DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 10.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Western Sun

Knitted DROPS tunic, worked top down with extra width in ”Bomull-Lin”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 129-16
DROPS design: Pattern no L-100
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
Colour no 03, beige/linen:
350-400-450-500-550-600 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm (60 cm) - or size needed to get 17 sts x 32 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm (80 cm) - or size needed to get 14 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 10.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the outermost st on needle.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Inc by making 1 YO on each side of st with marker in each side as follows: Work in stocking st until marker, 1 YO, K st with marker, 1 YO. K YOs on next round to make a hole.
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The piece is worked top down. Front and back piece is worked back and forth separately down to body. Then all sts are slipped on the same circular needle. Then work in the round.

FRONT PIECE:
Left Shoulder:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 17-17-17-18-18-18 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Bomull-Lin. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
(SIZE XL-XXXL: Read all of the following section before continuing!)
When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14-15 cm, inc 1 st towards the neck at the end of next row from WS - READ INCREASE TIP 1! Repeat inc towards the neck at the end of every row from WS a total of 3 times.

SIZE S-L:
Then cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row from WS a total of 2 times, finish with K 1 row from RS = 24-24-24 sts. Put piece aside. Piece measures approx. 13-14-15 cm. Cut the thread.

SIZE XL-XXXL:
Read all of the following section before continuing:
Then cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row from WS a total of 2 times, finish with K 1 row from RS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-14-12 cm, inc 1 st at the end of every row from RS towards the armhole - READ INCREASE TIP 1! Repeat inc at the end of every row from RS a total of 9-13-17 times. AT THE SAME TIME when the last sts for neck have been cast on, put piece aside, last row is from RS (inc towards the armhole are not done yet, but continued later). Piece measures approx. 16-17-18 cm. Cut the thread.

ALL SIZES:
Right Shoulder:
Cast on 17-17-17-18-18-18 sts and work in garter st. (SIZE XL-XXXL: Read all of the following section before continuing.)
When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14-15 cm, inc 1 st towards the neck at the end of next row from RS. Repeat inc towards the neck at the end of every row from RS a total of 3 times.

SIZE S-L:
Then cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row from RS a total of 2 times and 12-14-16 sts 1 time (finish with this last inc row from RS) = 36-38-40 sts. Cut the thread. Slip sts from left shoulder on to same needle = 60-62-64 sts. Continue in garter st over all sts, start from WS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-16 cm, inc 1 st at the end of every row in each side - READ INCREASE TIP 1! Repeat inc a total of 1-3-6 times in each side, then cast on 3 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 68-74-82 sts. Continue in garter st. Put piece aside when front piece measures 26-28-30 cm, measured from the shoulder and down (adjust so that next row is from RS).

SIZE XL-XXXL:
Then cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row from RS a total of 2 times and 16-18-20 sts 1 time (finish with this last inc row from RS). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-14-12 cm, start inc in the side towards the armhole as on left shoulder but at the end of every row from WS. AT THE SAME TIME when the last sts for neck have been cast on (finish from RS and cut the thread) slip sts from left shoulder on to same needle. Continue in garter st and inc in each side as before with start from WS. When inc have been done a total of 9-13-17 times in each side, cast on 3 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 90-100-110 sts. Continue in garter st. Put piece aside when front piece measures 32-34-36 cm, measured from shoulder and down (adjust so that next row is from RS).

BACK PIECE (ALL SIZES):

Left Shoulder:
Cast on 17-17-17-18-18-18 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Bomull-Lin. Work in garter st back and forth on needle. When piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st towards the neck at the end of next row from RS = 18-18-18-19-19-19 sts. K 1 row from WS. Cut the thread and put piece aside.

Right Shoulder: Cast on and work as left shoulder. When piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st towards the neck at the end of next row from WS.

Work 1 row from RS. Then cast on 24-26-28-28-30-32 sts for neck at the end of next row from WS = 42-44-46-47-49-51 sts. Cut the thread. Slip sts from left shoulder on to same needle = 60-62-64-66-68-70 sts. Continue in garter st, start from RS. When piece measures 17-17-16-15-14-12 cm, inc 1 st at the end of row in each side. Repeat inc a total of 1-3-6-9-13-17 times in each side, then cast on 3 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 68-74-82-90-100-110 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm.

BODY
Slip sts from front and back piece on to circular needle size 7 mm, now work piece in stocking st in the round on circular needle, start in one side = 136-148-164-180-200-220 sts. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-14-18-20-24-26 sts evenly (dec same no of sts on front and back piece) = 124-134-146-160-176-194 sts. Insert a marker in the 62nd-67th-73rd-80th-88th-97th st and in the last st on the round = 61-66-72-79-87-96 sts between markers. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When 4 cm have been worked in stocking st (piece measures approx. 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm, measured from the shoulder and down) work 1 round while inc 1 st on each side of st with marker in each side – READ INCREASE TIP 2! Continue to work as follows: 2 rounds with inc, 1 round without inc. Continue inc until finished measurements = approx. 45 rounds with inc (approx. 40 cm). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 69-71-73-75-77-79 cm, measured mid front (from shoulder and down), K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round. After all inc are done there are approx. 304-314-326-340-356-374 sts on circular needle. LOOSELY cast off. Piece now measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm mid front (the sides are longer because of the inc that give extra width and length).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams on yoke edge to edge.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (64)

country flag Patricia wrote:

