DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale

Heart's Desire

Knitted DROPS blanket in ”Delight” and ”Alpaca” with squares in different textured patterns.

DROPS 124-20
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-036
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Measure: approx 106 x 132 cm / 41 3/4" x 52".

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
500 g color no 02, plum/beige/heather mix
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250 g color no 3800, old pink
150 g color no 0618m eco light beige
150 g color no 6736m, navy/purple mix

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 6 mm / US 10 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 24 rows in pattern with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Each square: width approx 23 cm / 9'' x length 24 cm / 9½''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
NEW BALL OF YARN TIP:
To make the color transitions in Delight neat when starting a new ball of yarn it is important to use a ball beg with the same shade as finished the previous ball.

COLORS OF SQUARES:
A = Delight + navy/purple mix Alpaca
B = Delight + light beige Alpaca
C = Delight + old pink Alpaca
See Fig 1 for pattern and color changes.

PATTERN:
Squares worked in 4 different patterns – see below.

M.1 WORKED AS FOLLOWS:
K 5 rows on all sts (first row = RS). Work next row as follows (from WS): K3, P3, K2, P4, K2, P3, K3, P3, K2, P4, K2, P3 and K3. On next row inc 16 sts evenly as follows: * K3, K2 in each of the next 3 sts, K2, K2 in next st, K2, K2 in next st, K2, K2 in each of the next 3 sts *, repeat from *-* one more time, finish with K3 = 53 sts. Continue in M.1 with 3 garter sts each side (first row = WS). On first row after M.1 dec 16 sts evenly as follows: * K3, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* one more time, finish with K3 = 37 sts. K 3 rows.

M.2, M.3 and M.4 WORKED AS FOLLOWS:
K 4 rows on all sts. Continue in M.2, M.3 or M.4 with 3 garter sts each side (first row = RS). After the pattern diagram K 4 rows on all sts.

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BLANKET:
Worked back and forth on needle in 4 lengths, sewn tog afterwards. Each length comprises 5 squares, the squares are worked in 4 different patterns and with 3 different color combinations – see pattern and colors above. See NEW BALL OF YARN TIP!

LENGTH 1:
Cast on 37 sts with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand navy/purple mix Alpaca. Work M.1, see explanation above. Change the Alpaca strand to light beige, work M.2 (see explanation above). Change the Alpaca strand to old pink, work M.3 (see explanation above). Change the Alpaca strand to navy/purple mix, work M.4 (see explanation above). Change the Alpaca strand to light beige, work M.1 (see explanation above). Slip sts on a stitch holder and put piece aside.

LENGTH 2:
Like length 1, but with pattern and color changes as shown in Fig.1 – i.e. beg with old pink Alpaca and M.2.

LENGTH 3:
Like Length 1, but with pattern and color changes as shown in Fig.1 – i.e. beg with light beige Alpaca and M.3.

LENGTH 4:
Like Length 1, but with pattern and color changes as shown in Fig.1 – i.e. beg with navy/purple mix Alpaca and M.4.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the lengths tog edge to edge with Delight and 1 st in each garter st.

FINISHING BORDER:
Work a border along each side of the blanket and sew the borders tog in corners. All borders worked in garter st back and forth on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Delight + old pink Alpaca.
SHORT SIDE, TOP:
Slip all sts from stitch holders at the top for each length on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 = 148 sts. Work garter st back and forth on needle – beg from WS - AT THE SAME TIME on Row 2 inc 1 st each side towards corner by making 1 YO on the inside of first/last st – on next row K YO into back of loop K to avoid a hole. Repeat the inc on every other row until there are 20 rows garter st, bind off LOOSELY from RS.
SHORT SIDE, BOTTOM:
Pick up (from RS) 1 st in each st from cast on row on all lengths = 148 sts. Now continue as described for short side top.
LONG SIDE:
Pick up (from RS) 1 st in every garter ridge along one of the long sides = 150 sts. K 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME inc 30 sts evenly by making 1 YO after every 5th st – on return row work K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Now continue as described for the short sides.
Repeat along the other long side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew all corners edge to edge with 1 st in each garter st.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.05.2013
LONG SIDE:
Pick up (from RS) 1 st in every garter ridge along one of the long sides = 150 sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS.
symbols = P from RS, K from WS.
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = K2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (139)

country flag Christine Strobel wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht, ob man nun nur nach den Mustersätzen arbeiten muss, oder doch nach der geschriebenen Anleitung , das passt doch gar nicht mit den Charts zusammen ?

