DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 128-14
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-139
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 604pl, ocean view:
500-550-600-650-700-750 g

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm (80 cm) - for front band.
DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS NO 534: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
BACK PIECE:
The whole piece is worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows.
Cast on 103-113-121-135-151-165 sts on pointed needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Insert a marker in the middle st. Then work a "square" as follows:
Row 1 (= WS): Knit all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): Knit all sts.
Row 3: Knit all sts.
Row 4: K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso and K the rest of row.
Repeat row 1-4, i.e. dec 2 sts every 4 rows. Continue like this until 1 st remains on the needle. Cut the thread and pull it through the last st = 1st square.
Knit up 51-56-60-67-75-82 sts in the cast on edge on one side of the first "square" (start from the edge and continue towards the middle to and with st with marker from 1st square - see chart for knitting direction). Then cast on 52-57-61-68-76-83 new sts = 103-113-121-135-151-165 sts on needle. Insert a marker in the middle st and work 2nd square as 1st square.

UPPER PIECE:
Knit up 102-112-120-134-150-164 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on pointed needle size 3 mm with Fabel in cast on edge on the 2 squares (if it is necessary to knit up 1 st between the "squares" to avoid holes, dec this st on next row). Insert a marker, measure the piece from here. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm from marker, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm a total of 3-3-3-2-2-2 times = 108-118-126-138-154-168 sts. When piece measures 12 cm from marker, cast off 3-3-3-4-5-6 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows for armholes = 102-112-120-130-144-156 sts. Continue to work back and forth.
SIZE S + M + L + XL: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13 cm, inc 1 st in each side for shoulder, repeat inc every 2-3-3-8 cm a total of 9-6-6-3 times = 120-124-132-136 sts.
SIZE XXL: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14 cm, inc 1 st in each side for shoulder = 146 sts.
SIZE XXXL: No inc.
ALL SIZES: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm from marker, cast off the middle 22-24-24-26-26-28 sts for neck (= 49-50-54-55-60-64 sts remain on each shoulder) and finish each shoulder separately. Continue back and forth until piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35-36 cm from marker. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 103-113-121-135-151-165 sts on pointed needle size 3 mm with Fabel and work a "square" as explained on back piece.
Then knit up 52-57-61-68-76-83 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) along one side in the cast on edge on the square (see chart for knitting direction). Insert a marker, measure piece from here. Then work in garter st back and forth. When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm from marker, inc in the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-10-10-9-9 cm from marker, beg to dec for neck. Dec 1 st at beg of next row from WS, repeat dec every 6-6-6-6-8-8 rows a total of 12-13-13-14-14-15 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm from marker, cast off for armhole as on back piece. Then inc for shoulder in the side as on back piece.
When all cast offs, dec and inc are done, 49-50-54-55-60-64 sts remain on needle for shoulder. Continue back and forth until piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35-36 cm from marker. Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

FRONT BAND:
Knit up 74-80-84-92-96-104 sts along front edge on right front piece up to where dec for neck starts (insert a marker), then knit up 126-134-140-146-156-164 sts around the neck and 74-80-84-92-96-104 sts down along the edge on left front piece (adjust no of sts on 1st row if necessary). K back and forth on needle for approx. 1 cm. Now cast off for 5-5-5-6-6-6 button holes on right front band by working next row from RS as follows:
Work 15-17-17-19-18-16 sts, * cast off 1 st, work 13-14-15-13-14-16 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 times, cast off 1 st, work 2 sts (marker is here), then K the rest of the row. On next row cast on 1 new st over the cast off sts. Continue back and forth until front band measures approx. 2½ cm. Loosely cast off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle in garter st, i.e. K all rows. Worked top down, this is done to make it easier to adjust to desired length (NOTE! the sleeve might be somewhat longer when worn).
Cast on 89-93-99-103-107-113 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on pointed needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work back and forth until piece measures approx. 4 cm. Now start to dec 1 st in each side, repeat dec every 2½-2½-2-2-2-1½ cm a total of 16-17-19-20-21-23 times = 57-59-61-63-65-67 sts on needle. Continue until piece measures approx. 49-49-48-48-47-46 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width) or until desired measurements. Loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Mallet wrote:

Bonjour j'ai fait le premier carré pour le dos. Il est ensuite expliqué de monter des mailles sur le rg de base pour faire le deuxième.. or Celui ci va se trouver en tête bêche avec le premier carré. Ce qui n'a rien à voir avec le schéma... De plus les explications du bas du dos sont similaires à celles du ne Demi devant.. donc les mêmes mensurations.. bref je ne comprends rien aux explications... Merci de m'éclairer...

