DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 130-6
DROPS design: Pattern no W-412
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Measurements:
Width: approx. 80 cm
Length: approx. 144 cm

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
600 g colour no 17, off white
400 g colour no 58, powder pink
250 g colour no 26, dark beige
250 g colour no 60, dark old pink
150 g colour no 59, light old pink
100 g colour no 61, light peach

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 1 square to measure approx. 16 x 16 cm. Measure diagonally from corner to corner = approx. 23 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.25£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
For every colour change work last sl st at end of previous round with the new colour. This is done to make the colour changes pretty.

EXPLANATION OF 1 DTR-GROUP:
Work 1 dtr but do not YO and pull through the last time = 2 loops on hook.
Work 1 dtr but do not YO and pull through the last time = 3 loops on hook.
Work 1 dtr but do not YO and pull through the last time = 4 loops on hook, 1 YO, pull thread through all 4 loops on hook.

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Work a total of 45 squares. Read CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

CROCHET SQUARE 1:
Crochet a total of 10 pieces of Crochet square 1.
Crochet 6 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with dark old pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), continue to work 15 tr in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 tr.
ROUND 2: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 16 tr with 1 ch between each. Cut the thread.
ROUND 3: Switch to powder pink. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 2 tr in next ch, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times and finish with 2 tr in last ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 tr. Cut the thread.
ROUND 4: Switch to light old pink. Work 1 ch, 1 dc in same st, * 5 ch, 1 sl st in 5th ch from hook, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 2 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next tr).
ROUND 5: Work sl st until beg of first 5-ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 4 tr + 3 ch + 5 tr in same ch-loop, * 1 dc in 2-ch-loop, 5 tr in 3-ch-loop, 1 dc in 2-ch-loop, 5 tr + 3 ch + 5 tr in 5-ch-loop *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 1 dc in 2-ch-loop, 5 tr in 3-ch-loop, 1 dc in 2-ch-loop and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROUND 6: Switch to off white and beg with 1 sl st in first corner with 3 ch. Work 1 ch (= 1 dc), 3 ch, and 1 dc in same ch-loop, * 5 ch, skip 5 tr, 1 tr in dc, 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 tr in next dc, 5 ch, in the corner (3-ch-loop) work: 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (instead of 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in the corner).
ROUND 7: 3 ch, 2 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in same ch-loop (= corner), * 5 tr in 5-ch-loop, 3 tr in every 3-ch-loop, 5 tr in 5-ch-loop, in the corner (3-ch-loop) work: 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in the corner). Cut the thread.
ROUND 8: Switch to dark beige. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, * in the corner (2-ch-loop) work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr, continue to work 1 tr in each of the next 22 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, in the corner work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr, continue with 1 tr in each of the next 19 tr, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 28 tr along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the thread. Fasten all threads.

CROCHET SQUARE 2:
Crochet a total of 10 pieces of Crochet square 2.
Crochet 6 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with light peach and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 16 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 2: 6 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 tr with 3 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 3 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut the thread.
ROUND 4: Switch to light old pink. Work 7 ch, * 1 dc between the next 2 leaves, 6 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 5: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 5 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 8 leaves. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROUND 6: Switch to off white and start with 1 sl st in 2nd tr (of the 5 tr) on first leaf, 1 ch, * 6 ch (= corner), skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr (last of the 5 tr) on same leaf, 5 ch, 1 dc in 2nd tr (of the 5 tr) on next leaf, 4 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr (last of the 5 tr) on same leaf, 5 ch, 1 dc in 2nd tr (of the 5 tr) on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in 2nd tr on next leaf).
ROUND 7: 1 sl st in 6-ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 3 tr + 4 ch + 4 tr in same ch-loop (= corner), * (4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, 4 ch, in the corner work 4 tr + 4 ch + 4 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 3 times and finish with 4 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 8: Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, * in 4-ch-loop in the corner work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr, 2 tr in next ch-loop, 3 tr in each of the next 2 ch-loops, 2 tr in next ch-loop, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg round (instead of 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr) = 24 tr along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the thread. Fasten all threads.

