DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 125-4
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-515
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Size: XS/S - M/L - L/XL - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 0501m, eco light grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 + 80 cm) size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 4.5 mm – for edge and yoke.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements while the garment is hanging otherwise it will be too long when worn. INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round from bottom edge - See MEASUREMENT TIP!
Cast on 180-204-216-240-248-272 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca. Work 4 rounds GARTER ST – see above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st. Insert a marker each side = 90-102-108-120-124-136 sts between markers. When piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-6 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 dec). Repeat the dec on every 4-4-4-4-4.5-4.5 cm a total of 12-12-12-12-11-11 times = 132-156-168-192-204-228 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – work yoke as follows:

YOKE:
READ ALL OF THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert 4 markers in piece with 33-39-42-48-51-57 sts between each. NOTE: marker 1 at beg of round, i.e. at the side (= marker A), marker 2 mid front (= marker C), marker 3 at the side (= marker B) and marker 4 mid back (= marker D).
Now slip sts between marker C and D (with marker B in the middle) on a stitch holder = 66-78-84-96-102-114 sts left on needle.
Beg by marker A and work shortened rows back and forth over half the body piece, AT THE SAME TIME work rib, as follows:

Row 1 (= RS): Beg by marker A: K1, * P1, K2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, P1, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): K2 in first st – See INCREASING TIP, * P2, K2 in next st *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, P2 (marker A sits mid between these 2 sts), * K1, P2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, K1, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): P2 in first st, * K2, P2 in next st *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, K2 (marker A sits mid between these 2 sts), * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): slip first st, tighten thread, P1, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, turn piece.
Row 5 (= RS): slip first st, tighten thread, K1, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, P1, turn piece.
Row 6 (= WS): K2 in first st, * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, P2, K1, turn piece.

Continue with turns like this until you have worked rib back and forth on all sts (= to marker C and D = mid front/mid back) – i.e. for every turn there is either P1 or K2 more (as seen from RS). And on first row after a turn inc P1 (as seen from RS) to P2 in order to make ALL P1 to P2 as you go along.
AT THE SAME TIME after 3 cm rib on the middle 14 sts at the side (i.e. 7 sts each side of marker A) inc the 4 P-sections from P2 to P3 (as seen from RS). Repeat the inc in these P-sections on every 3 cm a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 times (after the last inc there are 6-6-6-7-7-7 P sts in these 4 P-sections).
When you have worked rib on all sts to marker C and D, slip all sts on a stitch holder and slip the 66-78-84-96-102-114 sts from stitch holder on the other side back on circular needle size 4.5 mm.

Repeat in the same way on this side of piece with start from RS from marker B and work rib to marker C and D.
Now slip all sts on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm.

Continue in rib in the round (= K2/ P2 + the inc P-sts at the side) AT THE SAME TIME dec and inc in the rib on EVERY round as follows (this will create the sloped rib effect on the yoke):
Beg 3 sts before marker C and marker D (= mid front/mid back) and dec 1 st by P2 tog.
Beg 1 st after marker C and marker D and dec 1 st by P2 tog (i.e. dec each side of the middle 2 K-sts mid front/mid back).
AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side of the middle sts each side (i.e. the 7 sts each side of marker A and B + the inc sts in each P-section). Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO into back of loop – work inc sts in rib as you go along.
When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm - measured mid front (inc in P-sections at the side are now complete) work 4 rows garter st on the middle 30-30-30-34-34-34 sts each side (i.e. 15-15-15-17-17-17 sts each side of marker A and B) AT THE SAME TIME on the first row dec 8 sts evenly = 22-22-22-26-26-26 sts (i.e. 11-11-11-13-13-13 sts each side of marker A and B) – NOTE: work remaining sts as before. On next row cast off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 sts each side (i.e. 8-8-8-9-9-9 sts each side of marker A and B) and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 80-96-104-122-130-146 sts. Continue in rib as before but with 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME continue dec mid back and inc towards the sides as before (inc at the sides inside the 3-3-3-4-4-4 garter sts).
When piece measures 79-82-85-88-91-94 cm – measured mid back – armhole now measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm – K 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-32-38-54-58-72 sts evenly. K next row, AT THE SAME TIME slip the middle 26-26-26-28-32-32 sts on a stitch holder for neck = 18-19-20-20-20-21 sts left on shoulder. Work garter st back and forth until piece measures 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm, cast off loosely.

