DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 68.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Midnight Queen

DROPS jacket knitted from side to side in 2 strands ”Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 121-1
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-526
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
1000-1050-1200-1300-1450-1550 g colour no 6360m, blue mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4.5 mm – for English rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 68.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements in the knitting direction while the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.

ENGLISH RIB ON BODY PIECE (back and forth on needle):
Row 1: 1 garter st, * K2 tog, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K2 tog and 1 garter st.
Row 2: 1 garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, 1 garter st.
Row 3: 1 garter st, * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, K tog YO and slipped st, 1 garter st.
Repeat row 2 and 3.

ENGLISH RIB ON BORDERS AND SLEEVES (back and forth on needle):
Row 1: 1 garter st, * K1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K1, 1 garter st.
Work row 2 and 3 as described for body piece - see above! Repeat row 2 and 3.

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Body piece is worked in 2 parts and sewn tog mid back afterwards.

RIGHT PART:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 142-148-154-154-160-166 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca. Work ENGLISH RIB - see above! (row 1 = WS). After first row in English rib there are 141-147-153-153-159-165 sts on needle. Continue with Row 2 and row 3 in English rib. When piece measures 5 cm change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Continue in English rib until piece measures 8 cm (finish after row 3 = WS). Work 2 rows GARTER ST on all sts – see above. Change back to circular needle size 5.5 mm. On next row from RS continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 33-36-39-36-39-41 sts evenly = 108-111-114-117-120-124 sts (includes 1 edge st each side). Continue in stocking st with 1 garter st each side until piece measures 41-41-46-46-49-49 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and See MEASUREMENT TIP! Now work 4 rows back and forth on only the first 20 sts for all sizes (as seen from RS), and slip these 20 sts on a stitch holder = 88-91-94-97-100-104 sts left on needle. Now cast off for armhole at beg of next row from RS as follows: 20-22-22-23-24-26 sts 1 time, work the remaining sts, turn and work return row. Turn and now cast off the next 10-10-12-12-12-12 sts = 58-59-60-62-64-66 sts. Work 0-0-2-2-4-4 rows on all sts. Insert a marker in first st on needle (as seen from RS), in the middle of these last 0-0-2-2-4-4 rows without dec (= mid under sleeve). Now cast on new sts at the end of every row from WS as follows: 10-10-12-12-12-12 sts 1 time and 20-22-22-23-24-26 sts 1 time = 88-91-94-97-100-104 sts. Slip the 20 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 108-111-114-117-120-124 sts. Continue in stocking st with 1 garter st each side until piece measures 18-18-19-19-20-20 cm from where the last sts were cast on after armhole. Piece now measures approx 61-61-67-67-71-71 cm from cast on row, measured at the top towards neckline. Continue with shortened rows to create extra width at bottom edge mid back as follows (beg from RS = from neckline): Work the first 52 sts on needle and then slip these sts on a stitch holder, work remaining sts on needle, turn piece and work all sts, * work the first 6-6-6-7-7-7 sts on needle, slip sts on the same stitch holder and work remaining sts on needle, turn piece and work all sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times for all sizes. Turn piece and work the remaining 14-17-20-16-19-23 sts. Now slip all sts from stitch holder back on needle and K 2 rows on all sts (beg from RS), then cast off loosely = mid back. Piece now measures approx 61-61-67-67-71-71 cm on the right side of piece (as seen from RS) and approx 73-73-80-80-85-85 cm on the left side of piece – measured in the knitting direction.

LEFT PART:
Like right part, but mirrored, i.e. make all dec for armhole with start from WS and inc with start from RS. Beg shortened rows mid back from WS (= from neckline).

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 34-34-34-40-40-40 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca. Continue in English rib (row 1 = WS).
After first row in English rib there are 33-33-33-39-39-39 sts on needle. Continue with row 2 and row 3 in English rib until piece measures 6 cm (finish after row 3 = WS).
K 2 rows on all sts, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and continue stocking st with 1 garter st each side, AT THE SAME TIME inc 5-7-9-5-7-7 sts on first row = 38-40-42-44-46-46 sts.
Continue in stocking st with 1 garter st each side.
When piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 3-2.5-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm a total of 12-13-14-15-17-19 times = 62-66-70-74-80-84 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-47-45-44 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts 1 time, 2 sts 6-7-3-4-4-4 times 1 st 0-0-1-1-3-5 times, then cast off 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm. Now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the 2 parts tog mid back, garter st towards garter st. Sew sleeve seams. Set in sleeves.

BORDER:
Bottom edge: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Pick up 233-233-257-257-272-272 sts inside the garter st on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca (pick up approx 16 sts per 10 cm). K 1 row from WS and continue from RS as follows: 1 garter st, * K2, work 2 sts in next st *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, finish with K3 and 1 garter st = 309-309-341-341-361-361 sts. Continue in ENGLISH RIB – see above! When piece measures 3 cm change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Continue in English rib until border measures 8 cm. Cast off, but to make the edge elastic make a YO after every other st and cast off YO as a st.

Upper edge: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Pick up 197-197-215-215-227-227 sts inside the garter st on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca (pick up approx 16 sts per 10 cm). K 1 row from WS and continue from RS as follows: 1 garter st, * K2, work 2 sts in next st *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, finish with K3 and 1 garter st = 261-261-285-285-301-301 sts. Now continue as described for bottom edge.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.11.2010
SLEEVE:
... K 2 rows on all sts, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and continue...
Updated online: 08.02.2011
ENGLISH RIB ON BORDERS AND SLEEVES (back and forth on needle):
Row 1: 1 garter st, * K1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K1, 1 garter st.
Work row 2 and 3 as described for body piece - see above! Repeat row 2 and 3.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (75)

country flag Susie wrote:

Hi, on Right Part, am I casting on new stitches at same end after binding off armhole, thus creating an armhole? Am confused by phrase ‘ from end of WS’, when I think it would be RS if I do what I have described? Many thanks.

