DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Boo Blue

Set of knitted wrap-round jacket and pants in garter st with crochet borders and crochet teddy bear for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS Baby 20-24
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-040-by + ME-041-by + ME-028-by
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
200-200-200 (250-250) g colour nr 15, light grey/green
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, off-white (for crochet borders).

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm (for borders).
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PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 15, light grey/green
+ a remnant colour no 01, off-white (for tie ribbons)

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 3.5 mm (for rib).
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BEAR:
Measurements: length approx 30 cm
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 07, light brown mix
50 g colour no 19, light grey/blue
A remnant colour no 01, off-white
A remnant colour no 15, light grey/green
And use: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
A remnant colour no 151, guacamole
A remnant colour no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm – or size needed to get 19 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm – NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The teddy will fill out when filled with cotton wool.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm (for hearts).
COTTON WOOL for filling.
POLY STUFFING for filling.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
INCREASING TIP (applies to front piece):
Inc on every other and 3rd row as follows: work * 1 row without inc, 1 row with inc towards mid front, 2 rows without inc, 1 row with inc towards mid front *, repeat from *-*.
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the outermost st towards mid front.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg with one front piece, cast on sts for sleeve and work piece up to shoulder. Work the other front piece and slip the 2 front pieces tog to work the back piece from neck down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 26-29-33 (36-39) sts on circular needle size 4 mm with light grey/green. Work GARTER ST – see above! AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 inc 1 new st towards mid front. Repeat the inc towards mid front on every other and every 3rd row alternately - SEE INCREASING TIP - a total of 16-18-22 (24-26) times = 42-47-55 (60-65) sts. After the last inc work 8 rows garter st. Piece now measures approx 11-13-15 (16-17) cm.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
On next row dec 1 st towards mid front by K2 tog. Repeat the dec on every row (i.e. from RS as well as WS) a total of 0-2-8 (10-10) times and then on every other row a total of 24-24-24 (24-29) times (= 24-26-32 (34-39) dec sts).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-20 (21-23) cm cast on new sts at the end of every row towards the side for sleeve as follows: 3 sts 3-3-4 (4-4) times, 5 sts 2 times, 7 sts 0-0-0 (1-2) times and 16-18-19 (21-22) sts 1 time. When all inc and dec are complete there are 53-58-64 (76-84) sts on needle for shoulder/sleeve. Continue in garter st.
When piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm insert a marker = mid shoulder. Continue, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st at the end of row towards the neck 2 times = 55-60-66 (78-86) sts. Slip all sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work like right front piece but mirrored – NOTE. Make sure to finish from the same side as right front piece (either RS or WS) in order to work pieces from the same side when continuing for back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work 1 front piece onto circular needle (work from sleeve edge towards neck), cast on 12-12-16 (16-22) new sts (= neck on back piece) and work the other front piece onto needle (work from neck towards sleeve edge) = 122-132-148 (172-194) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM MARKERS ON SHOULDER!
Continue in garter st back and forth on needle.
When piece measures 6.5-7.5-8 (8.5-9) cm cast off all sleeve sts. Cast off at the beg of every row from each side as follows: 16-18-19 (21-22) sts 1 time, 7 sts 0-0-0 (1-2) times, 5 sts 2 times and 3 sts 3-3-4 (4-4) times = 52-58-66 (72-78) sts on needle. Continue until piece measures approx 26-28-31 (33-36) cm – fold piece double by shoulder and measure back piece to front pieces – and cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side- and sleeve seams in outer loops of sts.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet with off-white on crochet hook size 4 mm round the opening of jacket as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip 3 sts / 6 rows, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*. At the 2 points on front pieces, crochet tie ribbons as follows: 1 dc in point, then crochet a string of ch measuring approx 25 cm, turn and work 1 sl st in each ch on return row, work 1 dc in point again and continue the border round jacket opening. Crochet a similar border (without tie ribbons) round sleeve edges. Now crochet 2 tie ribbons as described for jacket opening on the inside of side seam on the right side of piece and on the outside of side seam on the left side of piece – make sure to place the ribbons to fit ribbons in points on front pieces.

