DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Snowflake

Set consists of: Crochet hat / Santa hat and mittens in DROPS Snow or DROPS Andes with flower in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 131-18
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-380-381
Yarn group E
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HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L
Head circumference: 56/58 - 58/60 cm

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100-150 g colour no 08, red
And use: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 7 mm – or size needed to get 11 htr = 10 cm in breadth.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - for flower.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm - for crochet border.
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MITTENS:
Size: S/M - M/L

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 08, red
And use: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 7 mm – or size needed to get 11 htr = 10 cm in breadth.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - for flower.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm - for crochet border.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.70 £ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
HAT:
WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last st on the round, continue to next round with 1 st in next st (= first st on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last st and first st on the round, move the marker upwards.
NOTE! Work htr in the back loop of st as follows: Make a YO, insert the hook through back loop of next htr, get the thread, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on the hook.
WORK BACK AND FORTH:
From RS: Work 2 ch (not counted as 1 st), work htr in back loop of all sts, turn piece.
From WS: Work 2 ch (not counted as 1 st), work htr in front loop of all sts, turn piece.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 htr by working 2 htr in 1 htr.

CROCHET 2 HTR TOG:
From RS: * Make a YO, insert hook in back loop of next st, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 5 sts on hook.
From WS: * Make a YO, insert hook in front loop of next st, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 5 sts on hook.
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HAT:
Worked in the round top down. Work 4 ch with Snow on hook size 7 mm. Form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: 2 ch, 8 htr in ch-ring - Read work in the round in a circle above, round beg mid back.
ROUND 2: Work 2 htr in every htr - Read increase tip above = 16 htr.
ROUND 3: * Work 1 htr, inc 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 htr.
ROUND 4: * Work 2 htr, inc 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 htr.
ROUND 5: * Work 3 htr, inc 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 htr.
ROUND 6: Work 1 htr in every htr = 40 htr.
ROUND 7: * Work 4 htr, inc 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 htr.
ROUND 8: Work 1 htr in every htr = 48 htr.
ROUND 9: * Work 5 htr, inc 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 htr.
ROUND 10: Work 1 htr in every htr = 56 htr.
Size M/L:
ROUND 11: * Work 13 htr, inc 1 htr in next htr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 htr.
ROUND 12: Work 1 htr in every htr = 60 htr.
Both sizes: 56-60 htr. Continue with 1 htr in every htr until piece measures 21-22 cm vertically, finish round with 1 sl st in next st. Cut and fasten the thread.

EAR FLAP:
Worked back and forth on hook size 7 mm with Snow.
ROW 1 (= RS): from RS join in the 9th-10th st from last round (counted from mid back), make 2 ch, work 1 htr in same st, work 1 htr in the next 9 sts = 10 htr in all size - Read work back and forth above, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 1 htr in every htr = 10 htr.
ROW 3: Work 2 ch, skip 1st st, work 1 htr in next st and then 1 htr in every st until 2 sts remain on row, skip next st and work 1 htr in last st = 8 htr.
Repeat 3rd row 3 more times (= 2 sts dec on every row, work in back loop of st from RS, work in front loop of st from WS). 2 sts remain on row, work these 2 sts tog - See explanation above.
Work another ear flap the same way in the other side of hat.

FLOWER:
Work with 1 thread Karisma on hook size 4 mm as follows: Work 5 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. * Work 10 ch, 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook, 1 sl st in each of the remaining ch, 1 sl st in the ring *. Repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, cut and fasten the thread. Sew the flower with Karisma to mid front of hat.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work from RS with 2 threads Karisma on hook size 6 mm as follows: start mid back, work dc (1 dc in every st/row) around the hat and ear flaps, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.

TIES AND TASSELS:
1 tassel = cut 8 threads Snow and 12 threads Karisma of 15 cm. Fold the thread double and tie one thread Karisma around the tassel (approx. 2 cm from the top), fasten tightly.
1 tie = cut 1 thread Snow and 4 threads Karisma of approx. 25 cm. Fasten the threads at the end of the ear flap, braid the threads (2 threads Karisma + 2 threads Karisma + 1 thread Snow) tog. Make a knot when the braid measures approx. 12 cm (or desired length), and pull the thread ends through the tassel. Make another tassel and tie and fasten to the ear flap in the other side.

POMPOM:
Make 1 pompom of approx. 8 cm in diameter with approx. half Snow and half Karisma. Sew the pompom on the top of the hat.
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MITTENS:
WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last st on the round, continue to next round with 1 st in next st (= first st on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last st and first st on the round, move the marker upwards.
NOTE! Work htr in the back loop of st as follows: Make a YO, insert the hook through back loop of next htr, get the thread, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on the hook.

