DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.95€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 122-31
DROPS design: Pattern no X-356
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 04, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4.5 mm - for rib.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON no 538, 5-6-6-6-6-7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.95€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
Row 1 (from RS): * K1, 1 garter st *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2 (from WS): * 1 garter st, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat row 1 and 2 (= garter st over garter st and K over K)

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
From RS:
Dec as follows before marker:
Beg 4 sts before st with marker: K2 tog, P1, K3 (marker sits in the second of these 3 sts), P1
Dec as follows after marker:
Beg 2 sts before marker: P1, K3 (marker sits in the second of these 3 sts), P1, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
From WS:
Before marker:
Beg 4 sts before st with marker: P2 tog into back of loop, K1, P3 (marker sits in the second of these 3 sts), K1.
After marker:
Beg 2 sts before marker:
K1, P3 (marker sits in the second of these 3 sts), K1, P2 tog.
(Work the 5 sts between the dec like this even it is not a row with dec, the remaining sts continue in pattern).

KNITTING TIP:
If your knitting tension is too tight in the height the raglan will be too short and the armhole too small. You may compensate for this by working 2 extra rows without dec with regular intervals between the dec.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = work 4th and 5th st tog and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 5, 15, 25, 35 and 45 cm.
Size M: 5, 13, 21, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
Size L: 5, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 49 cm.
Size XL: 5, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 49 cm.
Size XXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 51 cm.
Size XXXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45 and 54 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 177-191-201-223-241-263 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska. K 3 rows and work next row from RS as follows: 10 GARTER STS – see above, PATTERN – see above – on the next 29-33-35-41-45-51 sts, 20 garter sts, pattern on the next 59-65-71-81-91-101 sts, 20 garter sts, pattern on the next 29-33-35-41-45-51 sts, finish with 10 garter sts. Work the 10 sts each side in garter st throughout. Continue in pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm make BUTTONHOLES – see above – on right front band. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 2 markers in piece, 49-53-55-61-65-71 sts in from each side (Back piece = 79-85-91-101-111-121 sts). When piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers by K2 tog from RS. Repeat the dec on every 4-4-4.5-4.5-5-5 cm a total of 5 times = 157-171-181-203-221-243 sts. When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm - adjust so that next row is from WS – cast off 10 sts mid under sleeve each side (5 sts each side of marker) = 137-151-161-183-201-223 sts. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 115-117-121-125-127-131 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 5 mm. K 3 rows and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 1 garter st, pattern until 1 st remain, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 13-13-12-12-11-11 cm cast off 6 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, beg from RS = 103-105-109-113-115-119 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 343-361-379-409-431-461 sts. Insert a marker in first and last st on back piece and in last st on each front piece (towards the sleeves) = 4 markers. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in Pattern, AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN as follows – See DECREASING TIP and KNITTING TIP:
ON BODY PIECE (make all dec from RS): Dec on every 6th row a total of 8-5-2-0-0-0 times, on every 4th row 3-8-13-14-11-10 times and on every other row 0-0-0-4-11-15 times,
ON SLEEVE (make dec from RS and from WS): Dec on every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) a total of 17-18-18-19-19-20 times, then on every row a total of 22-22-24-25-26-27 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-50-50-52-54 cm slip 10-12-12-12-12-15 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline at beg of row each side as follows: 2 sts 5 times and 1 st 2-2-2-5-5-5 times. After all dec are complete there are 6 sts left on each front piece, 37-39-41-45-47-51 sts left on back piece and 25 sts left on each sleeve = a total of 99-101-103-107-109-113 sts.
Cut the thread.
Work next row from RS and mid front as follows: K all sts, AT THE SAME TIME pick up 14-14-14-18-18-18 sts on each neckline and slip sts on stitch holders back on needle = 147-153-155-167-169-179 sts (includes sts on stitch holders). On next row from WS K all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 41-43-41-49-47-53 sts evenly = 106-110-114-118-122-126 sts. K 3 rows on all sts.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 31-33-35-37-39-41 sts evenly (do not inc on front bands) = 137-143-149-155-161-167 sts. Work next row as follows - from RS: 10 garter sts, rib K3/P3 until 13 sts remain, finish with K3 and 10 garter sts. Continue in rib and garter st.
Cast off with K over K and P over P when neckline measures 14-14-14-15-15-15 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew the opening under sleeves. Sew buttons on left front piece.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Chris wrote:

Hello again, thanks for your reply the 1st time, it helped. I'm at the same position, now I'm have put the body and sleeves on cable. 39 &39 front, 103 sleeves, 59 back. I continue to get either 2 purls or to 2 knit together so I can't knit in pattern. If I adjust left or right then I throw off my count per piece. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Chris

09.07.2022 - 06:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, you need to work the decreases as you continue working the pattern. Usually, where there are decreases, there will be some misalignments of the pattern. Work whatever should go there, even if the pattern is not fully adjusted and there are 2 knitted stitches together. The raglan line should be kept as p1,k3, p1. The stitches before or after them may have gotten misadjusted. Happy knitting!