CROCHET SQUARE 3:
Crochet a total of 13 pieces of Crochet square 3.
Crochet 6 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with dark beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), work 15 tr in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 tr. Cut the thread.
ROUND 2: Switch to off white. Work 5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 16 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr in same ch-loop, * (1 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, 1 ch, in next ch-loop (= corner) work: 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROUND 4: Switch to powder pink and start with 1 sl st in 3-ch-loop in first corner. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr in same ch-loop, * (2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, 2 ch, in next ch-loop (= corner) work 2 tr + 3 ch + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work sl st until beg of ch-loop in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in same ch-loop, * (2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 5 times, 2 ch, in next ch-loop (= corner) work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 5 times, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROUND 6: Switch to dark old pink and start with 1 sl st in 2-ch-loop in first corner. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in same ch-loop, * (2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, 2 ch, in next ch-loop (= corner) work 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 7: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, * in ch-loop in the corner work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, (2 tr in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times but finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg round (instead of 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr) = 24 tr along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the thread. Fasten all threads.

CROCHET SQUARE 4:
Crochet a total of 12 pieces of Crochet square 4.
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 8 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 2: 4 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 3: Crochet in every ch-loop as follows: 1 dc, 4 tr, 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in first dc = 8 leaves.
ROUND 4: Fold the leaves towards you and crochet at the back of these as follows: 1 dc in first dc from 2nd round, 8 ch (= 1 tr + 5 ch), * 1 tr in next dc from 2nd round, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 5: Crochet in every ch-loop as follows: 1 dc, 6 tr, 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 8 leaves. Cut the thread.
ROUND 6: Switch to dark beige. Fold the leaves towards you and crochet at the back of these as follows: 1 dc in first tr from 4th round, 10 ch (= 1 tr + 7 ch), * 1 tr in next tr from 4th round, 7 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 7: Crochet in every ch-loop as follows: 1 dc, 8 tr, 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 8 leaves. Cut and fasten the thread.
ROUND 8: Switch to powder pink and work 1 sl st in first tr on first leaf, 6 ch (= 1 tr + 3 ch), 1 dtr-group in fourth tr on first leaf - SEE EXPLANATION ABOVE, 5 ch, 1 dtr-group in fifth tr on same leaf, * 3 ch, 1 tr in last tr on same leaf, 3 ch, 1 dc in third tr on next leaf, 3 ch, 1 dc in sixth tr on same leaf, 3 ch, 1 tr in first tr on next leaf, 3 ch, 1 dtr-group in fourth tr on same leaf, 5 ch, 1 dtr-group in fifth tr on same leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, 3 ch, 1 tr in last tr on same leaf, 3 ch, 1 dc in third tr on next leaf, 3 ch, 1 dc in sixth tr on same leaf, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr in same ch-loop, 2 ch, * 1 dtr-group in 5-ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dtr-group in same ch-loop, 2 ch, (3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch), repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* a total 3 times, 1 dtr-group in 5-ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dtr-group in same ch-loop, 2 ch, (3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch), repeat from (-) a total of 4 times and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 10: Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sts and 1 sl st in first ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr in same ch-loop, 1 ch, * in the corner (in 5-ch-loop) work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, (1 ch, 2 tr in next ch-loop), repeat from (-) a total of 4 times, 1 ch, 3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* total of 4 times but finish last time with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (instead of 3 tr in next ch-loop) = 18 tr along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the thread. Fasten all threads.

ASSEMBLY:
45 squares have now been worked.
Place the squares with 5 squares in breadth and 9 squares in height. First crochet squares tog alongside and then across. Work squares tog with off white by working through the edge of 2 and 2 squares at a time as follows: * 1 dc through the edge of 2 squares, 2 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-*.

EDGE:
Crochet 1 round with off white around the entire blanket as follows:
* 1 dc in edge, 2 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.08.2011
CROCHET SQUARE 4:...ROUND 10: ... = 18 tr along each side and 2 ch in every corner. Cut the thread. Fasten all threads.
Updated online: 31.08.2011
CROCHET SQUARE 1:...ROUND 8: ....= 28 tr along each side and...
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Eva Warnke wrote:

Die Quadrate haben alle unterschiedliche Größen. Wie werden die denn nun zusammen gehäkelnt bzw. auf eine Größe gebracht, damit sie zusammen gehäkelt werden können?

