DROPS Lin
DROPS Lin
100% Linen
Discontinued
find alternatives
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Knitted DROPS asymmetric vest, worked top down in ”Lin” or ”Muskat”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 129-15
DROPS design: Pattern no LN-010
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 70-78-84-96-108-120 cm /
27½"-30 3/4"-33"-37 3/4"-42½"-47 1/4"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm /
20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''

Materials: DROPS LIN from Garnstudio
Color no 103, linen: 150-150-150-200-200-200 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 (60 cm / 24'') - or size needed to get 17 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Alternative materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
The whole vest can be knitted in Muskat instead of Lin if desired. Replace in that case Lin with Muskat color no 61, light beige: 200-200-200-250-250-250 g
And use CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 6 mm / US 10 (60 cm / 24'') - or size needed to get 17 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lin
DROPS Lin
100% Linen
Discontinued
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc by making 1 YO on each side of st with marker in each side as follows: Work in stockinette st until marker, 1 YO, work st with marker in stockinette st, 1 YO. P YOs on next row to make holes.
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The piece is worked top down. Front and back piece are worked back and forth separately down to and with armhole. Then all sts are slipped on the same circular needle. Then the piece is worked back and forth from mid front.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 17-17-18-18-21-21 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Lin. Work in stockinette st. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', inc 1 st towards armhole side by working 2 sts in the last st (seen from RS). Repeat inc in outermost st towards the side on every 9th-7th-6th-4th-4th-3rd row (i.e. in last st from RS or in first st from WS) a total of 6-8-10-14-15-20 times = 23-25-28-32-36-41 sts. REMEMBER THE TENSION/GAUGE! When all inc towards the side are done, the piece measures approx. 22-23-25-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8". Slip the sts on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as on left front piece but with inc in the opposite side.

BACK PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Cast on 17-17-18-18-21-21 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Lin. Work 5 rows in stockinette st with start from RS. Cut the thread and put piece aside.
Right shoulder:
Cast on 17-17-18-18-21-21 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Lin. Work 5 rows in stockinette st with start from RS, then cast on 16-18-18-20-22-22 sts at the end of next row from WS = 33-35-36-38-43-43 sts. Work sts from left shoulder on to same needle = 50-52-54-56-64-64 sts. Continue in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from shoulder, inc 1 st in first and last st on needle. Repeat inc in each side on every 9th-7th-6th-4th-4th-3rd row a total of 6-8-10-14-15-20 times = 62-68-74-84-94-104 sts. When all inc are done, the piece measures approx. 22-23-25-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8". Cut the thread.

BODY:
Slip sts from right and left front piece on to same circular needle as back piece. Now work piece back and forth with start from mid front = 108-118-130-148-166-186 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece; in 24th-26th-29th-33rd-37th-42nd st in from each side (back piece = 60-66-72-82-92-102 sts). Continue in stockinette st for 2 cm / 3/4'', piece now measures approx. 24-25-27-27-28-29 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8". On next row from RS, inc 1 st on each side of st with marker in each side - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc on every row from RS until finished measurements = approx. 32-33-33-36-37-38 rows with inc (approx. 28-29-29-31-32-33 cm / 11"-11 3/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-12½"-13"). After all inc there are approx. 236-250-262-292-314-338 sts on needle. LOOSELY cast/bind off. Now piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' measured straight down from shoulder (the sides are longer because of inc to give extra width and length).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Allinson Sherratt wrote:

Further to your answer to my earlier question, I would confirm I did do a tension square & it was fine. I'm mainly concerned that I'm interpreting the pattern correctly IE am I correct to increase the yo marker increases on the right side only - for the largest side this would equate to 76 rows. Thanks

06.08.2021 - 14:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Allinson, you are right, you only increase on the right side. About the amount of rows to work, you need to check the measurements for your sizes with the ones in the diagram below the pattern; but there should be 76 rows, yes. The texture of the work should be loose and light.

07.08.2021 - 11:13

country flag Allinson Sherratt wrote:

If you only increase around the markers on every right sided row, you knit 38 X 2(for the largest size), 76 rows in total. I have used 6 balls of Muskat so far & need to knit 30 more rows. Can you please confirm the quantity of yarn required ?

06.08.2021 - 12:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Allison, the amount of yarn we use dto knit the modell is stated in the pattern. However the amount of yarn a knitter catually uses depends on many factors, mostly on the gauge she is knitting with. If you knit with gauge given, the amount of yarn should be enough. Happy stitching!

