DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 208.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Mandy

Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern and pockets in ”Nepal”. Sizes S to XXXL

DROPS 124-4
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-003
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour no 0100, eco off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 4.5 mm - for rib and garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, no 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 208.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
MEASUREMENT TIP:
Due to the weight of the yarn all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from the edge and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 12, 20, 28, 36 and 44 cm
SIZE M: 13, 21, 29, 37 and 45 cm
SIZE L: 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm
SIZE XL: 12, 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm
SIZE XXL: 13, 20, 27, 34, 41 and 48 cm
SIZE XXXL: 14, 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm
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JACKET:
Worked in parts back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
See MEASUREMENT TIP! Cast on 107-119-125-137-149-155 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from RS: 1 edge st, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with K3 and 1 edge st. When rib measures 4 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 17-21-21-25-27-25 sts evenly = 90-98-104-112-122-130 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 9 cm dec 1 st each side, repeat the dec each side on every 4-4-4-4.5-4.5-4.5 cm a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 76-84-90-100-110-118 sts. When piece measures 34-34-34-33-33-33 cm change back to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now continue in GARTER ST - see above - on all sts. When garter st section measures approx 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm (piece measures a total of approx 40 cm for all sizes – REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP) change back to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 11-12-12-14-16-17 sts evenly = 87-96-102-114-126-135 sts. Now continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side (first row = from WS) – NOTE: Beg and finish pattern with P1 (as seen from WS) inside edge st each side. Continue in M.1 until piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm. Now cast off for armhole at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-3-3 times, 2 sts 1-3-4-4-5-6 times and 1 st 3-3-3-4-4-5 times = 71-72-74-78-80-83 sts. Continue in pattern as before until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm – REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP. Now cast off the middle 17-18-18-20-22-23 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 26-26-27-28-28-29 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 55-61-67-73-79-85 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 6 front band sts towards front edge) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal.
P 1 row from WS with 6 front band sts towards front edge in garter st (front band worked in garter st until finished measurements). Now continue in rib as follows from RS: 6 front band sts, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When rib measures 4 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-6-9-11-12-14 sts evenly (do not dec on front band) = 51-55-58-62-67-71 sts. P 1 row from WS (front band in garter st) and continue in stocking st with 6 front band sts towards front edge. When piece measures 9 cm dec at the side as described for back piece = 44-48-51-56-61-65 sts. When piece measures 34-34-34-33-33-33 cm change back to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Now work garter st on all sts. When garter st section measures approx 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm (adjust to back piece) change back to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-5-5-6-7-9 sts evenly = 50-53-56-62-68-74 sts. Now work M.1 with 1 edge st at the side and 6 front band sts towards front edge (first row = from WS) – NOTE: Beg and finish pattern with P1 (as seen from WS) inside edge st and front band. Continue in M.1 until piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm. Now beg incorporating more sts in in the garter st on front band for collar as follows: work 1 st from front piece into the garter st on front band on every 4th row a total of 10-9-9-10-11-13 times. AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st inside the outermost st on front band (inc by making 1 YO, on next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole). Repeat the inc on every 8-8-6-6-6-6 row a total of 6-7-9-8-9-7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm cast off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side as described for back piece.
After all dec for armhole and inc for collar are complete there are 48-48-51-52-54-55 sts on needle. Continue in garter st and pattern until piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm – REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP. On next row from the side (= from WS) cast off 26-26-27-28-28-29 sts for shoulder = 22-22-24-24-26-26 front band sts left on needle. Work remaining sts on row. Continue for collar as follows (row 1 = RS): * work back and forth on all sts, work back and forth on the first 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts only *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx 7-7-7-8-8-9 cm from shoulder (measured where shortest). Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 50-50-50-56-56-56 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from RS: 1 edge st, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When rib measures 6 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-6-12-10-10 sts evenly = 42-42-44-44-46-46 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in stocking st. When piece measures 9-7-9-8-6-8 cm inc 1 st each side (inc by making 1 YO inside edge st, on next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole). Repeat the inc on every 3.5-3-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm a total of 11-14-15-18-19-22 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm inc 6 sts evenly on row (this inc is in addition to the inc each side). On next row from RS continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. Incorporate inc sts at the sides in pattern as you go along. After all inc are complete there are 70-76-80-86-90-96 sts on needle. When piece measures 48-48-47-46-44-44 cm - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder - cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 4 sts 1 time, then 2 sts at the beg of every row until piece measures approx 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm. Cast off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, and then cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-58-58-58-58 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew collar tog mid back – sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. Sew collar to neckline on back piece with neat sts. Sew on buttons.