14.06.2014 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Eva, an sich sollten alle Quadrate bereits die gleiche Größe haben. Sie können die Quadrate auf einer geeigneten Unterlage im angegebenen Maß mit Stecknadeln feststecken, anfeuchten und trocknen zu lassen, damit alle gleich groß werden.

14.06.2014 - 15:21

country flag Maria wrote:

Hvis jeg kun vil lave rude 1 og 2 i tæppet men 0,5 gang større, hvad skal jeg så købe af garn?

28.04.2014 - 07:07

DROPS Design answered:

Du kan prøve at regne ud hvor mange ruder du får ud af 1 nøgle i en farvekombination og så dele det antal ruder med totalantal du behøver i den kombination.

28.04.2014 - 08:23

country flag Malene wrote:

Hei! Holder på med teppet! Men rute nr 4 blir så utrolig mye større en de 3 andre?

24.03.2014 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Malene. Det burde ikke vaere tilfaeldet. Pröv at se billedet - vi har markeret hver rute. Rute 4 har en blomst som er haeklet "ovenpaa" ruten - derfor flere omgange. Har du maaske heklet forkert?

25.03.2014 - 17:13

country flag Kathy wrote:

I am in the middle of making this blanket and have already run out of light old pink the pattern states 100g needed. Also in square 2 rows 5 and 6 are wrong it should be 1 tr in chain loop not 1 dc. I looked on the cushion pattern as my square was not a square.

24.11.2013 - 10:17

country flag Jorunn K. Almendingen wrote:

Hei. Nydelig teppe, men etter deres oppskrift sitter jeg igjen med for lite garn nr. 59 lys gammelrosa og nå må dette etterbestilles. Da blir det dyrt for et garnnøste med frakt og ekspedisjonsomkostninger.

17.11.2013 - 14:54

country flag H.j.van De Hoef wrote:

Ik heb de zelfde vragen over naald 4, kom ik niet uit, wat betekent vanaf de haak, en zijn 't er totaal 9 bogen?

16.11.2013 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi. Betreffend toer 4: Je hebt net 5 l gehaakt en haakt vervolgens 1 hv in de 5e l van de haak - oftewel de 1e l die je net hebt gehaakt.

20.11.2013 - 17:08

country flag Mel Scheck wrote:

Super, danke, habe es auch so probiert und hat toll geklappt.

23.10.2013 - 13:51

country flag Melanie Scheck wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zum Viereck-1 4. Runde: es steht 5 LM dann 1 KM in die 5. LM von der Nadel...was heißt das? Muss ich 5 LM nach unten zählen?

22.10.2013 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, das bedeuet, dass Sie in die 5. Lm (von der Nadel entfernt) der SOEBEN GEHÄKELTEN Lm häkeln und nicht in eine Masche der vorherigen Rd.

23.10.2013 - 07:58

country flag Lone wrote:

Har bestilt garn efter Jeres opskrift, står nu og mangler farve 59 lys gammelrosa, har købt 100 gr. det forslår ikke der skal bruges 50 gr. mere, da jeg bestiller garn over nettet fordyrer det når man ikke kan rette sig efter Jeres opskrift

09.08.2013 - 10:42

country flag Linda wrote:

Øv. Har hæklet alle firkanter af hæklerude-1 (endda ekstra for at gøre tæppet større). Da jeg så har lavet hæklerude-2, ser jeg, at den er mindre end nr 1, som skal ende med 28 stangmasker + 2 lm i hvert hjørne. De resterende ender med 24 + 2, og hæklerude-4 med 18 + 2. Er det nok, at jeg hækler 2 ekstra stangmasker i 8. omgang? Eksempelvis 3 i stedet for 2 i lm-buen på hver side af hjørnet? Håber på hurtigt svar.

25.07.2013 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

De fire ruder er lavet forskelligt, men maal og diagonalen skulle vaere den samme med den rette haeklefasthed. För du haekler större ville jeg anbefale at vaske ruderne og spaende dem op for at se om det ikke hjaelper. Hjaelper det ikke og har du den rette fasthed, saa kan du jo altid haekle ekstra stangmasker i hjörnet, hvis du ogsaa selv synes det bliver paenere :-) god fornöjelse

29.08.2013 - 16:17