DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Lizzie Jay

Knitted DROPS circular jacket in ”Alpaca” and ”Vivaldi”. Size: S to XXXL.

DROPS 129-38
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-559
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M/L - XL/XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 8105, light ice blue: 350-350-400-450 g
And use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
Color no 09, light gray blue: 200-200-250-250 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 (80 cm / 32'' - use 2) – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Vivaldi = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
22 sts in ENGLISH RIB = approx. 14 cm / 5½''.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SHORT ROWS:
Work short rows to get a circular shape - tighten the yarn a little after every turn to make the holes less visible.
Work short rows as follows:
ROW 1-2: Work 22 sts in ENGLISH RIB, 61-74-82-98 sts in GARTER ST, turn and work back.
Repeat row 1-2 but reduce no of sts worked in GARTER ST (61-74-82-98) with 3 on every repetition before turning the piece. Repeat a total of 19-24-26-32 times - read NOTE below.
Then start from row 1 over all sts again but read PATTERN EFFECT below -

NOTE: AT THE SAME TIME when working short rows, after every 6th row work 2 additional short rows back and forth only over the 22 sts in ENGLISH RIB .

PATTERN EFFECT:
On the K row where all sts are worked - P the innermost 61-74-82-98 sts in the circle. Then continue as before.

MEASURING TIP:
All measurements should be done when piece is flat. Do not measure across - but follow the curve along the 39th-43rd-51st-59th st from middle.

ENGLISH RIB:
ROW 1 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1.
ROW 2 (= WS): Slip 1 st as if to P, * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* .
ROW 3 (= RS): * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row upwards.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
--------------------------------------------------------

CIRCLE:
Start at the tip at the bottom towards mid back. Work back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 3-3-3-3 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Vivaldi. Work ENGLISH RIB while at the same time casting on 1 st at the end of every row from RS a total of 19 times - work the inc sts in ENGLISH RIB. Then on next row from RS, at the end cast on 61-74-82-98 sts 1 time = 83-96-104-120 sts (the first 3 sts are the outermost sts in the side of piece) – work back.
Work 1st row from RS (work towards the center of the circle) as follows:
22 sts in ENGLISH RIB (see explanation above), work the remaining 61-74-82-98 sts in GARTER ST (see explanation above) - at the same time work SHORT ROWS (see explanation above) and insert a marker after 39-43-51-59 sts from the middle, all measurements are done along this marker - read MEASURING TIP.
When piece measures 37-40-49-57 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-19 1/4"-22½" along the marker, make an armhole.
ARMHOLE:
Slip the innermost 39-43-51-59 sts on to a circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Keep the remaining sts on the needle. Now work the 2 parts separately but at the same time on separate needles with separate balls - this is done so that the short rows are correct on both sides of the armhole - continue with English rib/Garter st and Short rows as before.
When armhole measures 18-21-23-25 cm / 7"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4", slip all sts back on the same needle = 83-96-104-120 sts. Now measure the piece from here. Continue until piece measures approx. 15-17-19-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4", there should now be approx. half a circle (adjust after one whole repetition or half a repetition of short rows).
Now work the other half of the circle the same way but with reversed measures.
When the circle is done, from WS bind off all the sts in garter st and loosely bind off the sts in ENGLISH RIB for tip by casting/binding off 1 st in beg of every WS row a total of 19 times – bind off the 3 remaining sts.

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 47-49-51-51 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Vivaldi. Work ENGLISH RIB - see explanation above. When piece measures 13 cm / 5'', work 1 row in stockinette st while at the same time adjusting the no of sts to 46-48-50-56 (work YOs tog with the sts). Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. When piece measures 22-20-19-19 cm / 8 3/4"-8"-7½"-7½", inc 1 st in each side every 7-4-3-3 cm / 2 3/4"-1½"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" a total of 5-9-12-12 times = 56-66-74-80 sts.
When piece measures 56-57-57-58 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-22 3/4", bind off for sleeve cap 4 sts in beg of next 2 rows.
Then bind off 2 sts in beg of each row until piece measures approx. 61-62-62-63 cm / 24"-24 3/8"-24 3/8"-24 3/4". Then bind off 4 sts 1 time in each side. Piece measures approx. 62-63-63-64 cm / 24 3/8"-24 3/4"-24 3/4"-25 1/4". Bind off the remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew circle tog in cast on and bind off edge with neat stitches. Sew underarm seams. Sew in sleeves so that underarm seam is in the middle of where piece was divided and so that sleeve cap is in the middle where piece was divided at the top of armhole.




This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.03.2011
Now work the other half of the circle the same way but reversed.
When the circle is done, cast off all the sts in garter st and loosely bind off the sts in ENGLISH RIB for tip by binding off 1 st a total of 19 times on every other row – bind off the 3 remaining sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 129-38

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Anies wrote:

Witam. Czy jest szansa że "przepis" na Lizzie Jay zostanie w tym roku przetłumaczony na język polski ?

26.02.2020 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Witamy! Będzie gotowy już w tym tygodniu :) Dziękujemy za zainteresowanie naszą stroną i pozdrawiamy!

26.02.2020 - 12:27

country flag Elly Henriksen wrote:

Vi er endt op med er hul i midten skal det bare syes sammen eller skal der strikkes en lille cirkel og syes i? Vi kan ikke finde det i opskriften..

06.08.2016 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elly. Hvis I synes hullet er for stort, saa kan du sy det lidt sammen.

26.08.2016 - 14:25

Donna wrote:

The pattern sizes of Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large etc are very subjective and often misleading. Could you please tell me the bust measurement for the XXXL pattern. Thank you for your help.

03.04.2016 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size - read more here. Happy knitting!

04.04.2016 - 09:18

country flag Anne wrote:

Vielen Dank! In der Anleitung fehlt für Reihe 2 des Patentmusters irritierenderweise 1 Umschlag vor dem links abheben. Deshalb ging es nie auf.

16.01.2012 - 13:39

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Nach dem Abrehen müssen Sie herausfinden ob mit einer "1 Umschlag, 1 M. li. abheben" oder mit "den Umschlag und die abgehobenen M. zusammenstricken" angefangen wird mit das Muster aufgeht.

16.01.2012 - 09:14

country flag Anne wrote:

Ich würde gerne die Frage wiederholen, wie man die jeweils neu aufgenommene Masche am ende der Vorderseiten ins Patentmuster integrieren soll.

15.01.2012 - 14:33

country flag Claudia wrote:

Decreasing?

19.07.2011 - 13:13

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

In the short rows you work 3 sts less for each time you turn.

19.07.2011 - 01:32

Claudia wrote:

In short rows when I have to reduce the number of stitches in garter stitch, Do I have to decrease or what do I do with those 3 stitches?

17.07.2011 - 23:31

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Unfortunately we are not able to answer all individual questions, so if you need help with this pattern please contact the shop that sold you your yarn, or look for help in one the forums.

15.07.2011 - 18:29