DROPS / 121 / 4

Evening Diamond by DROPS Design

DROPS pletená sukně z příze "Delight".

Velikost: S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL
Materiál: DROPS DELIGHT firmy Garnstudio
250-250-250-300-300-350 g, barva č.03, modrý mix
DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE (80 cm) č.3 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 24 ok x 48 řad vroubkovým vzorem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS KNOFLÍKY č.525 (průměr 15 mm): 3-3-3-4-4-4 ks.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

75% vlna, 25% polyamid
od 90.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 90.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 450Kč. Více zde.

Návod

TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Přidáváme nahozením. V následující řadě pleteme nahození hladce za zadní nit, aby v pletenině nevznikla dírka.

KNOFLÍKOVÉ DÍRKY:
Dírky vyplétáme v přední léze. 1 knoflíková dírka = uzavřeme 3. a 4. oko od okraje légy a v následující řadě na tomtéž místě 2 oka nahodíme.
Dírky vyplétáme v těchto rozestupech:
Velikost S+M+L: 1, 4 a 7 cm.
Velikost XL+XXL+XXXL: 1, 4, 6 a 9 cm.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

SUKNĚ:
Sukni pleteme celou vroubkovým vzorem (tj. stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady) v 8 dílech, které nakonec sešijeme.

1. DÍL:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3 nahodíme přízí Delight 2 oka a upleteme 1 řadu (= rubová) hladce. V lícové řadě označíme 2. oko a pleteme v řadách, SOUČASNĚ přidáváme před značkou takto:
Velikost S + M + L: přidáváme 1 oko střídavě v každé 3. a 4. řadě.
Velikost XL + XXL + XXXL: přidáváme 1 oko v každé 3. řadě.
Takto postupujeme dokud nemáme na jehlici celkem 47-52-56-63-69-77 ok. Pak oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici.

2. DÍL:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3 nahodíme přízí Delight 2 oka a upleteme 1 řadu (= rubová) hladce. V lícové řadě označíme 1. oko a pleteme v řadách, SOUČASNĚ přidáváme v každé 2. řadě za značkou 1 oko. Takto postupujeme dokud nemáme na jehlici celkem 78-87-94-94-103-115 ok. Pak oka odložíme na další pomocnou jehlici.

1. a 2. DÍL sešijeme za vnější části ok.

3. DÍL:
Pleteme jako 1. DÍL, ale zrcadlově převrácený.

4. DÍL:
Pleteme jako 2. DÍL, ale zrcadlově převrácený.
3. a 4. DÍL sešijeme za vnější části ok.

5., 6., 7. a 8. DÍL:
Pleteme jako 1., 2., 3. a 4. DÍL.

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme 1./2. a 3./4. DÍL (= přední část) i 5./6. a 7./8. DÍL (= zadní část) za vnější části ok.
Obě části pak spojíme pletacím stehem za odložená oka z pomocných jehlic.

PAS:
Začínáme na levé straně pleteniny nad středovým švem. Všechna oka z pomocných jehlic vrátíme zpět na jehlici a nad každým švem mezi jednotlivými díly nabereme 1-2 oka. Upleteme 1 rubovou a 1 lícovou řadu, SOUČASNĚ upravíme počet ok na 182-202-224-250-274-302 ok a SOUČASNĚ nahodíme na konci této řady 6 nových ok pro légu = 188-208-230-256-280-308 ok. Pleteme v řadách nad všemi oky. SOUČASNĚ ve výši légy asi 1 cm zyčneme vyplétat knoflíkové dírky – viz výše.
SOUČASNĚ ve výši pasu asi 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm ujmeme rovnoměrně 10-10-10-10-5-5 ok (ujímáme mimo légu) = 178-198-220-246-275-303 ok. Pokračujeme do výše pasu asi 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, pak oka uzavřeme. Přišijeme knoflíky.

Schéma


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 121-4) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (36)

Anna 15.10.2019 - 20:20:

Jag får inte rätt på del 1 för storlek S. Ser i frågetråden att man ska sticka två varv, göra omslag på tredje, sen sticka 3 varv, omslag på fjärde -sen börja om med två varv igen. Så det är en upprepning på 7 varv hela tiden? Det måste vara något tokigt för när jag mäter min färdiga stickningen av del 1 så stämmer den i bred (18cm) men inte i höjd (endast 32 cm, när det ska vara 41!). Vore väldigt tacksam för ett förtydligande, tack!

Yvonne Görmar 10.06.2019 - 13:10:

Das Muster ist ja eine schöne Herausforderung, und ich glaube, ich habe fast alles verstanden. Eine Frage: Warum muss man bei den Teilen 2, 4, 6 und 8 die Maschen auf einen HIlfsfaden legen? Zum Zusammennähen im Maschenstich? Oder kann man auch abketten und "normal" zusammennähen? Danke!