Buenas noches. Cuando tejemos el cuerpo y empezamos con los aumentos antes y después de los marcadores colocados en puntos 62 67, 73, etc, tengo una duda sobre si el punto donde está el marcador se teje o no, ¿Cómo es la secuencia? Ejemplo: punto 61+ punto 62+ punto 63: (Aumento en el p.61+ el p.62 tejido a jersey+ aumento en el p.63) Gracias

02.03.2024 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Patricia, trabajas un aumento antes y después del punto con marcapuntos, esto quiere decir que, por ejemplo, trabajas el punto 61, aumentas con 1 hebra entre el 61 y 62, trabajas el 62, aumentas con 1 hebra entre el 62 y 63, trabajas el punto 63. Lee TIP-2 PARA LOS AUMENTOS para más información.

04.03.2024 - 00:25

country flag Momo wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte dieses Modell stricken und habe jetzt die beiden Maschenproben gemacht. Ungewaschen hat die Krausrippe 17M x 38R und die glattgestrickte 13Mx 19R. Wenn ich jetzt aufgrund der zu vielen R größere Nadeln nehme, würde sich doch auch die M verändern die jetzt stimmt. Und wenn ich die Maschenproben wasche und dann alles stimmt, dann stimmt doch die Anleitung nicht mehr da ich diese mit der ungewaschenen Wolle stricke.

03.12.2021 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Momo, dann am besten eine neue Maschenprobe mit Krausrechts sowie glatt rechts stricken, um die richtige Nadelgröße zu finden. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Maschenprobe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.12.2021 - 13:40

country flag Olga Toaza wrote:

Gracias x los patrones son muy lindos para aserles y nos enseñan muchas cosas

10.06.2021 - 06:44

country flag Olga Toaza wrote:

Gracias x los patrones son muy lindos para aserles y nos enseñan muchas cosas

10.06.2021 - 06:44

country flag Anita wrote:

Thank you for your reply I still need clarification. I started the counting at The middle of the side. The markers still end up in one cluster. How many sts do you have between the markers? And how many times do I need to increase one row? Based on the markers: you have 5-6-7-8-9 sts between the markers and you increasing on both side of them that’s 10 sts increase per row but close to each other. Is this correct?

29.05.2020 - 10:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anita, you should have 124-134-146-160-176-194 sts in total, this means: 1 st with marker (side = beg of round = last st on back piece for example)), 61-66-72-79-87-96 sts (= front piece), 1 st with marker (= other side), 61-66-72-79-87-96 sts (= back piece). Hope this will help :) happy knitting!

29.05.2020 - 11:48

country flag Anita wrote:

I am knitting the body part and trying to understand the increases. I added the markers as noted, but they are on all one side, the pictures shows longer knitting on both sides. If all increases happens on one side it does not make any sense. Where do you count the first marker from? I counted from the first side st. That’s how I ended up with all markers on one side. It would be better note how many markers need on each side...please help.

29.05.2020 - 02:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anita, start to count in the middle of the side and insert the marker in the last st of the round, then add a marker after 61-66-72-79-87-96 sts (= in the 62nd-67th-73rd-80th-88th-97th sts) you should have now 61-66-72-79-87-96 sts between the markers for both front and back piece and 2 sts with 1 marker each. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

29.05.2020 - 08:47

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Hallo Drops Team Die Maschenmarkierer für die Zunahme wenn beide Teile in Runden gestrickt werden .....kommen die auf das Vorderteil oder das Rückenteil?

09.06.2019 - 23:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, die Markierer sind beide auf je eine Seite: Die 62.-67.-73.-80.-88.-97. M. und die letzte M. markieren = 61-66-72-79-87-96 M. zwischen den Markierungen für je das Vorder- und das Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.06.2019 - 11:39

country flag Christine wrote:

Ist der Rock glatt rechts oder links gestrickt? Ich erkenne es leider nicht auf dem Bild!

06.04.2019 - 23:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christine, der Rock wird hier glatt rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.04.2019 - 09:31

country flag Sarah Saggers wrote:

Front left shoulder. End on RS or WS before increase? Is inc then: 1st at the end of every row (or just WS) followed by 2 new ads at end if every row (or just WS). Or are these done at the same time? At the same time: does this mean from the first increase row? What does every row from RS / WS mean? Is only increase at the end of every RS row or the side each individual stitch is worked. I an really struggling with the ambiguity of this pattern.

28.07.2018 - 01:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Saggers, you increase first 1 st for neck at the end of WS a total of 3 times, then cast on 2 sts 2 times at the end of a WS row,after last increase work 1 more row from RS (size S, M, L) and put aside. Happy knitting!

31.07.2018 - 08:49

Yael R Berlinger wrote:

Theres a typo in the gauge for garter stitch. Pattern states gauge as 17 st/32 rows, when actual gauge is 17 st/22 rows, according to the bomull/lin page.

03.04.2016 - 06:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Berlinger, the gauge with 17 sts / 22 rows is when you work in stockinette st, the tension here is in garter st and you should get 17 sts x 32 rows in garter st (= 16 ridges) = 10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

04.04.2016 - 09:39