DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Celtic Winter

DROPS waistcoat in ”Alaska” with raglan and cables on yoke. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS 121-27
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-495
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-98-104-114-126-138 cm / 34 5/8"-38½"-41"-45"-49½"-54 1/4"
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color no 12, navy blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. In M.1, approx 25 rows = 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – for borders.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS, no 537: 7 pcs.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 – pattern in diagram is seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 12, 19, 26, 34, 41, 49, 56 cm / 4¾",7½",10¼",13 3/8",16 1/8",19¼",22".
SIZE M: 12, 20, 28, 36, 43, 51, 58 cm / 4¾",8",11",14¼",17",20",22¾".
SIZE L: 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 cm / 4¾",8",11",14¼",17¼",20½",23 5/8".
SIZE XL: 12, 21, 29, 37, 45, 54, 62 cm / 4¾",8¼",11 3/8",14½",17¾",21¼",24 3/8".
SIZE XXL: 12, 21, 30, 39, 47, 56, 64 cm / 4¾",8¼",11¾",15¼",18½",22",25¼".
SIZE XXXL: 12, 21, 30, 39, 48, 57, 66 cm /
4¾",8¼",11¾",15¼",19",22½",26".
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 240-264-282-306-336-366 sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Alaska. Continue as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in GARTER ST – see above, K2, * P4/ K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 front band sts in garter st.
When rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' work (make sure next row is from RS) change to needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, K2, * K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 5 front band sts in garter st = 164-180-192-208-228-248. Continue in reverse stockinette st and front bands in garter st as before. Insert a marker 43-47-50-54-59-64 sts in from each side (= 78-86-92-100-110-120 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾'' dec 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 5 times = 144-160-172-188-208-228 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' make BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above! When piece measures 22-22-23-23-24-24 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9½"-9½" inc 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the inc on every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 4 times = 160-176-188-204-224-244 sts. When piece measures 37-39-40-42-43-44 cm / 14½"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16½"-17"-17 1/4" bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts each side for armhole on next row from RS (= 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts each side of marker) = 148-164-172-188-204-224 sts left on needle. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 58-61-70-73-78-79 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 3 rows and work next row as follows: bind off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts, K sts on row until 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts remain, bind off theses sts, cut the thread = 52-55-62-65-68-69 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sts from sleeve edges on the same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 as body piece where bind off for armholes = 252-274-296-318-340-362 sts.
K 1 row from WS and work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rows in reverse stockinette st with front bands in garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, P10, * inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts and K these 4 sts, P20 *, repeat from *-* a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times, inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts and K these 4 sts, P10, and 5 front band sts in garter st = 274-298-322-346-370-394 sts. Now continue in M.1 with front bands in garter st as before (first row = WS). On row 4 in M.1 inc 2 sts in each repeat as per the diagram = 296-322-348-374-400-426 sts. Now complete M.1. After M.1 there are 98-106-114-122-130-138 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 16-18-22-24-30-30 sts evenly (do not dec on front bands) = 82-88-92-98-100-108 sts. K 1 row. Insert a marker mid back. Continue in garter st on all sts, at the same time work shortened rows mid back as follows (first row = RS): K 7 sts past marker mid back, turn, K 7 sts past marker on the other side, turn, K 14 sts past marker, turn, K 14 sts past marker on the other side, turn, and continue like this with 7 more sts before each turn until you have work a total of 35-35-35-42-42-42 sts each side of marker. Turn, K all sts on row and then work 3 rows on all sts. Bind off with K sts from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve edges tog, edge to edge and sew openings under sleeves. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.10.2010
Sleeve edge: ....K 3 rows and work next row as follows: bind off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts, K sts on row until 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts remain, bind off these sts, cut the thread = 52-55-62-65-68-69 sts remain on needle.
Updated online: 12.10.2016
YOKE: ...Now complete M.1. After M.1 there are 98-106-114-122-130-138 sts on needle. Work 1 row from WS. Change to circular needle size 4 mm...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS.
symbols = P from RS, K from WS.
symbols = P2 in this st.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle.
symbols = P2 tog.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Celtic Winter

bahndammampfer, Germany

Celtic Winter

Alline, United Kingdom

Celtic Winter

Elinor, United Kingdom

Celtic Winter

Svetlana Cox, United States

Cable Yoke Cardigan

Tracy, Hong Kong

Runestone

Irina, United States

Cable Yoke Cardigan

Tracy, China

Celtic Winter

1condor1, Belarus

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 121-27

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (78)

Arcadia wrote:

I'm not sure if I've understood correctly. I have just finished the rib. The next row, on the RS (where the rib looks like KK PPPP KK) is KNIT (with decreases - K2, * K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 *) Now it's asking for reverse stocking, which means the RS is all PURL - but I just did a row of KNIT. Is it correct that on the RS there's one row of KNIT before PURLing the rest of the garment? Thank you :)

01.05.2018 - 03:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Arcadia, Knit the sts as described on first row after rib (= from RS) then continue with reversed stocking st (= P from RS and K from WS). Happy knitting!

