DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 133-4
DROPS design: Pattern no AB-007
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M - M/L - XL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
300-300-350 g colour no 2020, light beige
And use:
DROPS PUDDEL from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm (40 cm and 80 cm) - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm - for crochet border.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = 2 rounds * 1st round: K all sts. 2nd round: P all sts *. Repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st as follows: Before marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. After marker: K 2 tog.

MEASURING TIP:
Place piece flat when measuring.
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PONCHO:
Work front and back piece separately back and forth on circular needle until after splits in the sides.

FRONT PIECE: Cast on 136-144-153 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca Bouclé. Switch to 1 thread and work 2 rows in GARTER ST back and forth on circular needle - see explanation above. Continue in stocking st back and forth - but work 1 st in each side in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 15 cm, put piece aside.

BACK PIECE: Cast on and work as front piece.

BODY: Slip front and back piece on to same circular needle = 272-288-306 sts. Insert a marker in each side in the transitions between back piece and front piece and in the middle on back piece and front piece (= 4 markers). Continue in stocking st over all sts while at the same time dec 1 st on each side of markers in each side and mid front and mid back (i.e. 8 sts dec per round with dec) - see DECREASE TIP: dec on every 2 cm 14-15-16 times, then on every 1 cm 6-7-8 times = 112-112-114 sts.
Switch to a shorter circular needle when no of sts are too few to go around the long circular needle. Continue in stocking st and work until piece measures 90-93-96 cm - see MEASURING TIP above. Cast off.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border on hook size 6 mm with Puddel around the neck edge and at bottom edge of the poncho. Work, * 1 dc, 1 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, vous donner la mesure total pour la hauteur, mais j’aimerais savoir quel est la mesure en partant du bas jusqu’au 45-50-55, qui est le dessus des épaules, il sera facile ensuite de savoir quel est la hauteur du col.\r\nMerci beaucoup

27.04.2021 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, nous n'avons pas d'autres mesures et n'avons plus ce modèle; toutefois, seule la hauteur totale est importante ici, car en fonction de la carrure de chacune, la hauteur épaules/col tombera différemment; le col - large, comme on le voit sur la photo - correspond à la partie "droite", autrement dit, quand toutes les augmentations sont terminées et jusqu'à la fin. Bon tricot!

27.04.2021 - 13:18

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais savoir la mesure 45-50-55cm arrive à quel hauteur du corps, est-ce que c’est la mesure de la largeur des épaules, ça va m’aider pour décider de la grandeur que je vais faire Merci beaucoup

27.04.2021 - 00:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, cette mesure correspond à celles qui tombe sur les épaules (un peu avant la fin des 14-15-16 diminutions d'1 m x 8 tous les 2 cm). Bon tricot!

27.04.2021 - 07:38

country flag Beisser Françoise wrote:

Bonjour. A la fin de toutes les diminutions, j'obtiens bien une largeur de 45cm comme sur le patron. Comment faire pour obtenir une largeur de 33cm à 90cm de hauteur? Merci pour votre réponse

07.11.2020 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Beisser, quand toutes les diminutions sont faites, il vous reste 112 mailles, et, si votre échantillon est juste, vous devez avoir vos 33 cm de large (posé à plat). Bon tricot!

09.11.2020 - 10:15

country flag Kate wrote:

When I have put the front and the back onto the circular needle, I have balls of wool attached to each piece. Which one do I knit with and what do I do with the one I don't knit with?

22.09.2020 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, cut the yarn at the end of beg of front piece, then continue with the yarn worked for back piece. Happy knitting!

22.09.2020 - 11:46

country flag Marguerite Champagne wrote:

Bonjour, petite confusion...après avoir placé les marqueurs, si je diminue 8 mailles de chaque côté des marqueurs par tour ça fait 32 mailles de moins par tour et la suite me mêle: diminuer 14-15-16 fois 1 maille tous les 2 cm, Et puis 6-7-8 fois q m tous les 1cm jusqu’ à dans mon cas 112 m..... aidez-moi svp

11.02.2019 - 16:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Champagne, vous avez 4 marqueurs et diminuez 1 m de chaque côté de chaque marqueur = vous diminuez ainsi 8 mailles par tour de diminutions, soit 14-15 x 8 + 6-7 x8 = 112-120 + 48-56 = 160-176 diminutions. Vous aviez 272-288 m - 160-176= 112-112 m. Bon tricot!

12.02.2019 - 08:26

country flag Eveline wrote:

Staan bij de tekening de centimeters?

12.08.2018 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Eveline, Klopt, dit zijn centimeters!

14.08.2018 - 10:22

country flag Helena Kampinga wrote:

Kan deze leuke poncho ook gebreid worden met Drops Brushed Apaca Silk? Die heeft zulke mooie kleuren. Je moet wat meer naalden breien, omdat de stekenverhouding 17x24 is. Graag hoor ik van u. Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord.

05.03.2018 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Helena, Ja hoor, dat kan wel. Het effect zal een beetje anders zijn, omdat het geen bouclegaren is, maar Brushed Alpaca Silk past prima bij dit project. Beide garens vallen in dezelfde garengroep, maar maak wel voor de zekerheid even een proeflapje.

05.03.2018 - 19:23

country flag Boutin wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les premières instructions du modèle qui indique de tricoter le devant et le dos séparément, en allers et retours sur l'aiguille circulaire jusqu'aux fentes.... Si le devant et le dos sont tricotés séparément sur 15 cm ils sont exécutés avec des aiguilles droites, n'est ce pas ? Ensuite effectivement le tout est repris sur une aiguille circulaire. Merci de me dire ce que je n'ai peut être pas compris. Salutations

01.03.2018 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boutin, le devant et le dos se tricotent effectivement d'abord séparément puis en rond ensemble. Vous pouvez tricoter chaque partie d'abord en allers et retours sur aiguilles droites ou sur aiguille circulaire, au choix. Bon tricot!

01.03.2018 - 17:02

country flag Béatrice DF wrote:

Un grand merci pour votre réponse rapide et... meilleurs vœux pour la nouvelle année.

03.01.2018 - 06:35

country flag Béatrice DF wrote:

Pour la plus petite taille il y a 136 mailles pour le dos ainsi que pour le devant. Dans ce cas il n'y a pas de maille centrale du devant et du dos, or on doit diminuer de part et d'autre de cette maille centrale qui n'existe pas... Ai-je mal compris quelque chose? A l'avance merci pour votre aide.

31.12.2017 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Béatrice, on va effectivement placer les marqueurs entre 2 mailles et diminuer avant ou après ces marqueurs comme indiqué sous DIMINUTIONS (+ les diminutions de chaque côté des marqueurs des côtés). Bon tricot!

02.01.2018 - 11:17