06.08.2021 - 13:15

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Buongiorno, non ho capito il passaggio del retro dx e sx . Si ripete spalla destra, immagino ci sia un errore e volevo capire se tutte e due le spalle e’ corretto lavorarle in modo diverso Io per le due parti davanti ho lavorato i due pezzi insieme sullo stesso ferro Posso farlo anche per il dietro? Grazie mille ♥️

06.05.2020 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Nathalie, abbiamo corretto il testo. Deve lavorare prima la spalla sinistra e poi la destra, e quando le viene chiesto unirà le maglie della spalla sinistra. Buon lavoro!

06.05.2020 - 12:40

country flag Laura Crockarell wrote:

When doing the increases for the arm hole from the WS, should i still do a Knit front and back or another type increase stitch?

24.03.2019 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Crockarell, when increasing from the WS you can purl front and back to keep the same kind of increase -seen from RS all the way. Happy knitting!

25.03.2019 - 12:12

country flag Debbie Owen wrote:

When doing the YO, do we need to move the marker? I am not but do have the correct increases each time. Marker started at 37 and after 2 rows of increases it is now in 39. Is that correct.

25.04.2018 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Owen, marker should stay in the same st all the way (just move it upwards when working), ie after 2 rows increase you have increased 2 sts and there are now 38 sts before marker (= marker is in the 39th st) in 5th size. Happy knitting!

25.04.2018 - 16:39

country flag Connie Ruebling wrote:

While making this vest I have noticed by looking at the finished projects, there are two different ways people are knitting the yarn over increases. The pattern says in the body to increase in the 24-42nd stitch depending on your size in from each side. As you continue, that number does not stay the same. The next knit row after you have purled back, the increase will be in the 25-43rd stitch, then the 26-44th stitch and so on. Not the 24-42nd stitch throughout.

17.06.2015 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Ruebling, the marker on body has to be inserted in the 24th st in each side, and inc are done each side of the marker, so that you will have 23 sts for front piece before 1st inc, 24 sts after 1st inc and so on. Let marker follow this st and inc each side of this st will make the front pieces inc with 1 st and back piece with 2 sts on each inc row. Happy knitting!

18.06.2015 - 09:08

country flag Cindy wrote:

I am trying to decide which size to make. My actual bust is 35 1/2 inches. I usually make a small or medium. According to the pattern, I should probably make at least the large. How much gap should this vest have in the front? Does this pattern run small?

02.06.2015 - 03:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cindy, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm taken flat from side to side - compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size - convert into inch here. Happy knitting!

02.06.2015 - 08:36

country flag Tamila wrote:

I have made it, and mine curls so much being stockinette stitch. The picture with the model doesn't seem to curl so much. Is that because of blocking? Or is there something I can do to keep it from curling. I tried doing a rib edge, but didn't like it, and it still curled some.

05.05.2015 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tamila, blocking will prevent curling, you can also add a crocheted edge.

06.05.2015 - 09:17

country flag Neuling wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team! Sie schreiben in der Anleitung "...glatt stricken...". Meinen Sie damit glatt rechts, also Vorderseite rechte Maschen, Rückseite linke Maschen. Oder meinen Sie damit wirklich Vorder- und Rückseite rechte Maschen? Jetzt schon vielen lieben Dank für Ihre Antwort.

23.09.2014 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

"glatt" bedeutet bei uns immer glatt rechts. Gutes Gelingen!

23.09.2014 - 22:16

country flag Cherry wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team! Ich habe gerade das linke Vorderteil gestrickt und es rollt sich an den Seiten sehr ein. Ist das so gewollt (auf dem Bild ist das für mich nicht ersichtlich!)oder sollte ich einfach ein/zwei Maschen am Rand als kraus rechts dazustricken (oder einfach von den anfänglichen 17 Maschen vier als Randmaschen (kraus rechts) einplanen - also auf jeder Seite 2?)???? Für eine Antwort wäre ich sehr dankbar.

02.08.2014 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Sie können die Weste nach dem Stricken anfeuchten und spannen oder unter feuchten Tüchern trocknen lassen, dann rollen sich die Ränder weniger stark. Sie können ein Probestück stricken und ausprobieren, wie stark es sich nach solch einer Behandlung noch einrollt. Falls das nicht reicht, können Sie wie von Ihnen vorgeschlagen ein paar Maschen am Rand kraus rechts stricken statt glatt rechts (nicht zusätzlich), ich würde 3-4 M kraus re pro Seite stricken.

04.08.2014 - 13:48