DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.45€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Afternoon

Knitted DROPS sweater with lace pattern and round yoke in "Alpaca" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 127-2
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-536
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 0100, eco off white:
250-300-300-350-350-400 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 01, off white:
100-125-125-150-150-175 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm and 40 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.45€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

DECREASE TIP (applies to the body):
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of markers.
Dec as follows BEFORE marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows AFTER marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 146-162-178-194-214-234 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk. Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 marker after 73-81-89-97-107-117 sts and 1 marker after last st on round (= mid of each side). Work 6 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 7 cm, dec 1 st each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat the dec every 2½ cm a total of 6 times = 122-138-154-170-190-210 sts. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 25 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers by K 2 sts in the st before and after the marker. Repeat inc every 3-3-3½-4-7-7 cm a total of 4-4-4-4-3-3 times = 138-154-170-186-202-222 sts. When piece measures 37-38-40-42-43-44 cm, cast off the middle 8 sts each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 4 sts each side of marker) = 122-138-154-170-186-206 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 38-40-42-44-46-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk. Work 6 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above! Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker by K 2 sts in the st before and after the marker. Repeat inc every 3½-3-3-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 8-9-10-10-11-12 times = 54-58-62-64-68-72 sts. When piece measures 39-39-40-40-40-40 cm, cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. cast off 4 sts each side of marker) = 46-50-54-56-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body = 214-238-262-282-306-334 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers). Beg round in transition between right sleeve and back piece. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME on next round dec for RAGLAN (= 8 dec on every dec-round) - see explanation above! Repeat dec on every other row a total of 2-3-3-3-4-5 times = 198-214-238-258-274-294 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 4 rounds in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 2 sts evenly in all sizes = 200-216-240-260-276-296 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work M.1 over all sts for 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 and work 4 rounds in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME on last round P, dec 28-32-40-48-52-56 sts evenly = 172-184-200-212-224-240 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work M.1 for 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 4 rounds in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME on last round P, dec 32-32-32-36-40-44 sts evenly = 140-152-168-176-184-196 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work M.1 for 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 44-54-70-72-76-88 sts evenly = 96-98-98-104-108-108 sts. P 1 round. Cut the thread. Insert a marker mid front on front piece. Continue to work an elevation in the neck back and forth with short rows as follows, beg 24-24-25-26-27-27 sts after the marker (1st row = from RS): K until 24-24-25-26-27-27 sts remain before marker, turn piece, K back until 24-24-25-26-27-27 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, K until 29-29-30-32-33-33 sts remain before marker, turn piece and K back until 29-29-30-32-33-33 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, K until 34-35-35-38-39-39 sts remain before marker, turn piece and K back until 34-35-35-38-39-39 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece, K until 40-41-41-44-46-46 sts remain before marker, turn piece and K back until 40-41-41-44-46-46 sts remain before marker in the other side. Cut the thread. Then work 2 rounds in garter st over all sts, start at beg of elevation (= 24-24-25-26-27-27 sts after marker). Cast off. Piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Tiny Van Baal wrote:

Ik moet in het patroon voor de hals verdeeld minderen ik heb 168 steken verdeeld minderen naar 98 steken,kom niet uit de rekensom

06.08.2023 - 08:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tiny,

Je moet dus 70 steken minderen, 168 gedeeld door 70 = 2,4. Je zou steeds afwisselend na 2 en 3 steken kunnen minderen en dan ietsje vaker na 2 steken.

08.08.2023 - 20:50

country flag Tiny Van Baal wrote:

Waar begin ik met de mouwen aan te breien

24.04.2023 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tiny,

Je breit eerst het lijf tot de oksels. Dan laat je het werk liggen. Vervolgens brei je de mouwen tot de oksels. Daarna zet je de mouwen en het lijf samen op de naald om vervolgens de pas te breien.