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 11:50:

Liebe Frau Görmar, die Maschen werden dann im Maschentstich zusammengenäht, abketten können Sie, aber beachten Sie, das die Arbeit nicht zu eng wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Reix 22.03.2018 - 19:22:

Bonsoir, j'aimerais savoir combien de pelotes il me faut pour ce modèle en taille 40 (L). De plus je voudrais que la jupe m'arrive à hauteur du genou, c'est à dire en longueur 52 cm. Combien de pelotes il faut rajouter? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

DROPS Design 26.03.2018 kl. 09:56:

Bonjour Mme Reix, vous trouverez la quantité totale nécessaire pour chaque taille, au poids, sous l'en-tête des explications, soit 5 pelotes en taille L. Nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle, vous pouvez volontiers vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS ou à un forum de tricot pour toute assistance complémentaire pour adapter cette jupe à vos envies. Bon tricot!

Katerina 03.01.2018 - 19:03:

Hi! As far as I understand, first, in this pattern parts 1 and 3 are knitted from top to bottom, part 2 from right to left and part 4 from left to right. And second, the stitches from the stitch holder on part 2 are grafted with the stitches on the stitch holder from part 8. Am I right? Thank you.

DROPS Design 04.01.2018 kl. 13:25:

Dear Katerina, part 1 and 3 are worked from the tip (= cast on 3 sts) to the top (= increase until there are 47-77 sts - see size). Part 2 and 4 are worked top down (= cast on 2 sts and increase until there are 78-115 sts). See also measurement chart with all parts. Happy knitting!

Tanja 03.12.2017 - 16:21:

Hallo, wie ist das bei Teil 3 und 4 mit dem spiegelverkehrt stricken gemeint? Ist es so gemeint das ich da mit der hohen Maschenzahl anfange und dann entsprechend abnehme? LG Tanja

DROPS Design 04.12.2017 kl. 09:48:

Liebe Tanja, spiegelverkehr bedeutet wenn Sie vor bzw nach der Markierer zugenommen haben, jetzt werden Sie nach bzw vor der Markierer zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Stephanie 27.06.2016 - 12:23:

Hi, do I work 3 rows and increase on that 3rd row, then work 4 rows and work inc on that row (2 inc at same side) Then again on following 3rd then again on following 4th (2 inc now at opposite side of marker). Can you explain the line on pattern, "inc 1 stitch on 3rd and 4th row alternately" please as I can't get this to work out. Thanks again for helping out.

DROPS Design 27.06.2016 kl. 17:39:

Dear Stephanie, when inc alternately every 3rd and every 4th row, work as follows: *work 2 rows, inc on next row (= 3rd row), work 3 rows, inc on next row (= 4th row)* and repeat from *-*. Happy knitting!

Stephanie 25.06.2016 - 13:24:

Hi, confused starting section 1. If I inc on 3rd row, then 4th etc I'm inc 2 stitches on one side of marker then 2 stitches at other side, resulting in piece being a triangle. On chart, piece one has an angle at left and straight edge at right. Piece 3 being a mirror image and two pieces sewn together. Cannot understand why inc are not done at same side to give angle. Also can't figure out how a total of 104 stitches is enough for the waist of medium size. Help appreciated.

DROPS Design 27.06.2016 kl. 09:41:

See answer below :)

Stephanie 25.06.2016 - 12:26:

Hi, confused starting section 1. If I inc on 3rd row, then 4th etc I'm inc 2 stitches on one side of marker then 2 stitches at other side, resulting in piece being a triangle. On chart, piece one has an angle at left and straight edge at right. Piece 3 being a mirror image and two pieces sewn together. Cannot understand why inc are not done at same side to give angle. Also can't figure out how a total of 104 stitches is enough for the waist of medium size. Help appreciated.

DROPS Design 27.06.2016 kl. 09:33:

Dear Stephanie, you inc before last st seen from RS, so that right side of piece will be straight and left side of piece will create a diagonal. Part 1 and 3 are for front piece, you will work 2 similar pieces for back piece = 104 sts x 2 = 208 sts around the waist. Happy knitting!

Jess 17.06.2016 - 15:46:

Just to clarify size. Is the cm measurement on chart given for garment lying flat. So size Small would measure 64 cm from left to right and 128cm all the way around. Waist 36 flat left to right and 72cm all around waist. Thanks.

DROPS Design 17.06.2016 kl. 19:54:

Dear Jess,you're right, these are the measurement for the bottom part; for size S waist measurement are 36 cm lying flat and 72 cm all the way round. Happy knitting!

Elisabeth 12.11.2014 - 00:24:

Jeg kunne tenke meg å lage dette skjørtet lengre uten å samtidig måtte gå opp i størrelse. Vil den meste måten å gjøre dette på være å forlenge linningen?

DROPS Design 12.11.2014 kl. 11:52:

Hej Elisabeth. Det kan du forsöge - eller strik flere pinde imellem ökningerne paa trekanterne, saa de bliver laengere - men ikke bredere.

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