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PANTS:

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.
DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, K1.
Dec as follows after marker: K1, K2 tog.
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LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles from bottom of leg towards the waist.
LOOSELY cast on 38-42-44 (48-50) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with light grey/green. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. Work rib, K1/P1, in the round for 4-4-5 (5-5) cm. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and continue in garter st – SEE ABOVE – AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 6-6-6 (5-5) sts evenly = 44-48-50 (53-55) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 6-6-6 (7-7) cm inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat the inc on every 1.5-2-2.5 (3-4) cm a total of 7 times = 58-62-64 (67-69) sts. When piece measures 16-19-22 (27-32) cm divide piece on the inside of leg and complete piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip legs on the same circular needle afterwards). Cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 60-64-66 (69-71) sts. When piece measures 18-21-24 (29-34) cm cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows (beg from RS) = 54-58-60 (63-65) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

PANTS:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 4 mm = 108-116-120 (126-130) sts. Insert a marker mid front. Continue in garter st in the round on circular needle, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st each side of marker mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-5-5 (4-4) times = 100-106-110 (118-122) sts.
When piece measures 29-34-38 (43-50) cm change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and continue in rib, K1/P1. Cast off LOOSELY with K over K and P over P when pants measures 36-42-46 (52-59) cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog split on the inside of each leg inside 1 edge st, and sew opening between legs.

TIE RIBBON:
Cut 2 threads off-white measuring approx 300 cm each. Twist the threads hard, fold them double and let them twist again. Tie a knot each end. Thread the ribbon through rib at waist with approx 4-5 sts between, beg and end mid front.

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TEDDY:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on round with 1 ch and finish each round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
CROCHET DC TOG:
Crochet 2 dc tog to 1 dc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HEAD AND BODY:
Beg at the top of head and after the head crochet the body. Then crochet ears, arms, and the hearts, which are sewn on afterwards.


HEAD:
SEE CROCHET INFO! Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 30 dc.
ROUND 6-11: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc.
ROUND 12: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc.
ROUND 13: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 15: * 1 dc in first dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
Now fill the head with cotton wool and continue in the round for body without cutting the thread.
ROUND 16-18: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 19: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 16 dc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 20 dc. Change to light grey/blue.
ROUND 21: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 20 dc. Change to light grey/green.
ROUND 22: * 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc. Change to light grey/blue.
ROUND 23: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc. Change to light grey/green.
ROUND 24: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 30 dc. Change to off-white.
ROUND 25: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc. Change to light grey blue and crochet the rest of the body as follows:
ROUND 26-29: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc.
ROUND 30: * 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 33 dc.
ROUND 31-39: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 33 dc.
ROUND 40: * 1 dc in each of the first 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 36 dc.
ROUND 41-46: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 36 dc.
ROUND 47: * 1 dc in each of the first 10 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 33 dc.
ROUND 48: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 33 dc.
ROUND 49: * 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 dc.
ROUND 50: * 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 dc.
ROUND 51: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 52: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 18 dc.
ROUND 53: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 18 dc.
ROUND 54: * 1 dc in first dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
ROUND 55: Crochet 2 dc tog all the way round = 6 dc.
Fill the body with cotton wool, cut the thread, pull thread through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 8 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-*= 12 dc.
ROUND 3: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 4: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 5: Crochet 1 dc in each dc, at the same time crochet 2 dc tog at the beg and at the end of round = 10 dc.
ROUND 6: Crochet 1 dc in each dc, at the same time crochet tog 5th and 6th dc and crochet tog 7th and 8th dc on round = 8 dc.
Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill the legs with cotton wool and sew the legs to bottom of body.

ARMS:
Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3-6: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 8 dc. Change to light grey/green.
ROUND 7: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 8 dc
Fill the arm with cotton wool, place piece flat and crochet 1 dc in each dc through both layers = 4 dc. Cut the thread. Crochet 1 more arm in the same way and sew arms to the side of body at the top.

EARS:
Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm with light brown mix and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 9 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
ROUND 4-6: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 dc in each dc through both layers = 6 dc, turn piece and crochet 2 dc tog across the row = 3 dc. Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head to the side. Crochet 1 more ear and attach to the opposite side of head.

SMALL HEART:
Crochet 2 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 dc in first ch, turn piece. Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st = 5 dc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, 1 dc in middle of heart, 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of teddy.

LARGE HEART:
Crochet 2 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm with guacamole (try to find a yellow section of the yarn) and crochet 3 dc in first ch, turn piece. Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st = 5 dc (includes ch at beg and end of row), turn piece. Crochet 1 ch, then 1 dc in each st = 6 dc (includes ch at beg of row), turn piece. Crochet 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch, 1 dc in the middle of heart, 4 ch,1 tr in first ch, 1 sl st in ch from beg of previous row. Cut the thread and sew the heart to the front of teddy. Crochet 1 more heart and sew to the back of teddy.

