DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Fishtail Vest

Knitted DROPS jumper with short or long sleeves with cables and moss st in ”Nepal”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 125-23
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-036_037
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS NEPAL
Short sleeves:
550-600-650-750-800-850 g colour no 517m, eco medium grey mix
Long sleeves:
800-850-900-1000-1050-1150 g colour no 517m, eco medium grey mix

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 4.5 mm – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. See diagram for your size. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
Size S + M: M.1A, M.1B and M.1C.
Size L + XL + XXL + XXXL: M.2A, M.2B and M.2C.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Inc alternately before and after P-section. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
MOSS ST (double):
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: P over K and K over P.
Repeat row 2 and 3.
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BACK PIECE:
Cast on 94-102-110-118-126-142 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, P1, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2, P1 and 1 edge st. When rib measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm work next row as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, 24-28-28-32-36-44 sts in rib as before, M.A (work diagram for your size - see above), 24-28-28-32-36-44 sts in rib as before and 1 edge st.
After 1 vertical repeat of M.A there are 96-104-110-118-126-142 sts on needle. Change to needle size 5 mm and work next row as follows: 1 edge st, 24-28-28-32-36-44 MOSS STS - see above - AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-4-3-2-5 sts evenly, M.B (work diagram for your size), 24-28-28-32-36-44 moss sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-4-3-2-5 sts evenly and work 1 edge st.
There are now 88-96-102-112-122-132 sts on needle.
Continue in moss st and M.B.
When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm cast off 3 sts each side for armhole and cast off to shape the armhole at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 1-2-3-5-6-8 times and 1 st 0-1-1-1-2-2 times = 78-80-82-84-88-90 sts.
Continue as before until piece measures approx 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm (adjust to a full repeat). Now worked M.C over M.B. After 1 vertical repeat of M.C there are 66-68-68-70-74-76 sts on needle. On next row from RS cast off the middle 18-18-22-22-22-22 sts for neck= 24-25-23-24-26-27 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in moss st and P5 + K3 towards neck. AT THE SAME TIME on first row cast on 1 new st towards neck (= edge st) = 25-26-24-25-27-28 sts on shoulder. Continue until piece measures approx 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work like back piece until piece measures approx 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm (adjust to a full repeat). Now worked M.C over M.B. After 1 vertical repeat of M.C there are 76-84-88-98-108-118 sts on needle. On next row cast off the middle 18-18-22-22-22-22 sts for neck and complete each side separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 29-33-33-38-43-48 sts. Continue in moss st and P5 + K3 towards neck. AT THE SAME TIME on first row cast on 1 new st towards neck (= edge st). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 25-26-24-25-27-28 sts.
Continue in moss st and P5 + K3 + 1 edge st towards neck until piece measures approx 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm (adjust to back piece). Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams inside 1 edge st.

SHORT SLEEVE:
Pick up 80 to 120 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal round armhole. P 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 88-92-100-108-112-116. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures approx 6-6-8-8-10-10 cm cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.

LONG SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 46-46-50-50-50-54 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib K2/P2 with 1 edge st each side. When rib measures approx 6 cm K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-3-5-4-4-6 sts evenly = 41-43-45-46-46-48 sts. P 1 row from WS. Change to needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 7-8-8-8-8-8 cm inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 11-12-13-15-16-18 times = 63-67-71-76-78-84 sts. Continue until piece measures 50-50-49-49-47-46 cm (NOTE! less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder). Now cast off 4 sts each side and cast off to shape the sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4-4 times and 1 st 0-0-0-1-3-5 times, then 2 sts at the beg of every row until piece measures approx 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm. Now cast off 4 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-58-59-59-60 cm.
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and set in sleeves.

NECK:
Beg at bottom of neck on right front piece. Pick up 130 to 180 sts inside edge st on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal up along neckline on right front piece, along back piece, and down along neckline on left front piece. NOTE! Do not pick up on the 18-18-22-22-22-22 sts cast off on front piece. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 138-142-154-162-170-178. K 1 row from RS and work next row from WS as follows: 2 GARTER STS - see above - P2, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 garter sts.
Continue in rib like this for approx 4 cm. On next row from RS inc 1 st in each of the 23-24-27-29-31-33- P-sections along back piece (i.e. do not inc in the first and last 5 P-sections) - See INCREASING TIP = 161-166-181-191-201-211 sts. Continue with K over K and P over P. When piece measures approx 7 cm inc 1 st in each of the 19-20-23-25-27-29 P-sections along back piece (i.e. do not inc in the first and last 7 P-sections) = 180-186-204-216-228-240 sts. Continue with K over K and P over P. When piece measures approx 9 cm inc 1 st in each of the 15-16-19-21-23-25 P-sections along back piece (i.e. do not inc in the first and last 9 P-sections) = 195-202-223-237-251-265 sts. Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures approx 11-11-13-13-13-13 cm. Now cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the right rib over the left at bottom of front piece and fasten through both layers.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row
K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = K2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (53)

Trish wrote:

Re Neck: after increasing in the P-sections, then "Continue with K over K and P over P" - how does this fit with the K2, P2 rib pattern? Does this change? To what? Apart from this ambiguity I love this pattern! Thank you

29.06.2016 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Trish, you will work in rib K2/P2 as before in the first 5 and last 5 sections with P sts where you didn't inc, but you will now have P3 over the P2 you inc 1 st. When you inc 1 more P in P-sections, you will have then P2 on each side, then some P3 and P4 in the middle P sections, and so on. Happy knitting!

