DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Frosted Pearl

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan sleeves with lace pattern in "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 130-33
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-542
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 4010, pearl grey:
350-400-450-500-550-600 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for rib and garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 7 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round): *K 1 round and P 1 round*, repeat from *-*.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = cast off 5th st from mid front. Cast on 1 new st over the cast off st.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56 cm.
SIZE M: 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50, 58 cm.
SIZE L: 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 cm.
SIZE XL: 8, 17, 26, 35, 44, 53, 62 cm.
SIZE XXL: 10, 19, 28, 37, 46, 55, 64 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 12, 21, 30, 39, 48, 57, 66 cm.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1A (= 7 sts), M.1B (= 14 sts) and M.1C (= 8 sts). The diagram shows the pattern from RS.

KNITTING TIP:
If knitting tension is incorrect in height and the knitting is too tight, the raglan sleeve will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted by working 1 extra row without dec evenly spaced between dec.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 412-448-490-538-598-652 sts (incl 10 band sts each side) on circular needle 2.5 mm with Alpaca (large no of sts to avoid a tight rib). P 1 row from WS. Continue to work rib from RS as follows: 10 band sts (K on every row until finished measurements), * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 10 band sts. When piece measures 2 cm, dec 1 st in every P section, repeat dec when piece measures 4 cm = 282-306-334-366-406-442 sts. Continue with rib K2/P2. When rib measures 6 cm, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 62-70-74-82-98-110 sts evenly = 220-236-260-284-308-332 sts. Continue in stocking st with 10 sts in garter st each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert a marker each side, 61-65-71-77-83-89 sts in from mid front (back piece = 98-106-118-130-142-154 sts). Continue in stocking st and band sts in garter st. When piece measures 8-10-12-8-10-12 cm, cast off for first BUTTON HOLE on right front band - see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm, dec 1 st each side of the marker in each side. Repeat the dec every 2 cm a total of 5 times = 200-216-240-264-288-312 sts. When piece measures 24 cm, inc 1 st each side of the marker in each side. Repeat the inc every 2½-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm a total of 5 times = 220-236-260-284-308-332 sts. Continue to work in stocking st until piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm. Now K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 217-231-259-287-301-329 sts (inc/dec evenly but not over the band sts). P 1 row from WS. On next row from RS work PATTERN as follows - see explanation above: 10 sts in garter st, M.1A (= 7 sts), M.1B (= 14 sts) until 18 sts remain, finish with M.1C (= 8 sts) and 10 sts in garter st. Continue with pattern. When M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts back to 220-236-260-284-308-332 sts (piece now measures approx. 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm). K next row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 12 sts for armhole each side (i.e. 6 sts each side of every marker) = 196-212-236-260-284-308 sts. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 90-90-95-95-100-100 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. K 1 round. Continue to work rib as follows: * K2, P3 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 2 cm, dec 1 st in every P section = 72-72-76-76-80-80 sts. Continue with rib K2/P2. When rib measures 5 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-14-16-12-14-14 sts evenly = 56-58-60-64-66-66 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 1 st each side of marker every 2½-2½-2-2-2-1½ cm a total of 13-14-16-17-17-20 times = 82-86-92-98-100-106 sts. When piece measures 44-44-43-43-43-43 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 84-84-98-98-98-112 sts (inc/dec evenly on the round). Continue working M.1B over all sts. When M.1B has been worked 1 time vertically, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts back to 82-86-92-98-100-106 sts (piece now measures approx. 47-47-46-46-46-46 cm - NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width). K next round while AT THE SAME TIME casting off the 12 sts mid under sleeve (= 6 sts each side of marker) = 70-74-80-86-88-94 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 336-360-396-432-460-496 sts. Switch to circular needle 2.5 mm and insert 10-10-10-10-11-11 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1 marker after 33-36-36-40-40-43 sts, then insert 9-9-9-9-10-10 markers with 30-32-36-39-38-41 sts between each, after last marker there are 33-36-36-41-40-43 sts. READ KNITTING TIP! The yoke is worked in garter st (1st row = from WS): Work 5-5-1-1-3-1 rows without dec, then dec 1 st alternately on the left and right side of every marker on every 4th row a total of 20-21-23-25-25-27 times = 136-150-166-182-185-199 sts.