POCKETS:
Cast on 31 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal and work back and forth on needle as follows: K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 14 sts evenly (do not inc on the outermost 2 sts each side) = 45 sts. P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.2 until pocket measures approx 18-18-20-20-22-22 cm – finish after 1 or 3 rows after a cable. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 14 sts evenly (not on the 2 sts each side) = 31 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now cast off with K sts from WS.
Make 2.
Place the pockets on front piece approx 7-9 cm from mid front with the bottom of pocket just covering the rib. Sew the pockets on with neat sts.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Jane Widström wrote:

Finns det något knep vid uppläggningen (resårkanten och rätmaskorna) för att nerkanten ska bli jämn och lika lång ? Som det är nu blir ” knappkanten” kortare. Sen vill jag tillägga att det vore bättre om det stod i mönstret att man ska sticka vänster framstycke först. Då blir det mycket lättare att räkna ut var knapphålen ska göras, då man vill ha ett precis i mitten på den rätstickade delen. Jag fick repa upp 😥

14.09.2023 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. LItt problemer med å skjønne hva du mener. Husk at venstre forstykke strikkes som høyre forstykke men motsatt. Så når du har lagt opp til venstre forskykket strikkes det 1 pinne vrang fra vrangen, men for å få det motsatt enn høyre forstykke, startes det med å strikke 6 stolpemasker i riller (rett på hver pinne). mvh DROPS Design

18.09.2023 - 13:30

country flag Diane Castonguay wrote:

J'ai besoin de 33 rangs pour élargir la bande de et de51 rang pour les augmentation. Comment passer de47 à 52cm ? Je fait le L. Je tasse 1m tout les 4rang set j'augmente tout les 6 rangs J'ai 9 aug. X 6rang=54-5=49 49÷22= au moins 20 cm et il me dit de diminuer pour la manche à 50cm. Je ne peut aug. Et dimanche. Sur le même côté ?? Je viens de terminer mes 9m. Tassé pour le bord et j'ai déjà 60 pouce????

26.08.2023 - 14:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Castonguay, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Si votre échantillon est juste en largeur, vous devriez obtenir les mesures du schéma avec les indications, sinon merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin pour toute assistance personnalisée pour adapter ce modèle à votre échantillon. Merci pour votre compréhension.

28.08.2023 - 13:48

country flag Karin Verwoerd wrote:

Als ik met m1 aan het breien bent ziet er bij mij anders uit dan op de foto weet eerlijk gezegd niet wat ik verkeerd doet bij de foto ligt direct ver zo mooi bovenop

30.12.2022 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Karin,

In het telpatroon zijn de steken zowel aan de goede als de verkeerde kant weergegeven. Dus alle naalden staan in de telpatronen. Heb je hier rekening mee gehouden?

01.01.2023 - 10:56

country flag Erna wrote:

Bonjour, Où sont les explications pour le placement des boutonnière ? J'ai beau lire et relire les explications et les boutonnières ne sont mentionnées nulle part. Pouvez- vous compléter cela svp. D'avance merci

08.10.2022 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Erna, vous les trouverez au tout début des explications sous BOUTONNIÈRES . Bon tricot!