02.05.2018 - 09:45

country flag Marti Hand wrote:

Hello...under the YOKE section \'...P10, *inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts and K these 4 sts,...\r\nto knit these 4 sts -> do I put the 4 sts back on the left needle to knit or is there another method for knitting these 4 sts. Please clarify. Thank you!

18.04.2018 - 02:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hand, you will knit 2 sts in the next 2 sts, ie knit into front and back loop each of these next 2 sts to inc 2 sts - see also video below. Happy knitting!

18.04.2018 - 09:45

country flag Bärbel wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich habe eben die Anleitung ausgedruckt. Leider ist das Diagramm und die Zeichnung mit den Maßen nicht dabei, auch nicht in der Druckvorschau. Da werden auch nur 2 Seiten angezeigt. Wie könnt Ihr mir helfen? LG, Bärbel

10.03.2018 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bärbel, prüfen Sie die Druckeinstellungen, damit alle Seiten gedrückt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.03.2018 - 08:35

country flag Marti Hand wrote:

I have a question about the number of stitches for the size Small. My test sample came out correct -> 17x22 stitches = 4"x4" in Alaska. The number of cast on stitches called for = 240 stitches =56" in circumference...is the number of CO stitches correct for a size small? My hip measurement is 35 inches, and feel the above 56" is much too big to fit my frame. Either I'm super small or Norwegians are super big! If this is the case, can you please provide knitting instructions for XS?

16.11.2017 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hand, you first work in rib, so that you need more sts for the correct width, then you will decrease to 164 sts in size S after ribbing. If your tension is fine, you will the finished measurements as in chart at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

16.11.2017 - 13:28

country flag Anja wrote:

Hey ihr Lieben! Ist das Zufall oder habt Ihr meinen Namen, den ich dieser Jacke meinem Projekt dazu in der großen Strickcommunity gegeben hab, verwendet? Ist mir nur grad so aufgefallen. Vorher hatte die Jacke nämlich nur diese Nummer und ich hab mein Projekt "Keltischer Wintertraum" genannt... LG Anja

25.10.2017 - 09:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, die Namen der Modellen sind aus der Empfehlungen und Vorschläge der Website Besucher ausgewählt; es ist dann nur Zufall.

25.10.2017 - 12:22

country flag Barbara wrote:

I only can print pages one and two, how can I chanced this?

27.08.2017 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, we successfully could print this pattern, maybe you should check the settings on your printer? Happy knitting!

29.08.2017 - 11:36

Sally Ann Gray wrote:

I adore this pattern but wondered if there is a pattern for the cardigan too please? It is just gorgeous and I would like to make both.

27.07.2017 - 01:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally Ann, the pattern you refer to is actually a cardigan. If you meant if there is a pullover version, there is unfortunately not. However there is lots of patterns in similar styles, and you can also convert this pattern by knitting it in the round and omitting the button band. Happy knitting!

27.07.2017 - 09:08

Kerri wrote:

The pattern says knit one row from RS after completing M1. Yet M1 last row would be from RS so the next row would be WS. ???? Solution please. Thanks, Kerri

05.10.2016 - 12:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kerri, a correction will be made, after M.1 work 1 row from WS, then change to circular needle size 4 mm. Happy knitting!

05.10.2016 - 14:03

country flag Camilla Sundström wrote:

Jag ska göra strl M, och ska lägga upp 264 maskor. Stämmer detta verkligen? Om 17m = 10 cm. Den ska vara 100cm i vidd längst ner och det blir ju i så fall 170 maskor vilket känns långt från 264. Så tänker jag galet eller är det felskrivet? Tack på förhand // Camilla

22.08.2016 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla. Mönstret er korrekt. Du starter med at strikke rib som traekker sig meget mere sammen en glatstrik (som strikkefastheden er i). Naar du er faerdig med ribben bytter du til p 5 og tager ind til 180 m. Fra her strikker du videre i glatstrik og med 180 m sidder du paa den rette maal.

24.08.2016 - 12:06

country flag Antje Schupp wrote:

Das ist so eine süße Jacke! passt maschenproben-mäßig auf meine Lieblingswolle DropsforYou4, also...

02.12.2015 - 19:54