagpå og du kan bruge samme teknik for at hakke skal blive så lille som muligt :)

02.03.2022 - 12:03

country flag Carlin wrote:

Rondbreien met lijf beginnen.hoeveel patronen in pas

25.02.2022 - 11:38

country flag Carlin wrote:

Grundl op 7-8 grijs met witte bloemen in t grijs . Hoeveel patronen in de pas

25.02.2022 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carlin,

Helaas begrijp ik je vraag niet helemaal. Als je de mouwen en het lijf samen op de naalden hebt gezet, heb je 230-230-253-276-299-322 steken. Je breit dan patroon M.2. Dit patroon heeft 23 steken in de breit (je leest de telpatronen van onder naar boven), dus er komen 10-10-11-12-13-14 herhalingen van het patroon in de breedte.

26.02.2022 - 15:36

country flag Agnès Henray wrote:

Bonjour je ne trouve pas dans tous vos modèles les explications des jambière ou des chaussettes qui vont avec ce modèle. Et d'autre part, j'aimerais savoir s'il existe un modèle de bonnet avec ce modèle ? Merci de votre réponse. Bien cordialement Agnès

18.02.2022 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Agnès, retrouvez les chaussettes assorties au pull ici; nous n'avons pas de modèle de bonnet assorti à ce modèle précisément; vous pourrez retrouver tous nos bonnets de type nordique ici. Bon tricot!

18.02.2022 - 14:28

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry. Mam pytanie, czy dłuższe nitki we wzorze żakardowym mam od spodu trzeba związywać czy zostawić nitkę biegnącą w całości? Czy pozostawiona nitka nie będzie się ciągnąć?

20.04.2021 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno, nie powinno się pozostawiać biegnących z tyłu nitek dłuższych od 3 oczek. Jak to robić znajdziesz TUTAJ - patrz rząd 13 schematu. Pozdrawiamy!

20.04.2021 - 10:59

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bei der Druckversion werden die Diagramme nicht mitgedruckt, habe aber schon einen workaround für mich gefunden

19.12.2020 - 19:49

country flag Marian Green wrote:

Hello, I have read through the instructions which seem clear apart from the recommendation to place a star centre front. Does this occur automatically or do I have to work it out?

09.11.2020 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Green, read more how to center a diagram here. Happy knitting!

10.11.2020 - 09:29

country flag Pia Wiingreen wrote:

Hej. Kan jeg strikke en lav halskant ved at lukke af efter forhøjningerne bagpå?

13.04.2020 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. Det kan du, men du bør ha en liten halskant iallefall. God Fornøyelse!

17.04.2020 - 14:44

country flag HOURDEBAIGT wrote:

Bonjour. Pensez vous que je peux tricoter ce pull tout en Népal y compris le jacquard? Merci

31.10.2019 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hourdebaigt, tout à fait, il vous faudra juste convertir la quantité Alpaca + Fabel tricotées ensemble en Nepal - voir ici. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 14:22

country flag Heike wrote:

Wie nehme ich die Maschen an der Passe ab, wenn ich das Muster stricke? Kommt das Muster nicht durcheinander, wenn ich gleichmäßig abnehmen soll? Ich habe gerade keine Ahnung wie ich das hinbekommen soll, eine Passe von unten Stricken, mache ich das erste Mal. LG

28.09.2019 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Heike, die Abnahmen sind in den Diagrammen M.2 und M.3 gezeichnet, dh z.B. bei der 4. Runde in M.2 werden Sie die 2 letzten M in jedem M.2 rechts zusammenstricken = 1 Masche abgenonmmen = in M.2 werden insgesamt 3 Maschen in jedem M.2 abgenommen, im M.3 werden insgesamt 5 Maschen in jedem M.3 abgenommen (= 5 Maschen bleiben in jedem M.3 wenn Diagramm fertig ist). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.09.2019 - 08:48