01.01.2016 - 16:58

DROPS Design answered:

Sie stricken nach der geschriebenen Anleitung, dort wird dann genannt, an welcher Stelle Sie die Diagramme stricken.

02.01.2016 - 19:47

country flag Marleen wrote:

Bedankt voor het antwoord, ik was aan de goede kant van het werk begonnen i.p.v. aan de verkeerde. moet je per patroon een proeflapje breien voor de stekenverhouding en evt. met verschillende naalddiktes breien?

21.12.2015 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marleen. Ja, het beste is om altijd eerst een proeflapje te maken om je stekenverhouding te controleren. Een verkeerde stekenverhouding kan verkeerde afmetingen veroorzaken, maar ook bijvoorbeeld dat het werk gaat lubberen/groeien na wassen.

22.12.2015 - 16:38

country flag Marleen Bij De Vaate wrote:

Bij patroon M1 staat dat ik de steken voor het kabeltje recht moet breien( 3 steken op kabelnaald zetten, 3 steken recht breien, 3 steken recht breien van de kabelnaald). ik krijg dan ribbelsteekjes in het kabeltje. moet dit niet zijn: de steken averecht breien? dan komt het nl. wel goed!

21.12.2015 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marleen. Ja, zo moet je ook de steken breien als je de beschrijving voor de steken leest bij het telpatroon: r aan de goede kant, averecht aan de verkeerde kant (leeg vierkantje). Lees ook hier hoe je onze telpatronen moet lezen

21.12.2015 - 13:17

country flag Laila wrote:

Hvor mange masker skal det legges opp? Skal det være riller på endene?

31.08.2015 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Laila: Legg opp 37 m med 1 tråd Delight + 1 tråd blålillamix Alpaca... Les oppskriften igennem, du kan laese her hvordan du skal strikke hver remse.

01.09.2015 - 16:45

country flag Birgitte wrote:

Hei. Godt i gang med teppet men har problemer med M4.har kommer til fjerde rad med hullmønster og får det ikke til å gå opp. Skal det være syv masker rettstrikk i mellom hullmønsterene? Da ender mønsteret utenfor møsterabbatten?

16.07.2015 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, Du starter i diagrammets nederste højre hjørne og strikker opad ligesom du strikker maskerne. Mønsteret starter på 3.p i højre side af diagrammet med 3 ret, 2 ret sammen 1 omslag, 1 ret, 1 omslag, løft 1 m løst af p som om den skulle strikkes r, 1 r, løft den løse m over, 5 ret osv... God fornøjelse!

29.07.2015 - 16:02

country flag Monica wrote:

Så glad i dette teppe. Kjekt å strikke 😊 Vurderer nå å begynne på det fjerde teppe, til min mor denne gangen. Har strikket et til meg selv og til mine døtre. De brukes daglig 😊 av oss alle

08.05.2015 - 23:28

Dee wrote:

Can you guide me to where I can find the same textured patterns used here but written out for crochet. I would like to make this blanket but only know crochet. Thank you.

04.05.2015 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dee, you can get help from our videos teaching how to knit - or request help from your DROPS store or any crochet/knitting forum. Happy knitting!

18.05.2015 - 10:43

Dee wrote:

Is there a crochet version of this blanket?

02.05.2015 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dee, there is no crochet version of this pattern, click here to find all our crochet pattern for blanket. Happy crocheting!

04.05.2015 - 08:41

Dee wrote:

Is there a crochet version for this blanket? Its beautiful!

02.05.2015 - 17:22

country flag Hilde C. S. Nordby wrote:

Flott teppe. Snart ferdig. Strikker første kortside. Jeg begynte på Vangen og har nå strikket 19 omg. og skal nå begynne på den 20 omg. som begynner på Retten(10 riller). Når jeg skal felle av blir det på vrangen. I oppskriften står det at avfelling skal begynne på retten. Hva er riktig å gjøre her? Mvh Hilde C.S. Nordby

08.03.2015 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hilde, Om du må felle av fra vrangen kan du strikke en pind mere eller mindre. Eller så feller du fra vrangen, det kan ikke betyde noget. God fornøjelse!

21.05.2015 - 11:16