19.12.2021 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susie, you will first cast off stitches at the beginning of the rows from RS then cast on the new stitches for armhole at the end of the rows from WS (the new stitches cast on will be over the stitches cast off creating a hole = armhole). Happy knitting!

20.12.2021 - 08:01

country flag Christine wrote:

Unable to pick up the correct amount of stitches on the borders can you tell me where the bottom starts and finishes and the upper border starts and finishes.as working on 16 stitches to 10cm is not giving me the correct counts. the smallest size cardigan is the one been knitted.

09.01.2020 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, picking up 16 sts for 10 cm should give you a total of 233 stitches along the 146 cm of the bottom edge (73 cm x 2). Shouldn't you get the exact number of stitches you can always ajust to the right number on next row. Happy knitting!

09.01.2020 - 15:10

country flag Julia wrote:

Kann es sein das in der Skizze, dasDreieck für die Ärmel falschrum eingefügt ist? Wenn ich nämlich die äußeren 20 Maschen stricke, ich habe es so verstanden das dies die ersten 20 sind, dann bildet sich die längere Kante oben und nicht wie in der Skizze gezeigt unten. Oder habe ich die Anleitung falsch interpretiert? Auf den Fotos sieht es auch so aus als wäre die breitere Kante oben.

19.08.2016 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Julia, haben Sie beachtet, dass Sie bei der linken Hälfte das Armloch von der Rückseite beginnen müssen?

27.08.2016 - 15:27

country flag Liesken wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke diese Jacke momentan. Ich habe das Patent bei den Ärmeln gestrickt wie am Vorder und Rückenteil. Nun sehe ich dass bei dem Patent für die Bündchen steht "und Ärmel". Welches ist nun für die Ärmel? Ist es egal wenn ich das "obere" Patentmuster für die Ärmel genommen habe?? LG Liesken

08.10.2015 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Das bezieht sich auf die Ärmelbündchen. Sie haben es richtig gemacht, dass Sie die Ärmel im gleichen Patentmuster wie das Rumpfteil gestrickt haben.

13.10.2015 - 13:02

country flag Gemma Watson wrote:

I was wondering if you have a size chart as i'm not sure which size to go for

23.05.2015 - 23:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Watson, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart in cm with all measurements taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

26.05.2015 - 11:07

country flag Liesken wrote:

Hallo, ich wollte die wunderschöne Jacke gern stricken, aber ich bin mir unsicher in den Größen. Haben Sie irgendwo eine Maßtabelle? Oder könnten Sie mir sagen was von S oder M wie 32, 34, 36 oder ausfällt? Ansonsten habe ich nur die Maßangaben in der Anleitung selbst gefunden, aber ich tu mich schwer, mich da zu entscheiden, weil ja ein paar cm doch schon viel ausmachen.

22.12.2014 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Sie finden alle Maße unten in der Maßskizze ganz am Ende der Anleitung, daran sollten Sie sich orientieren. Gutes Gelingen!

29.12.2014 - 10:22

country flag Ann Nybråten wrote:

Gjelder det samme som Alice spør om. Forstår ikke svaret.For når du har strikket de 20m 4omg og satt på en "tråd". Så feller du over 2ganger og øker over 2ganger, men da blir jo "spissen" under armen.

26.08.2014 - 11:09

country flag Marion Hoffmann wrote:

Hallöchen, möchte diese tolle Jacke gerne stricken, habe mich aber für ein von ihnen vorgeschlagenes Alternativgarn entschieden und zwar Drops Delight in regenbogenfarben... meine Frage: muss ich diese Wolle auch mit 2 Fäden stricken so wie in der Anleitung? Lieben Dank im Voraus, Marion

20.08.2014 - 14:02

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, denn Sie müssen ja auch auf die passende Maschenprobe kommen (die auch mit 2 Fäden gestrickt werden muss). Dadurch wird der Farbeindruck etwas "wirrer".

21.08.2014 - 00:01

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Er det mulig å heller strikke vanlig vranbord med en rett og en vrang i bolen, eller vil dette føre til at det ikke går opp med antall masker?

16.06.2014 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elisabeth. Det kan du jo godt med et lige antal masker (= delbart med 2). Men vaer opmaerksom paa at en vrangbord med 1 r/1 vr traekker sig mere sammen end patent saa du maaske skal starte med flere masker end hvad der staar. Men strik en pröve og tjek strikkefastheden.

17.06.2014 - 17:05

country flag Petra wrote:

Ik heb nu 3 keer een poging gedaan... hoe kan ik nou uitkomen als ik een even aantal steken heb, maar een oneven aantal steken dat herhaald moet worden??? Dus bij 154 steken - 2 kantsteken (ribbelsteken) kan ik nooit uitkomen met een patroon dat uit 3 steken bestaat... kortom... hoe zit het dan nog met de rest van het patroon?

20.03.2014 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Petra. Je breit 1 ribbelst en herhaalt *2 st recht samen, 1 omsl, haal 1 st av af* over de volgende 150 st = 50 herhalingen (150/3) en eindigt met 2 r samen en 1 ribbelst over de laatste 3 st. Je hebt nu over de 154 st gebreid en kan verder.

02.04.2014 - 11:36