DECREASE TIP:
Crochet 2 htr tog as follows: * Make a YO, insert hook in back loop of next st, get the thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 5 sts on hook.
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RIGHT MITTEN:
Worked in the round bottom up. Work 22-24 ch with Snow on hook size 7 mm. Form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Work 2 ch (not counted as 1st htr), then work 1 htr in every ch the entire round = 22-24 htr - Read work in the round in a circle above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When piece measures 8-9 cm, make an opening for thumb as follows: Work 4-5 ch at beg of round, skip the first 4-5 sts, work 1 htr in next st and the remaining sts on the round = 18-19 htr. On next round, work 1 htr in every ch from previous round = 22-24 htr. Continue in the round until piece measures 19-20 cm, or to desired length (approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements). Now dec by working 2 htr tog the entire round = 11-12 htr - Read decrease tip above. Repeat dec on next round (work 1 htr in the remaining htr in size S/M) = 6-6 htr. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten tightly.

THUMB:
Join at the opening for thumb and work 2 ch (not counted as 1st htr), work 8-10 htr around the opening. Work in the round with 1 htr in every htr for 3-4 rounds. (or to desired length). On next round, dec by working 2 htr tog = 4-5 htr remain. Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten tightly.

FLOWER:
Work with 1 thread Karisma on hook size 4 mm as follows: Work 5 ch and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. * Work 10 ch, 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook, 1 sl st in each of the remaining ch, 1 sl st in the ring *. Repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, cut and fasten the thread. Sew the flower with Karisma to mid front of mitten.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work with 2 threads Karisma on hook size 6 mm as follows: join at the bottom edge, work 1 dc in every st the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc, cut and fasten the thread.

LEFT MITTEN:
Work as right mitten but work opening for thumb as follows: When piece measures 8-9 cm, make an opening for thumb as follows: Work 1 htr in every st until 4-5 sts remain on round, work 4-5 ch and skip the last 4-5 sts = 18-19 htr. On next round, work 1 htr in every ch from previous round = 22-24 htr.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Kati wrote:

Superlahe müts tuleb, aga ma üsna palju muutsin neid kahandamise-kasvatamise kohti, et väga suur ei tuleks. samas kui põhimõte selge, siis pole enam peamurdmist, kuidas küll seda lahedat kõrvadega mütsi teha :)

05.05.2013 - 19:14

country flag Gi87 wrote:

Love, love, love this pattern but having lots of trouble with the thumbs! Any tips for crocheting around the area greatly appreciated.

03.02.2013 - 22:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gi87, when mitten measured 3 1/8"-3 1/2", you made an opening for thumb crocheting 4-5 ch and skipping the first 4-5 sts. This is the hole for the thumb, you join thread there and crochet in hdc around the opening starting with 2 ch (does not count as 1st hdc). Happy crocheting !

04.02.2013 - 10:22

country flag Helen wrote:

Does this pattern run small I am following the gauge and it seems small

28.06.2012 - 03:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Helen, do you have the indicated tension of 11 hdc = 10 cm ? Happy crocheting !

06.12.2012 - 11:05

country flag Helen wrote:

Does this pattern run small I am following the gauge and it seems small

28.06.2012 - 03:35

country flag Sofie Snauwaert wrote:

Ik heb problemen met de oorflappen.Voorste of achterste lus,is dat gezien vanuit de kant dat je haakt of vanuit de goede kant? toer 1 begin je met 2l, net zoals de andere toeren,enkel toer2begin je zonder 2l, waardoor je in het begin een schuine en een rechte kant hebt(rechte kant achteraan Maar als je de andere flap maakt,dan komt ofwel de rechte kant vooraan (goede kant begint in 19e steek) of begin je aan de verkeerde kant(in de 9e steek),maar dan krijg je toch 2 verschillende oorflappen?

05.03.2012 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

In de voorste of achterste lus gezien zoals u het werk houdt als u haakt. En u haakt wel altijd eerst 2 l elke toer, deze informatie staat boven zoals genoemd in het patroon onder: "Lees HAAK HEEN EN WEER boven." gr. Angelique

12.03.2012 - 11:51

country flag Tarja wrote:

Hyvä virkattu malli

16.06.2011 - 09:20

country flag Marja wrote:

Mieleinen malli!

11.06.2011 - 00:25

country flag Agnes wrote:

Mycket snyggt set!

09.06.2011 - 17:42

country flag Ina wrote:

Herrlich frech!

31.05.2011 - 17:20

country flag Pia wrote:

Wow, äntligen virkad mössa!

28.05.2011 - 16:17