DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 125-29
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-524
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 8120m, denim/grey mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4.5 mm - for rib
DROPS SILVER BUTTON, no 534: 5-5-5-5-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. Row 1 = from RS.
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JACKET: Worked from side to side in 4 parts which are sewn tog afterwards.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle, begin by sleeve edge. Cast on 54-54-58-58-62-62 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 strands Alpaca. K 1 row and continue in rib K2/P2 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 4 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 2 rows garter st, beg from RS, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 10-8-10-8-10-8 sts evenly = 44-46-48-50-52-54 sts. Continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st, 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts in reverse stocking st, M.1 (= 24 sts), 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts in reverse stocking st, 1 edge st. Continue like this. AT THE SAME TIME inc each side as follows:
On right side of piece (at beg of row):
Inc 2 st by working 2 sts in the 2 outermost sts, repeat the inc on every 4th row a total of 14-13-12-11-9-7 times and then on every other row a total of 9-10-11-12-14-16 times.
On left side of piece (at the end of row):
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the outermost st, repeat the inc on every 6th row a total of 3-0-0-0-0-0 times, then on every 4th row a total of 23-26-26-26-24-24 times and then on every other row a total of 0-2-2-4-8-8 times.
Work inc sts in reverse stocking st. Continue like this. When inc on right side of piece are complete (piece now measures approx 37-36-35-34-32-30 cm) dec 1 edge st on right side of piece, continue as before, but now work the first 5 sts on needle in garter st. When inc on left side of piece are complete (piece now measure approx 52-52-53-53-54-54 cm) there are 115-119-121-125-129-131 sts on needle. Now cast off for neck at beg of every row from WS as follows: 10 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 98-102-104-108-112-114 sts. Continue until piece measures 59-60-61-62-63-64 cm, now dec 6 sts evenly on M.1 = 92-96-98-102-106-108 sts. Work 4 rows garter st, on next row from RS make buttonholes as follows: work 24-28-30-34-22-24 sts, * K2 tog, 1 YO, work 14 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times, finish with K2 tog, 1 YO and K2 tog. Continue in garter st until piece measures 63-64-65-66-67-68 cm, cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but inc and dec at the opposite sides.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work like right front piece. When piece measures approx 52-52-53-53-54-54 cm (adjust to where neck beg on front piece) cast off 5 sts for neck at beg of row from WS = 110-114-116-120-124-126 sts on needle. Continue until piece measures 59-60-61-62-63-64 cm, cast off.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Like left back piece, but inc and dec at the opposite sides.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew back pieces tog mid back. Sew shoulder/over arm seams inside 1 edge st. Sew under arm seam inside 1 edge st.

NECK:
Pick up approx 70 to 90 sts round neck (also on front bands). Work 4 rounds garter st and cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.03.2022
Cast off for neck on left back piece is edited into: ... cast off 5 sts for neck at beg of row from WS = 110-114-116-120-124-126 sts on needle.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K1, K1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K1, P1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Pina wrote:

Salve, sto tentando di lavorare un top di cotone con maniche pipistrello da lato a lato, ma procedendo, dopo gli aumenti per il fianco, inevitabilmente il lavoro prende una forma sbieca che non riesco a correggere. Pensavo dipendesse dal punto che stavo lavorando così l'ho cambiato, ma anche con un punto diverso succede la stessa cosa. Dove sbaglio? Grazie per l'aiuto che vorrete darmi!

21.05.2023 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Pina, può indicarci il punto delle spiegazioni a cui fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!

22.05.2023 - 16:35

country flag Thibaud Marjolaine wrote:

Bonjour, J'arrive au dos gauche et vous indiquez "rabattre 5 m pour l'encolure en début de rang sur l'endroit" mais on est bien d'accord que l'encolure de cette partie se rabat sur lenvers du travail (et donc un rang tricoté à l'endroit) ? D'autre part, les 5 mailles à rabattre se font sur un seul rang ? Cela va faire une encolure très "carrée" dans le dos non ? Merci d'avance pour vos réponses !