24.11.2022 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mallet, vous tricotez d'abord le 1er domino du dos (ce sera le n°1 sur le schéma (on tricote les dominos du bas de la veste de haut en bas), quand ce domino est terminé, vous relevez les mailles le long du côté gauche du domino, vu sur l'endroit (2ème moitié du montage du 1er domino) et montez les mailles restantes du 2ème domino. Pour les devants, vous tricoterez un domino pour chacun des devants. Vous tricotez ensuite la partie du haut du gilet en relevant les mailles en haut des dominos (mailles du montage - cf sens de la flèche). En espérant avoir pu vous aider. Bon tricot!

24.11.2022 - 15:32

country flag Daniela Nerstheimer wrote:

Guten Morgen. Die Angaben auf dem Schnittmuster - sind cm oder Maschen? Danke in voraus.

11.11.2020 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nerstheimer, alle Angaben auf dem Schnittmuster sind in cm - hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.11.2020 - 14:11

country flag Annett Larsen wrote:

Jeg er ved at give op allerede fra start. Er det en fejl? Skulle der have stået 2 masker tilbage før mærket? Skal først stykke (ryg) komme til at ligne en rombe?

21.01.2018 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Nej der skal ikke være fejl i opskriften. Du ser på måleskitsen nederst i opskriften hvordan formen skal se ud. Husk at du skal have strikkefastheden til at stemme for at få den rigtige form. God fornøjelse!

30.01.2018 - 11:25

country flag Annett Larsen wrote:

Kan man strikke trøjen på pind 3½ efter maskeantallet for en størrelse mindre?

16.01.2018 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annett, nej det bliver nok svært på grund af de forskellige vinkler... men du er naturligvis velkommen til at prøve. Held og lykke!

22.01.2018 - 16:55

country flag Mette Fjordbach wrote:

Hejsa. Virkelig pæn trøje. Jeg kan se der er mange kommentarer og nogen der ikke forstår opskriften. Er der fejl og er de evt rettet i opskriften nu? Vil gerne strikke denne lækre model 😊 Vh Mette

12.01.2017 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mette. Om der var fejl i opskriften, saa burde det vaere rettet til og staa under RETTELSER. God fornöjelse

17.01.2017 - 14:39

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonjour. je suis au tout début du modèle. j'ai tricoté le 1er "carré", j'ai suivi les instructions mais mon carré a plutôt la forme d'une "goutte" d'eau. est-ce que c'est normal? merci pour votre aide. Marion

09.12.2015 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marion, c'est exact, vous avez fait le 1er motif - il doit ressembler aux 1. et 2. du schéma. Bon tricot!

10.12.2015 - 10:05

country flag Tommiesje1 . wrote:

Vraag:bij het maken van een "vierkant"is mij niet iets duidelijk;volgens patroon minder je 2 steken per 4 nld.Maar die minder je alleen VOOR de middensteek,dan wodrt het toch geen vierkant.?Maar trekt naar 1 kant.?!gaarne Uw antwoord..

13.03.2015 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Tommiesje. Als je de beschrijving van nld 4 leest, dan minder je 1 st voor en 1 st na de markeerdraad (= 2 st in totaal) en dus aan beide kanten.

13.03.2015 - 15:32

Gesa wrote:

Hi, the same has happened to me... I have literally spent hours trying to find where to cast on the stitches for the second triangle ,until finally I have decided to knit the second triangle separately and to attach it later.

14.02.2014 - 16:12

country flag Donna Nickerson wrote:

I am on the back piece & working on the second square I am not understanding how to pick up and knit do you have a chart for the backside?

03.02.2014 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nickerson, squares for back piece are numbered on the measurement chart, place your first square as in the chart (arrow shows knitting direction) and pick up sts along right side of the 1st square, along cast on edge starting from the bottom to the mid st (the one with marker in 1st square). Happy knitting!

04.02.2014 - 09:54

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Nuestra traductora está trabajando en la traducción de más patrones a español

13.04.2011 - 10:22