10.10.2022 - 08:45

country flag Robyn Gibbs wrote:

HI, Can you use alpaca wool for this pattern? Thanks.

08.10.2022 - 05:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Robyn, you could work this pattern with 2 threads of DROPS Alpaca (group A yarn) to substitute a group C yarn, like Nepal. Happy knitting!

09.10.2022 - 19:30

country flag Anne Knickmann wrote:

Hallo , ich habe eine Frage zu Drops 124-4 Ich habe die 20 Maschen für den Kragen aufgenommen und komme oben bei der Schulter nicht weiter. Haben sie den Kragen über 26 Maschen gestrickt? Oder aus den bestehenden Maschen vom Vorderteil genommen Habe jetzt mehr Maschen auf der Nadel wie Inder der Anleitung steht. Mfg anne

08.11.2020 - 10:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Knickmann, welche Größe stricken Sie? So können wir Ihnen erklären, wie es bei dieser Größe läuft. Danke im voraus!

09.11.2020 - 10:55

country flag Asma wrote:

Hej, Mønsteret skal starte og slutte med 1 vrang (set fra vrangen) indenfor kantm i hver side, gælder det også for ærme? Tak!

29.03.2019 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Asma. På grunn av økningene vil du ikke alltid avslutte M.1 på ermene med den samme masken. Du skal ikke nødvendigvis avslutte M.1 med en rett fra retten/vrang fra vrangen. De økte maskene strikkes fortløpende inn i mønsteret. M.1 strikkes altså over alle maskene (med unntak av de 2 kantmaskene). God fornøyelse

03.04.2019 - 09:51

country flag Sawnuy wrote:

Hallo, ich habe jetzt 24 M (Grösse L) auf der Nadel für die Kragen. Ich verstehe nicht, was das bedeutet... Weiter der Kragen wie folgt (1. R. = Vorderseite): * über alle M. hin und zurück stricken, nur über die ersten 10-10-12-12-14-14 M. hin und zurück stricken *, von *-* wiederholen bis der Kragen ca. 7-7-7-8-8-9 cm misst. Danach abk. Danke schön Mit freundlichen Grüßen  

16.10.2018 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sawnuy, jetzt stricken Sie verkürzten Reihen über diese 24 M: *2 Reihen über alle Maschen, 2 Reihen über die ersten 12 Maschen*, diese 4 Reihen (= von *bis*) wiederholen Sie bis der Kragen ca 7 cm (am kürzeststen misst). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.10.2018 - 15:57

country flag Asma wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai un problème avec le point fantaisie après les diminutions du dos , vous dites commencer et terminer le point fantaisie avec 1 m env (vu sur l'envers) à une m lisière de chaque côté, faut il aussi 1 m env après chaque diminution? merci.

26.02.2018 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Asma, je ne vous suis pas très bien, quand on tricote M.1 (= 1 m lis, M.1 en commençant par 1 m env = la 3ème ou la dernière m du diagramme, puis on le répète en largeur, 1 m lis), on ne diminue pas, on continue ainsi jusqu'à la fin et on rabat les mailles pour l'emmanchure sur le côté comme indiqué (plus de m lis le temps des emmanchures). Bon tricot!

26.02.2018 - 12:49

country flag Teresa Mas wrote:

Cómo se lee M1 ? De derecha a izquierda siempre? Primera fila, lado revés: 2revés, 1 derecho, 2 revés, 1 derecho? Fila segunda, lado derecho: 1 derecho, 2 revés, 1 derecho, 2 revés? Gracias.

12.12.2017 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Teresa, en el diagrama se muestran todos los puntos vistos por el lado derecho. Las filas por el lado derecho se leen de derecha a izquierda y las filas por el lado revés de derecha a izquierda. En este patrón, como la primera vuelta es por el lado revés, se trabaja 1 derecho, 2 reveses y 1 derecho 2 reveses.

17.12.2017 - 18:25