DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Pretty Me

Knitted DROPS jacket with rounded yoke with lace pattern in "Muskat". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 127-41
DROPS design: Pattern no R-586
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
Colour no 05, light purple:
500-550-650-700-750-850 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON LIGHT NO 503: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 (= 13 sts). The diagram shows the pattern from RS.
DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to waist front and back):
Dec as follows before 1st and 3rd marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 2nd and 4th marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to yoke):
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog alternately in the right and left side of all K sections.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = cast off 4th st from mid front. On next row cast on 1 new st over the cast off st.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 cm
SIZE M: 17, 25, 33, 41, 49 and 57 cm.
SIZE L: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 59 cm.
SIZE XL: 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 and 61 cm.
SIZE XXL: 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 63 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 241-259-280-301-331-367 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Work 1st row (= from RS) as follows: 6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, rib K 1/P 2 until 7 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 6 sts in garter st (the 6 sts in garter st each side = bands). Work bands in garter st until finished measurements. Continue with rib until piece measures 4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. K next row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-51-56-61-67-75 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 192-208-224-240-264-292 sts. Continue in stocking st vertically. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm, insert 4 markers in piece as follows (= for waist front and back): Work 28-28-30-30-32-33 sts, insert 1st marker before next st, work 47-54-59-66-74-86 sts, insert 2nd marker before next st, work 42-44-46-48-52-54 sts, insert 3rd marker before next st, work 47-54-59-66-74-86 sts, insert 4th marker before next st and work the remaining 28-28-30-30-32-33 sts on needle. On next row from RS dec as follows: 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker -READ DECREASE TIP 1!
Repeat dec every 6th-6th-6th-6th-6th-8th row a total of 7-7-7-6-6-5 times = 164-180-196-216-240-272 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-17-11-13-15-17 cm, cast off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above - on right front band.
When piece measures 23 cm, inc on next row from RS as follows: 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker - inc 1 st by picking up st from previous row and work this in stocking st. Repeat inc every 8th-8th-8th-8th-8th-10th row a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 times = 180-196-212-236-260-292 sts. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, work next row from RS as follows: K 42-46-50-56-62-70 sts, cast off 12 sts (= armhole), work 72-80-88-100-112-128 sts (= back piece), cast off 12 sts (= armhole) and work the remaining 42-46-50-56-62-70 sts = 156-172-188-212-236-268 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 60-63-63-66-69-72 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib K1/P2 over all sts. When rib measures 3 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Continue to K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-13-11-12-13-14 sts evenly = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6-6-6-6-7-7 cm, inc 1 st each side of marker. Repeat inc every 3-2½-2½-2½-2-2 cm a total of 13-14-15-15-16-17 times = 74-78-82-84-88-92 sts. When piece measures 45-45-44-44-43-43 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width)
cast off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. cast off 6 sts each side of marker) = 62-66-70-72-76-80 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 280-304-328-356-388-428 sts. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 21-19-17-19-25-39 sts evenly (dec 1 st by P 2 sts tog, do not dec over band sts) = 259-285-311-337-363-389 sts. On next row from RS continue as follows: 6 sts in garter st, * M.1 - see explanation above, K 13 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times, finish with M.1 and 6 sts in garter st. Continue with the pattern vertically. When piece measures 2 cm from beg of pattern, on next row from RS dec 1 st in every K section - READ DECREASE TIP 2! Repeat dec from RS on every 8th row a total of 4-4-5-5-5-6 times, then on every 4th row a total of 5-5-4-5-5-4 times = 178-195-212-217-233-249 sts. When pattern measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm - finish after 1 repetition vertically - K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 39-47-55-54-64-74 sts evenly = 139-148-157-163-169-175 sts. Work next row from RS as follows: 6 sts in garter st, * rib P 1, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, finish with P 1 and 6 sts in garter st. Continue working an elevation in the neck with short rows with K over K and P over P as follows (1st row = from RS): Work until 33-34-36-38-39-40 sts remain on needle, turn piece, work back until 33-34-36-38-39-40 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work until 41-42-46-48-50-51 sts remain, turn piece and work back until 41-42-46-48-50-51 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work until 49-51-56-58-61-63 sts remain, turn piece and work back until 49-51-56-58-61-63 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work until 57-60-66-69-72-75 sts remain, turn piece and work back until 57-60-66-69-72-75 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work the rest of the row. Turn piece. Work 5 rows with K over K and P over P over all sts (work bands as before), then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.04.2011
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-17-11-13-15-17 cm cast off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above - on right front band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 4 tog
symbols = K 4 twisted tog, i.e. knit in
the back loop of all sts
symbols = YO between 2 sts
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Eunice wrote:

Help I am doing XL: Prob here:- when piece measures -7- cm, insert 4 markers in piece as follows (= for waist front and back): Work 30- sts, insert 1st marker before next st, work 66-sts, insert 2nd marker before next st, work 48 sts, insert 3rd marker before next st, work 66sts, insert 4th marker before next st and work the remaining 30 sts on needle. When I follow this I have 48sts left over, should there be another marker between the 3rd and 4th marker for these 48st ???

