DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
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Rosegarden

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan sleeves and lace pattern on neck and cuffs in ”Delight”, ”Kid-Silk” and ”Alpaca”. Size: S to XXXL.

DROPS 132-13
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-068
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-120-130 cm / 33''-36¼''-39 3/8''-43 3/8''-47¼''-51''
Full length: 76-78-80-82-84-85 cm / 30"-30 3/4"-31½"-32 1/4"-33"-33½"

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
Color no 05, beige/gray/pink mix: 250-300-300-350-350-400 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 05, heather: 125-150-150-175-200-200 g
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 3800, old rose: 100-100-100-150-150-150 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm /US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 – for garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

NEW BALL TIP:
To make the color transitions in Delight pretty when switching ball, it is important to find a ball that starts with the same color last ball ended with.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – the diagram shows 1 repetition of the pattern. Because of inc and dec in the diagram, every repetition of the pattern alternates with 8 and 9 sts on every other round.

RAGLAN:
Dec as follows from RS: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of sts instead of front), P 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), P 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 178-192-208-226-244-262 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work in GARTER ST for 8 cm / 3 1/8'' - see explanation above! Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 89-96-104-113-122-131 sts (these marks the sides). Continue in stockinette st – READ YARN CHANGE TIP! At the same time when piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st on each side of markers in the sides. Repeat dec every 2½ cm / 7/8'' a total of 11 times = 134-148-164-182-200-218 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18'', inc 1 st on each side of markers in the sides. Repeat inc every 4 cm / 1½'' a total of 4 times = 150-164-180-198-216-234 sts.
When piece measures 57-58-59-60-61-62 cm / 22½''-22¾''-23¼''-23 5/8''-24''-24 3/8'', bind off 10 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 5 sts on each side of both markers) = 130-144-160-178-196-214 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-40-40-48-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. K 1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round. Then work diagram M.1 two times vertically. P 1 round. The piece measures approx. 11 cm / 4 3/8''. Switch to 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Continue in stockinette st – insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).
At the same time when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 4-3-2½-3½-3-2½ cm / 1½"-1 1/8"-7/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8" a total of 9-11-13-10-12-14 times = 58-62-66-68-72-76 sts. When piece measures 47 cm / 18½'' in all sizes, bind off 10 sts mid under sleeve = 48-52-56-58-62-66 sts remain on needle.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 226-248-272-294-320-346 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers). Continue in stockinette st – at the same time on 3rd round, beg to dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Dec on every other round a total of 18 times in all sizes, then on every round 0-2-4-6-8-10 times.
At the same time when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'', slip the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Now work piece back and forth from mid front – at the same time bind off 1 st at beg of every row from neck until raglan dec is finished.
When all dec are done, there are approx. 52-58-64-70-78-88 sts on needle.

NECK:
Switch to 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (continue on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7). Knit up approx. 30 to 36 sts at the front of neck (including sts on stitch holder) = approx. a total of 82 to 124 sts.
K 1 round while at the same time dec evenly to 80-82-86-88-92-94 sts. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Then K 1 round while at the same time inc evenly to 112-112-120-120-128-128 sts. Then work diagram M.1 four times vertically. Then K 1 round while at the same time dec evenly to 98-98-104-104-110-110 sts. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Loosely bind off with K. The neck is approx. 23 cm / 9'' high.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves .


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = twisted K, i.e. work in back loop of st
instead of front
symbols = 2 YO between 2 sts, on next row
slip 1 YO off the needle and
K other YO
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K,
K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Birgit wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich möchte dieses Modell von oben nach unten stricken, da ich weniger Wolle (Alpaca & KidSilk) habe und man beim stricken den Pulli schon anprobieren kann. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit es umzurechnen? Leider habe ich keine andere Anleitung für einen eng anliegenden und taillierten Raglanpulli in Garngruppe C (A +A) gefunden. Oder habe ich diese übersehen? Lieben Dank und Gruß, Birgit

29.04.2023 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, sicher kann Ihnen aber Ihr Wollladen gerne weiterhelfen, auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.05.2023 - 08:30

country flag Sue Marsh wrote:

I have downloaded the Rosegarden pattern but I don’t understand the diagram M1 showing how to to knit the pattern. Thank you.

17.03.2021 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Marsh, see previous answer below - do not hesitate to make a swatch of the diagram to help you - remember you have to work it in the round, there will be pattern (dec and yarn overs on every round). Happy knitting!

18.03.2021 - 09:28

country flag Sue Marsh wrote:

I've downloaded the Rosegarden pattern by drops design. I am using alpaca bris yarn. I am understanding the pattern mostly apart from the diagram M1 graph. It doesn’t make sense to me. Please can you explain it. Thank you for your time.

17.03.2021 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Marsh, this lesson explains how to read a knitting diagram, ie start on the right side and read from bottom up every row (since diagram is worked in the round). Repeat the 8 sts on first round (number of sts will vary between 8 and 9 depending on the rows). Happy knitting!

18.03.2021 - 09:27

country flag Ann Theite wrote:

Om de naald minderen, is dat dan een rij minderen en een rij niet?

18.06.2019 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ann,

Klopt helemaal; de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet.

18.06.2019 - 19:18

country flag Monique wrote:

Dank, dit had ik inmiddels begrepen!

26.05.2019 - 10:05

country flag Monique Boshouwers wrote:

Waarom word er bij de uitleg van de raglan gesproken over goede kant en verkeerde kant? Alles wordt toch in de rondte gebreid? Of is het de bedoeling dat ik elke 2e naald beschouw als de 'verkeerde' kant? Alvast dank voor de uitleg!

24.05.2019 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Het is ook aangegeven hoe je mindert aan de verkeerde kant omdat je bij de pas op een gegeven moment steken afkant voor de ronding van de hals en daarna heen en weer verder moet breien.

26.05.2019 - 10:00

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Grazie!

13.12.2018 - 10:38

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Scusate se vi chiedo ancora un piccolo aiuto.Per le diminuzioni del collo passo le 18 m centrali su un fermamaglie .Ma le m centrali sono quelle che vanno dalsegno a segno sul davanti o comprendono anche le maniche? Grazie

12.12.2018 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta. Deve prendere le 18 m centrali, tra i due segni per il davanti. Buon lavoro!

13.12.2018 - 09:31

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Grazie x il vostro aiuto!

12.12.2018 - 14:53

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buonasera, non mi è chiaro il carré Tg S cioè : Ho diminuito x 18 volte il raglan. Tot m rimaste 122 m.poi devo mettere in attesa 18 m x lo scollo.Devono rimanere 52 m.Ma quante volte devo diminuire x lo scollo e quante m? Grazie!

11.12.2018 - 21:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta. Non viene indicato il numero esatto di diminuzioni per lo scollo. Mentre diminuisce per il raglan, quando il lavoro misura 68 cm, mette in attesa le 18 m centrali sul davanti; continua poi a diminuire per il raglan e in più diminuisce 1 maglia all’inizio di ogni ferro per lo scollo. Procede fino ad aver completato le diminuzioni per il raglan. Con il raglan diminuisce in tutto 8 m x 18 volte = 144 m. Rimangono 226-144 = 82. Toglie le 18 m centrali: 82-18= 64. Per lo scollo diminuisce circa 12 maglie (6 per lato). Se il numero di m non corrisponde esattamente, può aggiustarlo quando riprende le m per il collo. Buon lavoro!

12.12.2018 - 13:44