DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Hortensia Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with rib and lace pattern on round yoke in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 127-16
DROPS design: Pattern no W-400
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Colour no 59, light old pink:
500-550-600-650-700-800 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON LIGHT, NO 503:
7-7-8-8-8-8 pieces.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. NOTE! See diagram for size.

BUTTON HOLES:
Cast off for button holes on right front band. 1 button hole = cast off 4th st from mid front. On next row cast on 1 new st over the cast off st.
Cast off for button holes when piece measures:
NOTE! cast off the last button hole on row after dec in P sections in neckline.
SIZE S: 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, 54 and 57 cm.
SIZE M: 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56 and 59 cm.
SIZE L: 16, 23, 30, 37, 44, 51, 58 and 61 cm.
SIZE XL: 18, 25, 32, 39, 46, 53, 60 and 63 cm.
SIZE XXL: 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, 54, 62 and 65 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56, 64 and 67 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 189-210-225-246-270-294 sts (incl 7 band sts each side) on circular needle 4.5 mm with Paris. Work next row from RS as follows: 7 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, rib K1/P2 until 8 sts remain, finish with K1 and 7 sts in garter st.
7 sts each side = band, work band in garter st until finished measurements. Continue with rib and bands in garter st until piece measures 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. On next row from RS K while AT THE SAME TIME dec 27-32-35-38-42-46 sts evenly on needle (do not dec over band sts) = 162-178-190-208-228-248 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece after 44-48-51-56-60-65 sts each side (back piece = 74-82-88-96-108-118 sts). Continue in stocking st with 7 band sts each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st each side of every marker (= 4 dec). Repeat the dec every 2 cm a total of 5 times = 142-158-170-188-208-228 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-16-16-18-14-16 cm, cast off for first BUTTON HOLE - see explanation above - on right front band. When piece measures 23 cm, inc 1 st each side of every marker (= 4 inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 150-166-178-196-216-236 sts. When piece measures 37-39-40-42-42-44 cm, cast off on next row from WS, 8 sts each side for armholes (cast off 4 sts each side of every marker) = 134-150-162-180-200-220 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle. Cast on 48-48-51-54-54-57 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work rib K1/P2 over all sts. When rib measures 6 cm, switch to double pointed needles 5 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-9-10-10-11 sts evenly = 40-40-42-44-44-46 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue in the round in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3½-3½-2½-2½ cm a total of 8-9-10-10-12-13 times = 56-58-62-64-68-72 sts. When piece measures 42 cm, cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. cast off 4 sts each side of marker) = 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves and body on to same circular needle size 4.5 mm = 230-250-270-292-320-348 sts.
K next row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-19-21-22-29-33 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 216-231-249-270-291-315 sts. K 4 rows (= 2 ridges) and then work next row from WS as follows: 7 sts in garter st, *P1, K2*, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain, finish with P1 and 7 sts in garter st. Work 6-6-6-6-8-8 rows with K over K and P over P. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-16-22-25-28-34 sts evenly = 203-215-227-245-263-281 sts. K 3 rows (= 2 ridges). On next row from RS work as follows (NOTE! see diagram for size): 7 sts in garter st, M.1A (= 3 sts), then work M.1B until 7 sts remain, finish with 7 sts in garter st. When M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-23-26-29-35-38 sts evenly = 183-192-201-216-228-243 sts. K 3 rows (= 2 ridges). K 1 row from RS. Work next row from WS as follows: 7 sts in garter st, *P1, K2*, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain, finish with P1 and 7 sts in garter st. Work 6-6-6-6-8-8 rows with K over K and P over P. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 22-25-28-31-37-40 sts evenly = 161-167-173-185-191-203 sts. K 3 rows (= 2 ridges). On next row from RS work as follows (NOTE! see diagram for size): 7 sts in garter st, M.1A (= 3 sts), then work M.1B until 7 sts remain, finish with 7 sts in garter st. When M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 35-38-41-50-50-56 sts evenly = 126-129-132-135-141-147 sts. K 3 rows (= 2 ridges). K 1 row from RS. Work next row from WS as follows: 7 sts in garter st, *P1, K2*, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain, finish with P1 and 7 sts in garter st. Continue working an elevation in the neck with short rows with K over K and P over P as follows (1st row = from RS): Work until 31-32-33-34-35-36 sts remain on needle, turn piece, work back until 31-32-33-34-35-36 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work until 41-42-44-45-47-48 sts remain on needle, turn piece, work back until 41-42-44-45-47-48 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work until 51-52-55-56-59-60 sts remain, turn piece and work back until 51-52-55-56-59-60 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work until 61-62-66-67-71-72 sts remain, turn piece and work back until 61-62-66-67-71-72 sts remain on the other side. Turn piece, work the rest of the row. Turn piece. Work 1 row with K over K and P over P over all sts (work band sts as before). On next row from RS, dec 1 st in every P section by working all P2 into P1 = 89-91-93-95-99-103 sts. Work 3 rows rib K1/P1 with 7 sts in garter st each side, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Sherrie Van Akker wrote:

I can't find how many balls of yarn to use for this pattern?