08.03.2021 - 23:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eunice, you should insert the markers like this: 30 sts, marker-1, 66 sts, marker-2, 48 sts, marker-3, 66 sts, marker-4, 30 sts = 30+66+48+66+30=240 sts - and the 4 markers are placed nicely to work the darts. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

09.03.2021 - 07:43

country flag Mira Ekstrand wrote:

Hej En jättesöt kofta men jag vill sticka utan hålmönster, kan jag sticka vanliga maskor i stället för mönster M1? och följa minskningarna enligt mönstret i övrigt?

12.07.2017 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mira, ja det bör gå bra om du har samma stickfasthet. Sticka ett litet prov med M.1 och se om det blir samma som det slätstickade. Lycka till!

12.07.2017 - 14:20

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team! Wollte lieber mal vorm Losstricken meine Frage loswerden: Es steht beschrieben, man soll die Ärmel rund stricken. Wie bekomme ich die Ärmel und das Jackenstück dann auf eine Rundstricknadel? Vlt löst sich das Problem, wenn ich es gestrickt habe und es auffädeln will, momentan kann ich es mir aber noch nicht vorstellen (vermutlich grad 'nen Knoten im Kopf). Über eine Antwort würde mich sehr freuen (:

21.08.2015 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Für die Armausschnitte werden am Rumpfteil Maschen abgekettet, an den Ärmeln ebenso. Die übrigen Ärmelmaschen werden dann jeweils an der Stelle eingefügt, an der die M für die Armausschnitte abgekettet wurden. Hoffentlich hat sich Ihr Knoten nun gelöst. ;-)

21.08.2015 - 20:30

Veronica wrote:

¿ A que se refieren cuando dicen resortes?

20.04.2015 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Veronica. Resorte = punto elástico. Tienes el apartado "Glosario" en los "Tips y Ayuda" para futuras consultas.

26.04.2015 - 23:06

Marina wrote:

Hello, everyone! Could you help me with this model if you've knited it? What do they mean "K section"? And how many rows in the M1? two or four? When I knit four rows, pattern obtained is not the same as in the picture...

18.09.2014 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marina, for yoke you work M1 and start with K13, you will dec K1 in each of these K13 sections (so that you will then get K12, then K11 etc...). M.1 is a 4 rows repeat, after the 4 rows in diagram, repeat from 1st row until pattern measures 20-25 cm (see written and size). Happy knitting!

18.09.2014 - 13:28

country flag Anne Dewandre wrote:

Veste terminée. Merci pour ce splendide modèle au tombé parfait. J'ai remplacé les jours de l'empiècement par un autre point ajouré, ce qui est simple grâce à la structure de l'empiècement, les diminutions se faisant sur les sections jersey. Je compte le refaire en variant les matières et le motif de l'empiècement. Seul petit problème :au niveau de la rehausse du dos, les rangs raccourcis créent des trous qui ne disparaissent pas au blocage.

14.05.2014 - 01:52

country flag Anna wrote:

Ok, hehe, fout gevonden!!!Gaat goed

02.05.2014 - 13:48

country flag Anna wrote:

Hoi Anne,bedankt voor jouw reactie,ik zie steeds vast met de pas, die eerste 2 cm van het patroon heb ik nu al 3 keer afgehaalt

02.05.2014 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Fijn dat je veel verder kunt, veel breiplezier!

03.05.2014 - 11:20

country flag Anne Dewandre wrote:

Antwoord voor Anna 24/04/2014. Ik ben bezig deze vest te breien. Het patroon is heel duidelijk uitgelegd dus tot nu toe gemakkelijk te volgen, en het resultaat is prachtig. Aan te raden

01.05.2014 - 20:18

country flag Anna wrote:

Heeft iemand deze vest al gebreid? Did somebody knit this cardigan?

24.04.2014 - 10:32