DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Warm Hug

Knitted DROPS blanket with squares in different structured patterns in ”Nepal”.

DROPS 124-3
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-001
Yarn group C
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Measurements:
Width: approx 96 cm / 37 3/4''.
Length: approx 126 cm / 49½''.

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
1100 g color no 0100, off-white

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm/24" or 32") size 5 mm/ US 8 - for border

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.4. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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BLANKET:
Each square worked back and forth on needle.
Knit 5 of each type of square = a total of 20 squares.

SQUARE 1:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 12 sts evenly (do not inc on the 2 sts each side) = 50 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly (do not dec on the 2 sts each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now bind off from WS with K sts.

SQUARE 2:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 7 sts evenly (do not inc on the 2 sts each side) = 45 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.2 until square measures approx 1 cm / 3/8'' less than square 1. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly (do not dec on the 2 sts each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now bind off from WS with K sts.

SQUARE 3:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS, K 1 row RS and P 1 row from WS. Now continue in M.3 with 1 garter st each side until square measures approx 1 cm / 3/8'' less than square 1 (adjust to a half or full repeat). Now K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS, K 1 row RS and bind off from WS in K sts.

SQUARE 4:
Cast on 38 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 18 sts evenly (do not inc on the 2 sts each side) = 56 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in M.4 until square measures approx 1 cm / 3/8'' less than square 1 (adjust to after 3 rows after a cable). K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18 sts evenly (do not dec on the 2 sts each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Now bind off from WS with K sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the squares as shown in Fig.1. Number indicates type of square and the arrow the knitting direction. Sew tog edge to edge in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

BORDER:
Worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows. Pick up sts along one short side on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Pick up 1 st in each st (also pick up in transitions between squares). Work garter st back and forth on needle until edge measures approx 4 cm / 1 1/2''. Bind off.

Knit a similar border along the other short side.

Pick up sts in the same way along the long side, also pick up sts along the 8 cm / 3 1/8'' border on the short side, and work garter st back and forth on needle until border measures approx 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off.
Repeat along the other long side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.01.2017
Small correction in chart M.1
Updated online: 04.07.2018
The border is 4 cm/1 1/2" on all sides. (previously 8 cm/3" on the shorter sides)

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 124-3

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Comments / Questions (229)

country flag Shelagh Weedon wrote:

Thanks so very much for your prompt and clear response to my question! I think I lost the forest for the trees on this one. I appreciate your clarification .

21.03.2024 - 16:54

country flag Shelagh Weedon wrote:

I am stuck on the M3 pattern; pattern says to cast on 38 sts and to work a garter st on each side of the diagram. There are only 8 sts across in the diagram so adding 1 garter st to each side = 10 sts so a row doesn't fit into 38 sts. Please let me know what I'm doing wrong , many thanks!

21.03.2024 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Weedon, work the 38 sts as follows: 1 st in garter stitch, repeat a total of 4 times in total the 8 sts in M.3 (32 sts in total), work the first 4 sts in M.3 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch= 1+32+4+1=38. Happy knitting!

21.03.2024 - 15:58

country flag Giny De Jong wrote:

Klopt het wel dat het 3e vierkant maar 38 steken bevat en er niet gemeerderd wordt? Dan wordt het vierkant toch veel kleiner dan de rest?

06.12.2023 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Giny,

Het meerderen wordt met name gedaan bij de vierkanten waar kabels gemaakt worden. De kabels trekken het werk namelijk samen. Aan het eind wordt er dan weer geminderd naar 38 steken.

06.12.2023 - 19:50

country flag Alice wrote:

Do you have advice for blocking each square prior to sewing together?

24.11.2023 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alice, you could block them with pins on a yoga mat, for example, wet them and let them dry until the acquire the required shape. You can also block them with the steam from the iron, but more carefully and without making direct contact (with a towel or cloth in between the piece and the iron). Happy knitting!