09.07.2022 - 19:19

country flag Chris wrote:

Hello, I'm working on Arianna X-356. Since there isn't a diagram or row count, will you explain the decs. on the BODY PC.? Every 6th row =8x's and every 4th row =3x's. And the Sleeve decs. every other row. Which row does that start with. Does the body and sleeve get decs on the same rows? Thank you, very nice sweater, Chris

01.07.2022 - 05:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, the raglan decreases are done on a different rythm on body and on sleeves, this means you will sometimes decrease 8 sts ( = body + sleeves) or only 4 sleeves (eg when decreasing on every other row on sleeves but on every 6th row on body). Happy knitting!

01.07.2022 - 08:06

country flag Céline wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterais réaliser ce modèle mais avec des manches moins larges. Y a-t-il quelque part sur le site des explications pour adapter le modèle en ce sens ? Merci à vous.

11.11.2020 - 11:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, vous trouverez ici nos modèles de vestes raglan pour femme - avec le même échantillon - dont vous pourrez vous inspirer. Bon tricot!

11.11.2020 - 14:44

country flag Carol Blignaut wrote:

Please can someone help me understand this pattern translation - what is 1 garter stitch? Row 1 (from RS): * K1, 1 garter st *, repeat from *-*. Row 2 (from WS): * 1 garter st, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Repeat row 1 and 2 (= garter st over garter st and K over K)

29.07.2020 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Blignaut, 1 stitch in garter stitch will be worked both K from RS and from WS while the other stitch will be K from RS and P from WS. This means you will work 1 st in stocking st, 1 st in garter st = K1, K1 from RS and work 1 stitch in garter st, 1 st in stocking st = K1, P1 from WS . Happy knitting!

30.07.2020 - 08:58

country flag Jennifer Leigh Scott wrote:

Please can you explain the pattern in Drops 122-31? What is K1, Garter 1? Garter 1, P1 ? Is that k1, p1? Surely it would be k2? I need the 2 row repeat explained to me please as this is a beautiful top. Kind regards Jenny Scott South Africa i.e. Row 1 (from RS): * K1, 1 garter st *, repeat from *-*. Row 2 (from WS): * 1 garter st, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Repeat row 1 and 2 (= garter st over garter st and K over K)

29.07.2020 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Leigh Scott, 1 garter stitch will be knitted both from RS and from WS while the K stitch will be K from RS and P from WS, this mean you will work (1 st in stocking st, 1 stitch in garter stitch = K1, K1) and repeat this from RS (= from WS work 1 stitch in garter st, 1 st in stocking st = K1, P1). Happy knitting!

30.07.2020 - 08:57

country flag Stefania wrote:

Quindi anche le maglie delle coste a punto legaccio? Sono una "tricoteuse" del weekend e ho visto stamani la vostra risposta: grazie!

06.12.2019 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Stefania. Sì, deve trasferire anche le maglie lavorate a coste a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

07.12.2019 - 06:41

country flag Stefania wrote:

Il calore dell'eleganza, Bellissimo!

01.12.2019 - 10:37

country flag Stefania wrote:

Buongiorno, sono una principiante e questo bel modello ha messo alla prova la mia tenacia. Non capisco quali sono le 12 maglie verso il centro davanti che devo trasferire su un fermamaglie per il collo. Potete aiutarmi? Grazie

01.12.2019 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Stefania. Sono le prime 12 e le ultime 12 maglie della riga. Sono le maglie più vicino allo scollo e verranno riprese in seguito per lavorare il collo a coste. Buon lavoro!

01.12.2019 - 12:12

country flag Anita wrote:

Hej, både min mor og jeg strikker meget, men vi har virkelig kæmpet med den raglan. På fotoet ligger der en fin række med 2 retmasker. Ligemeget hvor grundigt, vi følger opskriften, kommer der 4 i vores række. Altså meget bred og meget grim - for at sige det pænt. Desuden kommer maskeantallet heller ikke til at passe. En af min mors meget strikkekyndige veninder har nu lige læst opskriften igennem, og hun påstår, at der er en fejl. Kan I også se det? Mvh Anita

10.02.2018 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, I hver raglanovergang har du 3 ret (mærketråden sidder i den midterste) og 1 vrang på hver side af de 3 ret (ialt 5 masker). Du tager ind ved at strikke de 2 masker før og efter vrangmasken sammen. De to masker før strikker du ret sammen og de to masker efter strikker du sammen ved at tage 1 m løst af p som om den skulle strikkes ret, 1 ret, løft den løse maske over. God fornøjelse!

19.02.2018 - 14:36

country flag Alessia Sapiente wrote:

Scusate non riesco a capire questo passaggio: SPRONE: Inserire un segnapunti nella 1° e ultima m sul dietro e nell’ultima m di ogni davanti (verso le maniche) = 4 segnapunti Potete aiutarmi? Grazie

03.02.2018 - 07:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Alessia. Quando riporta tutte le maglie sugli stessi ferri circolari, inserisce un segnapunti nelle quattro maglie che precedono/seguono le maniche: quindi nella prima maglia e nell'ultima maglia del dietro, e per i davanti, nella maglia del davanti subito prima / subito dopo le maglie della corrispondente manica. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2018 - 09:05