Embroider eyes and mouth at the front of teddy with black.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Sif Klein wrote:

Hej Angående rygstykket på jakken: hvad betyder ' Luk af i beg af hver p i hver side således'?

23.11.2023 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sif, jo på samme måde som du slog nye masker op til ærmer i hver side, lukker du masker af yderst på ærmerne i starten af hver pind ifølge opskriften :)

24.11.2023 - 14:59

country flag Debi wrote:

Bei den Aufnahmen für den Ärmel steht Folgendes (ich stricke die Grösse für 6 Monate): 3 M. 3-3-4 (4-4) Mal, 5 M. 2 Mal, 7 M. 0-0-0 (1-2) Mal und 16-18-19 (21-22) M. 1 Mal. Bedeutet 7 M. 0 Mal aufnehmen, dass ich diese Reihen ohne Aufnahmen stricken soll, oder nach der letzten Aufnahme von 5 M. 2 Mal direkt mit der Aufnahme von 18 M. 1 Mal weiterfahren soll? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe und liebe Grüsse aus der Schweiz.

12.11.2023 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Debbi, in diese Größe nehmen Sie direkt 2 Mal die 18 Maschen 1 Mal nach den 5 Maschen 2 Mal dh keine Reihe ohne Zunahmen, es sind einfach 3 M. 3 Mal, 5 M. 2 Mal, und 18 M. 1 Mal. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.11.2023 - 08:16

country flag Sif Klein wrote:

Hej igen Angående overgangen fra forstykkerne til rygstykket, hæfter man så den ene tråd ellers går den vel op? Eller hvad gør man?

25.10.2023 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Ja du hæfter alle ender når du er færdig med trøjen - se videos som passer til opskriften nederst på siden :)

26.10.2023 - 14:04

country flag Sif Klein wrote:

Hvad gør man med tråden fra det ene forstykke? Der vil vel være en tråd fra hvert forstykke og som jeg kan forstå det strikker man forstykkerne sammen på én tråd fra det ene forstykke men hvad med den anden tråd fra det andet forstykke?

24.10.2023 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej igen, den klipper du bare af :)

25.10.2023 - 14:43

country flag Sif Klein wrote:

Hvordan strikker man de 2 forstykker sammen til rygstykket? Jeg forstår at tage ind og ud men jeg forstår ikke hvordan de skal strikkes sammen.

24.10.2023 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, jo du strikker en pind over det ene forstykke (fra skulderen og ind mod halsen), slår det antal masker op som modsvarer din størrelse (12 i den mindste størrelse) og fortsætter med at strikke over det andet forstykke (fra halsen og ud mod skulderen). Nu har du samlet arbejdet og kan strikke rygstykket fra skulderen og ned (du måler nu fra mærket du satte tidligere) :)

24.10.2023 - 15:33

country flag Sif Klein wrote:

Hej Hvordan strikker man forstykkerne samme? Ved tråden samme side, betyder det begge til højre eller begge ind mod halsen? Mvh Sif

23.10.2023 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sif, du følger samme opskrift, men når du tager ud gør du det i den anden side, og altså mod midt foran på det andet forstykke :)

24.10.2023 - 09:20

country flag Irmgard Nüßlein wrote:

Wie stricke ich kraus rechts auf Nadelspiel?

03.08.2023 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nüsslein, für 1 Krausrippe wird man abwechslungsweise 1 Runde rechts und 1 Runde links stricken - siehe dieses Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.08.2023 - 08:02

country flag Wendy Timana Robles wrote:

Hola, quisiera saber por dónde estoy empezando a tejer la chaqueta? Por abajo o arriba del delantero? Y cuando dice disminución 0 en talla pequeña quiere decir tejer sólo la misma cantidad de puntos en la vuelta?

03.03.2023 - 15:25

country flag Sophia wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Hose: Nachdem beide Beine gestrickt sind und sie auf einer Rundstrichnadel sind, wo findet die Abnahme statt? Vorne im Schritt? Die Krausrippen werden hin- und zurück gestrickt. Heißt das, dass hinten am Po die Arbeit offen bleibt und am Ende zusammengenäht wird? Danke für die Hilfe.

13.02.2023 - 11:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sophia, die Hose wird jetzt in Runden gestrickt und die Runden werden hinten (am Po) beginnen, so sollen Sie eine Markierung für die Mitte vorne einsetzen - und beidseitig von dieser Markierung abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.02.2023 - 15:45

country flag Sue wrote:

Love this pattern

06.01.2023 - 17:19