27.04.2023 - 08:08

country flag Tiny Van Baal wrote:

Bij de mouw moet je meerderen door 2 steken samen te breien, dat is minderen niet meerderen

27.03.2023 - 19:33

country flag Gail Swainger wrote:

Hello! I have started knitting this lovely cardigan, but I cannot see the diagram for the lacework. The diagram explanations are shown, as well as the sizing chart, but no grid. Am I looking in the wrong place or misreading the pattern? Cheers, Gail

10.02.2023 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Swainger, you will find the diagram to the lace pattern (M.1) next to the measurement chart, below the sleeve, it's a small diagram worked over 4 stitches and 4 rows. Happy knitting!

10.02.2023 - 13:16

country flag Jeanette Friberg wrote:

Der mangler oplysning om cm mål på opskriften. Hvilket bryst mål passer til medium - large?

06.02.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jeanette, du finder målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. Brystmålet på large er 50 cm x 2 = 100 cm :)

08.02.2023 - 07:35

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hallo, wie lege ich denn fest welches Teil das Vorder- und welches das Rückenteil ist? Bis zur Passe sind ja beide identisch. Und sollen bei der Passe am Anfang wirklich nur beim Vorderteil die Maschen abgenommen werden (also bei Größe M 24 Maschen über 3 Rd. verteilt im Vorderteil)? Vielen Dank schonmal für die Hilfe und liebe Grüße!

30.01.2023 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, bis die verkürzten Reihen für die Erhöhung am Halsausschnitt sind beide Vorder- und Rückenteil gleich, dann entscheiden Sie sich für die eine Seite für Rücken und stricken die Erhöhung von der mittere hinten. Am Anfang der Passe stricken Sie Raglanabnahmen (= Je 1 Masche beidseitig von jeder Markierungen = 8 M/Abnahmenrunde), dann nehmen Sie regelmäßig verteilt ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.01.2023 - 09:54

country flag Gunvor Ruud wrote:

Jeg stusser på mønsterforklaringen. Er M1 lik Diagramforklaringen? Og da felles 1 maske for hver 7. maske i 5 cm? Veldig dårlig forklart. Holder på å gi opp😢

30.05.2022 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunvor, ja du starter nederst i højre hjørne af diagrammet med 1.omgang: ta 1 m løst av p, 1 rett, løft den løse m over, 1 kast, ta 1 m løst av p, 1 rett, løft den løse m over, 1 kast osv. 2.omgang strikker du rett og 3 omgang strikker du: 1 kast, 2 rett sammen, 1 kast, 2 rett sammen osv

02.06.2022 - 10:35

country flag Anne Britt Johannessen wrote:

Jeg lurer litt på diagrammet på nr 2 står det 1kast mellom 2 masker strikker jeg 1 maske og et kast og så en rett maske er det riktig. Da blir det 2 rette før kastet ikke sant

25.01.2022 - 23:42

country flag Maria Ausilia wrote:

Buongiorno, ho quasi completato il maglioncino 127-2, siccome sto' usando per la prima volta i ferri circolari, non riesco a capire le spiegazioni dell'alzata del collo, avete un video tutorial che mi faccia imparare? Ringraziandovi vi porgo cordiali saluti.

14.11.2021 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Ausilia, l'alzata sul collo si lavora a ferri accorciati, cioè lavorando su una parte delle maglie e non su tutte le maglie del ferro: deve semplicemente seguire le spiegazioni riportate. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2021 - 22:21

country flag Else Lie wrote:

Er det mulig å strikke denne genseren i 2 tråder Kid-silk? I så fall: Hvilke følger får det for pinne- og størrelsesvalg? Hvis jeg skal ta målene på denne modellen på alvor, må jeg velge XL størrelse. Normalt bruker jeg M (= 38/40). Jeg er redd genseren skal bli altfor stor! Jeg har strikket prøvelapp - fastheten virker grei hvis jeg bruker pinner 4 1/2. Her trenger jeg råd!

05.09.2021 - 12:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elsa. Denne genseren er strikket med Alpaca og Kid-Silk og da får den en mer tyngde, bedre passform enn om den skal strikkes med 2 tråder Kid-Silk. I str. XL og med Alpaca +Kid-Silk = en genser på ca 500 gram, mens med 2 tråder Kid-Silk = genser på 300 gram. Men om du overholder den oppgitte strikkefastheten, skal du kunne strikke med 2 tråder Kid-Silk. mvh DROPS design

13.09.2021 - 12:06