FRONT PIECE:
= 80-96-104-122-130-146 sts. Continue in rib as before but with the 3-3-3-4-4-4 sts each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME continue dec mid front and inc towards the sides as before (inc inside the 3-3-3-4-4-4 garter sts each side). When piece measures approx 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm – measured mid front (approx 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm now remain until finished measurements) slip the middle 26-26-34-34-42-58 sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each shoulder separately = 27-35-35-44-44-44 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in rib as before AT THE SAME TIME inc and dec as before (dec towards neck inside edge st). When piece measures 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm - measured mid front - work shoulder as follows: Continue in rib with dec towards neck AT THE SAME TIME slip the outermost 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts towards armhole on a stitch holder at beg of row from the side (i.e. from armhole) – NOTE: work sts before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the thread. Work remaining sts on row, turn piece and work return row. Continue like this back and forth AT THE SAME TIME slipping the outermost 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts from the side on the same stitch holder at the beg of every row from the side until all sts are on the stitch holder – NOTE: the last time there might be fewer/more than 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts. Now slip all sts from this stitch holder back on circular needle size 4.5 mm. K 1 row from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 18-19-20-20-20-21 sts. K 1 row from WS and cast off loosely with K from RS. Repeat the other side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.
NECKLINE:
Pick up approx 80-105 sts round neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca. P 1 round, K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to approx 128-136-144-152-160-168 sts (divisible by 4). Work rib, K2/ P2, until neckline measures approx 3-3.5 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

7.p: strikk 2 vr i første m (dette for å øke den ene vrang-m til 2 vr), deretter gjentar man * 2 r, 2 vr * totalt 9 ganger og avslutter med 2 rett (man har da rikket 2 m rett mer ivrborden på denne vendingen, snu arb. 8.p: Ta 1.m løs av p, stram tråden og strikk 1 vr (her økes det ikke for dette er 2 rett sett fra retten), gjenta * 2 r, 2 vr * totalt 9 ganger og avslutt med 2 r og 2 vr (det er nå strikket 2 m mer på vrborden på denne vendingen òg og dette er også 2 rett-m sett fra retten).

21.10.2010 - 13:07

country flag Lilly/ Bentes Boutique wrote:

Hei har en kunde i butikken som har problem med oppskrift nr 4 i bok nr 125. Etter 6.p på bærestykke står det: Fortsett vendingene slik til det er strikket vrbord frem og tilbake over alle m (= frem til merke C og D = midt foran/bak) osv Men problemet er at vi ikke skjønner logikken i økningene. Har prøvd å strikke alle 6 omg, det er jo greit,men hvordan fortsetter vi? skal alle 6 omg gjentas? eller bare de siste 3 - 4 omg ? Lilly Bentes Boutique

19.10.2010 - 16:54

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Ja, det måles mit foran til arbeidet måler totalt: 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm. 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm fra der bærestyke starter.

28.09.2010 - 11:30

country flag Anne Kjersti wrote:

Er det riktig at det skal måles lengde midt foran når en skal måle før en feller for ermer ("Når arb måler 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm - målt midt foran...")? Ser for meg ut som det bllir veldig høy ribb da? Ville tro det heller er i siden dette målet skal tas?

26.09.2010 - 14:14

country flag Lisa wrote:

Jetzt wär noch schön, wenn der Link zum Strickmuster funktioniert

14.07.2010 - 11:46

country flag Natalie wrote:

I like this very much...definitely would like to knit...both autumn/winter in wool and spring/summer in cotton!!!

04.07.2010 - 01:10

country flag Monika wrote:

Unkompliziert-einfach schön!

25.06.2010 - 20:54

country flag Uschi wrote:

Schlicht aber sehr schick genau richtig!!!!!

12.06.2010 - 14:30

country flag Hanne wrote:

Nydelig og enkel. Et godt prosjekt til oss som ikke har all verdens tålmodighet, men vil ha en fin basiskjole til høsten!

08.06.2010 - 10:55

country flag Iviva wrote:

Passe-partout et indispensable dans une garde-robe. A décliner dans tous les tons .

04.06.2010 - 15:55