DROPS / 129 / 18

Neptunia Socks by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS ankle socks with lace in "Fabel".

Tags: lace, socks,

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-148
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Sock height: approx. 7 - 8 - 9 cm

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50-50-100 g colour no 103, greyblue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm –
or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
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DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 5-5-6 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 5-5-6 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 4-4-5 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 4-4-5 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 13-13-15 sts on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 50-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. K 1 round, continue in rib = K1/P1 for 2-2-3 cm. Now keep the first 21-21-25 sts on needle for heel and slip the last 29-35-35 sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot). Work in stocking st back and forth on heel sts for 5-5.5-6 cm.
Insert a marker in the middle of heel - now measure piece from here! Now dec for heel - see HEEL DECREASE! After heel dec, knit up 13-14-15 sts along each side of heel and slip the 29-35-35 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 68-76-80 sts.
Insert a marker in each side of the middle 29-29-35 sts on upper foot. Continue in stocking st under foot, work the 29-29-35 sts on upper foot as follows: M.1A (= 2 sts), repeat M.1B over the next 24-24-30 sts (= 4-4-5 times) and finish with M.1C (= 3 sts).
AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog the 2 last sts before the 29-29-35 sts twisted (i.e knit in the back loop instead of front) and K tog the first 2 sts after the middle 29-29-35 sts on upper foot. Repeat the dec every other round a total of 10-12-12 times = 48-52-56 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-19-22 cm from marker on heel (= approx. 4-5-5 cm remain).
Insert a marker in the first st in each side so that there are 23-25-27 sts on upper foot and 23-25-27 sts under foot.
Continue in stocking st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes in each side of the markers as follows - beg 2 sts before the marker: K2 tog, K1 (marker is in this st), K2 twisted tog. Continue dec in each side on every other round a total of 4-7-6 times and then on each round a total of 6-4-6 times = 8 sts left on needle.
Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Diagram

= K
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 129-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Christine 03.10.2019 - 02:34:

I am almost ready to decrease for the toe shaping...once again, I do not understand...I have 52 stitches, but the pattern says separate 25 stitches , for the underfoot and 25 stitches for the upper foot...what happens to the other 2 sts?, sigh...sorry to be such a pain...

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 09:29:

Dear Christine, there should be 25 stitches for both upper and under foot + 1 stitch with marker on each side = 52 sts in total. Happy knitting!

Kendall 01.10.2019 - 15:40:

Christine,thanks for your help I appreciated it😊I figured out to put the 35 stitches to the side by talking it over with my sister,she knits too,and the comment just confirmed it which is great and if you still need help on when to start the lace pattern,you start the lace pattern the row after you pick up the 14 side stitches go across the top of the sock and pick up the other 14 stitches once you get back to the 29 stitches that’s when you do the lace pattern I hope I helped😊

Christine 01.10.2019 - 02:06:

Kendall, clearly I was wrong. This is not a typo error. As you can see from the answers. I was wrong and hope I have not confused you. now I understand. if you need help, don’t be shy, I can now help 😊

Christine 30.09.2019 - 14:11:

Thank you for your answer. Does that mean that I should put 3 stitches from the 35 to the 14 stitches picked up on both sides, and work the decrease including those 3 stitches? Thank you.

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 16:04:

Dear Christine, you will decrease before the 29 stitches (first 3 from the 35 sts are worked with the picked up stitches in stocking stitch) and after the 29 stitches in pattern (= the last 3 from the 35 sts are worked with the picked up sts in stocking st), ie these 3 sts on either side of the 29 middle sts will be worked in stocking stitch and decreased for instep. Happy knitting!

Christine 28.09.2019 - 20:03:

At what point do you start working with the Diagram please? I am totally confused. I am at the point where I have picked up 14 stitches on both sides as well as the 35 stitches that were on the stitch holder. I now have 76 stitches on the needles, but I am unsure how to proceed at this point. With big thanks in advance.

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 10:26:

Dear Christine, once you get the 76 sts on the needle (= heel is now worked),k you now work the stitches from under foot in stocking stitch (= over the first 3 sts from the 35 sts slipped on a thread + the last 3 sts from these 35 sts (=29 sts remain for upper foot) + the stitches from heel while decreasing for instep and work the 29 stitches (upper foot, the stitches slipped on a thread) in pattern: : M.1A (= 2 sts), then repeat M.1B a total of 4 times in width (= 24 sts) and finish with M.1C (= 3 sts) = 2+24+3= 29 stitches. Happy knitting!

Christine 28.09.2019 - 18:49:

Kendall, I just started this yesterday and came across the same problem. I figured it out to be simply a typo, and followed the pattern with 35 (for the medium sock). It is working out perfectly like that. I hope this helps.

Kendall 28.09.2019 - 16:28:

How come you go from 35 stitches on top of the foot to 29?wheres the rest of the stitches?and then at the end when you work the toe where’s the missing two stitches?

Adeline 02.09.2019 - 15:21:

Bonjour, je voulais savoir pour le motif du dessus du pied, quand on tricote comme c'est noté sur le diagramme, on se retrouve avec des motifs qui ne sont pas alignés comme sur la photo, mais qui se chevauche, du coup le rendu final n'est pas le même. Est ce que c'est normal ou est ce qu'il y a une erreur dans le diagramme? Pour avoir le même rendu que la photo je doit tricoter le rang 3 à chaque rang de motif au lieu du rang 7. Je trouve ça bizarre. Merci de me répondre au plus vite.

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 16:55:

Bonjour Adeline, le diagramme correspond bien au motif, les jours se font en décalé espacés de 3 mailles, puis la fois suivante au-dessus des 3 mailles jersey, et ainsi de suite. Pensez à bien vérifier votre tension, cela modifie parfois le rendu. Bon tricot!

Loly Aguilar Araujo 24.08.2019 - 14:14:

Estoy haciendo latalla 38-40 y poneis que en el empeine a que dejar 35puntos ,pero cuando hay que insertar el marca puntos decis solo 29 puntos , esta equivocado o es así. Gracias

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 21:14:

Hola Loly. El patrón está correcto. En un sitio se hablan de 35 puntos en total y en otro - sobre los 29 puntos centrales del empeine.

Loly Aguilar Araujo 23.08.2019 - 14:30:

Quisiera saber si el esquema del empeine está equivocado ,pues no me queda un dibujo uniforme. Gracias

DROPS Design 31.08.2019 kl. 21:24:

Hola Loly. El patrón y el diagrama son correctos.

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