NECKLINE:
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-20-32-44-43-53 sts evenly = 130-130-134-138-142-146 sts. Now work an elevation in the back of neck. K all rows. Work as follows from WS: Work 75-75-77-79-81-83 sts, turn and work 20 sts back. Turn and work 30 sts. Turn and work 40 sts. Turn and work 50 sts. Turn and work 60 sts. Turn and work 70 sts. Turn and work 80 sts. Turn and work 90 sts. Turn and work 100 sts. Turn and work 110 sts. Turn and work 120 sts. Turn and K all sts on the needle. K 6 rows over all sts. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the button on to left front piece.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Małgorzata Urban wrote:

Karczek jest przerabiany ściegiem francuskim (1-szy rząd = na lewej stronie robótki): przerobić 5-5-1-1-3-1 rzędów bez zamykania oczek, dalej zamykać 1 o. na przemian, raz po lewej, a raz po prawej stronie każdego markera w sumie 20-21-23-25-25-27 razy co 4 rzędy = 136-150-166.........co oznacza na przemian , czy w pierwszym 4 rzędzie zamykam tylko z lewej strony każdego markera, przerabiam kolejne 4 rzędy i zamykam tylko z prawej strony każdego markera itd

01.02.2021 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Małgosiu, jak zamykasz oczka 1-szy raz to zamykasz 1 o. zawsze z lewej strony każdego markera. 4 rzędy później zamykasz 1 o. z prawej strony każdego markera, itd. Miłej pracy!

01.02.2021 - 20:02

country flag Maria Grazia wrote:

Salve! Ringrazio per la cortese e tempestiva risposta, ma sono riuscita a capire il passaggio che non mi era , inizialmente, chiaro. Cordiali saluti

09.10.2019 - 21:03

country flag Maria Grazia wrote:

Salve! Gradirei sapere se la diminuzione a destra e quella a sinistra vanno eseguite , ciascuna, ogni 4 ferri. Mille ringraziamenti

08.10.2019 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Grazia, ci spiega esattamente il punto che non le è chiaro? A quali diminuzioni fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!

08.10.2019 - 19:35

country flag Maria Grazia wrote:

Fascinoso e facile da indossare : semplicemente bellissimo. Grazie

14.05.2019 - 18:12

country flag Tina Jaque wrote:

Som svar på jeres svar...har altså fundet opskriften på nettet og under den står der en rettelse.. kan bare ikke se hvor i opskriften og istedet for hvad rettelsen skal erstatte.. ? \r\nSå fatter ikkke i svarer at opskriften er korrekt??

14.08.2018 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, Opskriften på nettet er rettet, og når du skriver opskriften ud så får den rettede opskrift. De som har et ældre katalog eller som har skrevet opskriften ud før rettelsen (se dato) bør skrive den nye opskrift ud :)

15.08.2018 - 08:12

country flag Tina Jaque wrote:

Hej. Har købt garntil denne lækre trøje.. kan simpelthen ikke forstå HVOR OG ISTEDET FOR HVAD rettelsen er.. mon det muligt at modtage opskrift der helt korrekt på mail ellers har jeg ikke mod på at gå igang med denne lækre trøje. Venlig hilsen Tina Jaque

06.08.2018 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, opskriften på nettet er korrekt, så det er bare at gå igang. God fornøjelse!

14.08.2018 - 14:53

country flag Cecilia wrote:

Hola, estoy tejiendo esta chaqueta y voy a hacerla toda lisa (sin los M1A, M1B y M1C). Según indicáis hay que menguar los puntos para la sisa cuando la labor misa 43 para talla L pero al consultar el dibujo con las medidas indicáis 62 (para talla L) hasta la sisa. ¿De qué medida me dio de los 43 o de los 62? (Son casi 20 de diferencia) Gracias

14.01.2015 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cecilia. 62 cm es el largo total y 62 cm - 19 cm (la sisa) = 43 cm cuando empezamos a cerrar para la sisa.

14.01.2015 - 23:05

country flag Monica wrote:

Jag råkade skriva min fråga under kommentarer, jag hoppas att ni kan läsa den där och svara.

10.08.2013 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Minskningarna görs på vart 4:e varv och då på varannan sida, så det blir alltså 8 varv mellan varje höger- resp. vänsterminskning. Lycka till!

29.08.2013 - 12:08

country flag Monica wrote:

Jag undrar om ihoptagningarna på oket: det står "...sedan minskas 1 m växelvis på höger och vänster sida om varje markör på vart 4:e v totalt 21 ggr" Ska jag minska vänster vart 4:e varv och höger vart 4:e varv, alltså en minskning vartannat varv, eller blir det 8 varv mellan varje höger- resp. vänsterminskning?

25.07.2013 - 20:33

Jacqueline McKay wrote:

Could please verify that the tension of 24 stitched x32rows = 10x10cms with 3mm needles is correct to give a result of 82 cms for the finished size of pattern 130-33 with 412 stitches cast on for small size.

09.03.2013 - 03:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McKay, you cast on first 412 sts in size S, work in rib K2/P4, then dec P1 in each P section when work measures 4 cm = 282 sts. When work measures 6 cm, continue with needle size 3 mm in st st inc 62 sts evenly = 220 sts including 10 sts front band each side. You then have the right measurements. Happy knitting!

09.03.2013 - 09:38