18.02.2022 - 22:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thibaud, je trouve comme vous, j'ai donc transféré votre remarque à nos stylistes; à la fin, vous relèverez les mailles autour de l'encolure, ainsi, le col arrondira les angles. Bon tricot!

21.02.2022 - 08:55

country flag Thibaud Marjolaine wrote:

Bonjour, je commence ce modèle et j'ai une question concernant les augmentations : il est indiqué de faire des augmentations en début et fin de rang. Si j'ai bien compris, la première se fait au rang 5 (taille XL) donc sur l'endroit. Pouvez vous me confirmer ? Du coup les deux mailles à tricoter 2 fois doivent l'être en jersey envers ? La vidéo d'aide montre un KFB sur l'endroit, du coup je ne comprends pas. Merci pour votre aide !

15.01.2022 - 08:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thibault, effectivement, la première augmentation à droite se fait au 5ème rang; on augmente en tricotant 2 fois les 2 premières mailles que vous tricotez 2 fois à l'envers; la vidéo montre la technique du "alternativement dans le brin avant et arrière", mais effectivement vous devez bien les tricoter à l'envers comme l'indique les explications. Bon trico!t

17.01.2022 - 08:08

country flag Viola wrote:

Billedet i opskriften er meget misvisende mht. kropslængde. Er der andre, der har strikket denne flotte poncho-trøje, som kunne tænke dig at lægge et billede op? Den jeg har strikket, i den mindste størrelse, passer på alle mål. Min datter som skal have trøjen er 174 cm høj og den går ned over hoften på hende. Hun blev meget skuffet, da hun meget forståeligt havde forventet en trøje som på billedet. Mvh Viola

17.10.2021 - 07:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Viola. Det var jo kjedelig høre. Har du den oppgitte strikkefastheten og er målene du ser på målskissen (nederst på oppskriften) de samme som på plagget du har strikket? For å få innspill fra andre som har strikket denne, kan du legge ut spørsmålet på diverse strikkegrupper på sosiale medier, f.eks DROPS Workshop. mvh DROPS Design

18.10.2021 - 10:50

country flag Nicole wrote:

Hallo , ich kann das Teil doch mit normalen Nadeln stricken , oder muss es unbedingt Rundnadeln sein ??

06.06.2021 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, jedes Teil wird hier mit Rundnadel gestrickt, damit es genügend Platz für alle Maschen gibt, Paarnadeln können Sie auch mal benutzen, die Maschen werden nur etwas eng. Hier lesen Sie mehr darüber. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.06.2021 - 07:34

country flag Ascarain wrote:

Ou est ce que je peux commander la laine drops j'habite ds les Pyrénées Atlantiques Merci d'avance

30.05.2021 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ascarain, retrouvez la liste de tous les magasins DROPS en France ici - vous trouverez leurs coordonnées en cliquant sur leur nom. Bon tricot!

31.05.2021 - 07:52

country flag Elza wrote:

I wish I can send you a picture of the jersey I want

10.09.2020 - 13:54

country flag Sylvie W wrote:

Bonjour Ce modèle est il adapté à une débutante ? Merci

17.05.2019 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie W, si vous lisez attentivement toutes les indications et les suivez bien comme il faut, vous devriez être en mesure de réaliser ce modèle. Vous pouvez utiliser cette rubrique pour poser votre question ou bien contacter votre magasin - même par mail ou téléphone- pour toute assistance individuelle. Bon tricot!

20.05.2019 - 08:37

country flag Susi wrote:

Hallo, sie schreiben - glatt, mit der Rückseite nach aussen stricken, heißt das auf der Vorderseite werden die Hinreihen (außer M1) immer links gestrickt und die Rückreihen immer rechts? - damit auf der Vorderseite alles links erschein? Danke.

20.12.2018 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susi, ja genauso wird es gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.12.2018 - 12:20

country flag Susi wrote:

Hallo, sind in dem Diagramm M1 Hin- und Rückreihen gezeichnet oder sind das nur die Hinreihen? Wie werden die Rückreihen gestrickt. Danke.

18.12.2018 - 13:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susi, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeigt, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen - Hinreihen lesen Sie rechts nach links und Rückreihen links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.12.2018 - 13:19