26.11.2023 - 19:06

country flag DELEMARRE wrote:

Bonjour je tricote la couverture 124-3. Pouvez vous m'indiquer sur quelle ligne se trouve la correction du diagramme M1. Cette correction a été diffusée le 26/01/2017. Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement Martine Delemarre

23.11.2023 - 08:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Delemarre, cette correction ne s'applique que si vous aviez imprimé les explications avant cette date, et dans ce cas, il est recommandé d'imprimer les explications à nouveau, sinon, le diagramme est juste tel quel. Bon tricot!

23.11.2023 - 08:43

country flag Stallmann, Ursula wrote:

Ich würde gerne diese Decke stricken, 20 Quadrate im Zopfmuster u.a. Aber gerne Wolle die nicht filzt. Können Sie mir da was anbieten?

16.11.2023 - 13:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Stallmann, wenn Sie die Pflegehinweise richtig folgen, dann sollte die Wolle nicht filzen; aber gerne können Sie auch eine Superwash Wolle stricken, wie z.B. Big Merino von der Garngruppe C wie Nepal, oder 2 Fäden der Garngruppe A, z.B. 2 Fäden Baby Merino oder Fabel, benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um die Alternative zu sehen sowie die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren zu lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2023 - 08:08

country flag Vilma Becerra wrote:

DROPS. 124-3 Aplicación 1 Al realizar el diagrama el tejido me sale larguísimo , son 54 vueltas por el lado derecho y sus respectivas vueltas por el lado revés . Como va a encajar con el Aplicación 3 si esta solo tiene 38 puntos de ancho y va vertical y la Aplicación 1 va horizontal , espero su explicación , de repente estoy haciendo mal , gracias

19.08.2023 - 02:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Vilma, M.1 muestra todas las filas VISTAS por el lado derecho. Eso incluye las filas de revés. Por lo tanto, las vueltas impar de A.1 son las filas por el lado derecho y las filas par de A.1 son las filas por el lado revés; es decir, por el lado revés también se trabaja A.1. Por lo tanto, deberías tener 56 filas en total y no 108.

20.08.2023 - 17:48

country flag Nicole Dupuis wrote:

Est ce que les rangs a l,envers sont a l.envers ou selon la mailles qui se presente

29.01.2023 - 06:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dupuis, sur l'envers, lisez les diagrammes de gauche à droite en suivant bien les indications de la légende (= une case blanche se tricote à l'envers sur l'envers, un point noir se tricote à l'endroit sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

30.01.2023 - 09:17

country flag Bonnie wrote:

Hallo, Bei M1 soll laut Foto in der Mitte des großen Zopfes ein Perlmuster entstehen. Wenn ich nach Diagramm stricke, wird es aber immer 1 rechts 1 links. Das ergibt sich auch logisch aus dem Diagramm, denn die leeren Quadrate und Punkte im Diagramm sind ja jeweils um 1 Masche versetzt und ergeben so immer in der Hinreihe rechts und in der Rückreihe links sowie umgekehrt auch Hinreihe links gefolgt von Rückreihe rechts. Oder verstehe ich da etwas falsch?

26.12.2022 - 16:48

Bonnie answered:

Ich habe meinen Fehler gefunden. Entschuldigung

26.12.2022 - 19:09

country flag Ingelise wrote:

Jeg er ved at strikke Warm Hug men syntes at der mangler noget i opskriften. Rude 1 diagram m1. Det er ligesom om at der mangler noget i diagrammet når der skal snoes begge veje. Jeg syntes at der. Mangler en linie som går skrå fra venstre lige som den går skrå fra højre. Giver det mening?..

28.11.2022 - 16:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingelise, jeg ved ikke lige hvor du mener... Alle de store snoninger skal snos samme vej. Prøv gerne at strikke diagrammet og beskriv hvilken pind du er på, hvis det ikke ser ud som på billedet :)

30.11.2022 - 14:49