29.06.2016 - 11:11

country flag Manuela wrote:

Ich habe mich da offensichtlich etwas unglücklich ausgedrückt - ich wollte gerne wissen, ob das Zopfmuster wirklich auch auf dem Rückenteil gestrickt wird. Für mich erscheint es ungewöhnlich, solch ein Muster auch auf dem Rücken zu stricken.

15.01.2016 - 19:04

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, das Zopfmuster erscheint auch auf dem Rückenteil, Sie können ja auch den Rücken beliebig mustern, es spricht ja nichts dagegen. :-)

23.01.2016 - 18:03

country flag Manuela wrote:

Hallo, ist das richtig so, dass das Zopfmuster sowohl auf der Rück- als auch der Vorderseite gestrickt wird? Ich stelle mir vor, dass es auf dem Rückenteil etwas komisch aussieht.

05.01.2016 - 06:37

DROPS Design answered:

Das Zopfmuster ist am Rückenteil und am Vorderteil. Die Verzopfungen erfolgen immer nur in Hin-R.

10.01.2016 - 23:18

country flag Lisen Löfqvist wrote:

Jag undrar varför jag inte får med diagram till denna modell ock likaså till modell nr.121-27.Hälsn.Lisen

16.12.2015 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisen, Jo om du skriver ut från gröna knappen som ligger på mönstret (till höger under bilden): "SKRIV UT: MÖNSTER" så får du allt med ut. Lycka till!

17.12.2015 - 09:01

country flag Yvonne Van Os wrote:

Waar kan ik het telpatroon vinden? Ontbreekt op bij dit patroon?

03.10.2015 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Yvonne. Kijk onderaan het patroon. Hier staan de telpatronen.

05.10.2015 - 13:44

country flag Ann-Kathrin wrote:

Also, ich bin leider ein ziemliche Anfängerin beim Stricken und deshalb blicke ich hier leider nicht durch: Wofür gibt es ein rechtes und linkes Vorderteil, wenn es doch schon ein anderes Vorderteil gibt? Und wie nähe ich diese dann zusammen?

23.09.2015 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Sie sehen ja auf dem Foto, dass sich der Pulli oben am Ausschnitt teilt, das ist mit dem rechten und linken Vorderteil gemeint. Zuerst wird also das ganze Vorderteil in voller Breite von unten nach oben an einem Stück gestrickt, dann wird es am Halsausschnitt geteilt und die rechte und linke Seite werden jeweils einzeln weitergestrickt. Sie müssen da also nichts zusammennähen, am Ende werden nur Rücken- und Vorderteil miteinander verbunden (Schulternähte und Seitennähte).

28.09.2015 - 10:33

country flag Em Redondo wrote:

Buenos dias, por favor, cuando se hacen los aumentos del cuello, en la vuelta siguiente al tejer derecho sobre dcho y reves sobre reves, el punto aumentado ¿como se teje?, si toca derecho se hacen tres puntos al derecho o se hacen dos y dos y se modifica la serie? Muchas Gracias

10.03.2015 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Em, los aumentos se hacen siempre en las secciones de revés en el cuello, es decir q la lazada en la fila sig se trabaja de derecho retorcido de modo que por el LD queda un pt de revés. Visto por el LD las secciones de derecho quedan constantes y las secciones de revés aumentan.

15.03.2015 - 17:03

country flag Martha wrote:

Come faccio l'aumento, solo al rovescio? invece de 2, saranno 3?

27.03.2014 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Martha, a quale punto delle spiegazioni fa riferimento? Se ci spiega in modo più dettagliato il suo problema la potremo aiutare, ma con delle indicazioni così generiche non possiamo esserle d'aiuto. Buon lavoro!!

28.03.2014 - 15:21

country flag Martha wrote:

Non ho capito come se fa il collo? avete una foto.

26.03.2014 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Martha, le foto disponibili sono quelle del modello, ma se ci dice qual è esattamente il suo problema cercheremo di aiutarla. Buon lavoro!!

26.03.2014 - 14:15

country flag Martha Elizabeth wrote:

Hola, tu diseno es lindo, pero no entiendo como debo hacer en la figura M1c en la carrera 9 que dice 2m juntas al der si es asi estoy disminuyendo, en que momento aumento? y como?

27.01.2014 - 20:05