DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 121-33
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-008
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Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS NEPAL
550-650-700-750-800-900 g colour no 6314, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 12 tr x 7 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SHELL BUTTON w/hole no 526, 6-6-6-6-7-7 pcs..

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace first tr on each round/row with 3 ch.
Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round/beg of previous row.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
DECREASING TIP: Work 1 tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next tr, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook – 1 dec tr.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked from top down, back and forth from mid front. Work 91-99-107-115-123-131 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and Nepal. Work next row as follows:
1 tr in 4th ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-*, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 tr in the last 2 ch = 67-73-79-85-91-97 tr – see CROCHET INFO. Now work 10 rows acc to M.1 (5 tr each side = front band, work 1 tr in each tr – not included in diagram). After M.1 there are 162-178-194-210-226-242 tr on row. Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm continue as follows: 5 tr on front band, 1-0-2-1-0-2 tr, repeat M.2 until 6-5-7-6-5-7 tr remain, finish with 1-0-2-1-0-2 tr and 5 tr on front band. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm. Work next row as follows: 24-27-30-33-36-40 tr (front piece), 8 ch (under sleeve/armhole), skip 38-40-42-44-46-46 tr from previous round (to be used later for sleeve), 38-44-50-56-62-70 tr (back piece), 8 ch (under sleeve/armhole), skip 38-40-42-44-46-46 tr from previous row (to be used later for sleeve) and 24-27-30-33-36-40 tr (front piece). Continue with 1 tr in each tr/ch = 102-114-126-138-150-166 tr. Insert a marker in the middle of the 8 ch under sleeve each side (back piece = 46-52-58-64-70-78 tr, front piece = 28-31-34-37-40-44 tr). Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm dec 8 sts evenly (do not dec on front band) - see DECREASING TIP = 94-106-118-130-142-158 tr. When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm inc 12-12-12-12-12-14 tr evenly (do not inc on front band) = 106-118-130-142-154-172 tr. When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm continue as follows: 5 tr on front band, repeat M.2, finish with 5 tr on front band. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut and fasten thread.

SLEEVE:
Worked from top down. Beg mid under sleeve as follows: 1 dc in the 5th of the 8 ch under sleeve/on armhole. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr) and continue with 1 tr in each ch. NOTE: Before continuing over armhole work 1 tr in transition (to avoid a hole). Continue with 1 tr in each tr over armhole, work 1 tr in transition and work 1 tr in each of the remaining ch under sleeve = 48-50-52-54-56-56 tr. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 4 cm dec 1 tr each side of marker, see DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 4.5-4.5-4-4-4-4 cm, a total of 8-8-9-9-9-9 times = 32-34-34-36-38-38 tr. Cut and fasten thread when sleeve measures 45-45-44-44-43-43 cm – NOTE – less for the larger sizes because of wider neck and shoulder.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on left front piece – place the top one 1 cm from neckline, then the remaining with approx 8 cm between each. Use gap between 2 tr on front band as buttonhole.

Diagram

symbols = 1 tr in tr
symbols = 1 tr in ch-loop
symbols = ch
symbols = 2 tr in the same tr
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (130)

country flag Annette Lohse wrote:

Hej Vil gerne i gang med denne flotte jakke, men er i tvivl om str. Der er ingen brystvidde angivet. Har ledt på siden efter generel størrelsesguide, men kan ingen finde. Kan i hjælpe? På forhånd tak. Mvh Annette

17.02.2015 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette. Nederst paa mönstret er der en maalskitse med alle maal i cm per störrelse.

18.02.2015 - 12:54

country flag Hilary wrote:

Hi. Following the pattern, it says that after M1 continue till piece measures 18cm. But after the 10 rows of M1, my piece measures 23 cm. Will this be a problem?

07.02.2015 - 02:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hilary, remember to check your tension, you should get and keep 12 tr x 7 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Happy crocheting!

07.02.2015 - 09:21

Kari wrote:

When reading the pattern, I know that you start at the bottom right corner. When moving on to the second and so on rows do you continue to read it right to left or do you switch to left to right?

01.02.2015 - 19:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kari, you read 1st row in diagram and every other row from the right towards the left, and 2nd row and every other row from the left towards the right. Happy crocheting!