22.09.2023 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sherrie, the amount is stated in the materials section. You need : 500-550-600-650-700-800 g of Paris, depending on the size. DROPS Paris is sold in 50g balls. So you would need 10-11-12-13-14-16 balls of yarn. Happy knitting!

24.09.2023 - 20:49

country flag Lina Thorne wrote:

Bonjour, Rendu à la toute fin du tricot, comment on fait pour diminuer 1m dans toutes les sections envers en tricotant 2 m ensemble à l'envers ? Sachant que je suis sur le côté endroit du tricot, je ne sais pas trop de quelle section du chandail vous parlez... Merci de votre aide !

26.03.2018 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thorne, sur l'endroit, vos côtes se présentent ainsi (7m point mousse), *1 m end/2 m env*, on répète de *-* et on termine par 1 m end, 7 m point mousse. Quand on droit diminuer sur l'endroit, on diminue les 2 m envers en les tricotant ens à l'envers = on obtient ainsi des côtes 1/1 entre les 7 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

28.03.2018 - 14:32

country flag Lina Thorne wrote:

Bonjour, rendu dans la partie "Empiécement" sa dit de tricoter avec l'aiguille 4,50mm... Ça ne serait pas plutôt sur la 5mm ? sa va paraître si on diminue la taille de l'aiguille, les points seront beaucoup plus serré, non ? Merci :)

20.03.2018 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thorne, l'empiècement se tricote bien avec des aiguilles 4,5. Bon tricot!

21.03.2018 - 09:11

country flag Sølvi Borgersen wrote:

Nydelig jakke. Har nå strikket den i drops paris og skjønte ganske fort at det ble alt for lite garn. Har strikket den i XXL og måtte ha nesten 5 ekstra nøster. Bare til info for andre.

17.07.2016 - 16:31

country flag Carina wrote:

Eine Frage zum Diagramm M.1: Verstehe ich es richtig, dass ich zuerst eine Masche rechts abhebe, dann 2 Maschen recht zusammenstricke und dann die abgehobene über die gestrickte Masche ziehe? Und wie stricke ich den Umschlag in der Rückreihe? Danke für die tolle Hilfe hier immer!:)

13.12.2015 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das haben Sie richtig verstanden. Den Umschlag stricken Sie in der Rück-R normal links ab, sodass sich ein Loch ergibt.

20.12.2015 - 10:40

country flag Carina wrote:

Sehe ich es richtig, dass die Ärmel in Runden gestrickt werden? Warum heißt es dann "(...) zu Nadelspiel 5 wechseln und 1 R. [= eine Reihe] stricken (...)" Sollte es dann nicht eine Runde heißen?

29.11.2015 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, Sie haben Recht, die Ärmel werden in Runden gestrickt, das ist ein Fehler in der Übersetzung, der gleich korrigiert wird. Weiterhin viel Spaß beim Stricken!

29.11.2015 - 22:39

country flag Carina wrote:

Jetzt hat sich noch eine Frage zur Anleitung ergeben. Es heißt zur Passe" (...) 6-6-6-6-8-8 Reihen rechts über rechts und links über links stricken. Weiter von der Vorderseite rechts stricken. (...)" Bedeutet der erste Satz, dass ich sowohl in der Hin- als auch in der Rückreihe z.B. rechts auf rechts (also Krausrechts) stricke? Und was bedeutet der zweite Satz? An dieser Stelle hakt es bei mir, das verstehe ich nicht. Vielen Dank für Ihre Mühe!:)

03.10.2015 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Es soll bedeuten, dass Sie die rechten M re und die linken M li stricken, also das Rippenmuster folgerichtig weiterstricken und die kraus-re-M weiter kraus re stricken. Der 2. Satz bedeutet, dass Sie in der nächsten Hin-R (= von der Vorderseite) rechts stricken.

13.10.2015 - 15:42

country flag Carina wrote:

Was macht es für einen Unterschied, wenn ich die Jacke nicht mit Paris (Baumwolle), sonder mit Big Merino (Schurwolle) stricke? Ist es z.B. wärmer? Oder leichter?

30.09.2015 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Wolle ist generell wärmer als Baumwolle, da die Wollfaser anders aufgebaut ist, sie isoliert mehr als Baumwolle. Baumwolle ist eher für Sommerjacken geeignet, Wolle für Herbst- und Winterjacken. Wenn Sie Big Merino verwenden, bekommt die Jacke kein anderes Gewicht, denn Paris und Big Merino haben die gleiche Lauflänge. Wenn Sie ein alternatives Garn benutzen, müssen Sie immer schauen, welche Lauflänge es hat und den Garnverbrauch entsprechend anpassen. Garnverbrauch im Original = Lauflänge pro Knäuel x Anzahl der benötigten Knäuel des Originalgarns. Hier müssen Sie nichts umrechnen, denn Paris und Big Merino haben beide 75m pro 50 g.

03.10.2015 - 11:19

country flag Sue wrote:

Thank you for quick response to my question. Perfect. Lovely pattern and brilliant website.

28.08.2014 - 16:08

country flag Sue wrote:

How do I attach the sleeves which are knitted in rounds, to the yoke please ?

28.08.2014 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, the video below will show you how to place the sleeve on same circular needle as front and back pieces. Happy knitting!

28.08.2014 - 14:21