02.02.2015 - 12:58

country flag Hilary wrote:

Hi. This is the first time I am attempting one of your patterns. Your sizes are listed as XS/S M, L etc. Is it possible to know the exact measurements in inches or cm please?

28.01.2015 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hilary. The measurements are listed on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the pattern. The measurements are in cm per size.

28.01.2015 - 16:31

country flag Sunny wrote:

Hello again, Could you pls list the number of chains after each row during M.1? I keep getting wrong number of chains after 10 rows.

24.01.2015 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sunny, I'm sorry I'm not sure which chains you are wondering - you crochet 3 turning ch at the end of each row and work 5 dc, repeat diag M.1, 5 dc. Diag. M.1 starts at the bottom corner on the right side and read towards the left (row 1 and every other row), then read from the left towards the right (row 2 and every other row). Row 1 is worked over 3 sts (and becomes 4 sts in each repeat), last row is worked over 7 sts (and becomes 8 sts in each repeat). Happy crocheting!

26.01.2015 - 09:57

country flag Sunny wrote:

The cardigan is beautiful! At the row 2, we need to do 10 rows of M1 where the diagram is shown below the pattern. By the way, it starts with 3+1 DC till it becomes 7+1 with after 10 rows. I suppose this is a step to increase total number of chains. Can you explain how to achieve to from ch 67 to ch 162 (small size here). Thank you in advance.

22.01.2015 - 04:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sunny, you will work M.1 as follows, starting at the bottom corner on the right side reading towards the left from RS, and from the left towards the right from WS: 5 dc, repeat M.1 (= 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts) until 5 sts remains at the end of row, 1 dc in each of the last 5 sts. Continue upwards until the 10 rows of M.1 has been made, you will have 162 dc when M.1 has been worked 1 time in height over all sts. Happy crocheting!

22.01.2015 - 10:29

country flag Kate wrote:

In body piece - M.2., repeat M2 until 7 tr remain. Question, 7 stitches remain where? Can't be 7 stitches left to be worked. Sorry but I can't understand this one. Thank you. Doing well until this point, now I'm stuck!

19.01.2015 - 01:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, you repeat M2 until 7 sts remain before the end of row, then work over the last 7 sts on row as follows: 2 tr in next st, 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr. Happy crocheting!

19.01.2015 - 14:08

country flag Monika wrote:

Ich verstehe den Abschnitt nach der Reihe mit den Luftmaschen für den Ärmeleinsatz nicht. Wenn ich die Maschenzahl für die Ärmelreihe addiere, komme ich in Größe L auf 194 Maschen. "Weiter je ein Stb/jede fM=126 Maschen" Wie komme ich von 194 auf 216 Maschen? Wieso fM?

16.01.2015 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Sie haben ja eine bestimmte Anzahl M für die Ärmel übersprungen und dafür nur 8 Lm gehäkelt. Nun häkeln Sie also 30 Stb für das Vorderteil, 8 Stb für den Armausschnitt (in jede Lm 1 Stb), 50 Stb für das Rückenteil, 8 Stb für den anderen Armausschnitt und 30 Stb für das Vorderteil = 126 M. Die Angabe "fM" war ein Fehler, der gerade korrigiert wurde, es muss "Lm" heißen.

17.01.2015 - 18:26

country flag Bettina wrote:

Buonasera,complimenti per questo modello facile e elegante!Quale taglia porta la modella nella foto? Non sono sicura di aver capito bene la misura da fare per me. La ringrazio

04.09.2014 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Bettina. Nel diagramma in basso, alla fine delle spiegazioni del modello, trova le taglie espresse in cm. Confrontando queste misure con quelle di un suo indumento analogo, dovrebbe riuscire ad individuare la taglia corretta da seguire. Buon lavoro!

04.09.2014 - 22:47

country flag Michelle Turner wrote:

Thank you for answering me. But I still don't understand 1-0-2-1-0-2 dc. Please explain more specificly, or can I contact Sue L since she has finished her jacket for her grand daughter. Thank you.

13.03.2014 - 00:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Turner, when it says : "5 dc on front band, 1-0-2-1-0-2 dc, repeat M.2 ..", if you work size S or XL, work 5 dc on front band, then 1 dc in next st - if you work size M or XXL, start M.2 - if you work size L or XXXL, work 5 dc on front band then 1 dc in next 2 sts, then M.2. Happy crocheting!

13.03.2014 - 09:09